Samsung Dishwasher SE Error: Drain Fault (Older Firmware)
Quick Answer
The SE error code on a Samsung dishwasher indicates a drain fault, often caused by a clogged filter or a failing drain pump. To fix it, first inspect the sump area and drain hose for blockages.
When I show up for an SE code on one of these older Samsungs, nine times out of ten the machine's been running fine for years and something finally hit a tipping point. Could be the filter mesh just got too gunked up, could be the pump impeller picked up a piece of glass. Ignore this one and you're looking at mold buildup from standing water, plus the pump motor working harder than it should every cycle until it burns out completely.
What catches a lot of homeowners off guard is that the main filter might look totally clean but the machine still throws the SE code. These older Samsung sumps have a secondary mesh screen deeper inside that loves to trap hair and grease over time. If you're hearing a faint clicking or humming but the water just sits there, you're probably dealing with a physical blockage rather than a fried control board. And honestly? That's good news, because cleaning stuff is free.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Drain pump mesh clogged with accumulated debris over years40%
Filter basket blocked24%
Drain hose kinked at rear of machine14%
Pump motor worn out on older unit12%
Drain pump impeller jammed10%
Symptoms You May Notice
SE code flashes at the end of the wash cycle or right as the drain phase kicks in, stopping the whole cycle dead in its tracks.
Open the door and there's an inch or two of dirty gray water sitting in the bottom of the tub that just won't go anywhere.
Machine stops partway through a cycle with water still inside and won't restart without you manually clearing the code first.
You can hear a low humming or buzzing sound during the drain phase but the water level doesn't drop at all.
Dishes come out with gritty residue or smell kind of funky because they've been sitting in dirty standing water instead of draining clean.
Can you reset a Samsung dishwasher to clear the SE code?
Press and hold the Start or Cancel button for three to five seconds until the display clears. If the tub's still got standing water in it, you've got to get that out first or the code'll come right back within minutes. Use a shop vac or a big cup and some towels to empty the tub manually. Once the water's gone and the code is cleared, run a short rinse-only cycle and watch it. If SE pops back up in the first couple minutes, you've still got a blockage or a pump problem that needs addressing before the machine'll stay happy.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlashlight or headlampThick rubber or work glovesOld toothbrush or small parts brushShop vac (for removing standing water)Bucket or large cupTowels
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Drain PumpDD31-00005A · $30–$52
DD31-00005A
$30 – $52
Frequently Asked Questions
Is SE the same as SC on Samsung dishwashers?
Yeah, basically. SE was the original drain fault code Samsung used on their older models from the early 2010s. When they updated the firmware and control boards on newer units the code changed to 5C and then SC on current production models. The underlying problem is identical though. Same drain pump, same plumbing layout, same fix. If you're searching for parts or repair guides and coming up empty, try searching SC or 5C instead. You'll find way more info that way, and a lot of the parts are interchangeable across these generations anyway.
My Samsung dishwasher shows SE but the pump is running. What's wrong?
Classic scenario and I see it constantly on service calls. If you can hear the motor spinning but the water level isn't dropping, the impeller has either separated from the motor shaft or something's wedged in the pump housing preventing it from actually moving water. Before you buy anything, take the drain hose off at the sink connection and blow through it. Hard to blow through? You've got a clog in the line, not a dead pump. Blows through easy? Then the impeller or pump housing is your problem and you're probably looking at replacing part DD31-00005A.
Can I just ignore the SE code for a while?
You can, but it's a bad idea. Standing water in the tub is basically a mold farm, and that smell gets into your dishes and your whole kitchen pretty fast. More practically, if the pump is working harder than it should because of a partial blockage, you're burning it out faster than you need to. A pump replacement on these older Samsungs runs about $40-70 for the part plus your time. Ignoring a clog you could clear in 20 minutes and turning it into a full pump replacement is an expensive mistake I see people make all the time.
How often should I clean the filter to prevent the SE code?
Once a month is what I tell everyone, no exceptions. Takes maybe five minutes. Pull the filter, scrub it under the sink, drop it back in. If you're running the dishwasher daily or you've got hard water, bump that up to every two or three weeks. The secondary mesh screen in the sump area you probably only need to address once or twice a year. But honestly, most of the SE calls I go on are machines where the filter hasn't been touched in a year or more. Just make it a habit when you're cleaning the kitchen on a weekend.
How much does it cost to replace the drain pump on an older Samsung dishwasher?
The pump itself, part number DD31-00005A, runs around $40 to $65 depending on where you source it. If you're comfortable pulling the dishwasher out and doing the job yourself, that's your total cost plus an hour or two of your time. If you're calling a tech out, you're probably looking at $150 to $250 total with labor, which starts to get close to the replacement value of an older unit. On a machine that's 8-plus years old, I'd always say try the cleaning steps first because a solid chunk of SE codes are just maintenance issues, not actual pump failures.
Why does the SE code come back right after I reset it?
Because the reset just clears the fault flag, it doesn't fix whatever caused the drain failure. If your drain path is still blocked or your pump still can't move water, the machine's going to detect the problem within the first couple minutes of the next cycle and throw SE right back at you. Think of it like dismissing a check engine light without fixing the car. You need to actually clean the filter, check the sump mesh, inspect the hose, and listen to the pump before that code's going to stay gone for good.