Maytag dryers use F-codes and E-codes to identify specific faults. F3 E3 means the moisture sensor bars in the drum are dirty or failed and the dryer cannot detect when laundry is dry.
Sixty percent of my Maytag dryer calls come down to two things: gunked-up sensor bars or a vent that's basically strangling the machine. These F and E codes are actually pretty informative once you know the pattern. Ignore them and you're looking at ruined laundry every cycle or, worst case, a lint fire. Fixed three of these last week. All preventable.
MaytagDryer
About These Maytag Dryer Error Codes
When your Maytag starts flashing F and E codes, it's usually trying to protect itself from overheating or a short circuit. I always tell homeowners to check the vent first. A clogged exhaust pipe causes high internal heat that trips sensors, and those trips look exactly like part failures but they're really just a safety response to bad airflow. Honestly, about half my Maytag calls turn into a vent cleaning job and nothing more.
Most Common Error Codes
Moisture sensor bars coated with fabric softener residue40%
Main control board failure from age or power surge24%
Blocked or restricted exhaust vent14%
Thermistor failure12%
Wiring harness fault or loose connector10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Two codes alternating on the display, like F3 then E3, toggling back and forth every couple seconds.
Dryer stops mid-cycle and won't restart without fully powering it off and back on.
Clothes are still damp after a full 45-minute cycle, like the moisture sensor gave up and called it done way too early.
Drum spins, you can hear it running fine, but there's zero heat. Just cold air tumbling wet laundry around.
Start button does absolutely nothing. Machine just sits there with the error on the display and won't respond.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver (¼ inch)Digital multimeterFlexible vent cleaning brush kit (at least 12 feet)Flashlight or headlampRubbing alcohol (90%+ isopropyl) and cotton ballsPlastic panel-removal pry tool or putty knife
Service / Diagnostic Mode
On most MED/MGD electronic models: press and hold 'More Time' + 'Less Time' simultaneously for 5 seconds until the display changes to show the fault code list. Use 'More Time' or 'Less Time' to scroll through stored codes. Press 'Start' to clear. On knob-style models: rotate the cycle selector clockwise 1 click, counter-clockwise 3 clicks, clockwise 1 click within 6 seconds, then advance one position at a time to step through diagnostic modes.
How to Identify Your Error Code
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10000–11000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do Maytag and Whirlpool dryers use the same error codes?
Basically yes. Whirlpool bought Maytag back in 2006 and since then they've shared the same dryer platforms. The MED and MGD series run on the same guts as the Whirlpool WED and WGD models. So if you find a fix documented for a Whirlpool model with a matching F and E code, it's almost certainly going to work for your Maytag too. I use the same service manuals for both brands every single day on the job. No reason to have two bookshelves.
How do I clear an error code on my Maytag dryer?
A power cycle usually does it. Unplug for a full minute so the control board fully resets its logic. But clearing the code doesn't fix the underlying problem. If the moisture sensor's coated in dryer sheet wax or the thermistor's failing, that code will come right back the second the machine runs its next self-check. Clearing it just buys you time to diagnose things properly. Don't run load after load thinking it's fixed if that code keeps reappearing.
Why does my Maytag dryer show a code and then clear on its own?
That's usually a borderline failure in progress. A vent that's 80% clogged might only trigger a heat code on a heavy towel load but seem totally fine on a light load of shirts. Or a wiring connector that's mostly seated but barely making contact, and the vibration during the cycle knocks it loose, then it reseats when things cool down. When I see this pattern I start by tightening all the harness connectors on the main board and at the thermistor, then clean the vent.
What is the most common Maytag dryer error code?
F3 E3, hands down. People run too many dryer sheets and the wax builds up an invisible film on the sensor bars inside the drum. The dryer thinks the clothes are dry after two minutes and either cuts the cycle short or throws a sensor fault. A quick scrub with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol fixes this probably 90% of the time. I've had homeowners replace $150 worth of parts before calling me, and all it needed was a 30-second cleaning.
Can I still use my Maytag dryer while it shows an error code?
If it's a sensor code like F3 E3, you can often limp along using Timed Dry mode. That mode ignores the moisture sensor completely and just runs the clock, so the bad reading doesn't matter. But for any code involving the heating system, like F2 E1 or anything pointing to the thermal fuse or heater circuit, stop running it. A dryer with a blocked vent or a failing heat component is a legitimate fire risk, not just an inconvenience.
How much does it cost to fix a Maytag dryer error code?
Depends completely on the code. Moisture sensor cleaning? Free, just rubbing alcohol and five minutes of your time. New thermistor? About $20 in parts, maybe an hour of work if you're comfortable with a screwdriver. New control board? That's $150 to $250 for the part, plus labor if you're not DIYing it. Thermal fuse is a $10 part but if you don't fix the vent at the same time you're just setting yourself up to do it again in a few months. The vent cleaning is the one thing people skip and it causes half the problems I see.