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ErrBase

Whirlpool Oven Error Codes

All Whirlpool oven error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

48 error codes

CodeMeaning
BROKEN-KNOBSThe knob's plastic D-shaped insert has stripped or cracked, so it's spinning freely around the metal switch shaft instead of turning it. Basically the plastic and the shaft aren't connecting anymore. Sometimes a small metal tension clip is just missing, which causes the exact same spinning problem.
moderateeasy
BURNER-NO-HEATThe heating circuit is broken somewhere between the control board and the actual heat source, whether that's an electric element or a gas igniter and valve combo. The board thinks it's running a bake cycle but the heat never shows up because the circuit is open.
highintermediate
BURNER-NOT-HEATINGOne or more of the surface heating elements on your Whirlpool range has stopped functioning, heats inconsistently, or has visible physical damage preventing safe operation.
moderateeasy
BURNER-NOT-WORKINGOne or more surface heating elements on your Whirlpool electric range aren't heating even though the controls are on, meaning there's a break somewhere in that circuit, whether it's the element itself, the socket block, the switch behind the knob, or the wiring running behind the panel.
moderateeasy
BURNER-REPLACEThe surface heating element on your Whirlpool range has failed because the internal filament snapped or the metal prongs at the terminal block are making a bad connection. The coil can't complete the circuit, so there's no heat.
moderatebeginner
BURNER-WONT-HEATSomething broke the electrical path between your control switch and the heating coil. Could be the coil cracked, the connection point melted from arcing, or the infinite switch's internal contacts failed and won't close anymore. On gas models, it's usually a blocked port or a dead spark module cutting off ignition.
moderateintermediate
CLICKING-FIXThe oven's control board uses mechanical relays that physically click open and closed to send power to the heating elements. When those relays start cycling rapidly or randomly, it usually means the contacts inside are wearing out, or the board's getting bad data from the temperature sensor and can't decide what to do.
moderateintermediate
CLICKING-SYMPTOMYour oven's ignition or relay circuit isn't completing its cycle and stopping. It keeps firing. On gas models, the spark module's stuck sending voltage to the igniters. On electric models, a relay's chattering between open and closed. Something's telling the oven to keep trying when it should've quit.
highintermediate
CRACKED-GLASSThe ceramic glass cooking surface has cracked, chipped, or pitted so badly that it can't be used safely. Once the glass is breached, liquids can run through to the 240-volt elements below. There's no patching it. The whole panel has to come out.
highintermediate
DOOR-STUCKThe oven's motorized door lock engages before self-clean starts and won't retract until the internal temperature sensor confirms the cavity's dropped below roughly 150°F. The board holds the door hostage until it gets that all-clear signal. When it gets stuck, something in that communication chain or the mechanical latch itself broke down.
moderateintermediate
E1The control board's detecting a permanent closed circuit somewhere in the user interface. Either a button's registering as constantly pressed, or the sensor wiring's shorted to the chassis. The board can't figure out what you're actually asking it to do, so it locks out and throws the code.
highintermediate
E2 F3E2 F3 is an alternate display format of the F3 E2 code on some Whirlpool models, the control board displays the E sub-code before the F code. It indicates the secondary temperature sensor circuit has a wiring short or the thermistor's reading outside its acceptable range.
highintermediate
F1The F1 code indicates a primary control failure, typically involving the Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. It signifies that the board has detected a runaway temperature condition or an internal logic error that prevents it from safely monitoring the oven.
criticalintermediate
F1 E0F1 E0 means the control board tried to verify its stored EEPROM data and failed the checksum. The E0 specifically tags this as a memory integrity failure. Basically the oven's brain wrote down its settings, went back to check them, and the math didn't match. So it shuts everything down and won't run anything until that gets resolved.
highintermediate
F1 E1F1 E1 means the main control board detected a failure in its internal communication bus, or it can't exchange data with a secondary board. On double oven models this usually means the two boards stopped talking to each other. On single ovens it's typically an internal board failure or a grounded component feeding electrical noise back into the control circuit.
moderateintermediate
F10F10 means the oven's control board clocked the temperature blowing past safe limits, usually somewhere above 590-600°F during a normal bake cycle. The board detects this through resistance changes in the sensor probe, and when those numbers stop making sense, it kills power and throws the code.
highintermediate
F1E2F1E2 means the main control board's analog-to-digital converter has either failed or the board can't sync its internal software to the oven's hardware config. Think of it like your computer suddenly not recognizing its own keyboard. The board's there, the oven's there, but they stopped talking to each other.
highintermediate
F2F2 means the control board got a temperature reading that pushed past the oven's safety ceiling, usually somewhere around 590-615°F depending on the model. Either the temp sensor sent a bad signal saying it's hotter than it really is, or the oven actually is that hot because the heat won't shut off.
highintermediate
F2F2 on a Whirlpool oven is a genuine runaway-heat safety shutoff - the oven temperature exceeded a safe threshold (typically 590 degrees F in bake mode or 990 degrees F in broil mode) and the board shut the oven down to prevent damage or fire. This is different from many other brands where F2 is a sensor short.
highintermediate
F2 E0F2 E0 means the Cancel or Off key on your oven's keypad is registering as stuck closed, like someone's holding it down non-stop. The control board sees a continuous signal on that input circuit and throws this fault to keep the oven from ignoring every command you try to give it.
moderateintermediate
F2 E1F2 E1 indicates the Off key specifically (as distinct from the Cancel key addressed by F2 E0) is registering as continuously pressed on the oven keypad. The board detects a persistent input on the off-key circuit, which prevents normal mode transitions.
moderateintermediate
F2 E6F2E6 on a Whirlpool oven specifically identifies the Cancel key circuit as shorted on the keypad membrane.
moderateintermediate
F3F3 on older Whirlpool oven models (single-digit code display) indicates the oven temperature sensor has either opened (broken circuit) or shorted. This is functionally identical to F3 E0 on newer models with alphanumeric displays - the oven cannot read temperature and shuts down.
highbeginner
F3 E0F3 E0 means the main oven cavity RTD sensor is reading either open circuit (meter shows OL, wire's snapped inside the probe) or short circuit (resistance near zero ohms). The board can't calculate oven temperature from either reading, so it kills all heating functions immediately.
highbeginner
F5F5 means the oven's control board can't confirm the door latch position. The switches inside the latch assembly are supposed to send a 'locked' or 'unlocked' signal back to the board, and right now it's getting nothing useful.
highintermediate
F5 E1F5 E1 means the door latch system failed to complete its locking sequence when the self-clean cycle was initiated. The board commanded the latch motor to lock, but the latch position switch did not confirm the locked state within the expected timeframe.
moderateintermediate
F6 E1F6 E1 fires when the RTD temperature sensor sends a value the control board can't make sense of during its startup self-check. The sensor's either reading too high, too low, or going erratic. Sometimes it's a genuinely bad sensor, but honestly it's just as often a loose connection at the sensor harness that's causing the bad reading.
highintermediate
F6 E4F6E4 means the control board detected current leaking from the heating element circuit to the metal chassis of the oven. The internal coil failed in a way that lets electricity jump to the frame instead of completing its normal circuit through the element.
highintermediate
F8 E0F8 E0 means the control board has detected a stuck key on the touchpad keypad overlay. One or more membrane switch contacts are continuously closed - as if a button is being held down indefinitely - which prevents normal input processing.
moderateintermediate
F9F9 on older Whirlpool oven models with single-digit code displays means the door latch system has faulted. Either the latch won't engage for self-clean, won't release after self-clean, or the latch position switch isn't confirming the expected latch state to the control board.
highintermediate
F9 E0F9 E0 means the self-clean door latch will not retract to the unlocked position after a self-clean cycle completes. The oven is locked and the door cannot be opened. The latch motor attempted to release but the board did not confirm the latch reached the open position.
highintermediate
GLASS-TOP-CRACKEDThe ceramic glass cooktop surface is physically damaged, cracked, or shattered, posing a safety hazard and potential electrical risk.
highintermediate
GLASSTOP-ELEMENTThe flat resistive ribbon coiled inside the element housing under your glass has either burned through completely, or the internal thermal limiter tripped for good. The glass stays cold but your control panel acts like everything's fine because the switch is still sending signal normally.
highintermediate
HUBWhen the control board detects something outside its acceptable range, it throws a two-part code on the display. F tells you the function that failed, like temperature sensing or door locking. E tells you the specific component within that function. Together they're basically the board pointing a finger at the exact problem so you know where to start.
highintermediate
IGNITION-FAILUREThe burner covers, also known as drip pans or burner caps, are either misaligned, excessively dirty, or rusted through. This prevents the burner from igniting properly or causes uneven flame distribution by blocking the gas ports or fouling the spark electrode.
moderateeasy
IGNITION-FAILUREThe oven's ignition sequence didn't complete. Either the glow igniter failed to reach operating temperature, it's not drawing enough amperage to open the gas safety valve, or on the cooktop side the spark module stopped sending pulses to the electrodes.
highintermediate
KNOB-BROKENThe control knob has lost its physical connection to the burner valve or infinite switch, usually due to a failure of the internal plastic D-stem or the metal reinforcement clip.
moderateeasy
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's heating circuit isn't completing. Either the element that generates heat has physically failed, the igniter can't draw enough current to open the gas valve, or a safety component like the thermal fuse has blown and cut all power to the heating system to prevent a fire.
moderateintermediate
OVEN-NOT-WORKINGThe oven's either totally dead with no display at all, or it's powering on normally but refusing to heat. Either way, something's broken the circuit between your wall power and the heating elements, whether that's a fuse, a failed element, or the control board itself.
highintermediate
PFPF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming power dropped out, either completely or enough to register as a real interruption. Doesn't matter if it was a full blackout or a two-second dip. The board saw the lights go out and flagged it.
lowbeginner
SMOKINGYour oven's producing visible smoke because either manufacturing residue is burning off the heating elements during initial break-in, carbonized food debris is igniting on the element shield under the floor panel, or the bake and broil element's internal nichrome wire is shorting through a crack in its outer metal casing and arcing.
moderateintermediate
SURFACE-DAMAGEThis refers to physical degradation of the cooktop surface, including deep scratches, chemical pitting, or permanent stains that cannot be removed through standard cleaning methods.
loweasy
UNEVEN-HEATThe oven's heating elements or convection system can't maintain a consistent temperature across the entire cooking cavity. Hot air isn't circulating properly, the elements are failing unevenly, or the door seal is letting heat escape, creating temperature zones that vary by 50°F or more from one spot to another.
moderateintermediate
WH-OVEN-NO-HEATYour oven's heating circuit broke down somewhere between the power supply and the actual heat source. Either the bake element can't carry current anymore, the igniter can't draw enough amps to pop the gas valve open, or a safety component like the thermal fuse tripped and cut power to everything downstream.
highintermediate
WHIRLPOOL-OVEN-RESETA Whirlpool oven reset is a forced reboot of the electronic control board that clears stuck software states, unlocks a frozen keypad, and wipes false error codes stored in volatile memory. Basically the board loses power long enough that it can't remember what it was doing wrong.
lowbeginner
WONT-STARTYour Whirlpool oven isn't getting the power or the signal it needs to run. Either the 240V supply's interrupted at the breaker, a safety component like the thermal fuse has cut the circuit to protect the unit, or the control board's lost the ability to send commands to the heating elements.
moderateintermediate
f1e3F1E3 means the main Appliance Control Unit lost communication with the User Interface board, basically the touchpad and display. The ACU's not getting valid signals back from the UI, so it shuts everything down rather than run blind.
moderateintermediate
f3 on whirlpool ovenThe oven control board has detected a failure in the oven temperature sensor (RTD) circuit, indicating the sensor is either open or shorted.
highintermediate