Samsung Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Samsung error codes.

181 error codes across 6 appliance types

Dishwasher

Code	Meaning	Severity
3C	The main control board sent a command to the wash motor controller and got nothing back. No response, no handshake. The motor didn't run, so the board threw the 3C flag to tell you exactly where the breakdown happened. high	high
4C	The dishwasher started a fill cycle but did not detect sufficient water flow within the expected time window. moderate	moderate
4E	The control board sends a signal to open the water inlet valve, then waits to see the water level rise. When it doesn't see that rise fast enough, it throws 4E. Basically the board is saying 'I opened the door but nothing came through.' moderate	moderate
5C	Drain cycle failed. The dishwasher couldn't clear water from the tub within its timeout window. 5C is the older display variant of the SC drain fault and means exactly the same thing internally. moderate	moderate
7E	The control board watches a hall effect sensor to track where that reflector bar is at all times. When the bar stops moving or the sensor loses the magnet signal entirely, the board throws a 7E and kills the cycle. Basically the machine is saying it doesn't know where its spray arm is and it won't run blind. moderate	moderate
9E	The water level sensor circuit reported an out-of-range value. The control board cannot confirm correct water level during the fill cycle. moderate	moderate
BEEPING	Samsung dishwashers beep to communicate cycle status, error conditions, and door alerts. Unlike older dishwashers with single-tone buzzers, Samsung models use a specific number of beeps combined with a display code to signal different fault conditions. The beep count and pattern on Samsung DW80R and DW80K series is part of the fault communication system. moderate	moderate
DIAG-MODE	Samsung dishwasher diagnostic mode is a built-in service test that cycles through each major component - water fill, wash pump, drain pump, heater, and dispenser - in sequence to isolate which system is causing a fault. On Samsung DW80R series and most post-2016 Samsung dishwashers, diagnostic mode is accessed by holding the Start button for 5 seconds with the door closed. low	low
DRAIN-ISSUES	Water remains in the tub after the cycle completes, or the dishwasher drains slowly. May or may not be accompanied by a SC, 5C, or SE error code. moderate	moderate
ERROR-CODES	When the dishwasher's control board detects a sensor reading that falls outside normal operating range, it throws a two-character code and halts the cycle. The code tells you which system failed: water supply, drainage, motor, leak detection, or overflow protection. moderate	moderate
HC	HC stands for High temperature Caution. The control board's getting a signal that water temp exceeded safe limits, or the heater kept running when it should've stopped. Something in the heating loop is either reading wrong or actually staying energized too long. Basically the dishwasher's safety circuit kicked in before anything melted. high	high
HEAVY-LIGHT-BLINKING	The moisture or float sensor in the base tray has closed its circuit and signaled the main control board that water is present below the tub. The board kills the wash program, runs the drain pump continuously, and blinks the Heavy light to flag the active leak condition. high	high
HOW-TO-START	This is a how-to guide for starting a Samsung dishwasher correctly, covering normal start, delay start, and what to do when the machine powers on but won't actually kick off a wash. Not really an error code situation, just a common stumbling block people hit with these machines. low	low
HUB	Hub page covering all Samsung dishwasher error codes with causes, fixes, and diagnostic steps. moderate	moderate
LC	Water or moisture detected in the base pan beneath the dishwasher tub. The leak sensor DD81-01399A has been activated. critical	critical
LE	The wash motor has locked up, stalled, or lost communication. The control board detected the motor did not reach operating speed. high	high
LEAKING	Your Samsung dishwasher's letting water escape somewhere it shouldn't, through a compromised seal, a cracked component, or a loose connection. On models with a base tray sensor, that tray fills up with leaked water and trips the LC error code. Either way, water's getting out of the wash cavity and it's not going back in. moderate	moderate
LIGHTS-FLASH	The indicator lights on the control panel are flashing. Which lights are blinking, and how many, tells you whether this is an error state, a paused cycle, or just a control board hiccup that needs a reboot. For display-less models, the blink count is actually the error code number. moderate	moderate
NO-START	The control board isn't getting the green light it needs to kick off a wash cycle. That's usually because the door switch hasn't closed the circuit, Child Lock's blocking all commands, or there's no power making it through the junction box or thermal fuse. moderate	moderate
NO-WATER	The control board's flow meter counted water volume during the fill cycle and didn't hit the minimum threshold. Samsung's dishwashers need roughly 1.2 liters in the first four minutes. If that doesn't happen, the machine cuts the cycle to protect the heating element from firing in a dry tub. high	high
NOISE	Your dishwasher is producing abnormal sounds because something mechanical is obstructed or failing. Usually it's debris caught in the drain pump, a worn spray arm bearing mount, or scale buildup on the circulation impeller. The machine's telling you something's off before it actually breaks down completely. moderate	moderate
NOT-CLEANING	The dishwasher's wash system isn't getting water where it needs to go, either because something's blocked, the pump's not spinning right, or water isn't filling to the correct level. Samsung's WaterWall and standard rotating-arm models fail in slightly different ways, so which model you have actually matters here. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRAINING	The dishwasher tried to pump water out at the end of a cycle and couldn't do it. Either something's physically blocking the drain path, the pump motor's not spinning, or the drain hose path has a restriction. Water's just sitting there in the tub with nowhere to go. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRYING	The dishwasher finished its wash cycle but couldn't complete the drying phase because something in the drying system failed or got bypassed. Could be a dead heating element, a stuck vent that won't open to exhaust steam, a failed wax motor, or just an empty rinse aid dispenser that nobody's refilled in months. moderate	moderate
NOT-FILLING	4C fires when the control board opens the inlet valve but doesn't detect water in the tub within a set time window. Basically the machine waited, got nothing or a trickle, and gave up. The board's watching a pressure sensor or float switch, and if the water level doesn't rise fast enough, it throws the code and locks out. moderate	moderate
NOT-WASHING	Samsung dishwashers that fill but don't wash have either a dead circulation pump, a jammed WaterWall reflector (DW80R series only), or a control board that's not activating the pump motor. The DW80R WaterWall uses a linear reflector sweeping side to side instead of spinning spray arms, and it'll jam on tall items or the small drive motor burns out. high	high
OC	The water level inside the tub has risen above the safe maximum. The float switch or overflow sensor triggered a shutdown. critical	critical
OE	Water level reached the overflow threshold. The overflow float or level sensor triggered an emergency shutdown. critical	critical
PC	The pressure switch or water level pressure sensor circuit is reporting an abnormal reading. The control board cannot determine water level accurately. moderate	moderate
RESET	This is the procedure for rebooting Samsung's control board when it gets stuck mid-cycle. The board runs firmware that can freeze after power events and needs a full memory flush to recover and re-evaluate every connected sensor. low	low
SC	The control board timed the drain cycle and the water level sensor never confirmed the tub emptied. Basically the pump ran, or tried to, but water didn't exit the sump fast enough to satisfy the timeout. That's either a blocked path, a dead pump, or a hose problem. moderate	moderate
SE	Drain cycle failed. SE is the older firmware equivalent of SC and 5C - all three codes indicate the same drain pump or blockage fault. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	When your Samsung dishwasher smells bad, it means organic material, basically food, grease, and soap scum, is decomposing somewhere inside the machine. It's not a sensor fault or a mechanical failure. It's biology. Bacteria and mold are actively breaking down residue in spots the wash cycle can't reach. moderate	moderate
SOAP-DISPENSER	When your Samsung dishwasher's dispenser fails to fire, the solenoid-actuated spring latch didn't release at the right point in the cycle. That latch holds the door shut until the control board sends a signal during the main wash. If the solenoid can't pull the pin, or the pin's gummed up with dried detergent, that door stays shut and your dishes spin in plain water the whole time. moderate	moderate
STOPS-1MIN	Your Samsung ran its startup safety checklist and something didn't pass. The board fires off three checks in the first 90 seconds: door latch closed, base pan dry, water filling. One of those answers came back wrong, so the board killed power before anything bad could happen. Pretty aggressive compared to other brands, but it's what Samsung programmed into these units. high	high
TROUBLESHOOT	Comprehensive troubleshooting guide covering the most common Samsung dishwasher problems, symptoms, and repair paths. moderate	moderate
TURNS-ON-ITSELF	A Samsung dishwasher that powers on without anyone touching it has a control board relay that's stuck closed, a touchpad membrane sending phantom key presses, or a Delay Start that got bumped accidentally. On Wi-Fi models, a SmartThings schedule or remote app command is another common culprit that's easy to miss. moderate	moderate
UNLOCK	How to deactivate Samsung dishwasher child lock (CL), which disables all buttons including Power and Start. low	low
WONT-START	The dishwasher has power and the display responds, but pressing Start doesn't trigger a wash cycle. The board's getting power but it's not sending the go signal to the motor or water inlet valve. moderate	moderate
WONT-TURN-OFF	The dishwasher keeps running, filling with water, or won't respond to the Power button to shut down. Either the control board's stuck in an active cycle state and doesn't know it should stop, or something mechanical like the inlet valve has failed and is physically letting water in regardless of what the board's telling it. moderate	moderate
WONT-TURN-ON	The dishwasher does not respond when the Power button is pressed. No display, no lights, no sounds. moderate	moderate

Dryer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
3C	The drum motor failed to start or stalled during operation. The control board detected that the motor is not running at the expected speed or drew excessive current. high	high
3C-FIX	The 3C code fires when the motor control circuit detects excessive current draw during startup. The motor's trying to spin the drum but something's fighting it physically, so the current spikes. The board sees that spike and shuts everything down before the motor windings overheat and burn out. high	high
9C1	The motor control or main control board detected that the incoming power frequency is outside the 60 Hz range it expects. Could be a real problem with your power source, or the board's own frequency-sensing circuit is failing and misreading perfectly normal grid power as out of spec. high	high
CL	CL is a cycle-count maintenance reminder on older Samsung dryers. The board tracked how many runs you've done since the last reset, hit its limit, and it's telling you to clean the filter. Not a fault code. Dryer's still running fine. low	low
CL9	CL9 is a maintenance reminder to clean the lint filter. It activates after a set number of drying cycles and is not a fault code. The dryer continues operating normally. low	low
CL9-FIX	The cooling indicator fires when Samsung's control board intentionally cuts power to the heating element near cycle end. The drum keeps spinning to tumble clothes with room-temp air, letting everything cool down gradually. Should last about 10 minutes. If it's going longer than that, something's off with the board or the sensors. low	low
DC	The control board is monitoring the door switch circuit and it's reading open. Either the latch isn't pushing the switch button far enough to make contact, or the switch itself died. The drum won't spin and the heater definitely won't fire until that circuit reads closed. moderate	moderate
DE	The control board detected that the door is open or the door switch failed to confirm the door is latched. DE is displayed on certain Samsung dryer models where other models display DC for the same condition. moderate	moderate
DRUM-STUCK	The drum's powered by a long rubber belt that loops around the drum's outside edge, over an idler pulley for tension, and down to the motor shaft. When that belt snaps or the idler pulley seizes up, the motor just spins free while the drum sits perfectly still. That's basically all this is. high	high
Et	The Et error code on a Samsung dryer indicates a communication error with the EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) on the main control board. This means the dryer's internal computer is unable to read or write the necessary data to operate the machine. high	high
FE	The control board detected a power supply frequency deviation from the required 60 Hz standard. FE is functionally identical to the 9C1 code and appears on certain Samsung dryer models. high	high
H01	The control board detected an open circuit in the heating element circuit. The element is broken, a connecting wire has burned through, or a blown thermal fuse in the element assembly has created an open. high	high
HC	The dryer detected air temperature above the safe operating threshold. The thermal cutoff tripped or the cycling thermostat failed, shutting the heating system down to prevent a fire. high	high
HE	The dryer detected a heating system fault. HE appears on certain Samsung dryer models and firmware versions where other models display HC for the same condition. high	high
HUB	Hub page covering all Samsung dryer fault codes. When your dryer detects something out of range, whether it's door position, exhaust temp, motor current, or power frequency, it throws one of these alphanumeric codes on the display so you know where to start looking. low	low
HUB-CODES	These codes are Samsung's way of flagging a specific failed component or condition detected by the control board. Each prefix maps to a subsystem: tE is the thermistor circuit, HE is the heating circuit, dE is the door latch circuit, and bE means a keypad input is stuck or shorted. moderate	moderate
LINT-CLEAN	When Samsung flags a lint or airflow problem, it means the thermistor inside the exhaust duct is seeing temperatures climb way faster than they should. That's the machine telling you air isn't moving through the system fast enough to carry heat out of the drum. high	high
NOISE	Your Samsung dryer's noise is a mechanical symptom, not a digital error. Something inside the drum assembly is physically worn, loose, or debris-clogged. The four most common culprits are the drum support rollers, the idler pulley, the drive belt, and the blower wheel. Usually one of these four things. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The dryer drum rotates normally but produces no heat. This is a symptom, not a specific error code. It indicates a failure in the heating circuit: electric element, thermal fuse, thermostat, or gas components. high	high
NOT-SPINNING	The drum isn't rotating even though the motor is running, or the motor isn't starting at all. Either the mechanical drive system (belt, idler pulley, rollers) has failed so the drum can't turn, or the electrical circuit to the motor isn't completing because of a dead door switch or motor issue. moderate	moderate
NOT-TURNING-OFF	The dryer's moisture sensors can't confirm the load is dry, so the control board keeps the motor running indefinitely. Or a relay on the main control board has welded shut from heat cycling and is sending continuous power to the motor regardless of what the timer or sensor logic says. moderate	moderate
RESET	A reset clears the Samsung control board's memory, dumps stored fault codes, and forces a fresh boot. Think of it like force-restarting a frozen phone. It's the first move after any error code appears and the first thing you do after finishing any repair. low	low
SMELLS	When your Samsung dryer throws a burning smell, something hot is making contact with something it shouldn't. Usually that's lint, a worn drive belt degrading near the drum rollers, or restricted airflow forcing the heating element to run hotter and longer than it's designed to. moderate	moderate
SMELLS-BURNING	The dryer's heating element, motor, or moving components are generating excessive heat due to friction, obstruction, or contact with lint or debris that's packed itself into the cabinet around the drum and heating assembly over time. moderate	moderate
TAKING-LONG	The dryer's control board is detecting that clothes aren't reaching dry within the expected time window. Usually it's because hot moist air can't escape fast enough, or the moisture sensors are giving a false reading because of residue buildup on the sensor bars. moderate	moderate
TC	The thermal cutout activated because drum temperature reached an extreme level. This is a critical safety shutdown. The dryer will not restart until the fault is diagnosed and cleared. critical	critical
TE	The exhaust thermistor's reading is outside the expected operating range. The control board can't determine drum temperature, so it shuts down heating entirely to prevent damage or a fire. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	Your Samsung dryer's control board is sending the start signal but one or more safety switches, the thermal fuse, door switch, or belt switch, are breaking the circuit before power reaches the drive motor. No current to the motor means no rotation, even if everything else looks normal. moderate	moderate
bE	The bE error stands for Button Error. The main control board detected a button on the user interface that's been held down or stuck for more than 30 consecutive seconds. Basically the board is saying something's pressing it constantly and it doesn't know what to do with that signal. low	low
