Whirlpool Oven Error Codes: Complete F and E Code Guide
Quick Answer
Whirlpool ovens use a two-part fault code system: the F number identifies the function that failed, and the E number identifies the specific component within that function. F2 on a Whirlpool is a genuine runaway-heat safety shutoff (different from GE where F2 is commonly a sensor short).
These codes usually show up right after a self-clean cycle or halfway through Thanksgiving dinner when the oven's been pushed hard for hours. And honestly, it looks worse than it usually is. Nine times out of ten it's the RTD probe or the door latch, not the control board. I've ordered the wrong part on this one before, so check your resistance readings before you buy anything.
WhirlpoolOven
About These Whirlpool Oven Error Codes
OK so here's the deal with Whirlpool's F and E code system. The F number tells you which system is having a bad day, and the E number narrows it down to the specific part. Most of what I see in the field is sensor drift or a locked door latch after self-clean. The control board's actually pretty reliable on these. Don't replace it until you've ruled out everything cheaper.
Most Common Error Codes
RTD temperature sensor (probe) open or out of range40%
Self-clean door latch mechanical failure24%
Control board EEPROM corruption or memory fault14%
Runaway temperature event triggering safety shutoff12%
Keypad overlay membrane stuck key10%
Symptoms You May Notice
The display is showing a code and the oven just quit mid-bake, usually right around the 350-400 degree mark during preheat.
Self-clean finished but the door won't unlock and it's been over an hour with the lock icon still lit.
Your oven is running way hotter or cooler than whatever temperature you set, like you dial in 350 and everything's burning because it's actually running at 425.
Keypad is completely dead, nothing responds, and F8 E0 is just sitting on the display.
The code comes and goes, works fine for a week, then throws the same error again right when the oven gets up to temperature.
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
RTD Temperature SensorW11045714 · $18–$35
W11045714
$18 – $35
Door Latch AssemblyW10130902 · $45–$85
W10130902
$45 – $85
Control BoardW10843955 · $150–$280
W10843955
$150 – $280
Keypad / Touchpad OverlayW10179146 · $55–$95
W10179146
$55 – $95
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I clear an error code on a Whirlpool oven?
Pressing Cancel is just a temporary silence. To actually reset the processor, you need to kill power at the breaker. I usually leave it off for a few minutes to let the capacitors on the control board fully discharge. If the code comes back the second the clock lights up, your problem is a permanent hardware fault, not a temporary glitch. A code that only shows up after the oven runs for 20 minutes is a different story, that's usually the RTD sensor drifting when it gets hot.
What is the difference between F and E codes on a Whirlpool oven?
Think of the F code as the 'what' and the E code as the 'where.' F3 tells you there's a temperature sensing problem. The E number then tells you whether it's the main RTD sensor, a secondary thermal fuse, or a wiring issue. This dual-code system is actually really useful once you know how to read it, because it tells me exactly which part to pull out of my truck before I even walk in the door. Cross-reference both numbers together, never just the F digit alone.
Why does my Whirlpool oven show an error code only during self-clean?
Self-clean is the hardest thing an oven ever does. It runs at 900 degrees for 2-4 hours, which is way outside normal cooking temperatures, and it pushes every single component to its thermal limit. If your RTD sensor or door latch is slightly worn, that extreme heat soak will push it over the edge. It's very common to see F3 or F9 codes during the last hour of a clean cycle. Components that work fine for years at 400 degrees just can't handle that kind of sustained extreme heat.
Can I still use my oven if it's showing an F3 error code?
No, don't use it. An F3 means the control board can't read the temperature sensor, so it has no idea how hot the oven actually is. I've seen F3 ovens where the display said 350 but the actual cavity was over 500 degrees. That's a fire hazard and a food safety issue. The fix is usually a $25-40 RTD probe that takes about 20 minutes to swap out. It's not a big deal repair, so just get it done before you use the oven again.
How much does it cost to fix a Whirlpool oven error code?
Depends entirely on what's broken. An RTD sensor is $20-40 and most people can swap it themselves in under 30 minutes. A door latch assembly runs $45-90. A membrane keypad overlay is usually $30-60. The control board is where it gets painful, typically $150-350 for the part alone, plus $100-200 for labor if you're not doing it yourself. General rule I give everyone: if the repair is going to cost more than half the price of a new range, start shopping for a replacement instead.