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ErrBase

Maytag Oven Error Codes

All Maytag oven error codes with step-by-step troubleshooting, multimeter specs, and OEM part numbers.

15 error codes

CodeMeaning
BURNER-FAILSomewhere in that burner's circuit there's a break, whether it's inside the coil itself, at the receptacle block it plugs into, or in the infinite switch that controls power to that burner position. The stove just can't push continuous current to the heating element, so nothing happens when you turn the knob.
moderateintermediate
BURNER-REPLACEYour heating element burned out. Either the coil developed a break in the resistance wire or the radiant element under your glass top shorted internally. The circuit's open, so no current flows, no heat. Pretty simple failure, actually.
moderateintermediate
F1F1 on a Maytag oven means the control board ran its internal self-test at startup and couldn't complete it. The board's own logic is the problem, not a sensor or a door switch. It's a catch-all fault for anything wrong inside that brain.
highintermediate
F1 E0The EEPROM is a tiny memory chip on the control board that holds all your oven's calibration data, settings, and operating instructions. When F1 E0 fires, that chip either got corrupted by a voltage spike or physically died. The oven basically has no idea what to do because it can't read its own instructions anymore.
highintermediate
F2F2 means the control board detected temps above safe limits, usually over 600°F in the oven cavity. Either the oven's actually that hot because a relay's welded shut and won't cycle off, or the temperature sensor is reading way too high and sending bad data to the board.
highintermediate
F3F3 means the oven temperature sensor has an open circuit. The control board is trying to read resistance from that probe in the back wall of the oven cavity, and it's getting nothing back. Infinite resistance. The sensor wire has broken somewhere.
moderateintermediate
F5F5 on a Maytag oven indicates a door latch fault - the latch did not reach the expected position during self-clean lock or unlock. The latch motor ran but the position switch did not confirm completion.
moderateintermediate
F6 E1F6 E1 means the main control board lost the signal it expects from the user interface or the touchpad. The board's constantly listening for handshake signals from the keypad assembly. When those signals go silent or come back garbled, the board throws this code and shuts everything down rather than run blind.
highintermediate
F7F7 on a Maytag oven means the control board's detecting a function key that won't let go. Bake, Broil, Self-Clean, one of those keys is registering as continuously pressed, either because the membrane's fused or there's a short somewhere in the input circuit.
moderateintermediate
KNOB-REPLACEMaytag cooktop knob replacement refers to the process of swapping out damaged, melted, or stripped control dials on a range or cooktop surface. This is a common maintenance task required when the internal plastic 'D-clip' fails and no longer grips the metal valve stem.
lowbeginner
MAYTAG-BURNER-FAILWhen a Maytag burner fails, there's a break somewhere in the circuit that should carry electricity to the heating coil. Could be the coil itself, the plug-in receptacle, the infinite switch, or the wiring behind the panel. Gas models fail differently, usually at the igniter electrode or spark module.
moderateintermediate
MAYTAG-GLASS-TOP-REPLACEThe glass top replacement process involves removing the damaged ceramic cooktop surface and transferring the radiant heating elements and wiring harnesses to a new glass assembly.
highintermediate
NOT-HEATINGThe oven's heating circuit isn't completing. In electric models, current can't flow through the bake element to generate heat. In gas models, the igniter isn't drawing enough amperage to signal the gas valve to open, so there's no flame even though the burner is trying to fire.
moderateintermediate
PROBLEMSThis isn't a single error code, it's a guide to the three or four most common failure points on Maytag gas ranges. The core issues usually come down to the igniter circuit, gas delivery through the valve or ports, or the control system. All of these are fixable by a homeowner with basic tools and about an hour of time.
moderatebeginner
WONT-STARTThe oven isn't getting the power or control signal it needs to kick off a heating cycle. Could be a supply problem at the breaker, a blown thermal fuse that cut power as a safety measure, a locked control panel someone accidentally triggered, or a failed component like the igniter or bake element.
moderateintermediate