HE on an LG dishwasher points to either the heating element or the NTC thermistor (temperature sensor). The thermistor is the cheaper and easier part to test first. At room temperature, a healthy LG NTC thermistor reads around 10-50k ohms depending on ambient temperature.
Ignore this and you're basically running a glorified cold-water rinse every cycle. The machine won't dry properly either since heated dry uses that same element. I've watched people run a dishwasher for weeks with an HE code thinking it'll clear itself. It won't. You end up with bacteria-laden dishes and a potentially burned-out control board by the time you finally deal with it.
The thermistor usually runs $15-25 and takes about 20 minutes to swap out. Full heating element assembly is $40-80. But before you order anything, honestly, go run your kitchen sink on hot for two minutes and feel the water. If it's coming out below 120°F, your water heater might actually be part of the problem. LG's control board is strict about how fast it wants to see water temperature climb, and it doesn't give the heater much grace time.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
NTC thermistor failed (out of range resistance reading)40%
Heating element winding failed open circuit24%
Main control board heater relay failure22%
Wiring harness connector loose or corroded at heater14%
Symptoms You May Notice
HE code flashes on the display partway through a normal or sanitize cycle and the machine just stops.
You open the door at the end of the cycle and the water sitting in the bottom is lukewarm at best, not the hot steamy water you'd expect.
Dishes come out still greasy, especially on the bottom rack, because the water never got hot enough to actually cut through food residue.
Sanitize indicator light never comes on, or the cycle aborts partway through because the board knows it didn't hit the required temperature.
Dishes aren't drying even with heated dry selected, since the element responsible for drying is the exact same one that's faulting.
Can you reset a Lg dishwasher to clear the HE code?
After the repair, flip the breaker off and leave it off for a full 60 seconds. Not 10 seconds. A full minute so the control board fully loses power and resets. Come back, flip it on, let it boot up. Then run a Normal cycle with High Temp Wash selected. Stick around for the first 15 minutes. Crack the door partway through and you should feel real heat and steam. No HE code and actual hot water means you're done.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverTorx T20 screwdriverDigital multimeter with ohms settingNon-contact voltage testerFlashlight or headlampNeedle-nose pliers
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10000–50000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Thermistor (NTC Sensor)EAF63615501 · $12–$22
EAF63615501
$12 – $22
Heater AssemblyEAU60933501 · $40–$70
EAU60933501
$40 – $70
Frequently Asked Questions
Why should I test the thermistor before the heating element on LG HE?
The thermistor is usually $15-20 and takes maybe 20 minutes to swap. The heater assembly is $50-80 and a much bigger job. Here's the thing about that thermistor. It tells the control board what temperature the water is at. If it drifts and reports the water is already at 150°F when it's actually sitting at 70°F, the board never fires the heater and throws HE. So you've got a perfectly good $70 heating element sitting there doing nothing because a $15 sensor is lying to the board. Always rule out the cheap part first and you'll save yourself money on both parts and labor.
Can I keep using my dishwasher while it's showing the HE code?
Technically the machine will still run, but honestly, don't. The water's not getting hot enough to sanitize anything, so you're basically rinsing dishes in lukewarm soapy water. Grease doesn't come off, bacteria doesn't get killed, and your dishes come out feeling gross and kind of filmy. Plus if the underlying issue is a failing harness that's arcing somewhere, you could be making things worse and way more expensive every single time you run it. Fix it sooner rather than later.
How do I tell if it's the thermistor or the heating element that failed?
Your multimeter settles it pretty fast. Test the thermistor first. At room temp, around 70°F, a good LG thermistor reads somewhere in the 10,000 to 50,000 ohm range. Open circuit or zero means that's your problem. If the thermistor checks out fine, pull the wires off the element terminals and test continuity directly. Good elements read 10 to 30 ohms. Open circuit means the coil snapped. Run both tests before you order anything and you won't waste money guessing and buying the wrong part.
How much does it usually cost to fix an LG dishwasher HE error?
If it's just the thermistor, you're looking at $15-25 for the part and maybe 30 minutes of your time. Heating element assembly runs $40-80 depending on where you buy it. Burned wiring harness adds another $20-40. Worst case is a failed control board, which can run $150-250 for the part alone, and at that point the math gets tricky on an older machine. But realistically, the majority of HE codes I see are either the thermistor or the element, and both are totally manageable DIY repairs if you're reasonably comfortable with a multimeter.
What part numbers should I look for when ordering the thermistor or heating element?
For most LG dishwashers the NTC thermistor is part number 6323EL2001B or 6323EL2001A, and they're interchangeable in most cases. The heating element you want is usually 6900W1A003B or 6900W1A003D depending on the specific model. Before ordering, pull your model number off the inside edge of the door and verify on LG's parts site or RepairClinic. The model number matters because the newer LDFN series uses slightly different part numbers than the older LDP and LDF series, and you don't want to end up with the wrong connector configuration.
Will running a cleaning cycle help prevent the HE code from coming back?
Yeah, actually, a lot. Mineral scale is a massive factor especially in hard water areas. Running a citric acid cleaning cycle every 3 to 6 months keeps scale from building up on the element and choking its ability to transfer heat into the water. Dishwasher cleaner pods work for this too. If your tap water is really hard, a whole-house water softener is worth thinking about long term. I've seen heating elements on hard water completely coated in white chalky crust after just 3 years. That same element in a softened water home lasts 10 years or more without any issues.