The F5 E3 code means your washer lid is stuck in the locked position. Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a faulty lid lock assembly or a broken plastic lid strike that is physically jamming the mechanism.
F5 E3 means your lid is stuck locked and the washer won't budge until it's fixed. Ignore it and you're basically locked out of your laundry, wet clothes sitting in there for days. Nine times out of ten it's either a burnt solenoid or a gunked-up latch, and both are totally fixable without calling a pro if you're comfortable with a nut driver.
The control board tries to unlock the lid three times, doesn't get confirmation, and throws F5 E3. I see this constantly on Maytag MVWB and MVWC series machines that are 3-6 years old. The lid lock assembly runs about $45-80 in parts and honestly the repair's not bad at all if you've got a multimeter and a putty knife.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Mechanical Lock Failure75%
Broken Lid Strike15%
Wiring or Harness Corrosion7%
Main Control Board Fault3%
Symptoms You May Notice
Lid stays locked solid at the end of the cycle, won't budge no matter what you do.
You hear three rapid clicks right before F5 E3 appears on the display. That's the board making its three unlock attempts back to back.
Washer stops dead mid-spin or mid-rinse, won't continue, lid locked with soaking wet clothes still inside.
The lid unlocks fine sometimes but throws F5 E3 randomly every few cycles. That kind of intermittent behavior points straight at a loose connector or a solenoid that's dying but not fully dead yet.
Unplugged it, waited, plugged it back in, and the lid is STILL locked. That's when you know it's not a software glitch.
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F5 E3 code?
After fixing the hardware, rotate the dial Left 3 clicks, Right 1, Left 1, Right 1 to enter diagnostic mode, then advance through to find the fault clear function. Or unplug it for 10 full minutes. Either way, run a complete cycle after the reset and confirm the lid both locks AND unlocks cleanly before you call it done.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverFlat blade putty knifeDigital multimeterNeedle-nose pliersShop vac or bucket (if drum has water in it)
Service / Diagnostic Mode
With the washer plugged in and powered off, rotate the cycle selector dial: Left 3 clicks, Right 1 click, Left 1 click, Right 1 click. All indicator lights will flash to confirm you're in diagnostic mode. Rotate the dial slowly to step through the test modes.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range1000–1300 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I still use the washer if I manually unlock it?
Honestly, no. Even if you get the lid popped open, F5 E3 is still sitting in the fault memory and the board won't start a new wash cycle. It needs to see a full, successful lock-unlock sequence to clear that code. Some people try unplugging, forcing the lid open, and plugging back in hoping for a reset. Doesn't work. Fix the hardware, clear the fault code, then you're back in business.
Why do I hear clicking sounds before F5 E3 appears?
That clicking is the solenoid firing. The control board sends three pulses to try to move the latch into the unlocked position. Click, pause, click, pause, click. Each one's about a second apart. If the position sensor doesn't confirm the bolt moved after attempt three, the board gives up and throws F5 E3. So three clicks followed immediately by the error code is actually a pretty clean sign pointing straight at the lock assembly or its wiring, not the control board.
Is there a way to bypass the lid lock on a Maytag washer?
Don't try it. I know there are videos showing how to jump the connector pins but modern Maytag machines use a bidirectional feedback signal, not just a simple on/off switch. Short the wrong pins and you can take out the control board, which is a $150-250 part. The lid lock assembly is $50-80. Just replace the lock. It's not worth gambling a $250 board to save an hour of your time.
How much does it cost to fix an F5 E3 error?
DIY you're looking at $45-80 for the lid lock assembly. Part number W10404050 fits a lot of the MVWB and MVWC series. If you hire a tech, figure $150-250 total depending on your area, labor usually runs $100-150 on top of the part cost. I replaced three of these last month alone. It's honestly one of the more straightforward washer repairs once the top panel's off.
What if the new lid lock still throws F5 E3?
First thing, make sure the wiring harness is fully clicked in on the new lock. I've seen brand new parts installed with the connector only halfway seated and it'll throw the same code right away. If the wiring's solid, your next suspect is the control board, specifically the relay that drives the unlock circuit. Run the diagnostic mode to see if the board can command the lock to cycle at all. If it can't, you're probably looking at a board replacement and it's worth getting a tech in to test it properly before you spend $200 on a board you might not need.
How long does a lid lock assembly usually last?
On these Maytag top loaders, probably 5-8 years under normal household use. High-volume households doing 8-10 loads a week might see failures sooner. The solenoid coil is the weak point since it's cycling hundreds of times per year. When you replace it, go OEM or at minimum a quality aftermarket part rated for the same cycle count. The cheap $18 generics I've seen installed tend to fail within a year.
Models Known to Experience F5 E3 Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: