RE on an LG dishwasher is a rinse-related error. In most cases, the first thing to check is whether the rinse aid reservoir is empty , an empty reservoir can cause RE on some LG models because the dispenser cannot dispense. If the reservoir is full and RE persists, the rinse aid dispenser solenoid may have failed.
Nine times out of ten this code is just an empty rinse aid dispenser. I had three RE calls last month and two of them were literally that. But ignore it and your dishes come out spotty and wet, and if the solenoid keeps dry-firing it can actually burn out the coil over time. So even though it feels minor, don't just clear the code and move on without fixing the actual problem.
OK so the RE code is LG's way of saying something went sideways in the rinse phase. Could be dead simple like an empty reservoir, or it could be the dispenser solenoid that physically pops the door open. I'd say about 70% of these calls are just the reservoir being low or empty. The other 30% is usually that little solenoid giving up, or detergent gunk that's physically blocking the flap from opening.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Rinse aid reservoir empty40%
Rinse aid dispenser solenoid failed24%
Control board rinse cycle sequencing error22%
Drain fault preventing rinse cycle from starting correctly14%
Symptoms You May Notice
RE code flashes on the display right at the tail end of the wash phase or just as the rinse cycle is supposed to kick in.
Dishes come out with white streaks or dried soap residue because the rinse aid never actually made it into the water.
The rinse aid indicator light on the door panel is lit even if you thought you just filled it recently.
Cycle stops dead and won't finish, machine just sits there with RE on the display and won't move forward.
You open the door mid-cycle and there's still cloudy or soapy water sitting in the bottom of the tub.
Can you reset a Lg dishwasher to clear the RE code?
After fixing whatever triggered RE, flip the breaker off or unplug the unit. Leave it off for a full ten minutes, don't cheat and do two minutes. The control board needs that time to fully discharge. Plug it back in, select Quick Wash, and watch through the door to see if that dispenser flap pops open during the cycle. If it does and RE doesn't come back within two full cycles, you're in the clear.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverMultimeter (for solenoid resistance testing)Toothbrush or small stiff-bristled brushWarm waterLiquid rinse aidFlashlight or work light
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range150–250 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does an empty rinse aid reservoir really cause RE on LG dishwashers?
Yeah, it absolutely can. LG dishwashers use an electrical feedback loop on the dispenser solenoid circuit, and when the reservoir is bone dry the resistance reading the board sees when it fires that solenoid can get interpreted as a circuit fault. I always tell customers to keep that reservoir topped off even if they're using the multi-action tabs. It keeps the system happy and honestly your dishes come out way drier too. Takes 30 seconds to refill and prevents a whole service call.
Can RE appear alongside other error codes?
Pretty common to see RE show up right after an OE drain error. If the dishwasher can't pump out the dirty wash water, the board won't let the rinse phase start at all, so RE is just a downstream symptom of the drain problem. Always fix drainage issues first and make sure the tub is completely empty before you start chasing a rinse aid problem. Check the drain hose for kinks, the filter basket for debris, and the drain pump if you saw OE before RE showed up.
How do I know if the dispenser solenoid is actually bad?
Grab a multimeter and set it to ohms. You'll need to pull the inner door panel to get to the solenoid, it's the small cylindrical coil with two wires attached right behind the dispenser assembly. Test across those two terminals. A good solenoid reads 150 to 250 ohms on most LG models. Get an open reading or something way outside that range? It's toast. You might also smell burnt plastic near that connector if it failed from heat. The whole dispenser assembly usually runs $40 to $70 and takes about 45 minutes to swap out.
Can I still use my dishwasher when RE is showing?
Technically it'll probably still wash. But the rinse phase is compromised so your dishes are gonna come out spotted and with dried detergent residue on them. And if the solenoid is the actual problem and it keeps dry-firing on every cycle, you can burn out the coil permanently, which turns a $50 fix into a $150 fix real quick. Honestly just deal with it before you run another load.
How much does fixing RE on an LG dishwasher usually cost?
If it's just an empty reservoir, zero dollars. If the dispenser flap needed cleaning, same deal. A new rinse aid dispenser assembly for an LG runs about $40 to $70 for the part, and if you're comfortable pulling a door panel it's a solid DIY job. Calling a tech, figure $150 to $250 all in for a solenoid swap depending on your market. If it turns out to be the control board triggering the RE code, that's a $200 to $350 part and you'll want to weigh that against how old the machine is.
Why does RE keep coming back after I clear it?
Because the reset just cleared the code, it didn't fix the problem. If it keeps returning, one of three things is happening: the reservoir is getting low again and needs refilling more often, the dispenser flap is still sticking and needs a more thorough cleaning, or the solenoid has actually failed and needs to be replaced. Persistent RE that comes back within a cycle or two after every reset almost always means a hardware problem. Don't keep resetting it and hoping it'll go away on its own.