dC1	The control board sent a signal to the door switch and got nothing back. Not 'door open,' not 'door closed,' just silence. That's the difference with dC1. The communication line itself is broken, so the board can't determine door status at all, which kills the cycle immediately as a safety response. moderate	moderate
dF	The control board polls the door switch the whole time a cycle is running. When that circuit stays open, meaning the switch never closes even though you shut the door, the board logs dF and cuts power to the drive motor. It won't spin until it sees that closed-circuit signal. moderate	moderate
dO	The dO code fires when the control board doesn't see the closed-circuit signal from the door latch switch during a cycle. The board expects that switch to complete a circuit when you shut the door. No signal means no drum, no heat, nothing. Hard stop by design. moderate	moderate

Microwave

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Code	Meaning	Severity
5E	The control board detected a button signal that's been active for more than 30 seconds straight. That's its threshold for deciding something's stuck or shorted. Could be a physical key that won't spring back up, or two conductive layers inside the membrane film touching when they shouldn't be. moderate	moderate
C-10	C-10 on a Samsung microwave indicates a communication fault between the main control board and the smart/Wi-Fi module. This error only appears on Samsung Smart microwaves with SmartThings connectivity. low	low
HUB	Samsung microwave ovens display error codes including SE (stuck key), C-10 (communication fault on smart models), 5E (button stuck variant), and descriptive errors. Samsung microwaves use fewer codes than washers or dishwashers. moderate	moderate
SE	The SE code (often read as 5E) indicates a 'Key Short' error. The control board senses that a button is being continuously pressed for more than 60 seconds, usually due to moisture or a physical failure in the touchpad. high	high

Oven

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Code	Meaning	Severity
C-20	C-20 means the control board is reading near-zero resistance from the oven temperature sensor, which is physically impossible under normal conditions. Basically the sensor circuit shorted, so the board can't trust any temperature data and locks the oven down completely. It's a safety lockout, not a glitch. high	high
C-21	Samsung C-21 means the NTC temperature probe resistance is outside the acceptable range, either reading too high (open circuit) or too low (basically a short). The control board can't establish a valid temperature reading and shuts the oven down as a safety measure. high	high
C-24	Samsung oven C-24 indicates a fault in the lower oven temperature sensor circuit on dual-oven models equipped with the FlexDuo divider system. C-24 is specific to Samsung FlexDuo ranges (NE59M6850SS, NE63T8911SS) - it appears only when the FlexDuo divider panel is installed, creating a separate lower oven cavity with its own dedicated NTC sensor. moderate	moderate
C-A2	Samsung's C-A2 fires when the control board can't detect the convection fan spinning at the right speed, or at all. That fan's the one inside the oven cavity that circulates hot air for even baking. No fan movement detected means the board shuts things down before the heating element cooks the electronics. moderate	moderate
C-F2	Samsung oven C-F2 means the oven temperature exceeded the 610 degrees F safety threshold, triggering an automatic shutdown. Unlike GE F2 which almost always points to a stuck relay on the control board, Samsung C-F2 has an additional possible cause specific to Samsung's design: a thermal cutoff fuse placed in series with the bake element circuit that blows at high temperatures and generates the same C-F2 code even when the board is working correctly. high	high
COOKTOP-SCRATCH	Surface abrasions or deep gouges on the glass ceramic cooktop caused by abrasive cleaning, sliding heavy cookware, or metal transfer from pan bottoms. low	low
DOOR-STUCK	During self-clean, Samsung's control board energizes a latch motor to drive a hook bolt into the door frame. The board won't reverse that motor until it sees the cavity temperature drop below around 300°F from the thermal sensor. If that signal never comes, the door stays locked. moderate	moderate
E-08	E-08 means the control board got a temperature reading that's outside safe limits, or it lost communication with the RTD sensor entirely. The board panics and shuts everything down. Could be the sensor sending bad data, or the board misreading good data from a corroded connection. high	high
E-24	The E-24 error code signifies a communication failure between the oven's main control board and the sub-PCB, which is typically the display or touch interface board. high	high
E27	The control board is looking for a specific resistance value from the thermistor probe inside the oven cavity. When it sees an open circuit, a short, or a resistance value that's way outside the normal range, it decides the temperature sensor circuit has failed and throws E27 to prevent a runaway heating situation. high	high
HUB	These C-prefix codes fire when the oven's temperature sensing circuit detects something's off. C-21 and C-24 are sensor faults, C-F2 means temperature runaway or a tripped safety fuse, and C-A2 is the convection fan. Samsung's NTC thermistor reads 10K ohms at room temp and resistance drops as heat rises. That's completely opposite from the RTD probes GE and Frigidaire use. high	high
IGNITER-TROUBLESHOOT	When you're troubleshooting this, you're basically checking if the igniter can draw enough current to heat the bi-metal strip inside the gas valve to the point where it snaps open. It needs to hit around 3.2 amps minimum. Below that, the valve stays shut and no gas gets through, period. high	high
NOT-HEATING	The oven's heating system has failed to produce or maintain temperature. Either the bake element has burned through, the gas igniter can't draw enough current to open the gas valve, or a safety component like the thermal fuse has tripped permanently to protect the appliance from damage. moderate	moderate
RESET-PROCEDURE	Samsung ovens don't have a dedicated reset button. A reset means cutting all power so the control board loses its temporary memory and reboots fresh. You do that through the circuit breaker, or for minor glitches, through a keypad combination that interrupts whatever software loop it's stuck in. low	low
SE	SE means a key on your touchpad is sending a continuous 'pressed' signal to the control board. Could be a physical short in the membrane layers, moisture bridging the contacts, or heat causing the layers to mash together. The board sees a button held down indefinitely and throws the fault. moderate	moderate
SMOKING	Grease, food debris, or factory coating on the heating elements or oven interior is combusting at high temperature. Less commonly, a bake or broil element is arcing and burning through its own metal coating as it starts to fail electrically. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	Samsung's control system lost a key input it needs to run a heating cycle. Could be no power reaching the board, a blown thermal fuse cutting the circuit, a locked control panel, or a relay board that's stopped passing commands to the elements. moderate	moderate

Refrigerator

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Code	Meaning	Severity
	Error code 40E on Samsung refrigerators indicates the freezer evaporator fan motor is not operating within the expected RPM range. The main control board monitors the fan's tachometer signal and triggers this fault when the signal is absent or inconsistent for a defined period. moderate	moderate
22 E	The board is calling for the fridge compartment evaporator fan to run and getting no response. Either the motor's not spinning at the right RPM, it's completely stopped, or there's a break somewhere in the circuit between the board and the motor. high	high
22C	Samsung refrigerator 22C means the freezer evaporator temperature sensor has failed or is reading outside the expected range. The freezer evaporator sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator coil assembly to manage the defrost cycle and compressor operation. A failed sensor causes the control board to lose freezer temperature data, potentially disrupting cooling cycles. high	high
22E	The 22E code fires when the control board detects the refrigerator compartment evaporator fan isn't spinning at the expected RPM. The fan is supposed to pull air across the evaporator coils and push cold air into the fresh food section. When it can't spin, the circuit reads as open and the code triggers. high	high
22E	The 22E code means the control board detected that the evaporator fan in the fresh food section isn't spinning at the right RPM, or it's blocked entirely. The board's basically saying it sent power to that fan and nothing happened. moderate	moderate
22E	The 22E code means the main control board isn't seeing a feedback signal from the evaporator fan motor in the fresh food compartment. That fan's job is to pull cold air off the evaporator coils and push it into your fridge. No fan signal means no cold air moving through that section. high	high
25E	Samsung refrigerator 25E means the fridge compartment defrost sensor has failed or is reading outside its expected range. Think of it as the refrigerator-side version of 39C, which handles the freezer. The 25E sensor specifically monitors the defrost heater in the fresh food section on French door and side-by-side models that have their own separate evaporator coils. high	high
26E	The 26E error code on a Samsung refrigerator indicates a functional error with the water valve or the ice maker water line heater. It signifies that the control board is not receiving the expected electrical feedback from the fill valve circuit. moderate	moderate
2E	Samsung refrigerator 2E means the freezer temperature sensor is shorted. Its resistance dropped to near zero ohms, which the control board reads as an impossibly high temperature in the freezer. Think of it as the opposite of the 22C code. Both are freezer sensor faults, but 2E is a hard short, not a drift or open circuit. high	high
33E	Samsung refrigerator 33E indicates the ice room fan motor inside the ice maker compartment has failed or is not running. On Samsung French door models, a small dedicated fan circulates cold air through the ice maker compartment to keep ice from clumping. When this fan stops, the ice maker compartment temperature rises, ice sticks together, and eventually the compartment freezes completely solid, blocking ice dispensing. moderate	moderate
39C	Samsung 39C means the freezer's defrost sensor has tripped or failed, or the defrost heater itself has given out and ice has started building on the evaporator coils. It's the most common Samsung fridge error code by a mile, because defrost heater failure is basically the single most predictable hardware fault across the whole French door and side-by-side lineup. high	high
40C	Samsung refrigerator 40C indicates a fault in the ice maker room ambient temperature sensor - the sensor that measures the air temperature inside the ice maker compartment rather than the ice tray itself. This is distinct from 40E (which monitors the ice maker cycle sensor) and is specific to Samsung French door and 4-door Flex models that have a dedicated ice maker room with its own climate monitoring. moderate	moderate
40E	Samsung refrigerator 40E indicates a fault in the ice maker temperature sensor circuit. On French door and 4-door Flex models with automatic ice makers, the ice maker uses a dedicated temperature sensor to monitor the ice making tray and ice room temperatures. A failed or out-of-range sensor triggers 40E and interrupts ice maker operation. moderate	moderate
41	Error code 41 on a Samsung refrigerator means the ice room fan motor isn't running. This fan keeps cold air circulating through the ice maker compartment so your ice stays frozen and separate, not one big clump. moderate	moderate
5E	The 5E error (also shows as 5R on some displays, same thing) means the main control board can't get a valid resistance reading from the defrost thermistor sitting on the evaporator coils. Either the sensor failed internally, or the wiring between the sensor and the board has a break or corroded connection. moderate	moderate
88 88	88 88 is basically the display's way of saying it got confused during startup. All the LED segments light up at once because the main control board never finished talking to the display module after a power event. Think of it like your phone freezing on the boot screen. The hardware's fine, the software just needs a kick. moderate	moderate
BEEPING-ALARM	A beeping sound on a Samsung refrigerator is an audible alert indicating the door is ajar, the internal temperature is too high, or a specific component has failed. moderate	moderate
CHILD-LOCK-ACTIVE	The child lock status means the refrigerator's main control board has software-disabled all the external touch buttons and the dispenser paddles. Nothing is actually broken. The board got a signal to lock out the interface and it did its job. A padlock icon on your display is the telltale sign. low	low
DOOR-BIN-REPLACE	This procedure involves identifying the specific model-dependent shelf or bucket located on the interior door liner and swapping a damaged unit for a new OEM replacement to restore storage capacity. low	low
FILTER-RESET	It's a countdown timer, nothing fancier than that. When you hit six months or 300 gallons of water dispensed, whichever comes first, the light flips red. There's no sensor checking actual water quality. The fridge has no idea if you changed the filter yesterday or two years ago. low	low
FREEZING	The fridge compartment is getting more cold air than it needs, either because the motorized damper that controls airflow between freezer and fridge is stuck open, or because the thermistor is sending a bad temperature reading and the board keeps calling for cold. Either way, the refrigerator section drops below 32°F and everything freezes. moderate	moderate
HUB	Samsung refrigerators display numeric and alphanumeric codes on the door panel when a sensor, motor, or defrost component goes outside its expected range. Each code points to a specific circuit in the freezer, fridge, or ice maker. It's the fridge telling you exactly where to look instead of making you guess. high	high
ICE-BUILDUP	The refrigerator's automatic defrost system isn't melting frost off the evaporator coils fast enough, or the meltwater can't drain out properly. Ice accumulates on the coils until airflow from the freezer to the fresh food compartment gets completely blocked, causing fridge temps to rise while the freezer stays normal. moderate	moderate
ICE-MAKER	The ice maker assembly has stopped producing ice. The motor, heater, fill tube, or water inlet valve has broken down somewhere in the freeze-fill-harvest loop, or frost has bridged the gap between the tray and the housing and locked the whole thing up. moderate	moderate
LEAKING	Water is actively escaping from somewhere inside your Samsung fridge's system. That's usually the defrost drain tube freezing up and overflowing, but it can also be the water supply line, inlet valve, filter housing, or the ice maker fill tube. You've got to trace it back to the source before you can fix it. moderate	moderate
NOISE	Your Samsung fridge is producing audible sounds from one or more mechanical systems: the evaporator fan, condenser fan, inverter compressor, or defrost heater. When those sounds shift from a normal operational hum to rattling, chirping, or knocking, it usually means ice interference, a dying motor bearing, or something physically loose in the machine compartment. moderate	moderate
NOT-COOLING	The refrigerator is failing to maintain the set temperature in either the fresh food or freezer compartments, often accompanied by error codes or unusual noises from the evaporator area. high	high
PROBLEMS	General troubleshooting for the most common mechanical and electrical failures in Samsung refrigerators. Could be a sensor, a drain, a fan, or the ice maker assembly. We'll narrow it down step by step. moderate	moderate
SWEATING-CONDENSATION	Sweating on a Samsung refrigerator means moisture is condensing on the exterior cabinet, the center mullion strip between the doors, or the ceiling inside the fresh food section. It happens when cold surfaces hit air that's too humid, usually because a heater's off or warm air is getting in somewhere. moderate	moderate
SWEATING-DOOR	Warm, humid room air is hitting cold door surfaces and dropping moisture on contact. Samsung's door frame heaters are supposed to prevent this by keeping those surfaces just warm enough to stay above the dew point, but when Energy Saver mode is on or a gasket fails, that protection goes away. low	low
WARNING-LIGHTS	The control board detected a fault in a specific component, like a sensor, fan motor, or heater, and it's using the display segments to flag exactly which one. It's basically the fridge's way of pointing at the problem instead of just dying quietly. moderate	moderate
WATER-DISPENSER	Your Samsung dispenser system has three main pieces that can fail: the water inlet valve behind the fridge, the supply line running through the freezer door (which freezes constantly on French door models), and the dispenser switch assembly in the door. When any one of these goes, you get nothing out of that paddle. moderate	moderate

Washer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
3C	The 3C error code on a Samsung washing machine indicates a motor malfunction, specifically a failure in the motor drive circuit or a lack of communication between the main control board and the motor hall sensor. high	high
3C2	The brushless motor stalled and stopped rotating during agitation or spin, with the motor drive detecting a locked or stopped rotor condition. high	high
3E	The motor control circuit detected a rotor lock condition or current overload, meaning the brushless DC motor could not rotate or was drawing excessive current. high	high
4C	The washer opened the inlet valve and waited 60 seconds for the water level sensor to register rising pressure. It didn't. So the machine flagged a supply problem and stopped the cycle before it could damage the pump running dry. moderate	moderate
4C2	The control board is reading water temps at the inlet and saying 'this is way too hot for what you asked me to do.' The thermistor sends a voltage signal that translates to a temperature reading, and when that reading blows past the threshold for your selected cycle, it cuts the fill and throws the code. moderate	moderate
4E	The top-load washer started a fill cycle but the water level sensor detected no flow after the allotted fill time, indicating a water supply problem. moderate	moderate
4E	The washer sent power to the inlet valve to start filling, but the pressure sensor didn't register any change in the tub's water level within the programmed time window. Basically, the machine opened the valve, waited for water, got nothing or not enough, and shut itself down to prevent damage. moderate	moderate
5C	The washer's drain cycle ran but the water level sensor did not detect sufficient pressure drop, indicating a blockage or pump failure. moderate	moderate
5E	The 5E code, which shows up as SE on some displays because the font makes a 5 look like an S, fires when the pump runs but the pressure switch doesn't detect the water level dropping. Basically the machine tried to drain, couldn't do it fast enough, and shut everything down. high	high
5d	The control board detected an over-sudsing condition, basically too many air bubbles in the water for the pump to work through. That foam creates back-pressure that stops the drum from reaching full spin speed and blocks proper draining. low	low
8C	The MEMS (microelectromechanical) vibration sensor circuit failed or reported an out-of-range reading, preventing the spin cycle from operating at full speed. moderate	moderate
8E	The motor drive circuit detected an abnormal frequency reading from the vibration or motor speed sensor, preventing normal spin operation. high	high
9C2	The main control board detected incoming supply voltage dropped below 108V AC, so the motor drive circuit shut itself down to avoid damaging the brushless motor windings and inverter components. high	high
9C8	The inverter motor detected an abnormal power supply frequency. The machine expects 60 Hz AC power but the measured frequency is outside the acceptable range. high	high
AC6	The main control board lost communication with the inverter (motor drive) board, causing the wash cycle to stop. high	high
CL / Child Lock	The CL code means the control panel's been intentionally frozen by a software flag saved in the board's non-volatile memory. Nothing's broken, nothing failed. Samsung's firmware just recognized a specific button combo and locked all input until it gets the unlock signal. low	low
DC	DC stands for 'dynamic control' on most Samsung models. The control board monitors motor resistance or a dedicated vibration sensor, and when the drum starts wobbling past a certain threshold during spin, it cuts power to the motor and throws the code to prevent tub damage. moderate	moderate
DC	The control board measured the drum's rotation and detected too much imbalance. Instead of letting the machine shake at 1000+ RPM with a lopsided load, the safety system cuts the spin and throws DC to protect the bearings and drum assembly from damage. moderate	moderate
DC68-03172B-03	DC68-03172B-03 is the part number for the Samsung Washer User Manual. It's not a fault code and it's not measuring anything inside the machine. People find it on a sticker or in their paperwork when something goes wrong and they start searching for answers. moderate	moderate
DE	The control board detected that the door or lid switch circuit is open when it expects a closed signal. Basically the machine's safety interlock isn't confirming the door is locked, so the control board refuses to start or continue the cycle. moderate	moderate
DOOR-GASKET	The door gasket, often called the bellows, is the thick rubber seal that creates a watertight barrier between the rotating wash drum and the front cabinet of the machine. high	high
DOOR-WONT-OPEN	The control board has detected a condition, either water in the drum, an active spin, or a failed lock signal, that's keeping the door latch physically engaged. The PTC element inside the lock assembly heats up to latch and has to cool down before it can release. If it burns out, it just stays locked. moderate	moderate
E3	The drum could not accelerate to the target spin speed, indicating a jammed drum, worn tub bearing, or motor control fault. moderate	moderate
FRONT-LOAD-HUB	Each code maps to a specific sensor circuit. 4C fires when the water level sensor doesn't detect fill in time. 5C fires when the pressure switch sees standing water after drain time expires. DC fires when the door lock circuit doesn't close. UB fires when the vibration sensor detects dangerous imbalance. LE fires when the leak sensor at the base pan gets wet. moderate	moderate
HE	HE means the control board detected a problem in the heating circuit. Either the water temperature isn't rising fast enough, it shot up too quickly, or the board got an open or short reading from the heater. It's a safety stop, not a death sentence for the machine. high	high
HUB	Hub page covering all Samsung washer error codes, their causes, and repair steps. low	low
LE	The pressure switch uses air trapped in a sealed hose to measure water depth in the tub. When that air signal gets interrupted or the switch can't read it, the board throws LE. It basically means your washer's lost track of how much water's inside. moderate	moderate
LEAKING	A Samsung washer leaking from the bottom, front, or underneath has a failed seal, hose connection, pump gasket, or door boot depending on the model type and leak location. moderate	moderate
MODEL-LOOKUP	This isn't an error code. It's a lookup guide. Your Samsung washer has a specific model string printed on a sticker somewhere on the machine, and that string unlocks the exact parts diagram you need. Without it you're basically guessing at what fits, and with Samsung that guess is usually wrong. low	low
MODEL-SAMSUNG-TOPLOAD-LOOKUP	This guide helps you locate your specific Samsung top-load model number to access accurate parts diagrams and ensure component compatibility. low	low
ND	The washer ran the drain cycle but the water level sensor detected no drop in water level, indicating the drain pump could not remove water from the tub. moderate	moderate
NF	The washer kicked off a fill cycle but didn't detect water entering the drum fast enough. The board just times out and throws the code. Pretty much always a water supply issue, not an electronics problem. moderate	moderate
NOISE	The rear tub bearing supports the drum shaft as it spins at up to 1200 RPM during the spin cycle. When the sealed bearing loses lubrication or the race pits from water intrusion through a worn lip seal, friction generates heat and noise. The spider arm, a three-legged aluminum casting bolted to the rear of the inner drum, transfers rotational torque from the motor shaft to the drum and can crack under metal fatigue or from aggressive out-of-balance loads. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRAINING	Your Samsung detected that water didn't drop to the expected level within the drain time window, so there's still water sitting in the drum when there shouldn't be. Could be a physical blockage, could be a dead pump, could be a hose problem. The machine shuts down and throws the 5E or 5C code to prevent overflow. moderate	moderate
NOT-FILLING	The 4C code fires when the washer's control board doesn't sense water entering the tub within a set time window during the fill phase. The board monitors a pressure switch. When that switch never trips because water didn't come in, the washer throws 4C and stops the cycle to protect the motor. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The washer fills, agitates, and drains fine, but won't kick into spin. Either the VRT sensors detected too much drum movement and killed the spin to protect the machine, or the mechanical connection between motor and drum is broken. Both end the same way: soaking wet clothes sitting in a stopped drum. moderate	moderate
OE	The water level sensor detected the tub filled past the maximum safe level. Could be a stuck-open inlet valve that won't close when told to, or a failed pressure switch that's lying to the control board about how full the tub actually is. critical	critical
RESET	This isn't a traditional error code. It's a guide to all three reset methods Samsung uses across their front-load and top-load washer lineup. Use these to clear fault codes, unstick a frozen control board, and get the machine talking to itself normally again. low	low
SC	The washer ran its drain cycle but the water level sensor didn't detect the expected drop in water level within the allotted time. Basically the board waited, checked the sensor, said 'nope, still full,' and gave up. moderate	moderate
SE	The washer could not drain within the expected time during the drain cycle, indicating a blockage, pump failure, or hose routing problem. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	When your Samsung washer smells bad, mold, mildew, and bacteria are actively growing somewhere inside the drum, boot seal, or drain system. The machine isn't broken, it's dirty. Biofilm builds up from detergent residue and trapped moisture, especially in front-loaders where the door seal creates deep pockets that stay wet between loads. moderate	moderate
SPIN-NOISE	Something mechanical in the drive system is failing. Usually it's the tub bearings losing their grease seal, or the spider arm cracking, or a foreign object hitting the pump at high RPM. The noise gets worse as spin speed increases because the problem compounds under load. high	high
SUD	The washer detected excessive foam in the drum and paused the cycle to allow suds to dissipate before continuing. low	low
SUD / 5UD	The SUD or 5UD code means your Samsung washer's sensor detected way too much foam in the drum. The machine pauses the cycle on purpose so the suds can die down before continuing. It's basically the washer saying 'hold on, I can't see through all this soap right now.' low	low
TE	The NTC thermistor is sending the control board a resistance reading that doesn't match any real temperature, either open circuit, shorted, or a bad connection. The board can't confirm water temp, so it shuts down the heater to prevent overheating. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	A hands-on troubleshooting guide for the most common mechanical and electronic failures in Samsung front-load and top-load washers, covering everything from drainage clogs to balance errors to door latch failures. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	General troubleshooting guide for common Samsung washer failures, focusing on drainage, balance, and fill issues typical for the brand. moderate	moderate
UB	The front-load washer detected uneven load distribution during the spin cycle and paused or reduced spin speed to protect the drum and bearings. low	low
UE	The drum's weight sensors detected uneven weight distribution during the spin cycle and paused to prevent the tub from banging against the cabinet walls at high RPM. Basically the machine's self-preservation instinct kicking in. low	low
UR	The top-load washer detected an uneven load distribution during spin and cut power to the motor. The balance sensor told the control board the tub was swinging too far off-center, so it dumps in a little water and tries to slowly redistribute the load before the tub starts slamming against the cabinet. low	low
VIBRATING	When a Samsung washer vibrates hard during spin, something in the balance-and-dampen system has broken down. Could be a simple imbalanced load, could be worn shocks or suspension rods, or shipping bolts still in from delivery. Samsung's VRT can smooth out minor imbalances but it can't carry the load when the physical components underneath are worn out. moderate	moderate
VRT-HUB	Samsung's VRT system uses sensors, counterweights, and ball-bearing rings to detect and cancel out drum vibration during spin. When it hits an imbalance it can't correct on its own, it flags one of several codes like UB, DC, 4C, 5C, or LE. Each code points to a different root cause but they all run through the same VRT sensor network. moderate	moderate
WA45T3200AW-PARTS	The WA45T3200AW parts diagram is basically an exploded X-ray of the whole machine. It shows every component in its actual location, with reference numbers that tie back to Samsung's official part numbers. You use it to figure out exactly what to order and where it goes before you take anything apart. low	low
WONT-START	The washer's control board is getting power but won't kick off a wash cycle. Either a safety interlock like the door latch or lid switch is blocking the start signal, or the board itself isn't sending the run command to the motor. Basically the machine's brain is stuck waiting for a green light that isn't coming. moderate	moderate
d5	The washer's control board isn't detecting a closed and locked signal from the door switch assembly. It won't let the cycle start or continue until it gets that confirmation, which is a basic safety feature built into every modern front-loader. high	high