Warning: Disconnect power before servicing.
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Maytag Stove Burner Replacement: Coil and Radiant Elements

Quick Answer

To fix a Maytag burner that will not heat, disconnect the power and swap the faulty element with a matching replacement. Coil burners pull out easily while radiant glass top elements require lifting the cooktop to access the mounting brackets and wiring.

Honestly, most burner failures on Maytag ranges are just plain wear and tear. But if you ignore it, that dead element puts extra load on the infinite switch, and those things aren't cheap to replace. I've seen cracked glass cooktops from people using a working burner right next to a bad one unevenly over months. Fix it now. It's a 30-minute job and way cheaper than replacing the whole cooktop.

MaytagOvenSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate95% DIY Success
Time to Fix
20–60 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
—
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

What Does the BURNER-REPLACE Code Mean?

OK so here's the deal with Maytag burners. Coil models are stupid easy to fix, like ten minutes max. Glass top radiant elements take a bit more work because you've got to prop the cooktop open, but it's still a solid DIY repair. Parts usually run $20-$60 depending on your model. I replaced three of these last week alone, so trust me, you can handle this.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Element burnout75%
Wiring harness failure15%
Limiter switch defect10%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • Burner stays completely cold no matter what setting you turn it to, while the one next to it works just fine.
  • There's a visible crack, dark spot, or bubble on the coil, sometimes with a burnt smell that hits you when you walk into the kitchen.
  • The burner only heats on the absolute highest setting and won't throttle down at all, which means the infinite switch is getting dragged into failure by a struggling element.
  • You can see a dark scorched ring on the glass cooktop surface directly above where the radiant element sits underneath.
  • Small spark or flash when you first turn the knob, then nothing.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverNeedle nose pliersWork glovesMultimeter set to ohmsPhone or camera for wiring photosShort piece of 2x4 lumber to prop cooktop open

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range20–60 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a universal burner on my Maytag stove?
For coil ranges, yeah, universal coils usually work fine as long as the drip bowl size and prong spacing match. But for radiant glass top elements? Don't do it. I've seen cheap universal elements cause uneven heating that actually cracked the glass cooktop because the element diameter didn't match the ring printed on the surface. Replacement glass tops run $200-$400 or more, so saving $15 on a universal element isn't worth the gamble. Stick to genuine Maytag or Whirlpool OEM parts. They share a parts catalog so you'll find them everywhere, and they drop right in.
Why does my new burner smoke the first time I turn it on?
Totally normal, don't freak out. Manufacturers put a thin protective oil coating on elements before shipping so they don't corrode sitting in a warehouse for months. When you fire it up the first time, that coating burns off. It'll smoke and might smell a little weird for three to five minutes. Turn on your range hood fan, open a window if you've got one nearby, and let it run on high for about five minutes. After that it'll be clean and fine. If it's still smoking after ten minutes or you smell something chemical and sharp, shut it off and check your wiring connections.
Does a burnt out burner mean my control board is bad?
Almost never. Honestly, in 15 years I can count on one hand the times a failed element was actually caused by the control board. Elements fail on their own all the time, just from age and use. Replace the burner first. If the new element works, great, you're done. If the new element doesn't heat either, then check the infinite switch on that burner position next. Those fail way more often than the board. The board is last on the list.
How do I find the correct part number for my Maytag burner?
Open the oven door and look at the door frame, left side usually. There's a sticker with the full model number, something like MER8800FZ. Grab that exact number and search it on any appliance parts site. Don't try to match by burner size alone because Maytag makes elements in the same physical diameter but different wattages for different models. Using the wrong wattage means it'll either underperform or trip the thermal limiter constantly. Get the right part for your exact model number.
Is it worth fixing a 10 year old Maytag stove?
Yeah, absolutely. Maytag built really solid ranges through the 2010s and early 2020s, and a burner is one of the cheapest parts on the whole appliance. You're looking at $20-$60 for the element and maybe an hour of your time. Compare that to $800-$1200 for a new comparable range. The only time I'd say skip the repair is if multiple things are failing at once, like a bad element AND a failing igniter AND the oven temp is way off. One repair? Always worth it.
How do I test a burner element with a multimeter?
Set your multimeter to ohms. On a coil element, touch one probe to each prong. You should see somewhere between 20 and 60 ohms depending on the wattage of that element. A reading of OL or infinity means the element has an open circuit and it's dead. Zero ohms means it shorted out. Both mean replace it. For the thermal limiter sensor on a radiant element, check continuity across it separately. It should read near zero ohms, basically just like a wire. If it reads open, the limiter tripped and that's actually your real problem, not the element itself. Replacement limiters run about $10.

Models Known to Experience BURNER-REPLACE Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MER8800FZ, MEC7430BW, MES8800FZ, YMER8800FZ, MER6600FZ, YMER7765WS, MER7685BB

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026