A Maytag dryer that won't stop running typically indicates a shorted heating element, a faulty moisture sensor, or welded timer contacts. The most common fix is testing the moisture sensor for continuity or replacing a stuck control board relay.
Nine times out of ten when I show up to one of these calls, it's either a gunked-up moisture sensor or a venting problem that's been quietly getting worse for months. And yeah, a dryer that won't quit is a real fire risk. The drum doesn't know to stop, so it just keeps heating. Left long enough, you're looking at scorched clothes, a blown thermal fuse, or worse.
I've spent years chasing this ghost in Maytag units. On older mechanical timer models, the timer motor itself usually fails or the internal contacts weld together from heat and age. On the newer Bravos or Maxima series, it's almost always a software glitch or a coating of fabric softener on the moisture sensor bars that tricks the board into thinking the load is still damp. Either way, it's fixable.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Moisture sensor failed30%
Timer contacts welded20%
Thermostat stuck15%
Board relay stuck15%
Wrinkle prevent (normal)10%
Cool-down extending10%
Symptoms You May Notice
The dryer just keeps tumbling and heating past the 60 or 70 minute mark, clothes are bone dry and almost too hot to touch, but the machine won't quit.
It only stops when you physically press the power button or open the door.
Clothes come out over-dried, stiff, sometimes with a faint burnt smell around synthetic fabrics.
On models with a display, the timer counts down to zero and then either resets or the drum keeps spinning with no time shown.
You can hear the drum spinning and feel heat through the door glass but the cycle light or 'Dry' indicator never goes out.
Can you reset a Maytag dryer to clear the NOT-TURNING-OFF code?
Kill the power at the breaker and leave it off for at least 10 full minutes. Don't just use the power button on the dryer. The control board's capacitors need time to fully discharge and clear any stuck relay state. Flip the breaker back on and try a short timed dry cycle first to confirm it's behaving. On older mechanical timer models, try rotating the dial manually through one full 360-degree rotation while it's unplugged to free up a stuck cam.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriver1/4-inch and 5/16-inch nut driverMultimeter (set to continuity and ohms)Flashlight or headlampRubbing alcohol (90% isopropyl or higher)Cotton balls or lint-free clothVacuum with hose attachment (for vent cleaning)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range0–50 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to fix a Maytag dryer that won't turn off?
Cleaning the moisture sensor bars costs you a dollar in rubbing alcohol and five minutes of your time. That's honestly where I'd start before spending anything. If it's the control board on a newer Bravos or Maxima, expect to pay $80 to $200 for the part depending on model, plus labor if you're not doing it yourself. A timer motor on an older unit runs $40 to $80 for the part. Professional labor usually adds another $100 to $150 on top, so the total repair bill typically lands between $150 and $350.
Should I repair or replace my Maytag dryer?
If it's a classic Dependable Care or early Centennial model, those things are tanks. Keep it running. But if you've got a newer front-load style Maxima that's over 10 years old and the control board has fried, the repair cost often gets close to what you'd pay for a new mid-range unit. My general rule: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new machine, start shopping. Especially if the drum bearings are also getting noisy, because that's another $150 repair waiting to happen.
Can I fix this myself?
Most of it, yeah. Cleaning the sensor bars and checking the vent requires zero tools and about 10 minutes. Swapping a timer or control board on most Maytag dryers just takes a Phillips screwdriver, a nut driver, and maybe 45 minutes once you've watched a quick video for your specific model. Take a photo of the wiring harness before you unplug anything, seriously, it'll save you a headache on the reinstall. Gas dryer caveat: if you smell any gas at all while you're back there, stop and call a pro.
Why does my Maytag dryer keep running even on timed dry mode?
That's actually a really useful diagnostic clue. If it won't stop on timed dry, the moisture sensor is completely off the hook because that sensor doesn't even factor in during timed cycles. Now you're looking at the timer motor itself on older machines, or a stuck relay on the main control board for newer ones. A relay is basically a small electronic switch. When it welds itself closed from a power surge or just plain age, the motor circuit stays energized no matter what the board's logic is telling it to do.
Is it safe to keep using the dryer until I can fix it?
Honestly? No. A dryer running indefinitely is a fire hazard, especially if there's any lint buildup in the duct. At minimum, don't leave the house while it's running and don't run it overnight. If the cabinet feels unusually hot to the touch or you smell anything burning, pull the plug immediately. The thermal fuse is there as a backup, but once that blows you've got a bigger repair on your hands. Just don't leave it unattended.
Same Fix Works on These Brands
Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.