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ErrBase

Maytag Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Maytag error codes.

161 error codes across 5 appliance types

Dishwasher

View all 16 codes →
CodeMeaning
10-1The control board sent voltage to open the detergent dispenser door and got no confirmation back. Either the wax motor that physically pushes the latch open has failed, or there's a break somewhere in the wiring between the board and the dispenser.
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E1 F9The drain cycle ran but water level in the tub didn't drop within the timeout window. Same fault as F9 E1, just displayed in reversed order on some Maytag control board firmware versions.
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F6 E1The water level sensor did not detect sufficient water in the tub after the fill valve was commanded to open during the fill cycle
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F8 E4The wash motor circuit has faulted. The motor failed to start, drew a current spike, or the motor control relay on the board failed. Basically the control board tried to spin the motor, didn't see the expected RPM response, and threw its hands up.
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F8-E2The control board is checking the drain pump circuit and getting back a reading that doesn't make sense. Either the resistance is off, the motor's drawing too many amps, or it's not drawing any at all. The board detects that and shuts everything down rather than burn something out.
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FA E4The FA E4 code means water got into the plastic base pan sitting below the dishwasher tub. FA is the flood alert system, and E4 tells you the anti-flood sensor specifically triggered. When that sensor gets wet, the machine shuts itself down to keep water from reaching your floor.
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H2OThe H2O code means your dishwasher timed out waiting for water. The control board powers the inlet valve and waits for the float switch to confirm the tub is filling. If that signal doesn't come within about 4 minutes, the board shuts down the cycle to protect the pump from running dry.
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HUBHub page covering all Maytag dishwasher error codes on the Whirlpool DTM platform with Maytag-specific diagnostic angles
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LEAKINGYour Maytag dishwasher is losing water somewhere in its wash system, either through the door seal, the spray arm, the water inlet connection, or the pump internals. The machine can't tell you exactly where, so you have to trace it yourself by watching where the puddle forms relative to the machine.
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NOISEYour Maytag's complaining because something inside the wash system is either obstructed, worn out, or hitting something it shouldn't. The chopper blade, spray arms, drain pump impeller, and circulation motor are all suspects depending on what kind of noise you're hearing and exactly when during the cycle it happens.
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NORMAL-LIGHT-FLASHINGThe control board expected the water to hit a target temperature within a specific window during the wash cycle. When it didn't get there, or the door signal dropped out, or power got interrupted mid-run, it threw a fault and started flashing that Normal light to tell you the cycle stalled.
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NOT-CLEANINGThe dishwasher's completing its cycle but water isn't hitting dishes with enough pressure or the right temperature to actually do the job. Usually something's restricting water flow, the spray arms can't spin or spray properly, or the water isn't getting hot enough to activate the detergent.
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NOT-DRAININGThe drain pump can't push water out of the sump and through the drain hose. Either something physical is blocking the path, the pump motor itself gave out, or a check valve is stuck closed. Water just sits there because it's got nowhere to go.
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NOT-DRYINGYour Maytag isn't blowing hot air to dry dishes. It's heating rinse water to around 160°F, then relying on physics to pull moisture off the dishes onto the cooler stainless walls. When the heating element fails or rinse aid runs out, that whole condensation process stops working.
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SMELLSYour Maytag's drain filter, door gasket, or drain hose is trapping old food particles and moisture. Bacteria grow on that organic material and off-gas sulfur compounds. That's the smell. It's not a mechanical failure, it's basically a tiny rotting food problem living in your dishwasher.
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WONT-STARTYour Maytag's control system detected a condition that prevents the wash cycle from beginning. Could be the door switch telling the board the door's open, a blown safety fuse cutting all power, or the control panel locked out. The machine's basically refusing to run until it gets a safe-to-go signal from all its sensors.
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Dryer

View all 16 codes →
CodeMeaning
F01 E1 indicates a primary control board fault on Maytag electric and gas dryers. The code signals that the main PCB has failed its internal diagnostic check and can no longer reliably manage dryer operations. The machine will refuse to start or will stop mid-cycle and will not recover on its own.
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AFAF stands for Air Flow. The control board monitors how fast temperature rises inside the drum. When air can't move fast enough through the exhaust system, heat backs up and temps spike faster than they should. The board sees that spike and throws the AF code to shut things down before you end up with a damaged heater or worse.
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DRYER-MOTORThe drive motor spins the drum and turns the blower wheel that pushes hot air through your clothes. It's also got a built-in centrifugal switch that tells the heater it's safe to kick on. No motor means no heat and no tumbling. Pretty much everything stops at once.
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DRYER-NO-SPINThe heating circuit's working fine but the mechanical drive system has failed. Either the belt snapped, a pulley seized, or something's physically blocking the drum from turning. Motor's spinning, heat's on, but nothing's actually moving your clothes around.
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F01The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault or has failed. The control board is the central computer managing all dryer functions including cycle timing, heat control, and motor operation.
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F3 E3The moisture sensor bars inside the drum have stopped working correctly. They're either coated with fabric softener residue that blocks conductivity, or the sensor assembly itself has failed. The dryer can't figure out when the laundry's actually dry.
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HUBReference guide for all F and E fault codes across Maytag's MED and MGD dryer lineup. When two codes flash alternately on your display, the machine's telling you exactly which subsystem failed. Same underlying platform as Whirlpool, so the fault logic maps cleanly across both brands.
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L2L2 means the control board detected only one of the two 120V power legs it needs. Dryers require the full 240V to fire the heating element. You've got half the power coming in, so the motor runs fine but the heater's completely dead.
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NOISEYour Maytag's drum needs rollers, a drive belt, and a tensioner pulley to spin quietly. When any of those components wear out, they start making noise under load. The type of noise actually tells you which part is failing. Thumping is usually rollers. Squealing is the idler pulley or belt. Rattling is blower or drum debris.
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NOT-HEATINGYour dryer's motor is spinning and the drum is turning, but the heating circuit is broken somewhere. Could be a safety device that tripped, a burned-out element, or a gas component that quit. The drum runs fine because heat and motor run on completely separate circuits inside the machine.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe drum isn't rotating because something in the mechanical drive system failed, usually the belt, idler pulley, or occasionally the motor's thermal overload tripped. The motor itself is probably fine and still running. It just has nothing physically connecting it to the drum anymore.
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NOT-TURNING-OFFYour dryer uses two metal sensor bars inside the drum to detect moisture in the fabric. When those bars stop reading correctly, or when the timer motor or control board relay gets stuck in the 'on' position, the machine has no way to know the cycle is done. So it just keeps going.
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SMELLS-BURNINGYour dryer is detecting or producing abnormal heat caused by restricted airflow, lint ignition, or mechanical friction from worn components. Basically the machine's telling you that something is getting hotter than it should, whether that's backed-up exhaust heat, coils touching lint, or a belt slipping on a seized pulley.
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TAKING-LONGYour dryer's not finishing because heat's either not being generated, not staying in the drum long enough due to poor airflow, or the moisture sensors are telling the machine clothes are already dry when they're still damp. Something broke in that heat-airflow-sensing loop.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGGeneral troubleshooting for the Maytag 3000 Series front-load dryer. Most issues come down to the thermal fuse, drive belt, door switch, or drum rollers rather than any electronic fault in the control board.
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WONT-STARTWhen your Maytag dryer won't start, it means one of the safety or power delivery circuits has opened up and the control board isn't sending voltage to the motor. Could be a blown fuse, a dead switch, a snapped belt, or even a half-tripped breaker. The machine's not wrecked, it's just got a broken link in the chain.
moderate

Oven

View all 15 codes →
CodeMeaning
BURNER-FAILSomewhere in that burner's circuit there's a break, whether it's inside the coil itself, at the receptacle block it plugs into, or in the infinite switch that controls power to that burner position. The stove just can't push continuous current to the heating element, so nothing happens when you turn the knob.
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BURNER-REPLACEYour heating element burned out. Either the coil developed a break in the resistance wire or the radiant element under your glass top shorted internally. The circuit's open, so no current flows, no heat. Pretty simple failure, actually.
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F1F1 on a Maytag oven means the control board ran its internal self-test at startup and couldn't complete it. The board's own logic is the problem, not a sensor or a door switch. It's a catch-all fault for anything wrong inside that brain.
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F1 E0The EEPROM is a tiny memory chip on the control board that holds all your oven's calibration data, settings, and operating instructions. When F1 E0 fires, that chip either got corrupted by a voltage spike or physically died. The oven basically has no idea what to do because it can't read its own instructions anymore.
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F2F2 means the control board detected temps above safe limits, usually over 600°F in the oven cavity. Either the oven's actually that hot because a relay's welded shut and won't cycle off, or the temperature sensor is reading way too high and sending bad data to the board.
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F3F3 means the oven temperature sensor has an open circuit. The control board is trying to read resistance from that probe in the back wall of the oven cavity, and it's getting nothing back. Infinite resistance. The sensor wire has broken somewhere.
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F5F5 on a Maytag oven indicates a door latch fault - the latch did not reach the expected position during self-clean lock or unlock. The latch motor ran but the position switch did not confirm completion.
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F6 E1F6 E1 means the main control board lost the signal it expects from the user interface or the touchpad. The board's constantly listening for handshake signals from the keypad assembly. When those signals go silent or come back garbled, the board throws this code and shuts everything down rather than run blind.
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F7F7 on a Maytag oven means the control board's detecting a function key that won't let go. Bake, Broil, Self-Clean, one of those keys is registering as continuously pressed, either because the membrane's fused or there's a short somewhere in the input circuit.
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KNOB-REPLACEMaytag cooktop knob replacement refers to the process of swapping out damaged, melted, or stripped control dials on a range or cooktop surface. This is a common maintenance task required when the internal plastic 'D-clip' fails and no longer grips the metal valve stem.
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MAYTAG-BURNER-FAILWhen a Maytag burner fails, there's a break somewhere in the circuit that should carry electricity to the heating coil. Could be the coil itself, the plug-in receptacle, the infinite switch, or the wiring behind the panel. Gas models fail differently, usually at the igniter electrode or spark module.
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MAYTAG-GLASS-TOP-REPLACEThe glass top replacement process involves removing the damaged ceramic cooktop surface and transferring the radiant heating elements and wiring harnesses to a new glass assembly.
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NOT-HEATINGThe oven's heating circuit isn't completing. In electric models, current can't flow through the bake element to generate heat. In gas models, the igniter isn't drawing enough amperage to signal the gas valve to open, so there's no flame even though the burner is trying to fire.
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PROBLEMSThis isn't a single error code, it's a guide to the three or four most common failure points on Maytag gas ranges. The core issues usually come down to the igniter circuit, gas delivery through the valve or ports, or the control system. All of these are fixable by a homeowner with basic tools and about an hour of time.
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WONT-STARTThe oven isn't getting the power or control signal it needs to kick off a heating cycle. Could be a supply problem at the breaker, a blown thermal fuse that cut power as a safety measure, a locked control panel someone accidentally triggered, or a failed component like the igniter or bake element.
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Refrigerator

View all 7 codes →
CodeMeaning
AIRFLOW-FAULTCold air is generated in the freezer and pushed through a duct into the fresh food section by a small fan. When something blocks that path, whether it's ice, a stuck damper, or a dead fan motor, the fridge warms up even though the freezer keeps working fine.
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COMPRESSOR-OFFThe compressor is the heart of your fridge's cooling system. It's supposed to run in cycles, compressing refrigerant and pushing cold through the system. When it won't start, the whole cooling loop stops dead, even if the fans and lights are still going like everything's fine.
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FRZ-COLD-REF-WARMThe sealed system's cooling fine, but cold air isn't making it into your fresh food compartment. Think of it like the freezer's hogging all the cold. There's a fan and a duct that's supposed to push that cold air over to the fridge side, and something in that path is broken, blocked, or frozen solid.
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ICE-MAKERThe ice maker isn't producing ice. Either it's not getting water, the freezer temp is outside the 0-5°F window the harvest thermostat needs to close, the motor module has failed, or the arm or sensor is telling the unit the bin is full when it isn't.
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MAYTAG-FILTER-REPLACEWhen the filter reminder fires, the internal timer hit the six-month mark or the flow sensor detected enough restriction that it's flagging a swap. The activated carbon media inside the cartridge is saturated and can't catch chlorine, sediment, or heavy metals the way it used to.
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NOT-COOLINGA Maytag refrigerator not cooling means the refrigeration cycle has broken down at one or more points: the condenser coils cannot reject heat, the evaporator fan cannot circulate cold air into the fresh food section, the defrost system has iced over the evaporator coil, or the compressor or sealed system has lost pressure and refrigerant.
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WARM-FRIDGE-COLD-FREEZERCold air is being generated in the freezer but isn't making it to the fridge section. Something's physically blocking or stopping that airflow transfer, whether it's a frozen evaporator coil, a dead fan motor, or a damper stuck shut.
high

Washer

View all 107 codes →
CodeMeaning
5dThe 5d error code, which often looks like Sd on the digital display, indicates that the control board has detected an excessive amount of soap suds in the wash tub, preventing the unit from draining or spinning properly.
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5dThe 5d code, which looks like SD on a lot of displays, fires when the control board's sensors detect foam thick enough to air-lock the drain pump. The machine literally can't push suds out the same way it pushes water. So it stalls the whole cycle to keep the motor from burning up trying.
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BANGING-SPINThe wash tub is physically striking the outer cabinet or frame because the suspension system can no longer keep it centered during high-speed spin. Usually it's the rods, sometimes it's an unlevel machine amplifying normal vibration into a full-on collision.
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BRAVOS-HUBThese codes tell you the control board lost communication with, or got an unexpected reading from, a specific component. F7E1 means the motor controller's not seeing a proper speed signal. F5E2 means the lid lock circuit couldn't confirm the lid engaged. F0E3 means the tub's overfull or the water level sensor got confused. LOC just means child lock got switched on.
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BRAVOS-NO-SPINThe Bravos won't spin because something broke the chain between the control board and the drive system. Either the lid lock can't confirm it's closed, the shift actuator can't physically move the splutch into spin position, or the drive hub stripped and the basket just sits there while the shaft spins underneath it doing nothing.
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BRAVOS-NO-SPINThis isn't one error code on a screen. It's the machine refusing to enter high-speed spin because something in the drive chain broke down, whether that's the lid lock signal, the shift actuator's position feedback, or a mechanical failure like a snapped belt or seized bearing.
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CENTENNIAL-DIAGMaytag Centennial top-load washers (MVWC series) use a lid-close sequence to enter diagnostic mode. The machine stores fault codes from recent cycles that can be read using LED blink patterns on the control panel.
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CENTENNIAL-HUBF7E1 fires when the control board can't detect basket rotation from the shift actuator's Hall effect sensor. The lid lock code means the door latch can't confirm closure. LOC means the control lock is engaged. All three are communication failures between sensors and the main board, not motor failures.
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CLCL on a Maytag washer means Control Lock is activated. It's NOT an error code, it's a feature. Control Lock disables all buttons to prevent accidental changes during a cycle or to child-proof the washer. It shows up when someone's accidentally held the lock button just long enough to trigger it.
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COMMERCIAL-HUBThe control board detected an out-of-range signal from a sensor or actuator and killed the cycle to prevent more damage. Instead of a text display, these models communicate faults through a specific LED flash pattern on the console. Decode the blink sequence and you'll know exactly which circuit failed.
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DIAGNOSTIC-MODEMaytag washers (manufactured by Whirlpool) include a diagnostic service mode that retrieves stored fault codes from recent wash cycles. The entry method differs between top-load and front-load models but both produce the same F/E or F digit fault codes.
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DL/FThe control board sent power to engage the door lock and never got confirmation back that it actually locked. Could be a bad lock assembly, a burned relay on the Neptune board, or just a wiring issue. DL/F is the older code format for what newer Maytags call F5 E2.
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E-DLThe E DL (or dL) code indicates a Door Lock failure. The main control board has attempted to lock the lid at least six times without success and has timed out for safety.
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E01 F09Overfill condition or excessively long fill time detected. The pressure switch detected water rising above the expected maximum level, or the washer filled for too long without the pressure switch confirming the correct water level.
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E2 F3The thermistor circuit is open. The control board sent a signal expecting a resistance reading from the temp sensor and got nothing back, so it threw the code and stopped the cycle.
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E3E3 on Maytag washers indicates a motor-related fault. Like Whirlpool E-codes, E3 is typically the second part of an F/E pair. The most common context is F0 E3 (load size exceeded) or a standalone E3 on older models meaning motor overcurrent protection tripped.
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EDL1The EDL1 code (often read as dL1) indicates a Lid Lock Failure. The control board has attempted to lock the lid but failed to receive the 'Locked' signal from the switch within the allotted time.
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EPIC-SPIN-FAILYour Epic's control board is refusing to start or complete the spin cycle because it's not getting the signal it needs, whether that's a confirmed door lock, a clear drain path, or a working connection to the motor control unit. One of those three things is almost always the culprit.
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EPIC-Z-RESETWhen your Epic Z needs a reset, the central control unit's gotten itself into a fault loop it can't escape on its own. Basically the board froze, holding onto a bad sensor reading or incomplete cycle data. Pulling power forces it to dump that garbage from memory and start completely fresh.
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EPIQ-NO-SPINWhen the Epiq won't spin, the control board tried to shift the splutch into high-speed spin mode but either the lid lock never confirmed it was secure, or the shift actuator failed to physically move the splutch. The motor gets the signal but the basket doesn't follow.
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F0 E2F0 E2 is Maytag's oversuds fault. The control board reads the pressure sensor and sees there's way too much foam in the tub for the machine to drain or spin properly. It's basically the washer throwing up its hands and saying it can't work in these conditions.
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F0 E2The control board detected an excessive load condition. Motor drawing too much current or drum speed significantly below target due to weight.
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F0 E3The pressure switch is sending signals the control board can't interpret as valid. Basically your washer's water-level sensor is either sending no signal, the wrong signal, or bouncing between values. Could be the switch itself, but way more often it's the air path leading to the switch that's the problem.
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F0 E7F0 E7 means Load Detected During Calibration. The control board runs a calibration sequence to learn how the empty drum moves and spins. When it senses weight, the whole thing stops and throws this code. It's basically the board saying 'this doesn't match what I expected during setup.'
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F01F01 means the Central Control Unit detected an internal logic failure or EEPROM corruption. Basically the board's memory chip either got zapped, developed a bad solder joint, or just wore out and can't read or write the firmware it needs to run wash cycles anymore.
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F03 E01The control board can't figure out how much water's in the tub. It's supposed to get that info from the pressure switch, which reads tiny air pressure changes in a sealed hose connected to the outer tub. Something's broken in that chain.
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F1F1 means the main control board ran an internal self-check and failed it, usually tied to the integrated pressure sensor circuit or a corrupted EEPROM chip. The board shuts the machine down immediately rather than risk running a cycle with bad water-level data.
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F1F1 means the main control board detected an internal fault, usually a corrupted EEPROM or a failed logic circuit that can't read or execute its own instructions. Think of it like a hard drive crash inside the machine's brain.
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F2 E2F2 E2 on a Maytag washer means the user interface board can't talk to the central control unit. The UI board is the panel where you pick cycles and hit Start. It sends commands to the main CCU board through a ribbon cable, and when that connection breaks down, you get this fault.
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F21Long drain timeout. The control board expected the tub to empty within 8 minutes but water is still detected. Drain pump ran but could not empty the tub.
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F22F22 fires when the control board sends voltage to the door lock solenoid, waits for a confirmation signal back, and doesn't get one. Could be a dead solenoid, a broken strike the pin can't grab, or a wiring issue somewhere between the latch and the board.
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F27The F27 error code indicates that the central control unit has detected an overflow condition, meaning the water level has exceeded the maximum safety limit programmed into the machine.
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F3 E1The pressure transducer sends a changing electrical signal as water rises in the tub. When the control board sees a reading outside its expected range, it throws F3 E1 and shuts down. Either the sensor's dead, the air tube carrying pressure to it is blocked or leaking, or the wiring between them lost connection.
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F4 E1F4 E1 means the main control board detected a problem in the water heating circuit. Something in the loop isn't communicating right, either the heating element's open, the NTC thermistor's reading outside normal range, or the relay on the control board isn't closing when it's supposed to.
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F4 E4F4 E4 means the control board fired the heater circuit but didn't see the water temperature climb like it should. Something broke the electrical path, whether it's the element itself, the sensor that reads the water temp, or the relay that sends power to the whole thing.
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F5F5 on a Maytag washer is the door/lid lock system fault category. The F5 is always followed by a sub-code (E2, E3, or E4) that specifies the exact lock failure. F5 E2 means the lock circuit did not complete (lock did not engage). F5 E3 means the lock engaged but the door/lid switch did not confirm closure. F5 E4 means the unlock circuit failed (door stuck locked).
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F5 E1The F5 E1 error code indicates a lid lock failure where the washer control board is unable to lock the lid or cannot verify that the lid is securely closed and locked.
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F5 E1 / F7 E1The washer's control board has detected a functional failure, most commonly involving the lid lock assembly (F5 E1) or the shift actuator (F7 E1), preventing the cycle from starting or completing.
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F5 E2F5 E2 means the control board tried to lock the lid, got no confirmation it actually happened, and gave up. That confirmation comes from a small switch inside the lock assembly. When the solenoid fires and the switch doesn't close, the board sees an open circuit and kills the cycle before it even starts.
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F5 E2The main control board can't lock the lid or can't confirm it locked. Simple as that. The washer won't let itself start sensing or agitating until it gets that confirmation signal back from the lock switch. No signal, no cycle.
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F5 E2The control board tried to engage the lid lock multiple times and never got the locked signal back from the switch inside the latch. Could be mechanical, could be electrical. Either way the board won't let the cycle run without knowing that lid is secure.
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F5 E2The control board sent a lock command but never got the 'locked' confirmation signal back. Basically the lid lock solenoid tried to fire, the locking pin didn't make it home, and the switch inside never closed the circuit to tell the board everything was good.
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F5 E3The control board sent an unlock signal to the lid lock solenoid but the position sensor never confirmed the bolt moved. Either the solenoid coil is dead, the sensor's failed, or something physical is blocking the bolt from sliding back into the open position.
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F51The F51 error code on a Maytag Bravos washer indicates a Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) failure, where the control board cannot accurately track the motor's speed or position.
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F51F51 means the main control board lost contact with the Rotor Position Sensor. The RPS sends pulses back to the board with every rotation so the machine knows the tub speed. No pulses, no spin.
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F6 E2F6 E2 on a Maytag washer indicates a communication failure between the user interface (UI) board and the central control unit (CCU). Unlike F2 E2 which is UI-to-CCU, F6 E2 specifically indicates the CCU is not responding to the UI board's requests.
