LG Dishwasher E1 Error Code: Temperature Sensor Fault
Quick Answer
E1 on an LG dishwasher specifically targets the NTC thermistor as the fault, distinct from HE which can indicate either the heater or the sensor. E1 means the thermistor reading was outside the expected window. At room temperature (approximately 20-25 C) the thermistor should read in the 10-50k ohm range.
When this code pops up, your dishwasher stops mid-cycle because it can't verify the water temp. These sensors don't just drift, they usually fail completely open, meaning the internal circuit's just broken. It's a cheap part, honestly. But it's buried near the sump, so you'll be getting pretty intimate with the bottom of the machine. Ignore it and your dishes won't get sanitized properly.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flathead screwdriver for prying panel clips
What Does the E1 Code Mean?
While HE is a general heater catch-all, E1 is the board telling you specifically that the NTC thermistor's lying to it. I've seen these fail from moisture in the connector or just plain component fatigue. It's common enough on older LG models that I actually keep a spare sensor in my truck. Replaced three of these last month alone.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
NTC thermistor winding failed open circuit (OL reading)40%
Thermistor resistance drifted outside spec due to aging36%
Thermistor connector loose or corroded24%
Symptoms You May Notice
E1 flashes on the display partway through a wash cycle and everything just stops. No warning, no finish.
Dishes come out cold and still greasy because the machine couldn't confirm proper wash temp and cut the cycle short.
The sanitize or high-temp wash specifically refuses to run or aborts early and shows E1.
Machine won't start at all and just throws E1 the moment you press start, before water even fills.
Cycle appears to complete but E1 shows at the end and the sanitized indicator light never illuminates.
Can you reset a Lg dishwasher to clear the E1 code?
Unplug the unit or flip the breaker and leave it for a full minute so the board's memory clears completely. Once you've swapped the sensor, plug it back in and run a Quick Wash first before you try a sanitize cycle. If E1 was a one-time communication fluke, the reset might clear it. But honestly, if E1 comes back after a reset, that sensor's done and no amount of resetting's going to fix it. Don't bother resetting more than twice.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver for prying panel clipsDigital multimeter with ohms settingFlashlight or headlampElectrical contact cleaner or rubbing alcoholCotton swabs
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10000–50000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
NTC ThermistorEAF63615501 · $12–$22
EAF63615501
$12 – $22
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between LG dishwasher E1 and HE?
Think of HE as a general 'something's wrong with the heating system' alarm. Could be the element, the high-limit thermostat, or the sensor. E1 is way more specific. It means the control board got a resistance reading from the NTC thermistor that's physically impossible, usually because the internal wire snapped or the component just aged out. So if you're seeing E1, you can skip testing the heating element and go straight to the thermistor. Saves you a lot of time chasing the wrong part.
Can I still run my dishwasher with E1 showing?
Technically it'll try to run, but here's the thing: without a working temperature sensor the control board can't regulate water temp properly. Your dishes won't get sanitized. Cycles will cut short or complete without hitting the right temps. And on some models, running it repeatedly with a dead sensor can stress the heating element since the board's flying blind. I'd fix it before running more loads. The thermistor's like $15 and an hour of your time, and it's one of the easier repairs on these machines.
How much does it cost to fix an LG E1 error?
The thermistor itself is cheap, usually $12 to $25 depending on where you buy it. Do it yourself and that's your whole cost. Call a tech and expect an $80 to $120 service call fee plus $50 to $80 in labor, so you're looking at $130 to $200 total with a pro. Honestly this is one of the more beginner-friendly dishwasher repairs out there. You don't need to pull the door panel or touch any electronics. It's basically a sensor swap near the bottom of the machine.
What's the thermistor part number for LG dishwashers?
Most of the commonly affected models use ADC73959601 or ADC73959603. But don't just go by that. Pull the full model number off the label inside the door edge before you order anything. LG sometimes uses slightly different part numbers across production runs on the same model. Search your full model number on the LG parts site or a parts retailer and cross-reference to confirm. The part usually runs $15 to $20 online and ships fast from most appliance parts suppliers.
My LG shows E1 but the thermistor tests fine. What now?
This happens more than you'd think. If the sensor resistance is in spec and the connector looks clean, the next place to look is the wiring between the sensor and the main control board. Look for anywhere the wires could be pinched, chafed, or cracked. After that, it could be an intermittent fault in the board itself. I've seen boards throw phantom E1 codes after a power surge. Try a full power reset first and see if it holds. If E1 keeps coming back and everything else checks out, you're probably looking at a control board replacement, which runs $100 to $200 for the part and gets more involved to install.