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ErrBase

Maytag Dryer Error Codes

All Maytag dryer error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

16 error codes

CodeMeaning
F01 E1 indicates a primary control board fault on Maytag electric and gas dryers. The code signals that the main PCB has failed its internal diagnostic check and can no longer reliably manage dryer operations. The machine will refuse to start or will stop mid-cycle and will not recover on its own.
highintermediate
AFAF stands for Air Flow. The control board monitors how fast temperature rises inside the drum. When air can't move fast enough through the exhaust system, heat backs up and temps spike faster than they should. The board sees that spike and throws the AF code to shut things down before you end up with a damaged heater or worse.
moderatebeginner
DRYER-MOTORThe drive motor spins the drum and turns the blower wheel that pushes hot air through your clothes. It's also got a built-in centrifugal switch that tells the heater it's safe to kick on. No motor means no heat and no tumbling. Pretty much everything stops at once.
highintermediate
DRYER-NO-SPINThe heating circuit's working fine but the mechanical drive system has failed. Either the belt snapped, a pulley seized, or something's physically blocking the drum from turning. Motor's spinning, heat's on, but nothing's actually moving your clothes around.
highintermediate
F01The main electronic control board has detected an internal fault or has failed. The control board is the central computer managing all dryer functions including cycle timing, heat control, and motor operation.
highadvanced
F3 E3The moisture sensor bars inside the drum have stopped working correctly. They're either coated with fabric softener residue that blocks conductivity, or the sensor assembly itself has failed. The dryer can't figure out when the laundry's actually dry.
moderateintermediate
HUBReference guide for all F and E fault codes across Maytag's MED and MGD dryer lineup. When two codes flash alternately on your display, the machine's telling you exactly which subsystem failed. Same underlying platform as Whirlpool, so the fault logic maps cleanly across both brands.
lowbeginner
L2L2 means the control board detected only one of the two 120V power legs it needs. Dryers require the full 240V to fire the heating element. You've got half the power coming in, so the motor runs fine but the heater's completely dead.
moderateintermediate
NOISEYour Maytag's drum needs rollers, a drive belt, and a tensioner pulley to spin quietly. When any of those components wear out, they start making noise under load. The type of noise actually tells you which part is failing. Thumping is usually rollers. Squealing is the idler pulley or belt. Rattling is blower or drum debris.
moderateintermediate
NOT-HEATINGYour dryer's motor is spinning and the drum is turning, but the heating circuit is broken somewhere. Could be a safety device that tripped, a burned-out element, or a gas component that quit. The drum runs fine because heat and motor run on completely separate circuits inside the machine.
moderateintermediate
NOT-SPINNINGThe drum isn't rotating because something in the mechanical drive system failed, usually the belt, idler pulley, or occasionally the motor's thermal overload tripped. The motor itself is probably fine and still running. It just has nothing physically connecting it to the drum anymore.
moderateintermediate
NOT-TURNING-OFFYour dryer uses two metal sensor bars inside the drum to detect moisture in the fabric. When those bars stop reading correctly, or when the timer motor or control board relay gets stuck in the 'on' position, the machine has no way to know the cycle is done. So it just keeps going.
moderateintermediate
SMELLS-BURNINGYour dryer is detecting or producing abnormal heat caused by restricted airflow, lint ignition, or mechanical friction from worn components. Basically the machine's telling you that something is getting hotter than it should, whether that's backed-up exhaust heat, coils touching lint, or a belt slipping on a seized pulley.
moderateintermediate
TAKING-LONGYour dryer's not finishing because heat's either not being generated, not staying in the drum long enough due to poor airflow, or the moisture sensors are telling the machine clothes are already dry when they're still damp. Something broke in that heat-airflow-sensing loop.
moderateintermediate
TROUBLESHOOTINGGeneral troubleshooting for the Maytag 3000 Series front-load dryer. Most issues come down to the thermal fuse, drive belt, door switch, or drum rollers rather than any electronic fault in the control board.
moderatebeginner
WONT-STARTWhen your Maytag dryer won't start, it means one of the safety or power delivery circuits has opened up and the control board isn't sending voltage to the motor. Could be a blown fuse, a dead switch, a snapped belt, or even a half-tripped breaker. The machine's not wrecked, it's just got a broken link in the chain.
moderateintermediate