Whirlpool Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Whirlpool error codes.

337 error codes across 7 appliance types

Dishwasher

Code	Meaning	Severity
4-3	The control board ran the heating element during a wash cycle, then checked the thermistor to see if water temp actually climbed. It didn't. Either the element isn't generating heat, the thermistor can't measure it correctly, or the board's relay never fired in the first place. moderate	moderate
7-1	The control board expected to see water temperature climbing during the wash cycle and it didn't. So it tripped a heating fault and locked everything out. Could be the element itself is dead, could be a bad connection, could be the safety thermostat cut power to the heater before the water got hot enough. moderate	moderate
7-1	The control board fires the heater relay and then watches the thermistor for a temperature rise. If it doesn't see that rise within a set window, it kills the cycle and logs 7-1. Also shows as F7 E1 on some displays. The machine basically gave up waiting for heat that never came. moderate	moderate
7-1	The 7-1 code, also called F7 E1 on some displays, means the control board didn't see the water temperature rise during the heated wash. The thermistor's reporting temps and the board's saying 'something's wrong with this circuit.' Heating element, thermostat, wiring, or the relay on the board itself. high	high
BEEPING	The control board is sending you an audio signal. Could be a normal end-of-cycle chime, a door-open warning, or an error code trying to get your attention. The board uses different beep counts and intervals to communicate different states to whoever's in the kitchen. low	low
CLEAN-BLINK	The Clean light flashes after a cycle when the sanitize or cycle completion condition wasn't properly met, or the cycle got interrupted. Basically the dishwasher is saying it didn't finish what it started. Could be a temp issue, a door opening at the wrong time, or a sensor flagging something wrong. low	low
CLEANING	Your dishwasher's multi-stage filter sits at the bottom of the tub and catches food particles before they can reach the drain pump. The cylindrical upper filter traps the big stuff, and the flat lower mesh catches fine particles. When both get clogged, water can't drain properly and wash performance tanks fast. low	low
CLEANING	The dishwasher couldn't complete a full cycle because the control board detected a problem with water heating or circulation. It latches that fault and flashes the clean light to tell you something went wrong before the cycle wrapped up. low	low
CLEANING	Routine maintenance to clear trapped food particles, grease, and mineral scale from the dishwasher's filtration system. The filter catches everything your dishes rinse off so it doesn't recirculate onto clean dishes or jam up the pump. low	low
CONTROL-LOCK	Control Lock is a firmware feature baked into the control board. When it's active, the board ignores every button input except Power. Think of it like locking a phone screen. The hardware is completely fine. It's just the software telling the panel to stop accepting commands until you unlock it. low	low
DIAG-MODE	It's a hidden self-test sequence built into the control board. When you enter it, the board runs every major component through its paces, fills the tub, fires the heater, spins the wash motor, and drains it out. It also reads back any stored fault codes the machine logged but never bothered to show you during normal operation. low	low
DOOR-WONT-CLOSE	The dishwasher door will not latch closed - preventing any cycle from starting, caused by a misaligned latch strike, broken latch assembly, or overloaded bottom rack preventing door swing moderate	moderate
DRAIN-FILTER	The Quiet Partner I uses a two-part system: a coarse plastic strainer that catches the big stuff like seeds and broken glass, and a fine mesh filter underneath that traps smaller particles so they don't get recirculated back onto your dishes. When either one gets clogged or torn, you're basically washing your dishes in dirty water on every single cycle. moderate	moderate
E1 F1	A relay on the main control board is stuck open or closed, so a critical circuit can't be switched on or off. The board knows something's wrong because it's not getting expected feedback when it tries to energize the motor, heater, or pump. high	high
E1 F6	Water inlet fault, same fault as F6 E1 but displayed in reversed code order on certain model variants. The control board started the fill timer, water didn't reach the sensor in time, and the board threw the code and bailed on the cycle. moderate	moderate
E1 F9	The drain cycle didn't finish within the time the board allows. The pump ran, but the water level didn't drop fast enough for the pressure switch or flow sensor to confirm the tub was clear. So the board gave up and threw the code. moderate	moderate
E2 F2	Water inside the dishwasher didn't reach the minimum temperature the control board expects during the fill or wash phase. Could be cold supply water, a burned-out heating element, or a thermistor that's giving the board a completely wrong reading. moderate	moderate
E4	The NTC thermistor (water temperature sensor) is reporting a resistance value outside what the control board expects. Either the sensor element has failed open or shorted, or something in the wiring between the sensor and board is broken. moderate	moderate
F2 E1	F2 E1 means the main control board and the user interface console have lost communication. The brain of the dishwasher is powered up and working fine, but it can't get any signal from the buttons you're pressing on the door panel. high	high
F4 E3	The thermal fuse in the heater circuit has blown open. That means there's a physical break in the electrical path, the dishwasher can't run the heater or motor, and it won't start any cycle until that fuse is replaced and whatever caused the overheating is fixed. high	high
F7 E1	The heating element circuit has failed. Either the element itself burned out, the heater relay on the control board fried, or the thermistor's reporting no temperature rise because nothing's actually heating up in the first place. high	high
F8	The main control board sent a signal to the wash motor controller and got nothing back. Not a mechanical failure, not a seized pump, just a broken data line between the two boards. The motor might be perfectly fine, completely unaware there's even a problem. high	high
F8 E1	The F8 E1 error code indicates a slow drain condition. The dishwasher control board has detected that the water level is not dropping fast enough during the drain cycle or that the sump is failing to empty within the programmed time limit. moderate	moderate
F8 E4	The wash motor circuit failed. Either the motor didn't start, pulled too much current trying to start, or the motor control relay on the main board never fired the signal. Net result: no water circulation, cycle aborts. high	high
FA E4	The door switch is sending a bad signal to the motor control circuit while the motor's running. The dishwasher thinks the door popped open during a cycle, so it kills the motor as a safety response. Basically a false alarm triggered by a worn-out switch. moderate	moderate
FILTER-ASSEMBLY	The filtration system in this model consists of a coarse strainer and a fine mesh filter designed to capture food particles and prevent them from redepositing on dishes or damaging the drain pump. moderate	moderate
FILTER-ASSEMBLY	The filter system catches food particles during the wash cycle so they don't get pumped back onto your clean dishes or jam up the drain pump. It's actually two parts: a coarse outer filter that catches the big stuff, and a fine inner mesh that catches everything else. moderate	moderate
FILTER-SCREEN	The Quiet Partner 1's filtration system is a two-part setup: a coarse plastic basket catches the big stuff like bones and seeds, and a fine mesh screen underneath traps smaller particles so they don't get sprayed back onto your dishes during the wash cycle. moderate	moderate
FLASHING-LIGHTS	The flashing lights indicate that the main control board has entered a fault state. This is typically caused by a stuck button on the keypad, a failure in the water heating circuit, or a loss of communication between the user interface and the main logic board. moderate	moderate
H2O	The control board sent power to the inlet valve to start filling, but the float switch or pressure sensor never confirmed any water entered the tub. Either nothing came in at all, or the float switch is lying to the board and reporting a full tub when it's completely dry. moderate	moderate
HOW-TO-REMOVE	This guide walks you through the exact sequence to safely cut power, disconnect the plumbing, free the wiring, and slide your Whirlpool dishwasher out of the cabinet without wrecking your floor or countertop. low	low
HUB	Hub page covering all Whirlpool dishwasher error codes across both modern F/E format and older blink-code format models low	low
LEAKING	Your Whirlpool dishwasher is letting water escape somewhere it shouldn't during the fill, wash, or drain cycle. Water's either pushing past a dried-out seal, dripping from a cracked component, or overflowing because the tub filled too high. Whirlpool's design routes water through a lot of rubber and plastic connections, and any one of them can give out. moderate	moderate
LIGHTS-FLASH	Multiple control panel lights flashing in a pattern, used by older models without displays as the only diagnostic code system, or indicating a fault condition or communication failure on newer models. low	low
NOISE	Something's mechanically wrong inside the sump, pump, or spray system. Could be hard debris jammed in the chopper blade, worn motor bearings spinning metal on metal, or a spray arm that's lost clearance and hitting dishes. The machine doesn't throw a code for noise, it just keeps making it until something actually fails. moderate	moderate
NORMAL-BLINK	The Normal cycle indicator is flashing, which means the cycle was interrupted or the control board detected a fault mid-wash. On older Whirlpool models without a digital display, the blink pattern itself is the error code, so count how many times it blinks before the pause because that number actually tells you which component failed. low	low
NORMAL-LIGHT-FLASHING	The Normal light flashing means the dishwasher caught a cycle interruption, a door latch sensing error, or a stuck button on the user interface. It's a general fault signal, not a specific numeric code, so it's basically the machine saying something's off and it won't start until you sort it out. moderate	moderate
NOT-CLEANING	Dishes coming out dirty, with food residue, or with a film - caused by spray arm blockage, detergent issues, clogged filter, or inadequate water temperature low	low
NOT-DRAINING	The dishwasher ran through a wash cycle but the drain pump couldn't push water out through the hose into your sink drain or disposal. Water's sitting in the tub because something's physically blocking the flow or the pump motor can't run. It's either a mechanical blockage, a plumbing issue with the drain line, or an electrical failure in the pump itself. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRYING	Your Whirlpool dishwasher isn't reaching the heat and airflow conditions needed to evaporate moisture off dishes at the end of the cycle. Either the heating element isn't warming the final rinse water enough, the vent system isn't opening to let humid air escape, or the rinse aid that helps water sheet off dishes isn't getting dispensed properly. moderate	moderate
NOT-FILLING	The control board sends 120V to the inlet valve's solenoid coil at the start of each fill cycle. That electrical signal opens a diaphragm inside the valve and lets pressurized water into the tub. If the solenoid coil burns out, or the float switch is stuck telling the board the tub is already full, that valve stays shut and nothing gets in. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The heating element isn't bringing water up to temperature during the wash or dry cycle. Could be the element itself burned out, the thermistor feeding bad temp data to the board, or the control board's heater relay died. Machine runs fine otherwise, it just can't heat. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The upper or lower spray arms aren't rotating during the wash cycle. Water's in the tub and the pump's running, but there's not enough pressure or the arm's physically stuck, so nothing's getting hit with water and dishes come out dirty or covered in residue. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPRAYING	Water enters the tub but the spray arms are not rotating and spraying - caused by blocked spray arm holes, a failed wash motor, or the spray arms being physically obstructed moderate	moderate
NOT-STARTING	The dishwasher's control board isn't getting the signal it needs to kick off a cycle. Could be a bad door switch signal, missing power, a locked control panel, or a blown thermal fuse upstream of the board. Board itself is usually fine. low	low
PUMP-FILTER	The filtration system is a multi-stage barrier designed to trap food particles and prevent them from clogging the spray arms or damaging the drain pump. moderate	moderate
QUIET-PARTNER	The Whirlpool Quiet Partner series is a noise-rating system for their dishwasher lineup, running from Quiet Partner I through Quiet Partner V. It's not an error code, it's a product line identifier that tells you how quiet the machine is supposed to run at its design spec. low	low
RED-LIGHT	A red light on a Whirlpool dishwasher means one of four things: the CycleSignal floor projection is active (totally normal), the sanitize temp threshold wasn't hit, there's a stored fault code, or a door-ajar warning fired. Where the light is located tells you which problem you're actually dealing with. low	low
RESET	Soft reset, hard reset, and service mode reset procedures for all Whirlpool dishwasher models low	low
RESET-SEQUENCE	When this sequence fires, you're basically telling the processor to dump whatever fault it's holding in memory and run a fresh self-test. The board checks the fill valve, drain pump, and heating circuit, then recalibrates sensor baselines. If nothing's actually broken, it clears the code and you're good. low	low
SANITIZE-BLINK	The Sanitize indicator is flashing after the cycle finished, meaning the water didn't reach or hold the required 150°F for the NSF-required duration during the final rinse. The control board monitors temperature throughout and flags the failure so you know the bacteria-killing threshold wasn't confirmed. low	low
SELF-START	The dishwasher starts a cycle without being intentionally activated, caused by either a Delay Start timer counting down, a relay on the control board that's fused in the closed position, or a touchpad registering phantom button presses from moisture or wear. low	low
SMELL	Unpleasant odors from the dishwasher tub caused by food debris in the filter, biofilm in the sump, mold in the door gasket, or a drain that's not clearing fully after each cycle. low	low
SPRAY-ARM-ERR	The spray arms are plastic rotary nozzles that spin using water pressure from the pump. When nozzle holes clog, the arm can't rotate freely, or a mounting hub gets loose, water distribution drops off fast and dishes don't get clean. The arm literally has to spin to do its job. moderate	moderate
START-BLINK	The Start or Start/Pause button flashing means the cycle is paused and waiting on your input. Either the door's not fully latched, you haven't confirmed the cycle with a Start press, or a power event interrupted the wash and the unit needs a manual reset to continue. low	low
STOPS-MID-CYCLE	The dishwasher halts partway through wash, rinse, or dry. Sometimes you get a blinking light, sometimes it just goes quiet. The control board detected something it didn't like, whether that's an open door contact, a high water sensor, or a temperature issue, and put the whole cycle on hold. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOT	Comprehensive troubleshooting guide covering the most common Whirlpool dishwasher problems: error codes, no start, no water, no drain, no heat, and poor cleaning low	low
W10130653	The W10130653 is basically the electronic handshake between your door and your control board. Two tiny microswitches inside the plastic housing close when the latch catches the strike. Once both switches signal 'closed,' the board gives the green light to run. No signal, no cycle. moderate	moderate
WONT-DRAIN	Standing water stays in the tub at cycle end. Either the drain pump ran but couldn't move water because something's blocking the path, or the pump didn't run at all due to motor failure or a control issue. moderate	moderate
WONT-DRY	The dishwasher finishes its cycle but dishes come out wet because the heating element failed, the rinse aid dispenser is empty, or the Heated Dry option wasn't selected. Without heat and rinse aid working together, water beads on surfaces instead of sheeting off into the drain. low	low
WONT-START	The control board isn't getting the signal it needs to start a cycle. Could be the door latch switch isn't closing the circuit, the thermal fuse interrupted power to protect the machine, or the board itself just isn't getting juice. All three look the same from the outside: nothing happens when you press Start. moderate	moderate
WONT-TURN-ON	Basically the dishwasher gets zero power to the panel. No lights, no beeps, nothing at all. This happens when the internal safety loop is broken at the door latch microswitch, the thermal fuse is blown, or house power just isn't reaching the machine. The control board won't do a single thing until that loop is closed. high	high

Dryer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
AF	AF stands for Air Flow. The control board monitors exhaust temperature, and when hot air isn't escaping fast enough, it throws this code. Basically the sensor's saying heat inside the drum is building up instead of leaving through the vent like it's supposed to. moderate	moderate
CABRIO-DRYER-DIAG	Whirlpool Cabrio dryers use a rotating selector knob to enter diagnostic mode rather than button combinations. The specific knob rotation sequence activates the service test mode, which displays stored fault codes and allows component testing. low	low
DRUM-STUCK	The drum stopped rotating because either the mechanical drive system (belt, idler pulley, or rollers) can't transfer the motor's power to the drum, or an electrical safety component cut the motor circuit entirely. Could be a snapped belt flopping around at the bottom of the cabinet, or a blown fuse that killed power to the motor. high	high
DRYER-DIAG	Whirlpool dryers with digital control panels include a service mode that stores fault codes from previous cycles. These codes use an F/E format where F identifies the failed system and E identifies the specific fault, helping you pinpoint the issue before disassembly. low	low
E1	The thermistor is basically a resistor that changes resistance based on temperature. The control board reads that value to know how hot the drum is. When E1 fires, the board is getting either infinite resistance (open, meaning broken wire or failed element) or near-zero resistance (shorted element), and it can't use either reading to control heat safely. high	high
F01	The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault or has failed. The control board is the central computer that manages all dryer functions including cycle timing, heat control, and motor operation. high	high
F2 E3	The F2 E3 error code indicates a communication mismatch or a stuck key on the user interface. Essentially, the main control board is not receiving the correct digital signal from the front buttons or the interface itself. high	high
F22	The exhaust temperature has exceeded safe operating limits, causing the high-limit thermostat to trip. This is a thermal protection event triggered by either a restricted vent or a failed cycling thermostat allowing runaway heat. high	high
F3 E2	The control board sends a small voltage through the two metal sensor bars in the drum and measures the resistance as wet clothes make contact. F3 E2 fires when that circuit reads as completely open, no connection at all, for several seconds in a row. moderate	moderate
F3 E3	Your dryer has two metal sensor bars inside the drum. When wet clothes touch both bars, a tiny electrical signal passes through. That signal tells the control board how wet the load still is. F3 E3 fires when that signal is missing, too weak, or stuck, because of residue buildup, a broken wire, or a physically dead sensor assembly. moderate	moderate
F3-E2	The control board is trying to detect a tiny electrical current passing through your wet clothes between those two sensor strips. F3-E2 means that circuit is open, like a broken wire in a loop. Either nothing's conducting, the wiring's disconnected, or the signal isn't making it back to the board. moderate	moderate
F4 E4	The control board's monitoring exhaust airflow and it's detecting that hot air can't escape at a safe rate. Either the vent's physically blocked, the air path is too restricted, or the thermistor that reads exhaust temp is seeing numbers way outside the normal range. high	high
F70	The main control board and the user interface board have lost their communication signal. These two boards exchange data constantly during every cycle. When the signal drops or gets corrupted, whether from a loose connector, a failed board, or a voltage problem, the dryer throws F70 and locks up. high	high
F9 E2	The outlet thermistor sits right at the exhaust duct opening and monitors the heat of air leaving the drum. When it reads outside the expected range or goes completely open circuit, the control board throws F9 E2 and shuts things down to prevent overheating. It's a safety sensor, so when it stops talking to the board, the board panics. high	high
HUB	This is a hub page covering all Whirlpool WED-series dryer fault codes. The F number points to the system that failed, the E number narrows it down to the specific component. Together they tell you exactly what the control board thinks went wrong inside your machine. low	low
L2	The control board detects that the L2 leg of your 240V supply is missing or too low. Basically one half of your electrical circuit isn't showing up. The board shuts down heating to protect itself and throws this code to tell you exactly which leg is the problem. high	high
LINT-INDICATOR	The control board monitors internal exhaust temperature using a thermistor. When heat builds faster than normal, it assumes the lint path is restricted somewhere, either at the screen, the transition hose, or the wall duct, and fires the indicator to tell you airflow is compromised. low	low
NOISE	When your Whirlpool dryer makes noise, something in the mechanical drive system is worn or has debris in it. The drum rides on rollers, a belt wraps around it and connects to the motor through an idler pulley, and the blower wheel moves air through everything. Any of those parts wearing out creates a very specific sound you can actually diagnose just by listening. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The dryer's heating circuit lost continuity somewhere in the chain. Either the thermal fuse blew, the heating element burned out, the gas igniter failed, or one of the safety thermostats cut out. The drum still spins fine because the motor circuit is completely separate from the heat circuit, which is why this one's so confusing to people. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The drum needs a motor, belt, idler pulley, and rollers all working together to spin. When the belt snaps or the idler pulley seizes, the motor just spins freely with nothing connected to the drum. Everything runs, the drum just doesn't move. moderate	moderate
NOT-TUMBLING	The dryer's drive system has failed to rotate the drum. This can be caused by a broken belt, a lack of power to the motor, or a safety switch preventing operation. high	high
NOT-TURNING-OFF	The dryer's control system, either a mechanical timer motor or an electronic moisture sensing circuit, has lost its ability to recognize when the cycle is complete. The timer contacts may be welded shut, or the sensors can't read moisture in the drum anymore, so the machine just keeps running. moderate	moderate
PF	Power was interrupted while the dryer was running mid-cycle. PF is an informational notification, not a fault code. The dryer is telling you it lost power and the cycle was cut short. low	low
PROBLEMS	General diagnostic guide for the most common mechanical and electrical failures found in the Whirlpool Duet front-load dryer series. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	General mechanical and electrical troubleshooting for the Whirlpool Ultimate Care II series, focused on common wear items and age-related failures that show up after years of heavy daily use. moderate	moderate
RESET	A reset clears the electronic control board's memory and kicks it out of whatever stuck state it's in. The board holds sensor readings and cycle state in volatile memory. Cut the power, that memory drains, and the board boots fresh. It's basically the same reason turning your router off and back on actually works. low	low
SMELLS-BURNING	Something inside the dryer cabinet is generating heat it shouldn't be. Either the exhaust path is blocked and hot air is backing up and charring lint, or a mechanical component like a roller, belt, or idler pulley is wearing out and creating friction heat, or lint has actually accumulated near the heating element itself. moderate	moderate
TAKING-LONG	Your dryer's either not generating enough heat or not moving enough air to carry moisture out. When drying time doubles or triples, something in that heat-produce-and-vent loop has broken down. Could be restricted airflow, a weak heating source, or sensors lying to the control board about how dry the clothes actually are. moderate	moderate
TIMER-REPLACE	The timer is a small motor-driven cam switch that steps through positions as it counts down. When the internal plastic gears strip or the copper contact points burn out from years of arcing, it can't signal the dryer to advance. The drum might spin, but nothing else happens the way it's supposed to. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	Your dryer's getting the start command but something's blocking the drive circuit. Usually it's the thermal fuse cutting power to the motor to prevent a fire, or the door switch not confirming the door's latched. On Whirlpool's design specifically, the belt-break switch can also kill the start signal if the drive belt snaps. moderate	moderate

Microwave

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Code	Meaning	Severity
DOOR-ERROR	The 'Open/Close Door' or 'Door' error on Whirlpool microwaves means the door interlock switches are not registering the door as properly closed. Microwaves have 3 door interlock switches as a safety system - all 3 must confirm the door is closed before the magnetron will energize. moderate	moderate
F1 E4	F1 E4 means the control board caught the power relay stuck closed when it should've opened. Basically the switch that turns the magnetron on and off can't turn off anymore. That's a safety shutdown, and it's serious. Don't try to bypass it. high	high
F1 E6	The relay is basically the on/off switch for the magnetron, the thing that actually generates the microwaves. F1E6 means the control board is sending the 'fire' signal to that relay but nothing's happening. The relay's either physically failed open, or the board's driver circuit that energizes the relay coil is shot and can't complete the switch. high	high
F2 E1	F2E1 on a Whirlpool microwave means the control board detected a touchpad key being pressed when no key should be active. This is a keypad membrane short circuit, typically from steam moisture penetrating the membrane layers. moderate	moderate
F6	The F6 code means the main control board detected a relay fault or internal logic failure. The processor tried to check the state of its own switching relays and got back garbage. Could be a welded relay, could be a fried microprocessor. Either way, the board's not doing its job and it knows it. high	high
HUB	Whirlpool over-the-range and countertop microwaves use F/E combination error codes. F1E4 means the main power relay is physically stuck on. F1E5 is a humidity sensor fault. F1E6 means the magnetron relay failed. F2E1 is a shorted keypad. F6 is a communication dropout between the main board and secondary board. moderate	moderate
NO-HEAT	The magnetron generates the microwave energy that heats your food. When it dies, the microwave looks completely normal from the outside, lights on, turntable spinning, timer counting down, but there's zero energy actually going into that food. critical	critical
NOT-HEATING	The microwave's getting power, the timer's counting down, but the magnetron, which is the component that actually generates the radio waves that heat your food, has failed or isn't receiving the high-voltage power it needs to fire up. high	high

Oven

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Code	Meaning	Severity
BROKEN-KNOBS	The knob's plastic D-shaped insert has stripped or cracked, so it's spinning freely around the metal switch shaft instead of turning it. Basically the plastic and the shaft aren't connecting anymore. Sometimes a small metal tension clip is just missing, which causes the exact same spinning problem. moderate	moderate
BURNER-NO-HEAT	The heating circuit is broken somewhere between the control board and the actual heat source, whether that's an electric element or a gas igniter and valve combo. The board thinks it's running a bake cycle but the heat never shows up because the circuit is open. high	high
BURNER-NOT-HEATING	One or more of the surface heating elements on your Whirlpool range has stopped functioning, heats inconsistently, or has visible physical damage preventing safe operation. moderate	moderate
BURNER-NOT-WORKING	One or more surface heating elements on your Whirlpool electric range aren't heating even though the controls are on, meaning there's a break somewhere in that circuit, whether it's the element itself, the socket block, the switch behind the knob, or the wiring running behind the panel. moderate	moderate
BURNER-REPLACE	The surface heating element on your Whirlpool range has failed because the internal filament snapped or the metal prongs at the terminal block are making a bad connection. The coil can't complete the circuit, so there's no heat. moderate	moderate
BURNER-WONT-HEAT	Something broke the electrical path between your control switch and the heating coil. Could be the coil cracked, the connection point melted from arcing, or the infinite switch's internal contacts failed and won't close anymore. On gas models, it's usually a blocked port or a dead spark module cutting off ignition. moderate	moderate
CLICKING-FIX	The oven's control board uses mechanical relays that physically click open and closed to send power to the heating elements. When those relays start cycling rapidly or randomly, it usually means the contacts inside are wearing out, or the board's getting bad data from the temperature sensor and can't decide what to do. moderate	moderate
CLICKING-SYMPTOM	Your oven's ignition or relay circuit isn't completing its cycle and stopping. It keeps firing. On gas models, the spark module's stuck sending voltage to the igniters. On electric models, a relay's chattering between open and closed. Something's telling the oven to keep trying when it should've quit. high	high
CRACKED-GLASS	The ceramic glass cooking surface has cracked, chipped, or pitted so badly that it can't be used safely. Once the glass is breached, liquids can run through to the 240-volt elements below. There's no patching it. The whole panel has to come out. high	high
DOOR-STUCK	The oven's motorized door lock engages before self-clean starts and won't retract until the internal temperature sensor confirms the cavity's dropped below roughly 150°F. The board holds the door hostage until it gets that all-clear signal. When it gets stuck, something in that communication chain or the mechanical latch itself broke down. moderate	moderate
E1	The control board's detecting a permanent closed circuit somewhere in the user interface. Either a button's registering as constantly pressed, or the sensor wiring's shorted to the chassis. The board can't figure out what you're actually asking it to do, so it locks out and throws the code. high	high
E2 F3	E2 F3 is an alternate display format of the F3 E2 code on some Whirlpool models, the control board displays the E sub-code before the F code. It indicates the secondary temperature sensor circuit has a wiring short or the thermistor's reading outside its acceptable range. high	high
F1	The F1 code indicates a primary control failure, typically involving the Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. It signifies that the board has detected a runaway temperature condition or an internal logic error that prevents it from safely monitoring the oven. critical	critical
F1 E0	F1 E0 means the control board tried to verify its stored EEPROM data and failed the checksum. The E0 specifically tags this as a memory integrity failure. Basically the oven's brain wrote down its settings, went back to check them, and the math didn't match. So it shuts everything down and won't run anything until that gets resolved. high	high
F1 E1	F1 E1 means the main control board detected a failure in its internal communication bus, or it can't exchange data with a secondary board. On double oven models this usually means the two boards stopped talking to each other. On single ovens it's typically an internal board failure or a grounded component feeding electrical noise back into the control circuit. moderate	moderate
F10	F10 means the oven's control board clocked the temperature blowing past safe limits, usually somewhere above 590-600°F during a normal bake cycle. The board detects this through resistance changes in the sensor probe, and when those numbers stop making sense, it kills power and throws the code. high	high
F1E2	F1E2 means the main control board's analog-to-digital converter has either failed or the board can't sync its internal software to the oven's hardware config. Think of it like your computer suddenly not recognizing its own keyboard. The board's there, the oven's there, but they stopped talking to each other. high	high
F2	F2 on a Whirlpool oven is a genuine runaway-heat safety shutoff - the oven temperature exceeded a safe threshold (typically 590 degrees F in bake mode or 990 degrees F in broil mode) and the board shut the oven down to prevent damage or fire. This is different from many other brands where F2 is a sensor short. high	high
F2	F2 means the control board got a temperature reading that pushed past the oven's safety ceiling, usually somewhere around 590-615°F depending on the model. Either the temp sensor sent a bad signal saying it's hotter than it really is, or the oven actually is that hot because the heat won't shut off. high	high
F2 E0	F2 E0 means the Cancel or Off key on your oven's keypad is registering as stuck closed, like someone's holding it down non-stop. The control board sees a continuous signal on that input circuit and throws this fault to keep the oven from ignoring every command you try to give it. moderate	moderate
F2 E1	F2 E1 indicates the Off key specifically (as distinct from the Cancel key addressed by F2 E0) is registering as continuously pressed on the oven keypad. The board detects a persistent input on the off-key circuit, which prevents normal mode transitions. moderate	moderate
F2 E6	F2E6 on a Whirlpool oven specifically identifies the Cancel key circuit as shorted on the keypad membrane. moderate	moderate
F3	F3 on older Whirlpool oven models (single-digit code display) indicates the oven temperature sensor has either opened (broken circuit) or shorted. This is functionally identical to F3 E0 on newer models with alphanumeric displays - the oven cannot read temperature and shuts down. high	high
F3 E0	F3 E0 means the main oven cavity RTD sensor is reading either open circuit (meter shows OL, wire's snapped inside the probe) or short circuit (resistance near zero ohms). The board can't calculate oven temperature from either reading, so it kills all heating functions immediately. high	high
F5	F5 means the oven's control board can't confirm the door latch position. The switches inside the latch assembly are supposed to send a 'locked' or 'unlocked' signal back to the board, and right now it's getting nothing useful. high	high
F5 E1	F5 E1 means the door latch system failed to complete its locking sequence when the self-clean cycle was initiated. The board commanded the latch motor to lock, but the latch position switch did not confirm the locked state within the expected timeframe. moderate	moderate
F6 E1	F6 E1 fires when the RTD temperature sensor sends a value the control board can't make sense of during its startup self-check. The sensor's either reading too high, too low, or going erratic. Sometimes it's a genuinely bad sensor, but honestly it's just as often a loose connection at the sensor harness that's causing the bad reading. high	high
F6 E4	F6E4 means the control board detected current leaking from the heating element circuit to the metal chassis of the oven. The internal coil failed in a way that lets electricity jump to the frame instead of completing its normal circuit through the element. high	high
F8 E0	F8 E0 means the control board has detected a stuck key on the touchpad keypad overlay. One or more membrane switch contacts are continuously closed - as if a button is being held down indefinitely - which prevents normal input processing. moderate	moderate
F9	F9 on older Whirlpool oven models with single-digit code displays means the door latch system has faulted. Either the latch won't engage for self-clean, won't release after self-clean, or the latch position switch isn't confirming the expected latch state to the control board. high	high
F9 E0	F9 E0 means the self-clean door latch will not retract to the unlocked position after a self-clean cycle completes. The oven is locked and the door cannot be opened. The latch motor attempted to release but the board did not confirm the latch reached the open position. high	high
GLASS-TOP-CRACKED	The ceramic glass cooktop surface is physically damaged, cracked, or shattered, posing a safety hazard and potential electrical risk. high	high
GLASSTOP-ELEMENT	The flat resistive ribbon coiled inside the element housing under your glass has either burned through completely, or the internal thermal limiter tripped for good. The glass stays cold but your control panel acts like everything's fine because the switch is still sending signal normally. high	high
HUB	When the control board detects something outside its acceptable range, it throws a two-part code on the display. F tells you the function that failed, like temperature sensing or door locking. E tells you the specific component within that function. Together they're basically the board pointing a finger at the exact problem so you know where to start. high	high
IGNITION-FAILURE	The burner covers, also known as drip pans or burner caps, are either misaligned, excessively dirty, or rusted through. This prevents the burner from igniting properly or causes uneven flame distribution by blocking the gas ports or fouling the spark electrode. moderate	moderate
IGNITION-FAILURE	The oven's ignition sequence didn't complete. Either the glow igniter failed to reach operating temperature, it's not drawing enough amperage to open the gas safety valve, or on the cooktop side the spark module stopped sending pulses to the electrodes. high	high
KNOB-BROKEN	The control knob has lost its physical connection to the burner valve or infinite switch, usually due to a failure of the internal plastic D-stem or the metal reinforcement clip. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The oven's heating circuit isn't completing. Either the element that generates heat has physically failed, the igniter can't draw enough current to open the gas valve, or a safety component like the thermal fuse has blown and cut all power to the heating system to prevent a fire. moderate	moderate
OVEN-NOT-WORKING	The oven's either totally dead with no display at all, or it's powering on normally but refusing to heat. Either way, something's broken the circuit between your wall power and the heating elements, whether that's a fuse, a failed element, or the control board itself. high	high
PF	PF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming power dropped out, either completely or enough to register as a real interruption. Doesn't matter if it was a full blackout or a two-second dip. The board saw the lights go out and flagged it. low	low
SMOKING	Your oven's producing visible smoke because either manufacturing residue is burning off the heating elements during initial break-in, carbonized food debris is igniting on the element shield under the floor panel, or the bake and broil element's internal nichrome wire is shorting through a crack in its outer metal casing and arcing. moderate	moderate
SURFACE-DAMAGE	This refers to physical degradation of the cooktop surface, including deep scratches, chemical pitting, or permanent stains that cannot be removed through standard cleaning methods. low	low
UNEVEN-HEAT	The oven's heating elements or convection system can't maintain a consistent temperature across the entire cooking cavity. Hot air isn't circulating properly, the elements are failing unevenly, or the door seal is letting heat escape, creating temperature zones that vary by 50°F or more from one spot to another. moderate	moderate
WH-OVEN-NO-HEAT	Your oven's heating circuit broke down somewhere between the power supply and the actual heat source. Either the bake element can't carry current anymore, the igniter can't draw enough amps to pop the gas valve open, or a safety component like the thermal fuse tripped and cut power to everything downstream. high	high
WHIRLPOOL-OVEN-RESET	A Whirlpool oven reset is a forced reboot of the electronic control board that clears stuck software states, unlocks a frozen keypad, and wipes false error codes stored in volatile memory. Basically the board loses power long enough that it can't remember what it was doing wrong. low	low
WONT-START	Your Whirlpool oven isn't getting the power or the signal it needs to run. Either the 240V supply's interrupted at the breaker, a safety component like the thermal fuse has cut the circuit to protect the unit, or the control board's lost the ability to send commands to the heating elements. moderate	moderate
f1e3	F1E3 means the main Appliance Control Unit lost communication with the User Interface board, basically the touchpad and display. The ACU's not getting valid signals back from the UI, so it shuts everything down rather than run blind. moderate	moderate
f3 on whirlpool oven	The oven control board has detected a failure in the oven temperature sensor (RTD) circuit, indicating the sensor is either open or shorted. high	high

Refrigerator

View all 24 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
E2	E2 fires when the control board can't get a valid reading from the freezer thermistor. Either the sensor's gone open circuit, it's shorted out, or the wiring harness connecting it to the board got damaged. Basically, your freezer's temperature feedback loop is broken. moderate	moderate
E2	E2 means the main control board lost its communication link, either to the user interface board on the door or to a temperature thermistor inside the cabinet. The board sends a signal, nothing comes back, and it throws the code to let you know something in that circuit isn't responding. moderate	moderate
E5	E5 on a Whirlpool refrigerator means a temperature sensor in the freezer or fresh food compartment is reading outside the expected range. The control board cannot rely on the sensor data to regulate cooling. high	high
EVERYDROP-FILTER	Your EveryDrop filter uses a compressed carbon block to trap chlorine, lead, cysts, and pharmaceuticals before water hits your glass. When it's saturated it can't absorb anything new, and the physical sediment buildup starts restricting flow until it's basically a wall. moderate	moderate
FILTER-ISSUES	The EDR1RXD1 is Whirlpool's purple-coded Filter 1, used across a ton of their side-by-side and French door models. When you get flow issues, it basically means the internal valve in the filter head isn't getting a proper seal or pressure signal to open up. It's a pressure-activated system, so installation has to be exact. low	low
FREEZING	The fridge compartment is getting too much cold air from the evaporator. Either the damper door isn't closing properly, the thermistor is sending bad temperature data so the board keeps calling for more cooling, or the temp was set way lower than it should be and nobody noticed. moderate	moderate
FROST-ISSUE	Moisture from the air hits the evaporator coils and freezes there. Normally the defrost heater melts it off every 8-12 hours. When that cycle fails, ice keeps building until it completely buries the coils and blocks the fan. No airflow means the fridge section warms up while the freezer stays cold. high	high
HUB	Whirlpool WRF and WRS series refrigerators display alphanumeric error codes when sensors, fans, or control circuits detect a fault. Each code points to a specific subsystem, so you're not just guessing what broke. Find the code, check the wiring, then check the part. low	low
ICE-MAKER	The ice maker module has stopped its harvest cycle and isn't calling for water or dropping ice. Could be a blocked optical sensor that thinks the bin's full when it's empty, a failed water inlet valve not letting water into the mold, or a thermal issue from temps set too cold. Basically, something broke the loop between 'make ice' and 'drop ice.' moderate	moderate
LEAKING	Water is escaping from somewhere in your fridge's water circuit or its internal defrost drainage. That could be the defrost drain tube freezing over and backing up, the water supply line or inlet valve weeping, or the filter housing leaking under pressure every time the ice maker fills. moderate	moderate
LOW-FLOW	Low water flow means something's restricting the path water takes from your wall supply to the dispenser nozzle. Could be a clog, a frozen line, or a valve that won't open all the way. The fridge detects this as inadequate delivery pressure. low	low
LOW-FLOW	The EveryDrop water filtration system is experiencing a restriction. This is usually caused by a saturated filter, air trapped in the lines, or an improper seal between the filter and the refrigerator housing manifold. low	low
NOISE	An unusual noise means something mechanical is either wearing out or actively failing. Usually it's a fan motor with dying bearings, a compressor relay that can't get the compressor started, or completely normal operational sounds from the refrigerant cycle and ice maker. The location of the sound tells you almost everything you need to know. moderate	moderate
NOT-COOLING	The fridge isn't reaching its set temperature because the cooling cycle is broken somewhere between the compressor, condenser, evaporator coils, or the fans that move air across them. Could be electrical, mechanical, or a refrigerant issue, but honestly 80% of the time it's one of the first three. moderate	moderate
NOT-RUNNING	Your compressor is basically a pump that moves refrigerant through the whole system. When it won't turn on, nothing cools. It's that simple. Both compartments go warm at the same rate because the entire sealed system stops dead. high	high
PF	The PF code means the fridge's control board detected that power was cut while the unit was running. It's a status alert, not a component failure. The board logged the event and it's waiting for you to acknowledge it before resuming normal operation. low	low
PO	PO on a Whirlpool refrigerator stands for Power Outage. The refrigerator detected an interruption in electrical power and is alerting you to check whether food temperatures were compromised during the outage. low	low
REFRIGERATOR-DIAG	Whirlpool French door and side-by-side refrigerators include a built-in diagnostic mode that stores error codes related to temperature sensors, fan motors, defrost systems, and communication faults. Entering this mode lets you read the codes without any special tools. low	low
REFRIGERATOR-DIAG-CODES	After entering diagnostic mode, Whirlpool refrigerators display alphanumeric codes that identify which component or circuit triggered a fault. Each code maps to a specific sensor, fan, or control board function. low	low
SLOW-WATER-DISPENSER	Something's blocking water from moving through the supply line, filter, and into the dispenser. Could be the filter itself, a solenoid that's not opening all the way, or a kinked line somewhere. Either way, not enough water's getting through to give you a proper pour. low	low
WARM-FRIDGE-COLD-FREEZER	The freezer's cooling system is working fine, but cold air isn't making it to the fridge side. Either frost has walled off the evaporator coils, the fan's not pushing air through, or the damper that controls airflow between the two sections is stuck shut. high	high
WATER-DISPENSER	The dispenser lost its water flow path somewhere between your supply line and the spout. Either something's physically blocking it, like a frozen tube or a clogged filter, a valve solenoid isn't opening when it should, or the switch that tells the valve to open isn't sending the signal. Usually one of those three. moderate	moderate
WHR1RXD1	The WHR1RXD1 is a primary carbon-block filtration cartridge, also known as EveryDrop Filter 1, designed to remove lead, pesticides, and chlorine from your refrigerator's water and ice system. moderate	moderate
WSS-NOT-COOLING	Your Whirlpool runs a single evaporator in the freezer to cool both sides. When that system loses airflow or the defrost cycle fails, heat exchange breaks down and the fresh food section can't hold that 37-degree target, even when the freezer looks totally fine. high	high

Washer

View all 162 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
5D	The washer detected excessive foam in the tub. This is a safety pause, not a mechanical failure. The machine suspends the cycle and runs extra rinse passes to clear the suds. low	low
BANGING-ON-SPIN	The washer tub has lost its ability to remain centered or dampened during high-speed rotation, resulting in the outer tub striking the cabinet walls. high	high
CABRIO-HUB	The control board lost communication with a key mechanical component. F7E1 means the shift actuator isn't reporting its position correctly. F5E2 means the lid lock circuit is open and the board can't confirm the lid's closed. F51 means the rotor position sensor lost motor tracking. LOC means the control lock is active and blocking input. moderate	moderate
CLEANING	This is a dedicated maintenance cycle that pumps water higher than a normal wash and runs hotter to flush the outer tub, behind the drum, and the internal plumbing where residue hides. Your clothes never touch that space, but the buildup in there is exactly what makes them smell after washing. low	low
CLEANING	Periodic maintenance to remove debris, coins, and lint from the drain pump filter to prevent drainage failures and odors. low	low
CLEANING	This is the machine telling you it needs a flush. Between the inner and outer tubs there's a gap you can't reach, and that's where mold, scrud, and detergent buildup collect over time. It's basically a scheduled deep clean of the whole system, not just the part you can see. low	low
CLEAR-CODES	The control board logs fault codes in memory whenever something goes wrong. Clearing codes wipes that log. The washer doesn't care about old codes, but a stored code can block a new cycle from starting or show up in diagnostic mode. You want it gone once the actual repair is done. low	low
DD-NOT-SPIN	When a direct drive washer won't spin, something in the mechanical drivetrain has failed. Unlike belt-driven machines, there's no belt to check. The motor connects directly to the transmission through a plastic coupling and a mechanical clutch. When either of those breaks, the motor spins freely but the basket doesn't move. high	high
DIAGNOSTIC-MODE-CODES	Whirlpool appliances store fault codes in nonvolatile memory that you can retrieve through a hidden service mode. The entry method varies by appliance type and model generation, but once you're in, the board shows you every error it's logged, not just what's tripping right now. low	low
DOOR-LOCKED	The door lock circuit isn't getting a confirmation signal that the latch has released. On front-loaders the wax motor actuator may still be warm and engaged. On top-loaders the solenoid isn't getting power or the strike isn't physically aligning with the lock bolt. Either way, the board won't unlock until it gets the all-clear. moderate	moderate
DRAIN-FILTER	The lint filter, more accurately called the drain pump filter or large object trap, is a protective screen that catches coins, hair, and fabric fibers before they can damage the drain pump impeller. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	The drain pump is the motorized component responsible for forcing waste water out of the wash tub and through the drain hose during the drain and spin portions of the cycle. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	The drain pump is the mechanical heart of your washer's drainage system, responsible for forcing water out of the drum and through the drain hose during the drain and spin cycles. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	When the washer hits the drain portion of the cycle, the control board sends 120V to the pump motor. That motor spins an impeller that pushes water out through the drain hose. If anything blocks that impeller or the motor windings fail, the water just stays in the drum. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	The drain pump is the motorized component that pulls water out of the wash tub and forces it through the drain hose during drain and spin cycles. When it fails, water just sits there. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	The drain pump is the mechanical component responsible for evacuating water from the washer tub at the end of the wash and rinse cycles. If this part fails, the machine will stop mid-cycle, usually leaving the tub full of soapy water. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP	The drain pump is the electric motor and impeller assembly that removes water from the washer tub during the drain and spin portions of the laundry cycle. high	high
DRAIN-PUMP-FILTER	It's a small removable plastic basket that sits right before the drain pump motor. When water leaves the tub, it passes through this basket first. The filter catches coins, lint, hair, and anything else that fell out of pockets so that junk never reaches the pump impeller and destroys it. high	high
DRAINING-CONSTANTLY	Your washer's pressure switch uses a thin air tube to sense the water level in the tub. When that signal gets corrupted by a clog or a siphon physically pulling water out, the control board defaults to flood prevention mode and locks the drain pump on. It's basically stuck in a safety loop it can't exit on its own. high	high
DRAINING-SOUND	The drain pump is actively energized or experiencing a mechanical obstruction. This can be a normal part of the cycle, a safety response to a perceived flood, or a mechanical failure of the pump or control board. moderate	moderate
DUET-HUB	F21 and F02 fire when the control board doesn't detect the water level dropping within about 8 minutes of drain time. F20 means no water ever entered the tub. F9E1 points specifically at the drain pump motor circuit. All of these are the machine saying water isn't moving the way it should. moderate	moderate
E01 F09	The E01 F09 code means Long Drain fault. Your washer's control board detected that the water level isn't dropping fast enough, or at all, within the allotted 8-minute window. The pump's running but it's losing the fight against whatever's blocking the flow. high	high
E1	E1 on a Whirlpool washer is a sub-code that appears in combination with an F-code prefix. The E1 means 'sub-fault 1' within a fault category. However, some Whirlpool displays show only E1 when the F-code has scrolled off screen. The most common E1 combinations are F3 E1 (temperature sensor), F7 E1 (motor), F8 E1 (water), and F5 E1 (door lock wiring). moderate	moderate
E2	E2 on a Whirlpool washer is a sub-code that shows up with various F-code prefixes. It's the second part of a two-part error. The most common E2 combinations are F5 E2 (door lock fault), F3 E2 (temperature sensor shorted), F0 E2 (load too large or overload), and F2 E2 (UI board communication dropout). moderate	moderate
E2 F3	The control board sent a signal to the water temperature sensor and got back a reading that's either dead zero or completely open circuit. It can't tell if the water's 40 degrees or 140 degrees, so it shuts everything down rather than guess wrong. moderate	moderate
F0 E7	The F0 E7 error code indicates a software or hardware failure within the Central Control Unit (CCU) or main electronic control board. It signifies that the board's internal memory has failed a checksum test or experienced a corruption that prevents the machine from operating safely. high	high
F0 E7	The control board fired the inlet valves and waited for the pressure transducer to report a rising water level. Nothing came back. Either water didn't get in, the pressure hose isn't transmitting the air signal up to the switch, or the switch itself isn't sending the electrical response the board expects. moderate	moderate
F01	The Central Control Unit (CCU) detected an internal electronic failure, basically a communication error or corrupted memory on the main board. The machine's 'brain' sent itself a signal it couldn't understand and locked up. high	high
F02	F02 means the control board started a drain cycle, ran the pump for 8 minutes, and the water level sensor never confirmed the tub was empty. So the board threw up its hands and killed the cycle. Something's blocking the water from getting out fast enough. moderate	moderate
F05 E02	The control board sends a signal to engage the door lock solenoid, then waits for a confirmation signal back. If it doesn't get one, it throws F05 E02. Could be a dead solenoid, a broken wire somewhere in between, or the board itself not firing the signal. moderate	moderate
F06	The CCU is basically asking the motor 'how fast are you spinning?' and not getting an answer. Either the tachometer coil's dead, the wiring's lost contact, or the MCU that sits between them has failed. The machine shuts down as a safety stop so the motor doesn't overheat trying to run blind. high	high
F0E1	F0E1 fires when the washer's load-sensing circuit detects weight or water pressure during a cycle that requires an empty tub, like Clean Washer or Calibration. The control board sees something's in there and stops the cycle dead before it can damage anything. low	low
F1	F1 means Primary Control Failure. The main electronic control board found an internal memory error or it lost the signal from the built-in water level sensor. Basically your washer's brain either had a glitch or something on it physically died and it can't figure out what's happening with the water inside. high	high
F1 E1	The F1 E1 error code on a Whirlpool washer indicates a primary control board failure, specifically a malfunction within the EEPROM or a communication breakdown between the main electronic control and the rest of the machine components. high	high
F11	F11 is a Serial Communication Failure between the CCU (Central Control Unit, the main brain) and the MCU (Motor Control Unit, the board that actually drives the motor). The two boards send constant signals back and forth during a cycle, and when that signal drops out even briefly, this code fires. high	high
F1E1	The F1E1 error code signifies a primary control unit failure, specifically within the Appliance Control Unit (ACU). This indicates that the main logic board has detected an internal hardware malfunction or a memory corruption error that prevents the washer from operating safely. high	high
F2	The F2 error code on a Whirlpool washer indicates a stuck key or a user interface communication failure. This happens when the main control board detects that a button has been pressed for more than 15 consecutive seconds. moderate	moderate
F20	No water detected during fill. Older code for the same condition as LF. The washer did not sense any change in water level after the inlet valve was commanded to open. moderate	moderate
F21	F21 is the control board calling a Long Drain fault. The machine ran the drain pump for a full 8 minutes and the pressure switch never registered empty, which means either the water isn't moving at all or it's moving too slowly to satisfy the timer. high	high
F22	The control board watches that lid switch the whole time the cycle runs. When it tries to kick into spin and sees an open circuit instead of closed, it throws F22 and stops cold. Basically it thinks your lid is open even when it's not. The switch contacts have failed or the plunger isn't reaching the switch body anymore. moderate	moderate
F24	F24 on older Whirlpool Duet washers (pre-2010 models) indicates a water temperature sensor circuit fault. This is the legacy code equivalent of F3 E1/F3 E2 on newer models. The NTC thermistor is either open circuit, short circuit, or reading out of range. moderate	moderate
F27	The overflow float switch was triggered, indicating water in the tub reached a dangerous level. The machine immediately stopped the cycle to prevent flooding. A stuck-open inlet valve or a failed pressure switch are the two most likely causes. critical	critical
F28	F28 on older Whirlpool Duet washers means the central control unit (CCU) and motor control unit (MCU) stopped talking to each other. They communicate over a serial data line, basically a dedicated wire just for sending commands. When that signal drops out, you get F28 and the drum won't move. high	high
F29	F29 means the washer door can't unlock. The CCU tried to release the door lock mechanism six times, didn't get the confirmation signal back, and threw the fault. Something in that lock circuit - the solenoid, the wiring, or the relay on the board - isn't doing its job. high	high
F3 E1	The water temperature NTC thermistor is reading outside its valid range. The control board cannot verify the water temperature and has paused the cycle. moderate	moderate
F3 E2	The thermistor is basically a resistor that changes resistance based on water temperature. When it shorts, resistance drops to near zero and the control board reads that as an impossible temperature spike. So instead of guessing, the board throws F3 E2 and kills the cycle. It's actually doing its job, just telling you something's wrong. moderate	moderate
F33	The CCU sends a drive signal to activate the drain pump motor. When the circuit doesn't complete, the board detects an open or shorted pump drive circuit and throws F33. Basically the pump isn't responding the way the board expects electrically. high	high
F3E1	The control board reads a voltage signal from the pressure transducer to know how much water's in the tub. F3E1 fires when that signal is out of range, missing, or bouncing around in a way that doesn't match what the cycle logic expects. Basically the board's saying it can't trust the water level reading. moderate	moderate
F4 E1	The heater NTC thermistor returned an out-of-range reading on front-load models with internal heating elements. The control board can't confirm the water temp and has suspended the heating cycle to prevent damage. moderate	moderate
F4 E4	The tub detected an uneven load distribution during spin. The machine paused the spin cycle to protect the suspension system and prevent the tub from striking the cabinet. low	low
F5	F5 on a Whirlpool washer means the door or lid lock system threw a fault. It's almost always paired with a sub-code: E2 means the lock tried to engage but the board got no confirmation, E3 means the door switch didn't confirm it's physically closed, and E4 means the lock engaged fine but then couldn't release. Two totally different lock designs depending on your model type. moderate	moderate
F5 E1	The F5 E1 code fires when the control board sends power to the lid lock solenoid but doesn't get the closed-circuit confirmation signal back within the timeout window. Basically the board's saying it tried to lock the lid and got nothing back, either because the latch is broken, blocked, or there's a wiring issue somewhere in the harness. high	high
F5 E1	The control board sent power to the lid lock solenoid and waited for a confirmation signal that the lid was secured. It didn't get that signal back, so it shut everything down. Could be a dead solenoid, a broken switch inside the lock, or bad wiring between the two. moderate	moderate
F5 E2	The F5 E2 error code indicates a lid lock failure where the central control board is unable to verify that the lid is successfully locked. This safety protocol prevents the washer from spinning if the lid is not secured. high	high
F5 E2	The control board sent the lock command but never got confirmation back that the door or lid actually secured. Something's either blocking physical closure, the latch is worn out, or there's a loose connection between the latch assembly and the board. moderate	moderate
F5 E3	The F5 E3 error code indicates a Lid Unlock Failure, meaning the control board is attempting to unlock the lid but the lock mechanism is physically stuck or the sensor is not confirming the unlocked state. high	high
F5 E3	The lid lock assembly failed to engage within 5 seconds of cycle start, or the control detected an unexpected lock state. The washer will not run without a confirmed lid lock signal. moderate	moderate
F50	F50 means the control board sent power to the motor but got nothing back from the Rotor Position Sensor, so it has no idea if the basket is spinning, stalled, or stuck. It shuts down to protect the motor from burning out under load. high	high
F51	F51 means the main control board sent a command to the motor but got zero feedback from the Rotor Position Sensor. The board can't confirm the tub even moved, so it throws the code and kills the cycle before something worse happens inside the drive system. high	high
F51	F51 means the control board lost communication with the Rotor Position Sensor. The board can't see how fast or where the motor is spinning, so it shuts everything down rather than risk the tub overspeeding or going wildly off balance during a cycle. high	high
F51	The F51 error indicates a Motor Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) failure. This means the main control board cannot determine the speed or direction of the wash basket, leading to a safety shutdown. high	high
F52	The control board sent a stop command to the drive motor and expected a signal back confirming rotation dropped to zero. That signal never came back, so F52 fires. Something in the chain between the motor, the MCU, and the main board broke down. high	high
F5E1	F5E1 fires when the control board sends voltage to the lid lock solenoid but never gets back the confirmation signal that the latch actually engaged. Could be the solenoid itself, a broken connection in the harness, or a dead switch inside the assembly. high	high
F5E2	The main control board sends voltage to the door lock solenoid, waits for a confirmation signal that the bolt actually engaged, and never gets it back. Could be a dead solenoid, a failed microswitch inside the lock, or a broken wire in between. Board won't let the cycle start without that closed-circuit confirmation. high	high
F6	The F6 code means the main control board (CCU) and the motor controller (MCU) stopped talking to each other, or the motor's tachometer isn't sending a speed signal back. The washer shuts down because it can't safely run the motor when it doesn't know what the motor's actually doing. high	high
F6 E1	F6 E1 means the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) can't talk to each other anymore. The main board sends signals to the motor controller, the motor controller doesn't respond, and the machine shuts down rather than risk spinning out of control. high	high
F6 E3	F6 E3 means the main control board (ACU) and the user interface board (UI) lost their data connection. One board is transmitting and the other isn't receiving. Could be wiring, could be a dead communication chip on either board. high	high
F6 E3	The main control board and the motor control unit need to constantly exchange data during a cycle. When that signal disappears or comes back garbled, the washer can't confirm the motor circuit is running safely, so it shuts down and throws F6 E3. The motor itself is usually fine. high	high
F7 E1	The motor control detected a motor stall, a current spike, or a rotor position error during agitation or spin. Could be an overloaded tub, a seized basket bearing, a failed drive motor winding, or a bad motor control unit. high	high
F7 E1	The F7 E1 error code indicates a Tachometer Fault or Basket Speed Sensor Error. This happens when the main control board cannot detect the rotation of the basket or the motor speed is not within the expected range during a cycle. moderate	moderate
F7 E5	The F7 E5 error means the main control board can't confirm the shift actuator's cam position or read the basket speed signal during a cycle. The optical sensor inside the actuator isn't sending back the data the board expects, so it shuts down to protect the motor and transmission. high	high
F8	F8 on a Whirlpool washer is the water system fault category. F8 E1 means water supply timeout (no water or slow fill). F8 E2 is a dispenser fault. F8 E3 is an overflow condition. F8 E6 is a water flow meter fault. moderate	moderate
F8 E1	F8 E1 means the washer hit a 'Long Fill' condition. The control board's timer ran out waiting for the water level to rise. It's not getting enough water fast enough, so it throws the code and stops the cycle to protect the pump and heater from running dry. moderate	moderate
F8 E1	The water level sensor hasn't detected the minimum required level within the allowed fill time. Either not enough water is physically getting in, or the pressure switch isn't reading the level correctly. The board basically counts down a timer and if the tub doesn't fill fast enough, it throws up its hands. moderate	moderate
F8 E3	F8 E3 on a Whirlpool washer is an overflow alert, meaning the washer detected water above the maximum safe level. It's one of the most urgent Whirlpool error codes because it signals a real flooding risk, not just a sensor hiccup. critical	critical
F8 E6	The washer detected hot water coming through the cold valve port, or cold water through the hot valve port. Either the supply hoses are connected backwards at the machine or at the wall, or less commonly, your house's hot and cold pipes are actually swapped behind the wall. moderate	moderate
F8E1	The control board opened the inlet valve and watched the pressure transducer for a water level rise. It didn't see one within the allowed fill time, so it stopped the cycle and flagged F8E1. Basically the machine's way of saying it tried to fill and got nothing. moderate	moderate
F9	F9 on a Whirlpool washer is the drain system fault category. Like F5 (door lock), F9 is always followed by a sub-code: F9 E1 means the drain cycle exceeded the maximum time (long drain), F9 E2 means a drain issue was detected during the spin cycle. moderate	moderate
F9 E1	The board's counting down from when the drain cycle starts. If the water level sensor doesn't confirm the tub is emptying within about 8-10 minutes, it throws F9 E1 and kills the cycle. Basically the machine's saying it tried to drain and nothing happened. moderate	moderate
F9 E1	The washer didn't drain within the time the control board expects, usually eight minutes. Shows up on front-load WFW models and newer top-load machines. It's the same fault as the old F21 code, just with updated display language on the newer platforms. moderate	moderate
F9E1	F9E1 means the control board started the drain cycle, ran the pump for 8 straight minutes, and the pressure switch still sensed water in the tub. Either water isn't moving fast enough through a blockage, or the pump is running but can't actually move anything. moderate	moderate
FLASHING-DOOR-LOCKED	The washer control board is attempting to engage the door lock but is not receiving the 'locked' confirmation signal from the latch assembly. This prevents the washer from starting for safety reasons. high	high
FRONT-LOAD-HUB	When you see F21 or F9E1, the washer's drain sensor detected it took longer than 8 minutes to drain. F8E1 means the flow meter didn't see water enter the tub on time. The machine didn't guess, it measured. Each code points to a specific sensor that caught something out of range during the cycle. moderate	moderate
FdL	FdL stands for Door Lock Failure. The CCU sends voltage to the door lock solenoid and waits for a confirmation signal that the bolt actually engaged. If it doesn't get that signal after six consecutive attempts, it kills the cycle and throws this code on the display. high	high
HOSE	The hoses on your Whirlpool washer are the critical pathways for water. Inlet hoses bring fresh water in under pressure, while the corrugated drain hose carries wastewater out to your standpipe or sink. When one of these fails or gets blocked, water either doesn't get in or doesn't get out, and you'll know about it pretty fast. high	high
HOW-TO-CLEAN-CABRIO	This guide provides step-by-step instructions for performing a deep maintenance clean on a Whirlpool Cabrio top-load washer to remove odors and residue. low	low
HOW-TO-RESET	Performing a hard reset on the electronic control board to clear error codes and resolve software glitches or frozen cycles. low	low
HOW-TO-RESET	Clearing the electronic control board memory to resolve minor software glitches, unresponsive buttons, or stuck cycles. low	low
HUB	The control board detected that the basket and the motor shaft aren't moving together. The drive hub is the plastic piece connecting the transmission's input shaft to your agitator or wash plate. When those plastic splines strip out, the motor shaft spins but nothing above it moves. That's the HUB code. low	low
LD	The drain cycle exceeded the allotted time. LD is the older designation for the same fault as F21. Used on earlier Whirlpool top-load models before the current F-code naming convention. moderate	moderate
LEAKING	A Whirlpool washer leaking water from the bottom, front, or underneath has a failed seal, hose, pump, or door boot depending on the location of the leak and whether it's a top-load or front-load model. moderate	moderate
LF	The washer didn't reach the required water level within 13 minutes. The control board's counting from the moment it opens the inlet valve, and if the tub isn't full enough when time's up, LF fires. Usually it's a supply problem, not a machine failure. moderate	moderate
LID-LOCK-BLINKING	The control board is unable to successfully engage the lid lock or cannot verify that the lid is securely closed. This prevents the washer from starting a cycle or entering the high-speed spin for safety reasons. high	high
LID-LOCK-FAILURE	The control board needs confirmation that the lid is physically locked before it'll allow spinning. When it can't get that signal, whether the strike's broken, the solenoid won't fire, or there's a wiring issue, it shuts the spin cycle down completely. No confirmation, no spin. high	high
LID-REPLACEMENT	The lid assembly or its supporting hardware has physically failed. Either the glass is compromised, the hinges have sagged enough to throw off alignment, or the strike tab that signals 'lid closed' to the lock sensor is broken. Any one of those things stops the lid lock from engaging, and without that, the washer won't run a cycle. low	low
LINE-FUSE	The internal electrical safety fuse has blown, acting as a circuit breaker to protect the main control board from power surges or internal component shorts. high	high
LO FL	The water fill flow rate fell below the minimum threshold during fill. The machine sensed water entering but not fast enough. Common causes include low water pressure, partially open supply valves, or clogged inlet valve screens. moderate	moderate
LOC	The LOC or LC code on a Whirlpool washer indicates that the Control Lock or Child Lock feature has been activated, which disables all buttons on the control panel to prevent accidental operation. low	low
LOC	The control lock (child lock) feature is active. All button presses are ignored while LOC is displayed. This is a user-activated feature, not a fault. low	low
NOISE	A Whirlpool washer generating abnormal noise indicates mechanical wear or failure in a drivetrain or suspension component. Unlike error codes, noise diagnostics rely on identifying the sound type (grinding, rumbling, banging, squealing) and the cycle phase during which it occurs to isolate the failing part to a specific assembly. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRAINING	The washer has failed to evacuate water from the drum within the programmed time limit, which usually triggers an F21 error code and prevents the machine from entering the spin cycle. high	high
NOT-FILLING	The control board sent a signal to open the water inlet valve solenoids, but either no water arrived or the pressure switch never confirmed the tub reached the target fill level. The cycle locks up waiting for a water-level confirmation that's not coming. moderate	moderate
NOT-LOCKING	The control board sent the lock command but didn't get the confirmation signal back that the lid actually secured. Without that confirmation, the board won't start a cycle or let the drum spin up. An unlocked lid during high-speed spin is a real injury risk, so it just stops. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	Your Cabrio has a hidden service menu that stores fault codes and lets you run manual component tests. When the basket won't spin, this mode tells you whether you're dealing with a mechanical failure like a broken belt, or an electronic problem like a dead sensor or a shift actuator that's done for. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer completes the wash cycle but fails to engage the high speed spin, leaving clothes saturated with water. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	NOT-SPINNING means the washer can't transition from wash or rinse into the high-speed centrifugal spin that actually wrings water out of your clothes. Something's blocking or breaking that handoff between the motor and the basket, and the control board's just refusing to finish the job. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The basket has reached the spin phase but it's just sitting there, not extracting water. Either the machine can't confirm it's safe to spin because of a lid lock issue, or the mechanical connection between the motor and basket has broken down somewhere between the belt and the drive hub. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The machine tried to shift into the high-speed spin cycle but couldn't complete the transition. You'll end up with soaking wet clothes, sometimes a humming noise while nothing moves, and possibly an F7E1 or uL code on the display. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The basket has reached the spin portion of the cycle but it's not rotating at high speed. Usually it's a break somewhere in the mechanical drive train, or a safety circuit telling the motor to hold off. It's almost never the motor itself that's actually failed. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The spin cycle can't engage because power isn't getting from the motor to the drum. Either something's physically broken between them, like the coupler, belt, or clutch, or a safety switch is blocking the whole spin signal from firing at all. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The washer finishes the agitation phase fine but can't transition into high-speed spin. The splutch, a mechanical component that switches between agitate and spin modes, either isn't moving or isn't engaging the basket. End result: clothes sitting in water, cycle technically finished. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer's failing to hit the high-speed centrifugal extraction phase, basically the part that wrings out your clothes. Could be a mechanical failure in the drive system, an electrical issue in the motor circuit, or a safety lockout because the water didn't drain properly or the door didn't register as locked. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The drum's not hitting max RPM during the final spin phase. Centrifugal force needs to be high enough to pull water out of the fabric, and if the machine senses a problem with drainage, balance, or the door latch signal, it'll throttle way back or skip the high-speed spin entirely. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer fills and agitates but fails to enter the high-speed spin cycle, often leaving clothes dripping wet at the end of the program. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The tub spins fine during the wash cycle, but when it's supposed to ramp up to high-speed spin it doesn't. Clothes come out soaking wet. That fast spin is what actually wrings the water out, and without it you're basically just sloshing wet laundry around. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	A control board reset clears the temporary memory and internal logic of the washer, resolving software glitches, communication errors between the CCU and MCU, or stuck cycles that won't let the machine move on to spinning or draining. Basically, it forces the computer to forget whatever confused state it was in and start fresh. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The washer has reached the spin portion of the cycle but the inner basket remains stationary while the motor hums or the machine sits silent. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer completes the agitation phase but fails to engage the high-speed extract mode. This leaves the laundry saturated with water and usually indicates a failure in the drive system, door security, or drainage circuit. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer has completed the wash cycle and drained the water, but the inner basket fails to rotate at high speed to extract moisture from the clothes. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The motor's getting power and spinning just fine, but somewhere between the motor and the basket, the mechanical connection is broken or disengaged. Think of it like a car engine revving in neutral. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer's control board has detected that the basket is not rotating at the commanded speed or the shifter has failed to move the drive system from agitation mode into spin mode. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The washer finished its wash or rinse cycle but can't engage the high-speed spin to pull water out of the clothes. Something in the shifting mechanism broke down, or a safety interlock is blocking it. The motor's probably fine. It's usually a mechanical problem between the motor and the tub. high	high
OL	The machine has detected an 'Overloaded' condition. This happens when the control board senses too much mechanical resistance or weight while trying to rotate the wash basket. moderate	moderate
OL	The control board has detected that the tub is overloaded or that there is excessive mechanical friction preventing the motor from spinning at the correct speed. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	Common mechanical and electronic failures found in Whirlpool top-load and front-load washing machines. moderate	moderate
PROBLEMS	The WTW4816FW is a VMW platform top-loader - basically a gearcase-driven transmission with a belt and motor underneath. When it acts up, you're usually hunting for one worn-out plastic part in the mechanical drive train, or a sensor that's lost communication with the control board. moderate	moderate
RESET	A reset clears active error codes and restores the control board to its default state. It doesn't fix the underlying fault that caused an error code, but it lets you attempt a fresh cycle and confirm whether the fault is persistent or was just a one-time glitch. low	low
RL	The RL code fires during calibration or diagnostic mode when the machine detects weight or resistance in the tub. Calibration needs a completely empty basket to accurately set suspension and balance parameters. Even a small amount of standing water under the wash plate is enough to trigger it. low	low
RL	The RL code is an abbreviation for Remove Load. It triggers specifically during the Clean Washer cycle when the control board sensors detect that there are clothes or items left inside the drum. low	low
SD	The washer's detected an excessive amount of soap suds in the drum. This creates 'sud lock' where the pump can't effectively remove water and the motor can't reach spin speeds due to all those air bubbles sitting in the way. low	low
SD	The SD or SUD code fires when foam level in the tub trips the suds detection logic. Too much foam messes with the pressure sensor readings, so the washer thinks it can't drain safely and pumps and pauses until it burns the suds down on its own. low	low
SD	SD stands for Suds Detection. The control board senses foam levels are too high for the drum to spin safely or drain properly, so it pauses the cycle. Basically the washer's saying it can't see through all the bubbles to know how much actual water is in there. low	low
SENSE-DONE-LID-LOCK	This light pattern means the control board can't confirm where the shift actuator is sitting or whether the lid lock actually engaged. It's basically the machine stuck in limbo between cycles, waiting for a signal that's just not coming back. high	high
SENSING-LIGHT-FLASHING	The sensing light flashes when the main control board can't get a proper response during the load-sensing phase at the start of the cycle. Something's not reporting back correctly, usually the lid lock or shift actuator, and the board won't let the cycle move forward until that circuit checks out. moderate	moderate
SENSING-TO-DONE	Something went wrong during the initial load-sensing phase and the control board bailed on the cycle. It didn't get a speed signal back from the motor, or the lid lock didn't confirm it secured properly, so the software killed the cycle before any water entered the tub. high	high
SHAKING	A Whirlpool washer shaking violently during the spin cycle has an imbalanced load, worn suspension components, or a leveling problem causing excessive vibration. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	The washer isn't broken. Mold and bacteria are colonizing the rubber door boot fold, the detergent dispenser housing, and the drain sump where stagnant water sits between cycles. High-efficiency machines use less water, so detergent residue doesn't fully rinse out, and that sludge feeds the mold. moderate	moderate
SQUEAK-SYMPTOM	When a Whirlpool washer squeaks, something's creating friction where it shouldn't be. That's usually a belt that's worn smooth and slipping, dry suspension rod joints that need grease, or bearings inside the tub assembly that are starting to fail. moderate	moderate
START-BUTTON-NOT-WORKING	The washer's got power and it's getting your button press, but something's stopping the cycle from kicking off. Could be a safety interlock telling it the door isn't secure, could be the Control Lock blocking all input, or the physical button stem snapped internally and the signal's just not reaching the board. moderate	moderate
STOPPED-WASH	The washer finished the fill phase but failed to kick off agitation. Either a safety sensor like the lid lock didn't confirm closed, or the shift actuator couldn't move the transmission into agitate mode, so the board just froze the cycle right there. high	high
STUCK-SENSING	During sensing, the control board runs a short motor rotation to measure load size and detect tub position. When the shift actuator can't confirm where the tub is mechanically, the board freezes the cycle right there. It's protecting itself from running in the wrong mode and damaging the transmission or splutch assembly underneath. moderate	moderate
SUD	The SUD or SD code means your washer's detected way too many soap bubbles in the drum. The foam's so thick the pump can't grab actual water to drain it, and all that airy fluff creates drag on the spinning basket, which is why the machine won't ramp up to high spin speed. low	low
SUD	The SUD or SD code fires when the control board detects foam levels high enough to prevent safe spinning and draining. Basically there's so much air in the drum from all those bubbles that the pump can't get traction on actual water. The machine knows it can't spin safely, so it stops and waits. low	low
SUD	SUD or SD means the control board detected too much foam in the drum. The pressure sensor can't tell foam from water, so when suds fill the tub, it reads a high water level that just won't drop during draining. Machine pauses to protect the motor. low	low
SUD	The SUD or Sd code means the control board detected a suds lock condition. There's so much foam in the drum that the pressure switch can't read the actual water level accurately. The machine won't drain or spin correctly because it's basically trying to pump foam instead of water, so it pauses and waits for things to settle down. low	low
Sd	The control board has detected an excessive amount of soap suds in the tub, or it senses enough mechanical drag during the spin cycle to mimic the resistance caused by heavy foam. low	low
TOP-LOAD-HUB	F7E1 fires when the motor control board detects the drive motor spinning at the wrong speed or not at all. F5E3 means the lid lock didn't confirm it's latched within the expected window. 5D means the board detected excessive suds in the tub and paused the cycle to let the foam break down before continuing. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General troubleshooting for the most frequent mechanical and electronic failures found in the Whirlpool Cabrio top-load washer platform. moderate	moderate
UL	UL stands for Unbalanced Load. The control board monitors how much the tub is swinging during the spin cycle, and when it detects the basket oscillating outside its normal range, it shuts down the spin before the tub can slam into the cabinet and wreck your bearings. moderate	moderate
WASH-COMPLETE	The washer hit a logic error or a component check failed during the sensing phase, so the control board killed the program early and jumped straight to end-of-cycle status. It's basically the machine saying 'something's wrong, I quit' before it even gets started. moderate	moderate
WASH-DIAG-MODE	When diagnostic mode activates, the control board stops running normal cycle logic and opens up a service interface. You can scroll through stored fault history and manually fire individual components like the pump, motor, and water valves to test them one at a time without waiting through a full cycle. low	low
WASH-DRAIN-FAIL	The washer can't push water out of the tub during the drain or spin phase. Something's either blocking the pump physically, the motor windings have burned out, or the control board isn't sending the signal to run the pump at all. high	high
WASH-RESET-PROCEDURE	When this fires, the control board has locked itself into a fault state or software loop and needs a full memory dump to recover. Basically the brain of the washer got confused, either by a power hiccup, a sensor reading it didn't expect, or an interrupted cycle, and it won't move forward until you force it to restart clean. low	low
WONT-START	A Whirlpool washer that has power but won't start a cycle has a lid lock, control board, or wiring issue preventing the wash cycle from initiating. This is different from 'won't turn on' (no power at all). moderate	moderate
dL	The dL error code stands for Door Lock failure. It occurs when the main control board attempts to lock the door or lid six consecutive times but fails to receive the lock-confirmation signal from the switch. moderate	moderate
dL	dL stands for Door Lock failure. The control board sends a signal to engage the lid lock solenoid, but the internal switch inside the lock assembly never confirms the bolt actually engaged. After six failed attempts in a row, the board throws the fault code and kills power to the motor. moderate	moderate
dU	The dU error code stands for Door Unlock failure. It occurs when the main control board attempts to unlock the door at the end of a cycle or during a pause but fails to receive the electrical signal confirming the latch has successfully opened. moderate	moderate
f21	The washer control board has detected a long drain condition, meaning the water level has not dropped sufficiently within 8 minutes of the pump starting. This is a safety halt to prevent the motor from burning out or the machine from overflowing. moderate	moderate
f51 whirlpool washer	The F51 error means the control board lost communication with the Rotor Position Sensor and can't figure out what the drum's doing. So it just stops the cycle rather than risk spinning a motor it can't track. high	high
sd	The sd code fires when the control board detects unusual drag on the motor during spin or a slow drain rate, and it reads those conditions as excessive suds in the tub. The machine then automatically extends the rinse cycle to try to dissolve the foam before continuing. low	low
uL	The control board watches how the motor pulls during spin. When the tub's lopsided, motor current goes erratic and the board throws uL to stop everything before the drum can bang against the cabinet hard enough to crack something or walk the machine across the floor. moderate	moderate
whirlpool duet f21	The washer's control board has detected that the water is not draining fast enough. Specifically, the water level has not dropped sufficiently within an eight-minute window, causing the machine to pause for safety. moderate	moderate

Waterheater

View all 3 codes →

Code	Meaning	Severity
BRINE-DRAW-FAIL	During regeneration, water rushing through the venturi nozzle creates a vacuum that pulls brine from the salt tank into the resin tank. When something blocks or breaks that suction, the brine draw phase completes on the timer but no salt water actually moves. moderate	moderate
SOFTENER-TS-GUIDE	This guide covers the most common mechanical and electronic failures in Whirlpool residential water softeners. We're talking salt management issues, brine flow problems, and motor synchronization failures. Basically everything that causes your water to stay hard even though the machine looks like it's working fine. moderate	moderate
WS-TROUBLE	Your softener's failing to exchange calcium and magnesium ions with sodium in the resin bed. Usually means the brine solution isn't getting pulled into the resin tank during regeneration. Could be mechanical, could be a maintenance issue, but the resin itself is probably fine unless you've been ignoring this for a couple of years. moderate	moderate