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F6 E3The ACU (Appliance Control Unit) is trying to communicate with the UI (User Interface) board and getting nothing back. Think of it like a dropped call that never reconnects. The machine detects the communication failure, logs F6 E3, and shuts itself down to prevent damage.
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F6 E3The UI board and the CCU are constantly pinging each other while the machine runs. When F6 E3 fires, that communication line went dead. Could be a bad wire, could be a corroded pin on a connector, could be a dead board. Either way, the washer has no idea what you're asking it to do and it just stops.
high
F7 E1F7 E1 means the main control board sent a spin command to the motor but never got confirmation the basket actually started moving. The tachometer, which is built into the shift actuator on these machines, sends speed pulses back to the board. No pulses, no confirmation, you get this code.
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F7 E1F7 E1 means the control board fired the motor but got zero tachometer feedback confirming the basket hit its target RPM. Basically the board's asking 'hey, are you spinning?' and getting dead silence back.
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F7 E4F7 E4 on a Maytag washer means the motor could not reach its target RPM within the expected time. The motor is running but not fast enough - this differs from F7 E1 (motor not running at all) because the motor IS spinning, just not reaching the commanded speed.
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F8 E1The F8 E1 error code, often alternating with LF for Long Fill, indicates that the washer control board is not detecting water entering the tub or the water level is not rising fast enough to meet the programmed timing requirements.
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F8 E1F8 E1 is a 'Long Fill' timeout. The control board opened the water inlet valve, started counting, and the pressure sensor never reported enough water in the tub before the 13-minute limit ran out. Either water's not getting in, or it's draining back out as fast as it fills.
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F8 E6The control board sends a 5-volt reference signal through the thermistor and measures the resistance it gets back. That resistance changes with temperature. When the board sees a dead open circuit or a full short, it can't calculate temperature at all, so it throws F8 E6 and refuses to run.
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F9 E1The washer's control board runs a timer during every drain cycle. If the water level sensor doesn't confirm the tub's empty within about eight minutes, the board throws F9 E1 and kills the cycle. It's basically the machine saying 'I tried to drain but something's stopping me.'
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FILTER-CLEANThe Maytag washer filter is a debris trap that protects the drain pump from coins, lint, and hair. When it gets clogged, water can't evacuate fast enough and the machine stalls mid-cycle or throws a drainage error. Clean it and the problem usually goes away immediately.
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FLASHING-LIGHTSThe control board detected a fault it can't clear on its own, so it's broadcasting through the panel LEDs in a two-part blink sequence. First burst = F code (the system), second burst = E code (the specific component). No digital display needed, just a steady hand and something to count with.
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GUIDEComplete troubleshooting guide for the 12 most common Maytag washer problems with diagnostic steps and repair links
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HOW-TO-CLEAN-WASH-PLATERoutine maintenance to remove biofilm, detergent residue, and odors from Maytag high-efficiency (HE) impeller-style top load washers.
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HOW-TO-RESETA hard reset clears the control board's memory and recalibrates the lid lock sensor, forcing the machine to forget whatever confused state it's stuck in and boot up fresh.
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HUBThis is a complete index of every error code Maytag washers can display, covering both the older single-code format like F21 and LOC, and the newer two-part F+E codes used on current electronic-control models. Each code links to a dedicated repair article with specific diagnostics.
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LDLD stands for Long Drain. The control board's basically got a countdown timer for the drain cycle, usually 5 to 8 minutes depending on your model. If the pressure sensor doesn't detect a significant water level drop before that timer hits zero, it stops the cycle and throws the code.
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LDLD stands for Long Drain. The control board gives the drain pump a set amount of time, usually around 8 minutes, to empty the tub. If the pressure switch hasn't confirmed the water's gone by then, it throws the code and stops the cycle.
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LDThe control board times how long it takes for the water level sensor to drop after the drain pump kicks on. If it doesn't hit 'empty' within about 8-10 minutes, it cuts power to the motor and logs the LD code. Simple as that.
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LEAKINGA Maytag washer leaking from the bottom has different root causes depending on model type. Bravos XL has a known transmission seal issue that lets gear oil escape with the water. Front-load MHW models almost always leak from the door boot seal where the rubber meets the glass.
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LFLF means the washer's waiting for water that isn't arriving fast enough. The control board starts a timer the moment filling begins, and if the pressure switch doesn't confirm the right water level within about 8-10 minutes, it throws LF and kills the cycle.
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LID-LOCK-BLINKThe control board sends voltage to a solenoid inside the lock assembly, which is supposed to shoot a pin through the strike and complete a circuit. If that circuit doesn't close within about three seconds, the board decides something's wrong and starts blinking to tell you it failed out. Safety timeout, basically.
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LID-LOCK-ERRThe Maytag Centennial lid lock error occurs when the main control board cannot verify that the lid is securely latched. This safety feature prevents the washer from entering the high speed spin cycle or beginning the agitation process to protect the user from moving parts.
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LID-LOCK-FAULTThe lid lock assembly got power but couldn't confirm it physically latched, or it was asked to unlock and didn't respond. Either the solenoid didn't move the pin, the internal microswitch didn't close the circuit, or the board never got the confirmation signal it needs before spinning the drum.
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LID-LOCK-FLASHINGA flashing lid lock light on a Maytag washer indicates that the main control board is unable to verify the lock status of the lid. This is a safety lockout that prevents the machine from entering high speed spin cycles when it cannot confirm the door is securely latched.
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LID-LOCK-REPLACEThe lid lock assembly is a motorized latch that physically secures the lid and sends a confirmation signal to the control board. When the latch fails mechanically or the solenoid coil burns out, the board never gets that all-clear signal and won't allow the motor to drive the spin cycle.
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LID-REPLACEThis guide covers the identification and installation of a replacement lid for Maytag Bravos top-load washers when the glass shatters or the plastic hinge mounts fail.
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LO FLLO FL stands for Low Flow. The control board is timing how fast the water rises in the tub, and when the pressure switch doesn't trip within that set window, it kills the fill cycle and throws this code. Basically the machine thinks something's wrong with the water supply, and it's usually right.
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LOCThe control panel buttons got disabled by the board's software. Something held the lock button long enough to flip child lock on, whether that was a person, a bump, or a moisture hit on the touch sensor. Mechanically nothing's wrong. All the electronics are fine.
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LOCLOC means the Control Lock is active and the entire keypad is frozen. The board's not broken, it's just waiting for you to hold the right button for three seconds. Think of it like a keyboard lock on your laptop. Same concept, same fix.
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MAXIMA-HUBThe Maytag Maxima is a front-loading washer series (MHW model prefix) that shares the Whirlpool Duet platform. Maxima models use the same F/E error code system and CCU board as the Duet, but with Maytag-specific features including PowerWash cycle and the Advanced Vibration Control (AVC) system.
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MAYTAG-DRAIN-NOISEYour washer's drain pump is running when it shouldn't be. The machine thinks it's either overfilling or can't confirm the tub is empty, so it stays in drain mode as a safety move. Usually that bad info is coming from a blocked air tube, a dead pressure switch, or a fried relay on the control board.
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MAYTAG-RESETA Maytag washer reset is a procedure used to clear the internal control board memory, cancel active error codes, and reboot the appliance software after a power surge or component glitch.
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NO-DRAINThe washer finished its wash cycle but couldn't move the water out through the drain pump and into your standpipe. Something's either physically blocking the flow, the pump motor stopped working, or your house plumbing is fighting the machine.
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NOISEA Maytag washer making loud noise during spin has a worn bearing, broken motor coupler, failing clutch, or foreign object between the tubs. The type of noise identifies the failing component.
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NOT-DRAININGThe control board monitors how fast water drops out of the drum. When it doesn't fall fast enough within the set window, usually 8-10 minutes, it throws F9 E1 or F21 and stops the cycle. Could be a clog, a bad pump motor, or even a kinked hose creating a siphon effect behind the machine.
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NOT-FILLINGF8E1 fires when the pressure switch or flow sensor can't confirm that water entered the tub within about four minutes. The control board sends a signal to open the inlet valve, waits for the pressure switch to register a water level change, and if nothing comes back, it shuts the cycle down and throws the error.
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NOT-SPINNINGWhen your Maytag won't spin, the motor's either getting blocked from transitioning into spin mode or the mechanical connection between the motor and drum has broken somewhere. On top-loaders that's usually the shift actuator or coupler. On front-loaders it's typically the belt or door latch preventing spin from starting.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe control board won't trigger high-speed spin because one of its safety checks failed. Either the tub isn't empty, the door latch didn't send back a 'locked' confirmation, or the motor isn't responding. Basically the machine is saying 'I'm not doing this until everything checks out' to protect itself from something worse.
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RESETStep-by-step guide to resetting a Maytag washer using power cycle, button sequence, and calibration methods
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SDSD on a Maytag washer means excessive suds were detected in the wash tub. The washer adds extra rinse cycles to remove suds, extending the wash time. If suds persist, the washer stops and displays SD. On some Maytag displays, SD appears as 5d due to the seven-segment LED rendering.
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SENSE-DONE-FLASHINGThe control board sent a command to shift the drive system from agitate mode to spin mode and didn't get the confirmation signal back. Could be a dead actuator, a broken lid lock stopping the cycle from advancing, or just a wire that vibrated loose from the connector.
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SENSING-BLINKThe control board fired up, ran its startup check, and didn't get a confirmation signal back from either the shift actuator or the lid lock assembly. So it's just sitting there blinking, waiting. It won't proceed until it knows it's safe to spin that tub.
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SENSING-TO-DONEThe control board sends a command during sensing and waits for confirmation that the shift actuator moved the transmission into agitate position and that the lid lock engaged. If either signal doesn't come back within the timeout window, the board kills the cycle and resets to done.
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SKIPS-TO-DONEThe control board runs a quick self-check at the start of every cycle. If it can't confirm the lid's locked or the drive system shifted into gear within a few seconds, it skips straight to done instead of running with a potential mechanical failure.
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SMELLSThere's no electronic fault here. What's actually happening is biological: mold, bacteria, and biofilm are colonizing the parts of the machine that don't get fully rinsed during normal cycles. The outer tub, the underside of the wash plate, and standing water in the pump are basically a petri dish between loads.
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START-BTN-FAILWhen the start button on a Maytag washer becomes unresponsive, it signifies that the control board is either not receiving the physical input or is intentionally blocking the cycle due to a safety sensor fault.
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STUCK-ON-SENSINGThe control board kicks off a sensing routine at the start of every cycle to check basket position and load weight. When it can't get that signal back from the shift actuator, or the lid lock won't confirm it's closed, the board just stays frozen in sensing mode waiting for an answer that's never coming.
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SUDThe SUD code fires when the pressure switch or motor control board picks up too much foam resistance during drain or spin. That foam messes with the air tube reading, so the board can't tell if the tub is full of water or bubbles, and it shuts down the cycle to prevent overflow or pump damage.
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SYMPTOMThe door lock solenoid is staying energized and holding the latch closed. The control board either lost power before it could send the unlock command, there's water in the drum triggering the safety interlock, or the lock actuator itself has physically failed in the locked position.
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SYMPTOMMaytag washer not starting a wash cycle or showing no response when attempting to start
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SYMPTOMStanding water in the drum after a wash cycle means the drain pump didn't fully clear the tub, or the drain hose has a blockage somewhere. Water appearing in an idle washer means the inlet valve's internal diaphragm is worn and water's seeping through even when the valve should be fully closed.
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SYMPTOMThe lid lock mechanism isn't sending the 'locked' confirmation signal to the control board, or it's physically stuck in one position. Without that signal, the board won't allow spin or cycle advancement, so everything just stops and waits.
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SYMPTOMMaytag washer vibrating or shaking excessively during spin cycle
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SYMPTOMThe control board monitors water level and cycle progression during the rinse phase. It waits for the drum to drain to empty, then refills, then drains again. If the pressure sensor never confirms empty, or if it detects excess suds, it repeats the rinse sequence. A genuinely stuck rinse means one of those confirmation signals isn't coming through.
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SYMPTOMThe cycle's brain is stuck waiting for a condition to be met before it'll move on to rinse. Could be temperature, could be a sensor lying to it. The drum keeps going because that part's fine, but the cycle logic just won't advance.
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SYMPTOMThe washer display holds on Sensing without advancing to fill because the control board is missing a required input signal, usually the transmission position confirmation from the shift actuator or confirmation that the lid lock actually engaged.
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ULUL stands for Unbalanced Load. The control board watches drum rotation during spin, and when it detects the tub wobbling off-center, it cuts motor power to prevent damage. Pretty much every top-load Maytag built in the last 15 years has this protection built in.
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WONT-STARTThe control board runs a handshake sequence before any cycle can start. It needs a confirmed signal back from the lid lock or door latch before it'll allow water in. If that signal doesn't come back clean, whether from a failed lock, a blown fuse, or a logic error on the board, the Start button just does nothing.
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dLdL stands for Door Lock error. The control board sent the lock signal six consecutive times and never got confirmation the latch engaged. Something's broken in that loop, whether it's mechanical, electrical, or just a wad of lint jammed in the wrong place.
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dL / dU / LidThe control board sends voltage to the lid lock solenoid and waits for a feedback signal confirming the bolt engaged. No signal after a few tries throws dL. dU means it tried to unlock and got nothing back. Both codes basically mean the lock circuit isn't completing when the board expects it to.
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rLrL stands for Remove Load. The control board pulses the drive motor and measures how fast the basket decelerates. Too much drag equals a load in the board's mind. It fires this code to stop you from running a cleaning or calibration cycle with clothes in there.
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