Whirlpool Glass Top Stove Element Replacement Guide
Quick Answer
A radiant element is a heating coil that sits flush against the underside of your glass cooktop to transfer heat. The telltale sign of failure is a burner that stays completely cold or only heats up on one side while the indicator light on the panel remains lit.
Look, a dead burner is annoying but a partially-shorted element is how you end up buying a $400 control board. I've shown up to jobs where someone cooked on a barely-working burner for months and the heat stress fried the wiring harness too. Fix it now while it's a $50 part swap. Not later when it's a full diagnostic job.
Most of these radiant elements last 10-15 years, but Whirlpool's WFE and WEE series cooktops tend to see failures around year 7 or 8, usually on whichever burner you use the most. It's honestly one of the better DIY repairs out there. An hour of your time, a $45-70 part, and you're done instead of dropping $300 on a service call.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Resistive ribbon burnout60%
Thermal limiter failure25%
Corroded wiring terminals15%
Symptoms You May Notice
The burner is completely dead and stays cold no matter what setting you pick, but the surface indicator light on the panel still lights up like everything's normal
You set it on high and only half the element glows, so your pan gets scorching hot on one side and barely warm on the other
You heard a loud pop or crack from under the glass and now that burner's either dead or acting completely erratic
There's a visible dark burn mark or a black spot in the glass surface directly above where the element coil sits
The burner takes forever to get water boiling, like 20-25 minutes instead of the usual 8-10, and never really feels like it's working at full strength
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverDigital multimeterNeedle-nose pliersCut-resistant mechanics glovesFlashlight or headlampSmartphone (for wiring reference photos)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range20–80 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Radiant Surface Element (Large 9-inch Dual)WPW10127324 · $65–$140
WPW10127324
$65 – $140
Radiant Surface Element (Small 6-inch)WPW10210213 · $45–$90
WPW10210213
$45 – $90
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an aftermarket element instead of OEM Whirlpool?
You can, but honestly I'd just spend the extra $15-20 for the OEM part. Radiant elements are calibrated to specific wattage and thermal limiter settings for your exact glass thickness. I've put in plenty of aftermarket elements that worked fine for a year and then started running too hot or cycling erratically. And if an aftermarket element runs too hot, it can stress-crack the glass above it, and that cooktop replacement is $300 or more. The OEM Whirlpool element for most of these models runs $45-65. It's just not worth gambling on a $25 knockoff.
Why does my new element turn on and off frequently?
That's totally normal. The thermal limiter cycles power on and off to keep the glass from overheating and cracking. You'll see it glow, go dark for a few seconds, then come back up. That's the safety system doing its job correctly. What you're watching for is whether it's actually heating your cookware. If a pot of water is getting to a boil in a reasonable time, you're fine. But if the element cycles off almost immediately and the glass barely gets warm, that's a different problem, maybe a limiter tripping too early or a loose connection issue.
My burner is stuck on high heat. Is the element bad?
Probably not the element. If it's pegged at full heat no matter where you turn the knob, that's almost always the infinite switch behind the control knob that's shorted internally. The infinite switch is what actually controls the power level, the element just either has resistance or it doesn't. Pull the knob off and look for any discoloration or burning around the switch shaft. Replacing an infinite switch is actually simpler than replacing the element, it's about a 20-minute job, and the part runs $25-45 for most Whirlpool models.
Is it safe to use the stove if one burner is dead?
Depends on how it died. If the burner just stopped working quietly with no sparks and no burning smell, you can usually keep using the other burners while you wait on the part. But if it went out with a loud pop or you smelled something burning, don't use the stove at all until it's fixed. A shorted element wire can sit against the metal frame and cause bigger problems. I've also seen a failed element create enough electrical weirdness on the shared circuit to mess with the control board. Just order the part, it's usually only a few days.
How do I find the right replacement element part number for my model?
Open your oven door and look at the label on the door frame, usually on the left side. Your model number is right there, something like WFE515S0ES or WEE730H0DS. Take that exact model number to a parts site and search for surface element or radiant element. Whirlpool part numbers usually start with W10 or WPW10. And make sure you're ordering the right one for the specific burner that failed because your large and small burners are completely different parts with different wattage ratings. They're not interchangeable and the wrong one won't fit the mounting bracket anyway.
Models Known to Experience GLASSTOP-ELEMENT Errors
This repair applies to most Whirlpool ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include: