Maytag Washer F5 E2 Error: Lid Lock Troubleshooting and

Quick Answer

The F5 E2 error means your washer cannot lock the lid. This is usually caused by a faulty lid lock assembly, a broken lid strike, or a loose wiring harness connection between the lock and the main control board.

Nine times out of ten when I show up for this call, the lid lock assembly is toast or the plastic strike on the lid is cracked. The washer tries to lock three times before it gives up and throws this code. Ignore it and you're basically stuck with a machine that won't run at all. The fix is usually under a hundred bucks in parts if you do it yourself.

MaytagWasherSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

20–45 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

—

Tools Needed

1/4 inch nut driver, Putty knife

What Does the F5 E2 Code Mean?

OK so here's the deal with F5 E2. Your control board fires a signal to the lid lock, and if it doesn't get a confirmation back that the latch actually engaged, it kills the whole cycle. It's a safety thing. Maytag built it in so the tub can't spin with an open lid. I've seen this on probably forty machines in the last year alone, and it's almost always the lock assembly itself.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Lid Lock Assembly Failure75%

Lid Strike Damage15%

Wiring Harness Issues7%

Main Control Board Fault3%

Symptoms You May Notice

The washer stops mid-cycle, you hear three clicks from the lid area, and then F5 E2 shows up on the display.
Lid feels like it's locked but the cycle won't start at all, just sits there flashing the code at you.
You can hear the solenoid clicking and trying to engage but it never actually locks, kind of a rapid clicking sound right after you close the lid.
Sometimes the lid gets stuck locked and won't open even after the cycle ends or you try to cancel it.
Machine fills with water and then just stops, won't agitate or spin, and the code shows up when you check it.

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F5 E2 code?

Unplug the washer from the wall and leave it unplugged for a full two minutes. While it's unplugged, press and hold the Start button for five seconds. That drains any residual charge from the board. Plug it back in and select Drain and Spin to test. If the code clears and the cycle runs, you're good. If it comes right back, you've got a deeper problem that needs diagnosis.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

1/4 inch nut driverPutty knifeMultimeterPhillips head screwdriver

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range85–155 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the lid lock on my Maytag washer?

Don't try it. I know it's tempting, but modern Maytag washers don't just check whether the circuit is closed. The board expects to see the circuit open, then close, then confirm a specific signal pattern at specific times during the cycle. If you permanently jump the wires, the board sees that as a fault condition and you'll get a different error code. You won't fool it. The only real fix is a working lid lock assembly.

Why does my washer click three times before showing F5 E2?

That clicking is the solenoid inside the lock assembly firing. The board tells it to lock, it tries. Doesn't get confirmation back. Tries again. Still nothing. Third try, still nothing, and then the board gives up and throws the code. Three attempts is how Maytag programmed it. You can actually hear whether it's a mechanical click or more of a weak buzz, which tells you a lot. A good solenoid clicks hard. A failing one sounds muffled or doesn't make it all the way.

Is the F5 E2 error expensive to fix?

If you do it yourself, you're looking at $60-100 for the lid lock assembly. Takes about 20-30 minutes. If you call a tech, figure $200-300 total with the service call and labor. The only expensive scenario is if the main control board is the problem, that part runs $180-350 depending on the model. That's why I always say rule out the lock assembly first since it's the culprit about 90% of the time.

How do I get my clothes out if the lid is locked with an F5 E2 error?

Unplug the machine and wait ten minutes. The wax motor inside the lock assembly needs time to cool down and contract before it'll release. That usually does it. If the lid is still stuck after ten minutes, reach under the front of the top panel with your hand, feel around toward the back left corner, and you'll find a manual release tab on the bottom of the lock assembly. Pull it toward the front of the machine. Lid pops right open.

Does slamming the lid cause this error?

Yep. Probably the most common thing I see on machines under three years old. The strike is plastic and it's not designed to absorb impact repeatedly. I had a customer earlier this month, machine was only two years old and already on her second lid lock assembly. Her teenager was letting the lid drop every time. Close it gently, it's not a car door.

What's the part number for the Maytag lid lock assembly?

The most common replacement is WPW10619033, which covers a huge range of Maytag top-loaders. Double-check it against your model number before you order. You'll find your model number on a sticker inside the lid opening on the right side of the cabinet. The part usually ships in a day or two from most appliance parts suppliers and runs about $70-90.

Models Known to Experience F5 E2 Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVWB765FW, MVWB835DW, MVWB955FW, MVWC465HW, MVWC565FW, MVWX655DW, MVWB865GW

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026