Hisense Refrigerator Not Cooling: Fixes and Parts

Quick Answer

If your Hisense isn't cooling, the most common culprit is a thick layer of dust on the condenser coils or a failed evaporator fan motor. Start by vacuuming the coils underneath or behind the unit to ensure the heat can actually escape the system.

Dealing with a warm fridge is a race against the clock for your food. In fifteen years of doing this, Hisense units are generally pretty solid, but they're really sensitive to airflow blockages and power surges that can pop the compressor start relay. Catch these symptoms early and you're usually looking at a cheap part swap instead of shopping for a whole new fridge.

HisenseRefrigeratorSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate88% DIY Success

Time to Fix

30–120 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$9 – $85

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Digital multimeter with ohms setting

Hisense Refrigerator Not Cooling: Fixes and Parts

OK so diagnosing a cooling issue is all about following the cold air. Freezer's fine but the fridge is warm? That's almost always an airflow problem. Both sections warm? Now we're looking at the compressor or the sealed system. Good news is most of the Hisense replacement parts you'd need are pretty affordable, and a lot of these repairs you can knock out yourself in an afternoon without calling anyone.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Dirty condenser coils35%

Evaporator fan motor failure25%

Start relay/capacitor failure20%

Defrost system fault (heater/timer)15%

Main control board malfunction5%

Symptoms You May Notice

Fresh food section is sitting at 50+ degrees, but you reach into the freezer and everything's still frozen solid.
Rhythmic clicking from the back every 2-3 minutes like clockwork. That's the thermal overload cycling because the compressor keeps trying and failing to start.
Compressor at the back is hot and humming but the fridge still isn't getting cold.
Pull the back panel off the freezer and the coils are completely buried in a solid block of ice, sometimes 2-3 inches thick.
Fan making a loud grinding or squealing noise, or complete silence when the freezer door's closed and the fridge is nowhere near temperature.

Can you reset a Hisense refrigerator to clear the NOT-COOLING code?

Unplug the fridge from the wall, not just turn it off, actually pull the cord out. Wait at least 10 minutes, I usually say 15 to be safe. This lets the capacitors on the control board fully discharge and clears any software glitches. Plug it back in and you'll hear a relay click as it starts up. Give it a full 24 hours before you decide whether the reset actually fixed anything.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverDigital multimeter with ohms settingVacuum cleaner with crevice tool attachmentAppliance coil cleaning brush1/4 inch nut driverHair dryer for manual defrost, use low heat onlyFlashlight or headlamp

Service / Diagnostic Mode

Press and hold the 'Energy Saving' and 'Alarm' buttons simultaneously for 3 to 5 seconds to enter the self-test mode. The display will flash any stored error codes.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your refrigerator is showing:

E0 Error →E4 Error →

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range2000–15000 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Evaporator Fan Motor1103252 · $45–$85	1103252	$45 – $85
Compressor Start RelayQP2-4.7 · $12–$28	QP2-4.7	$12 – $28
Temperature Sensor (Thermistor)1101344 · $9–$22	1101344	$9 – $22

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Hisense freezer cold but the fridge is warm?

This is almost always an airflow problem. Either the evaporator fan in the freezer has stopped spinning, or the vents connecting the two sections are blocked with ice or food jammed right up against them. Pull your freezer back panel off and check those coils. If they're buried in ice, that's your answer right there. The defrost system quit and now cold air can't move anywhere. Get that ice cleared out first and see if it comes back before you start ordering parts.

How often should I clean my Hisense refrigerator coils?

Every six months at minimum. If you've got a dog or cat that sheds, bump that up to every three months. I'm not kidding about this one. Dirty coils make the compressor work way harder than it's designed to, and I've seen compressors fail at four years old in pet households where the coils hadn't been touched since the fridge came out of the box. Five minutes with a vacuum every few months could easily add years to the compressor's life. It's the single best maintenance thing you can do for any refrigerator.

My fridge is making a clicking sound every few minutes. What is that?

That clicking is the thermal overload protector on the compressor. It means the compressor tried to start, couldn't, got hot, and shut itself off to prevent damage. Then it cools down and tries again. The start relay is the cheap fix to try first, usually $15-25. Pull it off and shake it. If it rattles, replace it. If a new relay doesn't fix it, the compressor itself might be seized, which is a much bigger deal and honestly might not be worth fixing on a unit that's already got some years on it.

Can I use universal parts on my Hisense refrigerator?

For simple stuff like start relays and basic thermistors, universal parts often work just fine. But for evaporator fan motors and main control boards, stick with genuine Hisense parts. The connectors are brand-specific and the voltage requirements need to match exactly. I've seen people fry a brand new control board by installing a 'close enough' universal part. Not worth the $100+ gamble when the OEM part isn't that much more expensive anyway.

How do I know if it's the relay or the actual compressor that's dead?

Pull the relay off the compressor and shake it next to your ear. Rattles? Replace it, it's a $20 fix. If you install a new relay and the fridge still won't cool, put your hand on the compressor while it's trying to start. If it hums and gets warm but there's no cooling happening anywhere, you've probably lost the refrigerant charge in the sealed system. That requires a certified tech with recovery equipment and you're looking at $400-600 or more in repairs. At that point on an older unit, honestly a new fridge starts making a lot more financial sense.

Related Hisense Refrigerator Error Codes

Code: E0Hisense E0 Error: Ambient Sensor Fault Code: E4Hisense E4 Error: Defrost Sensor Fault

Models Known to Experience NOT-COOLING Errors

This repair applies to most Hisense refrigerators with this error code. Common model numbers include:

HRF266N6CSE, HRF254N6TSE, HRB171N6ASE, HRF208N6BSE, HRF210N6BSE, RF694N4ISE, HRF15N3AGS, HBM17WBSA

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026