5C is the older firmware display for the same drain error shown as SC on current Samsung models. Both codes fire when the drain cycle fails to lower the water level within the allowed time. 5C typically appears on Samsung washers built before 2018.
In my years of service calls, a 5C code usually means you're about to have a wet floor if you aren't careful. It's technically a drain failure, but the real-world cause is almost always a coin, hair tie, or a wad of lint trapped in the front debris filter. If the pump hums but the water level doesn't budge, you've got a mechanical blockage, not a dead motor.
Think of 5C as a stopwatch error. The control board gives the pump a specific window of time to empty the tub. If the water level sensor doesn't see the tub empty out fast enough, the machine throws this code and stops the cycle. It's a protective measure to keep the motor from burning out while fighting a heavy clog. Honestly, about 80% of the time it's just a dirty filter.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Pump filter clogged with lint, coins, or debris40%
Drain hose kinked or routed too high24%
Drain pump motor electrically failed22%
Foreign object lodged in pump impeller14%
Symptoms You May Notice
Water just sitting in the drum when the cycle should've ended twenty minutes ago
5C flashes mid-cycle and the machine locks up right before the spin
You hear a steady low hum from the pump, but nothing's coming out the drain hose
The door won't unlock because the machine still thinks it's full of water, and it usually is
Clothes come out completely soaking wet because the spin never actually happened
Can you reset a Samsung washer to clear the 5C code?
After fixing whatever caused the blockage, turn the washer off and back on. Run a Drain and Spin cycle with an empty drum to confirm it clears clean. If 5C comes back, unplug the machine completely for 5 full minutes so the control board capacitors can discharge all the way. Then plug it back in, press Power, and run Drain and Spin again before loading any clothes.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver (for popping the access panel clips)MultimeterShallow drain pan or baking sheetStack of old towelsNeedle-nose pliersShop vac (optional but seriously helpful)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range8–12 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Drain Pump Motor AssemblyDC61-01080A · $30–$55
DC61-01080A
$30 – $55
Frequently Asked Questions
Is 5C the same as SC on my Samsung washer?
They're the exact same fault. On older Samsung digital displays, the letter S looked a lot like the number 5, so the firmware displayed 5C. On newer models the font was updated to clearly show SC. Whether your screen says 5C or SC, the problem is always the same — the machine couldn't drain within the programmed time window, usually because of a clog or a failing pump motor.
My washer shows 5C but drains if I run it twice. Is the pump failing?
That's a classic sign of either a dying pump or a partial clog. As the motor ages it loses torque and might struggle to start against a full tub but manage to kick over on the second try when conditions are slightly different. More often there's a small object like a button or a toothpick rattling around in the pump housing that occasionally blocks the flow until the pump restarts and dislodges it. Either way, don't ignore it. It'll get worse.
Can I keep using my Samsung washer with the 5C code showing?
You can try to push through it but I wouldn't. If it drains on the second attempt you might squeeze out a few more loads, but every cycle you're making that pump motor fight against a restriction. That's exactly how they burn out early. A new pump assembly for these older Samsungs runs $60-90 for the part. That's way more annoying than spending 10 minutes cleaning the filter for free. Fix it first, then do your laundry.
How often should I clean the pump filter to prevent 5C?
Every three months is solid for normal loads. If you've got kids in sports, a couple of shedding dogs, or you wash a lot of denim and hoodies, bump it to monthly. The filter's behind that little door at the bottom front of the machine. Takes maybe 5 minutes once you know what you're doing. I set a reminder on my phone because honestly I forget too. Way less painful than a 5C code and a drum full of dirty water.
My filter is clean but I'm still getting 5C. What now?
Check the drain hose first. Pull the machine out and trace the whole hose from the pump to the wall, looking for kinks and checking how deep it goes into the standpipe, no more than 6 inches. If that's all fine, test the pump with a multimeter. You want 8 to 12 ohms across those two terminals. Way outside that range and the pump's done. Also worth checking the pressure sensor hose on the side of the tub. If it's cracked or disconnected, the board never gets the signal that the tub actually emptied.
How much does fixing a Samsung 5C error code cost?
If it's just the filter, it's free. Your time, that's it. New drain pump runs $60-90 for the part and it's about an hour of work if you're handy. If you're calling a tech, budget $150-250 total including the service call and labor. These older Samsung front loaders are pretty approachable for DIY if you're comfortable with basic tools. I replaced three of these pumps just last week and none of them took more than 45 minutes start to finish.