The HE error code indicates a failure in the heating system of your Samsung washer. In most service calls, this is caused by a burned-out heating element, a faulty thermistor, or loose wiring connections at the heater.
So your Samsung is showing HE and you're wondering if it's basically dead. Probably not. Nine times out of ten it's the heating element or the little thermistor clipped onto it, and both are pretty cheap parts. Ignore this long enough and the control board can fry too, which turns a $40 fix into a $200 one. Test before you buy anything.
I've seen the HE code probably three or four times a week on Samsung front-loaders, honestly. It's one of the most common heating calls I get. The machine's basically telling you something in the heating circuit isn't right, whether that's the element itself, the temp sensor, or just a loose wire that shook free over time. Usually fixable without touching the control board.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Defective Heating Element65%
Failed Thermistor20%
Wiring Issues10%
Control Board Malfunction5%
Symptoms You May Notice
The washer stops dead mid-cycle, usually around the 10-15 minute mark when it's supposed to be actively heating the water
Clothes come out cold and barely wet, like the machine went through the motions without ever actually heating
The glass door is way hotter than normal to the touch, almost like it's retaining heat it couldn't move into the water
HE, HE1, or HE2 flashing on the display right after the heating phase starts
The cycle runs noticeably longer than usual before giving up, because the board keeps waiting for the temp to climb
Can you reset a Samsung washer to clear the HE code?
Unplug the washer from the wall and leave it unplugged for at least 3 minutes, not just 30 seconds. This lets the control board fully discharge and reset. Plug it back in, select a warm or hot cycle, and watch the display. If the repair worked it'll run clean. If HE pops back up within the first 10-15 minutes, you've still got a bad component in the heating circuit somewhere.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver10mm socket wrenchMultimeter with ohms settingNeedle-nose pliersWork glovesTowel or shallow pan for water drainage
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10000–15000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the HE code mean I have a High Efficiency washer?
Nope, and that's a really common mix-up. Samsung washers are high efficiency, sure, but HE as an error code is a completely different thing. It means Heating Error and it fires when the control board detects a problem in the heating circuit. It's got nothing to do with your detergent type or the efficiency rating of the machine. If someone told you to switch to HE detergent to fix this error code, that's not gonna do anything.
Can I still use the washer if I only select cold water cycles?
Honestly, probably not, and here's why. The control board does a quick circuit integrity check at the start of almost every cycle, not just hot ones. If it detects an open or short in the heating circuit, it'll lock out the whole machine regardless of what temp you picked. I know that's frustrating when you just want to wash a load of darks on cold. Some machines will let you sneak a cold cycle through occasionally, but don't count on it, and don't keep running it that way or you risk stressing the board further.
What's the difference between HE, HE1, and HE2?
They're all pointing at the same heating circuit, just different failure modes. HE and HE1 usually mean the water heated too fast or got dangerously hot, so the board shut it down to prevent damage. HE2 means the heater isn't doing anything at all, the board's waiting for temp to rise and it never does. In real practice though, the diagnostic steps are basically identical for all three. Start with the element and thermistor. Those two parts cover probably 85% of all HE variants on Samsung front-loaders.
Is it worth fixing an HE error on an older Samsung washer?
Usually yes, as long as the drum and bearings are still solid. A heating element runs $20-50 and a thermistor is maybe $5-15. Even if you bring in a tech, you're probably looking at $150-200 total for parts and labor, which is way better than a new machine. The one exception is if the main control board is also fried. That part can run $150-300 just for the board, and at that point the math gets trickier depending on the age and condition of the rest of the machine.
How do I reset the HE code after a repair?
Pull the plug for 3-5 minutes, then plug it back in. That's it. You don't need any special button sequence on most Samsung models. The code should be gone and the machine should start a new cycle clean. If it comes back right away, the repair didn't fully fix the underlying problem. Double-check your element and thermistor connections before assuming it's the board. Loose connector pins are responsible for more repeat service calls than bad parts, in my experience.
Models Known to Experience HE Errors
This repair applies to most Samsung washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: