Lg Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Lg error codes.

130 error codes across 6 appliance types

Dishwasher

Code	Meaning	Severity
	AE stands for Aqua Error. It signals that the anti-flood float switch located in the drip pan at the bottom of the dishwasher has detected accumulated water and triggered an automatic shutdown to prevent further water damage to surrounding cabinetry and flooring. high	high
1E	The pressure sensor that monitors water level in the tub is sending a signal the control board doesn't recognize. Either the tube feeding it is blocked, the sensor diaphragm has failed, or there's a wiring issue between the sensor and the main board. moderate	moderate
6E	The dishwasher's optical soil sensor can't get a clean reading. Either the infrared beam is blocked by grease or mineral scale on the lens, the wiring connector has come loose, or the sensor's internal LED has actually burned out and the board's not getting any signal at all. moderate	moderate
AE	The base pan leak sensor has detected water or elevated moisture in the drip tray beneath the dishwasher tub critical	critical
AE	AE means the leak detection float switch in the base pan has been triggered by standing water. The control board cuts the wash cycle, fires up the drain pump, and won't let the machine run again until that tray is bone dry and the float drops back down. high	high
BE	A button on the control panel is stuck in the pressed position or the control panel PCB is registering a continuous key-down signal moderate	moderate
BEEPING	The dishwasher's interrupting its cycle because it's detected a fault. That's usually a door latch that's lost electrical contact, a leak sensor in the base pan that's gotten wet, or a drain that can't clear water fast enough. The beeping is the machine's way of saying it won't keep running until you address that. moderate	moderate
CL	CL stands for Child Lock. When it's showing, the dishwasher's control board has disabled all button inputs on the panel. Nothing will respond until you send the unlock command. It's a software state stored in the main PCB, not a hardware fault. low	low
CL	Child lock is active. The control panel is locked and will not respond to button presses until unlocked. low	low
E1	The NTC thermistor is reading outside its expected resistance range, and the control board's flagging a temperature circuit fault. Basically the sensor's sending back an impossible number, so the board shuts everything down rather than risk scalding the pump or under-heating the wash. high	high
HE	The control board watches how fast water temperature climbs during the cycle. If it doesn't see the water hit target temp within its allowed window, it throws HE and shuts the cycle down. Could be the thermistor feeding it bad data, the element not firing at all, or the wiring in between failing under load. high	high
HUB	Hub page covering all LG dishwasher error codes across LG's direct-drive inverter motor platform low	low
IE	The water level sensor did not detect enough water in the tub after the fill valve was commanded to open during the fill cycle moderate	moderate
L2	The secondary leak sensor, positioned further back in the base pan than the primary AE sensor, detected moisture. The control board locks everything down immediately to keep water off your floor. critical	critical
LE	The direct-drive inverter wash motor has stalled, locked, or failed to reach operating speed within the expected startup window high	high
LEAKING	Water's escaping somewhere it shouldn't during the wash cycle. LG's QuadWash system runs at higher pressure than most brands, so even a small gap in the door gasket or a cracked spray arm can push water out pretty aggressively. The machine itself doesn't always know it's leaking unless there's a float sensor triggered in the base pan. moderate	moderate
NE	The control board tried to read the NFC tag module during startup or mid-cycle and got no response back. It's a communication timeout, not a hardware failure in most cases. low	low
NOISE	The dishwasher is producing an unusual sound outside its normal operating hum. Could be mechanical debris caught in the pump impeller, failing motor bearings, a spray arm hitting something, or the self-cleaning filter running its cycle. LG's Direct Drive motor has a normal low hum, so grinding, squealing, or rhythmic thumping is outside spec. moderate	moderate
NOT-CLEANING	Your LG dishwasher isn't getting enough water pressure to the spray arms, isn't heating water properly, or can't circulate water because of a clog somewhere in the system. The wash pump pulls water from the sump, the spray arms spin and spray it at your dishes, and anything blocking that flow means dirty dishes at the end. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRAINING	The dishwasher's drain pump isn't clearing water from the sump at the end of the cycle. Could be a blocked filter stopping flow before it even reaches the pump, a foreign object jamming the impeller, a failed pump motor, or something downstream like a kinked hose or a plugged garbage disposal connection. moderate	moderate
NOT-DRYING	Your LG dishwasher finished the cycle but dishes are still wet. Usually means the condensation drying process broke down somewhere, whether that's no rinse aid, a dead vent fan, a failed heating element, or just plastic items that physically can't dry this way. moderate	moderate
OE	The drain cycle timed out. Water wasn't removed from the tub within the expected window, so the board flagged it and shut everything down. moderate	moderate
P1	The wash pump circuit detected a pressure or performance fault. The pump's running but it's not building the spray pressure the board expects, or the pump motor circuit has started to fail outright. high	high
RE	The control board detected a fault in the rinse aid dispenser circuit or the rinse phase didn't complete right. Either the solenoid didn't fire when it was supposed to, or the board's feedback loop confirmed the dispenser door never actually opened during the cycle. moderate	moderate
SMELLS	Bacteria feeding on trapped food and grease inside the filter, sump, drain hose, or door gasket produce hydrogen sulfide gas. That's your rotten egg or sewer smell. It builds up over time from missed cleanings and too many low-temperature wash cycles that never get hot enough to actually kill anything living in there. moderate	moderate
UNRESPONSIVE	The dishwasher's control board is basically stuck. It's not responding to button presses because it's either frozen mid-cycle, caught in an error loop, or has a sensor screaming at it to stop. A reset clears the board's short-term memory and tells it to start fresh. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	The control board isn't receiving the start signal it needs. Either the door switch hasn't confirmed the door is closed, a safety lockout's active, the board lost power from a blown fuse, or the board got confused after a power event. The machine won't run any cycle until those conditions clear. moderate	moderate

Dryer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
	D80 is an LG Flow Sense diagnostic code indicating the exhaust duct system is approximately 80% blocked. The dryer's internal pressure sensor detected dangerously low airflow, triggering this fault to prevent overheating, component damage, and potential fire hazard. high	high
	D80 is an LG Flow Sense diagnostic code indicating the exhaust duct system is approximately 80% restricted. The dryer's internal pressure sensor detects abnormally high back-pressure during operation, signaling dangerously reduced airflow that risks overheating, extended dry times, and potential fire. high	high
9A5	The control board detected an abnormal power supply condition. On gas models running on 120V, even a small voltage drop can trigger this. On electric models it usually means one leg of the 240V supply is weak or missing. The board's basically saying it's not getting what it needs to run safely. high	high
CL	CL stands for Check Lint. It's a counter-based maintenance reminder built into the control board, not a fault code. The dryer's not reading a sensor, it just hit a preset cycle count and wants you to clean the filter. Everything keeps running normally. low	low
D80	LG's Flow Sense system detected airflow restriction at 80% of the max blockage threshold. The dryer'll still run and heat, but performance degrades and it's warning you before things escalate to D90 or D95. Basically the sensor's picking up back-pressure that shouldn't be there. high	high
D90	LG's Flow Sense system detected that airflow restriction has reached 90% of the maximum blockage threshold. The dryer actively reduces heat output to prevent overheating. Drying performance drops significantly at this level. critical	critical
D95	Exhaust airflow restriction has reached 95% of the maximum blockage threshold. The dryer has shut off the heating element entirely and will only tumble without heat. This is the most severe Flow Sense warning. Lint accumulation at this level is a fire hazard. critical	critical
FLOW-SENSE	Flow Sense monitors exhaust backpressure in real time. When the blower motor has to strain harder than normal to push air out through the duct, the sensor detects that resistance and triggers the warning. Basically means air can't escape your house fast enough. Usually means 80% or more blockage somewhere in the duct path. moderate	moderate
HUB	LG dryers run continuous airflow monitoring through the Flow Sense system. When exhaust restriction hits 80, 90, or 95 percent, you get the corresponding D-code. TE1 fires when the exhaust thermistor circuit reads open or shorted. 9A5 means the control board detected a voltage problem at startup. low	low
NOISE	When LG dryer hardware wears down, the moving parts start generating friction, vibration, or impact sounds that travel through the drum cabinet. It's mechanical wear, not a software fault, so no error code fires on the display. Rollers, the idler pulley, drum glides, and the blower wheel are the usual suspects. moderate	moderate
NOT-HEATING	The drum spins and the motor runs, but the heating element or gas burner never fires. Either a safety component tripped and cut power to the heat circuit, or the heat source itself failed. LG's thermistor-based temperature control system means failures can be intermittent before they go completely dead. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	Your drum stopped spinning because either the belt connecting the motor to the drum snapped, the rollers supporting the drum seized up, or the door switch failed and the safety circuit won't let the motor run. The motor itself is usually fine. moderate	moderate
NOT-TURNING-OFF	The control board isn't completing its stop sequence. Either the moisture sensors are sending a false 'still wet' signal, a relay on the PCB is welded shut keeping the motor circuit live, or a post-cycle feature like Wrinkle Care is actively running a tumble sequence and hasn't timed out yet. moderate	moderate
RESET	When an LG dryer faults out, the control board stores the error in active memory and locks the display. A reset clears that stored state. For airflow codes like D80 and D90, the board won't clear until the live sensor readings actually improve. For most other codes, a power discharge does the trick. low	low
SMELLS-BURNING	Your LG dryer is detecting or producing heat in a place it shouldn't. Whether it's lint packed into the heater housing, worn roller material grinding against the drum shaft, or something that slipped behind the drum and landed on the element, the Direct Drive motor rules out belt issues entirely on most LG models. moderate	moderate
STUCK-COOLING	The dryer finished the heat phase but can't confirm the clothes are actually dry, so it just keeps cycling. Either the moisture sensors aren't reading correctly, or the heater never got hot enough to trigger the next phase. The board's basically waiting on a signal that isn't coming. high	high
TAKING-LONG	Your LG dryer is running full cycles but not removing moisture efficiently. Either it's not generating enough heat, the hot air can't exhaust properly, or the moisture sensors are giving wrong readings and cutting the cycle short before clothes are actually dry. moderate	moderate
TE1	The exhaust temperature sensor (thermistor) circuit is open or shorted. The dryer cannot safely monitor exhaust air temperature and will not operate normally until the fault is resolved. high	high
WONT-START	The control board isn't completing the circuit needed to start the motor. Could be a broken safety device like the thermal fuse or door switch, a failed relay on the board itself, or a power supply issue. Basically the board sees a condition that isn't met and refuses to run. moderate	moderate
dE	The dE code fires when the main control board can't confirm the door is closed and latched. Electrically, the door switch is an open circuit until you push the door shut. When the board doesn't see that circuit close, it kills power to the motor and throws the code. moderate	moderate

Microwave

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Code	Meaning	Severity
F3	F3 on an LG microwave means the control board is detecting a keypad short circuit. Something's completing a circuit on one or more key traces without you pressing anything. Usually that's moisture, a corroded ribbon connector, or a membrane that's physically worn through from years of use. moderate	moderate

Oven

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Code	Meaning	Severity
F1	F1 means the control board detected a continuous closed signal from the keypad, like someone's holding a button down forever. The board shuts things down as a safety move because a stuck 'on' signal could trigger runaway heating. Something in the keypad circuit is shorted. high	high
F11	The control board detected that one or more buttons has been held down longer than a normal press. It can't tell if it's a physical jam or an internal short in the membrane circuit, so it throws F11 and locks out to keep the oven from running unattended with a stuck key. moderate	moderate
F19	The main control board has detected an internal fault or quit working entirely. That board manages everything: temperature regulation, element switching, the display, and all the safety monitoring. When it goes, the whole oven goes with it. high	high
F3	The oven temperature sensor (RTD probe) has failed open or shorted. The control board cannot receive valid temperature data and has shut down the heating function as a safety measure. high	high
F7	The F7 error code on an LG oven indicates a stuck key or a short circuit in the control panel assembly. This happens when the control board detects a button signal being sent continuously for more than sixty seconds. moderate	moderate
F9	The oven's door lock motor or latch assembly didn't lock or unlock the way the board expected. The control board sent the command, waited for the confirmation signal from the position switch, didn't get it in time, and threw the fault. Something mechanical or electrical in that lock circuit isn't completing the handshake. high	high
HUB	Reference guide covering all LG range and oven fault codes for the LRE and LDE series, including their causes, severity, and repair paths. low	low
NOT-HEATING	The oven's not reaching or maintaining temperature because one or more heating components have failed. That's either a burned bake element, a failed igniter on gas models, a dead temperature sensor giving the control board bad readings, or a blown thermal fuse that cut power to the heating circuit entirely. moderate	moderate
WONT-START	The oven's control system isn't completing its startup sequence. Either it's not getting proper voltage, a safety component like the thermal fuse has cut power to protect the unit, or the control board software's stuck in a locked state. Basically the oven sees a reason it shouldn't run and it's refusing to start. moderate	moderate

Refrigerator

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Code	Meaning	Severity
1F	The freezer defrost temperature sensor has failed or is reading out of its expected range, preventing the automatic defrost cycle from operating correctly. high	high
1f e	The 1f e code (which honestly looks like If E on most displays) means the ice maker fan motor in your freezer isn't spinning at the speed it should. The control board detected that and shut things down before the motor could burn out completely. moderate	moderate
CF	The CF code fires when the control board detects the condenser fan isn't spinning fast enough or isn't spinning at all. That fan's job is to pull air across the compressor and condenser coils to dump heat. No fan means no heat dissipation, and the compressor starts cooking itself from the inside out. high	high
CF E	The condenser fan motor has stopped running. This fan blows air across the condenser coils to dissipate heat from the compressor. Without it, the compressor overheats and the refrigerator stops cooling. high	high
CH E	The control board is getting an open circuit, short circuit, or wildly out-of-range resistance reading from one of the compartment temperature sensors. LG French door fridges have multiple NTC thermistors for different zones, and CH E fires when any one of them stops reporting a believable temperature. moderate	moderate
CL	CL isn't actually an error code. It stands for Child Lock, which means the control panel and all the dispenser buttons are locked to prevent accidental changes or little hands from messing with the settings. low	low
CL E	CL E means the main control board lost communication with the door cooling fan, or the fan itself has stopped responding entirely. It's specific to LG French door and side-by-side models with the Linear Compressor system, and it's almost always isolated to the door section, not the main cabinet. moderate	moderate
COMPRESSOR	The compressor pressurizes refrigerant so it can absorb heat from inside the cabinet. When it stops running, refrigerant just sits there and nothing cools. LG's Linear Compressor design cuts down on moving parts but created specific failure points in the piston and valve assembly that ended up triggering a class action settlement. moderate	moderate
COMPRESSOR-FAILURE	The compressor, basically the pump that circulates refrigerant through your whole system, isn't starting or can't build pressure. Your fans still run fine, but without that pump moving refrigerant around, nothing's actually making cold air and the temperature just keeps climbing. moderate	moderate
DH F	The defrost heater assembly has an open circuit or the thermal fuse in the defrost circuit has blown. The automatic defrost cycle cannot run, and frost will accumulate on the evaporator coils over time. high	high
ER CO	The condenser temperature sensor's either failed or reading outside its normal range. On a lot of LG models, ER CO can also mean the main control board and the inverter board have lost communication with each other. Two different root causes, same error code. high	high
ER IF	The ice maker temperature sensor has failed or is reading outside its expected range. The control board cannot accurately monitor ice maker temperature, so ice production stops as a safety measure. moderate	moderate
Er CF	The condenser fan motor isn't spinning at the speed the control board expects, or it's stopped communicating entirely. The board detects this through a hall sensor signal. No signal means no cooling cycle, which is the board protecting the compressor from overheating. high	high
Er CF	The main control board monitors the condenser fan motor's speed at the bottom rear of the unit. When that fan slows down or stops completely, the board triggers Er CF to protect the compressor from overheating. The fan's supposed to run any time the compressor is running, so if it's not spinning, heat builds up fast. high	high
Er FF	Er FF means the control board detected the freezer evaporator fan isn't spinning at the right speed or isn't spinning at all. That fan pulls air across the cold coils and pushes it into both compartments. No fan, no airflow, no cooling anywhere in the unit. high	high
Er FF	The control board sent voltage to the freezer evaporator fan motor and got no feedback signal. Either the blades are physically jammed and can't spin, or the motor windings are shot and it's not drawing current the way it should. Simple as that. high	high
FF	FF stands for Freezer Fan. The control board detected that the evaporator fan motor isn't spinning or isn't sending a feedback signal back. Basically the fan that moves cold air from the freezer coils throughout your fridge has stopped, and the board noticed. high	high
FF E	The freezer evaporator fan motor has stopped running or the control board cannot detect its operation. Without this fan, cold air cannot circulate from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. high	high
FREEZING	The fridge section is getting too much cold air from the freezer because the electronic damper is stuck open or a thermistor is telling the control board the temperature is warmer than it actually is, so the compressor keeps running when it shouldn't. moderate	moderate
HUB	Reference hub covering all LG refrigerator fault codes displayed via Smart Diagnosis on French door, side-by-side, and bottom-freezer models. low	low
ICE-MAKER	The ice maker isn't completing its harvest cycle. On LG's twist-tray design, a motor physically rotates the tray to eject cubes instead of using a heating element. If the fill, freeze, or twist sequence breaks down anywhere, the whole cycle stops and the bin just sits there empty. moderate	moderate
IF	The IF code, also shown as Er IF, means the control board is detecting that the ice fan isn't spinning at the right speed, or isn't spinning at all. The board monitors fan RPM through a tachometer signal, and when that signal goes wrong or disappears, it shuts things down to protect the motor. moderate	moderate
IF	The control board monitors that fan constantly. When it stops spinning at the right speed, or stops completely, it throws the IF code. On some displays it shows up as 1F because the letter I and the number 1 look identical on those seven-segment screens. Either way, same problem, same fix. moderate	moderate
IF E	The ice maker compartment fan motor has either failed or something's physically blocking it from spinning. It's a separate fan from your main freezer fan. When it stops, the ice maker zone warms up, ice production stops, and the board throws this code to let you know. moderate	moderate
IS	When you see IS, or 15 on the display, the control board's lost confidence in the ice maker fan circuit. Either it can't detect the fan spinning at the right speed, or the sensor signal went missing entirely. Something in that ice compartment isn't doing its job. moderate	moderate
LEAKING	Water is escaping the refrigerator's internal systems, either from the defrost drain trough in the freezer, the pressurized water supply lines, the filter housing, or an overflowing ice maker. Each source looks different and gets fixed differently. moderate	moderate
LG-SHELF-REPAIR	LG refrigerator door shelf repair refers to the process of identifying, removing, and replacing damaged or cracked plastic door bins and gallon containers that have lost structural integrity. low	low
NOISE	Your LG refrigerator is producing sounds outside its normal operating range. Whether it's the evaporator fan hitting ice, the condenser fan wobbling from dust buildup, or the linear compressor doing its characteristic click-on cycle, something's obstructed, worn, or failing inside the unit and it's worth tracking down before it turns into a bigger problem. moderate	moderate
NOT-COOLING	The fridge isn't maintaining temperature because something broke in the cooling loop. Either the refrigerant isn't circulating because of a compressor issue, the evaporator coils are frozen solid and blocking airflow, or the fans that move cold air around just aren't running. The fault can be anywhere in that chain. moderate	moderate
NOT-COOLING	Cold air's produced in the freezer compartment but it's not making it into the fridge section. Something's blocking or stopping that airflow, whether it's frozen-over coils, a dead fan, or a damper door that's stuck shut. high	high
PROBLEMS	This covers the most frequent mechanical and electrical failures in LG refrigerators. Basically: why it stops cooling, why it makes noise, and why water ends up on your floor. moderate	moderate
TROUBLESHOOTING	LG refrigerators have a few recurring weak spots: the linear compressor's internal valves, the evaporator fan that ices over near the back wall of the freezer, and the drain tube that clogs and sends water pooling under your crisper drawers. When something fails, LG's self-diagnostic system usually throws a specific error code to point you right at it. moderate	moderate
WARM-AIR-SYMPTOM	The fridge can't move heat out of the cabinet anymore. Either the refrigerant isn't circulating because the compressor's gone, the condenser fan stalled so heat's just baking the whole system, or the evaporator coils are buried in ice and no cold air can push through. high	high
WATER-DISPENSER	The dispenser system isn't getting water to the nozzle. The inlet valve might not be opening, the tube running through the freezer door might be frozen solid, or something's blocking flow between the filter housing and the spout. moderate	moderate
iFe	The IF or iFe code indicates a fault with the icemaker fan motor. This fan is responsible for blowing cold air from the freezer into the icemaker compartment in the door. The code triggers when the control board detects the fan is not spinning at the correct speed or is physically stuck. moderate	moderate

Washer

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Code	Meaning	Severity
03	Communication error between the main control board (PCB) and the sub-board, display board, or motor control unit high	high
5-UD	The 5 ud code, which is actually the 'SUD' error, indicates that the washer has detected an over-sudsing condition. The control board pauses the cycle to allow the foam to dissipate so the drain pump can function correctly. moderate	moderate
CE	CE stands for Current Error. The control board monitors the motor's electrical draw in real time, and when it detects a spike or short circuit beyond what the motor should be pulling, it shuts the cycle down immediately to protect the inverter components. Basically the machine's circuit breaker tripped itself on purpose. high	high
CL	Child Lock feature is active, disabling all control panel buttons except the Power button low	low
DE	The door interlock switch never got the 'door closed' signal. Either the latch hook didn't physically reach the switch, or the switch itself failed. The washer won't run until that signal gets confirmed, period. moderate	moderate
DIAG	Guide to accessing LG washer built-in service diagnostic mode and LG ThinQ Smart Diagnosis for component-level testing low	low
DL	The mechanical latch hooked in fine, but the electric solenoid inside the lock assembly either didn't activate or didn't send its locked confirmation signal back to the board. Two separate systems, and the second one failed. moderate	moderate
DOOR-WONT-OPEN	The door lock on your LG uses a wax motor or solenoid to physically bolt the door shut during operation. When it won't open, the machine either isn't sending the 'safe to open' signal, or the lock mechanism itself isn't releasing. Could be software like Child Lock, could be the wax motor not retracting, or could be residual water pressure telling the board to keep everything sealed. moderate	moderate
ECL	ECL stands for Extended Cycle (Clean) reminder. The firmware hit a second threshold, typically around 60+ cycles since your last Tub Clean, because you dismissed the first TCL warning and kept washing. The machine's still fine, it's just really insisting you clean the tub now. low	low
FE	The control board's water level sensor caught water above the maximum fill threshold. That usually means the inlet valve isn't closing when it's told to, or the pressure switch is misreading an empty tub and calling for more water. high	high
HUB	HUB fires when the main control board loses communication with the display board. Basically the two brains of your washer stopped talking. Could be a loose connector on the wire harness, moisture damage on one of the boards, or an actual board failure. The washer won't run a cycle until that connection is restored. low	low
IE	IE stands for Inlet Error. The washer opened its valves and waited for the pressure sensor to detect rising water. When that sensor didn't trip within about eight minutes, the control board threw the code and killed the cycle to protect the pump and drum. moderate	moderate
LD	Your washer's drain timer expired before the tub was empty. Water is moving, just too slowly. Something's restricting the drain path, whether that's a clogged filter, a hose that's too long, or a pump that's starting to wear out. moderate	moderate
LE	The motor is locked or unable to rotate, detected by the hall sensor reporting no rotor movement to the main control board high	high
LEAKING	Water's escaping from somewhere in the sealed system. That could be a door seal, a hose connection, the pump housing, or in bad cases the outer tub itself. LG front loaders are pressurized during the wash cycle, so even a small gap will push water out consistently every single time you run it. moderate	moderate
NOISE	The LG Direct Drive motor mounts directly to the rear tub with no belt or pulley in between. When the tub bearing wears out, you get metal-on-metal contact that creates a rumbling sound. The spider arm is the three-pronged aluminum piece connecting the drum to the shaft, and when it corrodes or cracks, the drum wobbles and causes grinding or banging. moderate	moderate
NOSOUND	Your LG washer isn't throwing a real error code here, it's just not doing anything. Either the machine's not getting power to the right components, the cycle start conditions aren't met (door latch is the big one), or the drive motor has quit. No code, no noise, no movement. low	low
NOT-DRAINING	An LG washer not draining has standing water in the drum. LG front-loaders have an accessible drain pump filter behind a small door on the lower front panel. LG displays the OE error code when drainage fails. moderate	moderate
NOT-FILLING	The IE code fires when the washer's control board doesn't detect water entering the tub within its allowed time window, usually 8-10 minutes. The board monitors a pressure sensor or flow sensor, and when the expected signal never comes back, it kills the cycle and displays IE. Something's blocking water from getting in, or the valve can't open at all. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The MEMS vibration sensor monitors how much the outer tub is physically shaking during the spin cycle. When it fails or starts reading garbage data, the washer can't confirm it's safe to ramp up to high-speed extraction. So it either loops endlessly trying to rebalance, or throws the UE code and gives up. moderate	moderate
NOT-SPINNING	The hall sensor tells the control board exactly where the rotor is at every millisecond of the spin cycle. When it fails, the board can't time the magnetic pulses correctly, so instead of smooth rotation you get a drum that just sits there vibrating or jerks and stops. moderate	moderate
OE	The washer cannot drain water within the allotted time window, typically 4-6 minutes for a full drain cycle high	high
PE	The pressure sensor, or the air dome hose feeding it, isn't sending a valid water level signal to the main control board. The board has no idea how much water is in the tub, so it throws PE and shuts the cycle down before it can overfill or run dry. moderate	moderate
PF	Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming voltage dropped to zero during an active cycle. It saves the cycle position to memory and displays PF on the next power-up so you know the cycle was interrupted and didn't finish normally. low	low
RESET	Guide covering all reset methods for LG washer front-load and top-load models, including soft reset, hard reset, and factory reset via diagnostic mode low	low
SMELLS	Detergent residue, hair, and moisture have built up into a biofilm inside the tub, door boot seal fold, dispenser housing, and drain filter. LG's high-efficiency cycles use so little water that residue doesn't fully rinse away, and the trapped moisture creates a bacteria breeding ground that contaminates every load. moderate	moderate
STUCK	Symptom guide for LG washers that stop advancing through wash, rinse, drain, or spin stages low	low
SUD	The SUD error fires when the washer's pressure sensor and optical foam detector pick up more air bubbles than the control board considers safe for normal operation. Basically the drum's full of foam instead of water, and the pump can't drain air. It's a protective pause, not a breakdown. low	low
SUD	The washer detected too many suds in the drum. This creates a suds lock condition where the drain pump can't move water because it's basically air-locked by foam, or the motor's sensing way too much resistance from all those bubbles trying to spin through. low	low
TCL	Your washer's internal firmware counter hit 30 completed wash cycles and flipped a maintenance flag. The display's basically saying 'hey, time to flush the drum.' No component failed, nothing's broken. It's a software reminder, same as an oil change light on your car. low	low
TE	The NTC thermistor is sending a resistance value outside the expected range, or it's completely open or shorted. The control board can't verify water temperature, so it shuts down the heating circuit and throws this code to stop you from running a cycle it can't monitor safely. moderate	moderate
THINQ-HUB	ThinQ is LG's smart home platform built into the washer's control board. When you run Smart Diagnosis, the washer's processor encodes its internal sensor readings as audio tones and broadcasts them through a small front-panel speaker. The app decodes those tones and cross-references them with LG's server database to identify the exact fault code. moderate	moderate
U5	The drum's vibration sensor picked up too much wobble during spin and paused the cycle to protect the drum and cabinet. Same exact logic and sensor as UL, just displayed differently on certain LG model lines. low	low
UE	UE stands for Unbalanced Error. The washer's got a sensor that monitors drum rotation speed and wobble during spin-up. When the drum starts pulling hard to one side and can't correct itself, the machine cuts power to the motor before that vibration gets bad enough to crack the outer tub or trash the bearings. moderate	moderate
UL	The washer hit its vibration limit during spin because the laundry shifted off-center. It shuts down automatically to prevent damage to the drum bearings and suspension system. low	low
VIBRATING	An LG washer vibrating excessively during spin has an imbalanced load, worn shock absorbers/suspension, leveling issue, or a vibration sensor fault. LG's TrueBalance anti-vibration system uses sensors to detect and compensate for imbalance. moderate	moderate
VIBRATION-FAULT	The vibration sensor, also known as the MEMS sensor, is failing to accurately report tub movement to the control board, which prevents the washer from entering high-speed spin. high	high
WONT-START	The control board is refusing to initiate the wash cycle because it's not getting a confirmed door-locked signal, there's no clean power reaching the board, or Child Lock is blocking all input. The board won't let anything spin until it gets the all-clear from those safety circuits. moderate	moderate