The E27 error is usually caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or loose wiring. To fix it, you should test the sensor resistance with a multimeter and replace the probe if it does not read approximately 1080 ohms at room temperature.
If you ignore the E27, the oven stays locked out. It won't heat at all. Most of the time it's a $40-60 sensor that takes about 30 minutes to swap out. I've seen this pop up after self-clean cycles a ton, and honestly the wiring is just as likely to be the culprit as the sensor itself. Don't throw a control board at this before you test the simple stuff.
OK so here's the deal with E27. Your Samsung's control board is constantly reading the resistance from that little temperature probe inside the oven cavity, and when that signal goes dead or reads something crazy, it kills the heat and throws this code. Usually a $50 part. I had three of these in one week last month, all post-self-clean failures. Check the wiring harness before you order anything because a melted wire connector looks exactly like a dead sensor on a multimeter if you're testing from the wrong spot.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Faulty temperature sensor probe75%
Damaged or melted wiring harness15%
Main control board relay failure10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Oven won't heat at all and displays E27 immediately when you try to start a bake or broil cycle.
The oven gets partway through preheating and then shuts off with the error code, usually somewhere between 150 and 250 degrees before it ever reaches the set temp.
Self-clean cycle starts fine and then aborts partway through, leaving the door locked and E27 on the display.
Oven temperature is wildly inconsistent, like it's burning everything or barely cooking, and then eventually E27 shows up permanently.
You smell a faint burning plastic smell near the back of the oven right before the code appears, which usually means wiring is the issue, not the sensor itself.
Can you reset a Samsung oven to clear the E27 code?
After the repair, flip the circuit breaker off and leave it off for at least 60 seconds. Don't just turn the oven off from the panel. The control board holds memory and a quick power cycle won't always clear the fault. A full 60-second hard reset wipes the board's volatile memory and forces it to run a fresh sensor check on startup. When power comes back, wait for the clock to come back on before testing.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverDigital multimeter with ohms settingWork glovesFlashlight or headlampNeedle-nose pliers
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range1050–1100 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my oven with an E27 error?
No, it's completely locked out. The heating elements won't fire at all while E27 is active. Samsung designed it this way on purpose because if the board can't read the temperature, it has no way to stop the oven from overheating. So it just shuts the whole heating system down. You can use the stovetop burners if it's a range, but the oven itself is dead until you fix the sensor circuit.
Why did the E27 code appear after a self-cleaning cycle?
Self-clean is brutal on everything inside that oven. We're talking 900-950 degrees Fahrenheit for 2-3 hours. A sensor that was borderline, maybe reading 1040 ohms instead of 1080, just gets cooked past the point of no return. The wire insulation near the sensor also gets crispy after enough self-clean cycles. I honestly tell people with older Samsung ovens to think twice about using self-clean, because the repair calls I get the week after self-clean season are always the same five codes.
How much does a Samsung oven temperature sensor cost?
Usually $40-80 for the part. The Samsung part number you want for most current models is DG32-00002B, but double-check against your model number before ordering. Labor runs about $100-150 if you hire a tech, so total repair cost is usually $150-220. Compared to the cost of the oven that's pretty reasonable. If you're comfortable with a screwdriver and a multimeter, this is genuinely a solid DIY repair.
Does the E27 code mean I need a new control board?
Probably not. I'd say maybe 10% of the E27 calls I go on end up being the control board. The other 90% are a bad sensor or damaged wiring. Always start with the sensor test because it takes 5 minutes and the part is cheap. Control boards on Samsung ovens run $200-400 and sometimes more, so you really don't want to guess wrong on that. If you've replaced the sensor, confirmed the wiring is good, and E27 keeps coming back, then yeah, the board is the next suspect.
What's the part number for the Samsung oven temperature sensor?
DG32-00002B covers a huge range of Samsung ovens and ranges. That said, always verify against your specific model number before you order. Pull the model tag off the frame inside the door and cross-reference it. Samsung has a few different sensor specs depending on the model year, and putting in the wrong resistance sensor will cause temperature accuracy problems even if it clears the error code.
How long does this repair take?
Honestly, 30-45 minutes if you've done it once before. First time, maybe an hour. The sensor itself is usually held in with one or two screws inside the oven cavity and the wiring connector is simple. The longest part is actually getting the back panel off and finding where the harness runs. It's not a hard job. If you can change a light fixture you can do this.
Models Known to Experience E27 Errors
This repair applies to most Samsung ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include: