F27 on Whirlpool Washer: Overflow Fault
Quick Answer
F27 is an overflow error usually caused by a clogged pressure sensor tube, a faulty pressure switch, or a water inlet valve that won't shut off. Start by checking the thin plastic tube for clogs or holes, as this is the most common fix.
F27 is one of those codes you can't just reset and ignore. If a stuck inlet valve is behind it, water keeps flooding in whether the machine's on or off. I've seen this turn a laundry room into a wading pool in under an hour. Most of the time it's just a pressure hose plugged with soap gunk, basically a free fix. But you've got to rule out the valve first.
What Does the F27 Code Mean?
OK so your washer thinks it's flooding. Maybe it actually is. The F27 trips when water goes above max fill level, and your first job is figuring out if that's real or a false alarm from a clogged sensor hose. I always kill the supply valves at the wall before I do anything else. Takes two seconds and can save your floor. Most of these calls I go on, it's the pressure hose. Five-minute fix.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Symptoms You May Notice
- Cycle stops dead mid-wash, F27 flashes on the display, and you can't get the machine to respond to any button.
- Water sitting well above the agitator, visibly higher than it ever is on a normal wash.
- You can still hear water running into the tub even after the error code stopped the cycle.
- Actual water on the floor around the machine, anywhere from a small puddle to a real mess.
- Lid locked tight and machine refuses to start any new cycle, just sits there blinking F27 at you.
Can you reset a Whirlpool washer to clear the F27 code?
Unplug the washer and leave it unplugged for a full ten minutes. Don't just pull the plug and jam it right back in. Use that time to confirm the supply valves are open and no water is entering the tub on its own. Plug it back in, run Drain and Spin first to clear out any leftover water, then try a normal cycle. If F27 comes right back, the pressure hose isn't fully cleared yet.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Service / Diagnostic Mode
With the washer in standby, press any three buttons (except Power) in a 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 sequence. All lights will illuminate if you entered correctly.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
| Part Name | OEM Number | Estimated Price |
|---|---|---|
| Water Inlet ValveWPW10346771 · $30–$55 | WPW10346771 | $30 – $55 |
| Pressure SwitchWPW10514214 · $25–$45 | WPW10514214 | $25 – $45 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can F27 appear even if the tub isn't actually overflowing?
How do I know if my Whirlpool inlet valve is stuck open?
Is F27 dangerous to ignore?
What does the pressure switch actually do and where do I find it?
How much is this repair going to cost me total?
Related Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
Same Fix on Other Brands
Models Known to Experience F27 Errors
This repair applies to most Whirlpool washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:
WTW4816FW, WTW5000DW, WTW7000DW, WTW4850HW, WTW6120HW, WTW8000DW, WTW5500XW2, WTW7300DW0
Last verified for technical accuracy on March 14, 2026