The F27 code means your washer thinks it is about to flood. This is usually triggered by a faulty water inlet valve that will not close or a clogged pressure sensor tube giving a false reading.
When your Maytag throws F27, it's basically slamming on the brakes to stop a flood. The drain pump kicks on hard and the machine won't budge until you fix the root cause. Ignore it and you're risking a soaked floor, a burned-out pump motor, or water getting into the control board. I've seen F27 come from a $3 hose clog and I've seen it from a $150 inlet valve. Gotta diagnose it first.
This code is your washer saying it's got too much water in the drum, or thinks it does. I've seen this happen constantly when someone switches detergent brands and doesn't realize the new stuff is ultra-concentrated, so they're basically pouring in three times the suds. If the drum is actually dry but the code's still showing, you've got a sensor or wiring issue rather than a real overflow.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Clogged or kinked pressure hose40%
Faulty water inlet valve30%
Excessive suds from wrong detergent15%
Failed pressure switch or sensor10%
Main control board failure5%
Symptoms You May Notice
The drain pump runs nonstop, you can hear it humming even 20 minutes after the cycle stopped.
Machine's completely locked out, won't start any cycle at all.
Water standing in the drum when the washer's been off for hours.
Cycle stops dead mid-fill, sometimes with the drum only a few inches deep in water.
Soapy film or foam visible through the door glass even after the water drains out.
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F27 code?
Unplug your Maytag from the wall and leave it for at least 5 minutes. While you wait, shut off both the hot and cold water supply valves behind the machine. Plug it back in, turn the water on, and see if F27 comes back. Run a short rinse-and-spin cycle to confirm it's actually cleared. If the code comes right back before the drum even fills, you've got a hardware fault that a reset won't fix.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driver5/16 inch nut driverDigital multimeterNeedle-nose pliers2-gallon bucketOld towels or rags
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range200–500 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use my washer if it shows F27?
Honestly, don't try it. F27 is a safety lockout and the machine won't let you start a new cycle anyway. But even if you could override it, you'd be risking a flooded laundry room or burning out the drain pump from running it nonstop. That pump isn't designed to run continuously for hours and it'll overheat. Fix the root cause first. It usually takes less than an hour once you figure out what you're dealing with.
Will a reset fix the F27 error permanently?
Sometimes, yeah. If you had a power surge or a one-time suds situation, a reset clears it and it doesn't come back. But if there's a physical problem like a clogged hose, a leaking valve, or a dead pressure switch, the code'll be back within one or two cycles. Think of the reset as your first diagnostic step, not the fix itself. If it comes right back, something's actually broken.
Why is my washer draining even when I turn it off?
That's the overflow protection mode doing exactly what it's supposed to do. The control board's programmed to keep the drain pump running whenever it detects F27, even if you hit the power button, because it's trying to get the water out before it spills. The only way to stop the pump is to unplug the machine from the wall. That's totally normal behavior for this fault code, nothing's additionally broken.
How much does it cost to fix an F27 error?
If it's just a clogged pressure hose, it's free basically, maybe 30 minutes of your time. A replacement pressure hose is under $10. A new pressure switch runs $20 to $40 for the part. The inlet valve is your most expensive fix, usually $40 to $80 for the part, and if you're paying a tech to come out you're probably looking at $150 to $250 total with labor. Both the pressure switch and inlet valve are pretty straightforward DIY repairs if you're comfortable with basic tools.
Can the wrong detergent really cause F27?
Yes, and it's honestly one of the most common causes I see on service calls. Regular non-HE detergent in a front-loader or HE top-loader creates way more suds than the machine can handle. Those suds get into the pressure tube and physically block it, so the switch can't read the actual water level and defaults to the highest reading. Switch to HE detergent and use less than the cap says, like half of what the fill line shows. These machines use way less water than old top-loaders and they don't need nearly as much soap.
Models Known to Experience F27 Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: