Samsung dryer TE error code means the exhaust thermistor sent a reading outside its normal operating range. The thermistor is a temperature-sensitive resistor mounted on the exhaust duct inside the cabinet. At 77 degrees Fahrenheit it should measure approximately 27,000 ohms.
I see this code most often when a dryer suddenly stops heating or quits five minutes into a cycle. It's basically a small sensor on the blower housing that's given up. The control board won't fire the heater if it can't verify the actual temperature, so it throws TE and stops. Honestly, this is one of the most successful DIY repairs I see. Usually a $10-15 part and about 30 minutes of your time.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Multimeter with ohms setting (20k or 40k range)
What Does the TE Code Mean?
Think of the thermistor as your dryer's thermometer. When it fails, the brain of the machine goes blind. I've replaced probably a dozen of these in the last few months alone. They fail from wear and tear, or sometimes from a big lint buildup that caused localized overheating. Either way, it's a straightforward fix that'll save you a couple hundred bucks in labor if you do it yourself.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Failed thermistor (open or shorted) (60%)40%
Loose or corroded wiring harness connector (25%)24%
Control board input fault (5%)22%
Damaged thermistor wiring (10%)14%
Symptoms You May Notice
TE code on the display, usually right when you start a cycle or just a few minutes in before it quits
Dryer runs but there's zero heat, clothes tumble around for a full hour and come out just as wet as they went in
Sensor dry cycles won't work at all, but if you manually set timed dry you might get some heat back temporarily
Dryer starts and then just stops mid-cycle for no obvious reason, display shows TE when it quits
Can you reset a Samsung dryer to clear the TE code?
You can't just unplug and replug to clear a real TE code. If the sensor's actually bad, it'll come right back the moment you start a new cycle. Replace the thermistor first, then unplug the dryer for 60 seconds to clear the board's memory. Plug back in, start a test cycle, and if the repair worked the code won't return.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverMultimeter with ohms setting (20k or 40k range)Thin work glovesFlathead screwdriver (for prying wire connectors loose)
Service / Diagnostic Mode
With the dryer off, press and hold Temp Up + Temp Down simultaneously for 3 seconds until the display shows a test code. Not all Samsung models support this sequence, so check your specific model's service manual if the display doesn't respond.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range25000–29000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Exhaust ThermistorDC32-00007B · $10–$20
DC32-00007B
$10 – $20
Frequently Asked Questions
What should the thermistor resistance be on a Samsung dryer?
At 77 degrees you should see right around 27,000 ohms. If your laundry room is cooler, like 60 degrees, that number climbs to around 35,000 ohms. Resistance goes up as temperature drops, that's just how thermistors work. The key is that it's not open and it's not shorted. If your meter shows OL or 1 (open circuit) or something really low near zero (shorted), the internal element is toast and you need a new sensor.
Where is the thermistor on a Samsung dryer?
It's mounted directly on the blower housing, which is the big plastic ducting section near the bottom of the cabinet. You'll see a small white sensor held on by one screw with two wires coming off it. Access is from the back panel on most Samsung dryers. On a few older stackable units you might need to go through the front panel instead, but that's the exception. Once you pull the back panel, look toward the lower right side of the cabinet and you'll spot it pretty quickly.
Can a faulty thermistor cause my Samsung dryer to not heat?
Yep, that's basically the whole point of the TE code. The control board won't send voltage to the heating element or the gas valve if it can't get a valid reading from the thermistor. It's a safety lockout built into the board. Without temperature feedback, the board has no way to know if the dryer is at 100 degrees or 300 degrees, so it shuts off heating entirely rather than risk an overheat situation. Replace the sensor and the heat comes right back.
How much does it cost to fix a Samsung dryer TE error?
If you do it yourself, you're looking at $10-15 for the thermistor (part number DC32-00007B) and maybe 30-45 minutes of your time. If you call a tech, expect $150-250 depending on your area, because even though the part is cheap, the labor to diagnose and replace it is what costs you. This is honestly one of the best cases for a DIY repair. It's not complicated, there's no gas or high-voltage work involved in the actual sensor swap, and the part is easy to find.
Will the TE code clear on its own or do I have to reset it?
It won't clear on its own if the sensor is actually bad. Every time the board checks the thermistor and gets a bad reading, it'll throw the TE code again. Fix the root cause first, then unplug the dryer for about 60 seconds to clear the board's memory. After that, plug it back in and run a test cycle. If the repair worked, the code won't come back. If it does return immediately, you either have a wiring issue or the new sensor is defective, which is rare but happens with cheap aftermarket parts.
Is the TE code the same as tE or tE1 on Samsung dryers?
Pretty much, yeah. Samsung uses both 'TE' and 'tE' on different display types, and some models show 'tE1' specifically. They all point to the exhaust thermistor circuit. The tE1 specifically means the thermistor is reading a temperature that's out of expected range, not just a flat open or short circuit. Diagnosis and fix are basically identical across all three. Same sensor, same resistance check, same replacement part number.