Maytag Washer Not Draining: Pump Filter and Hose Fix

Quick Answer

Maytag Washer not draining: clean the drain pump filter first - it is the most common cause and takes 5 minutes. Access it from the small panel at the lower front of the machine. Coins, small clothing items, and hair ties collect here and block the pump.

What catches people off guard is that a Maytag might still finish its cycle but leave clothes soaking wet. In the field, I usually find the pump isn't actually dead, it's just fighting a partial blockage. On Bravos XL top-loaders, there's a notorious tight bend in the internal hose that traps lint over time. Ignore it long enough and the motor burns out. Simple cleaning job turns into a $150+ repair real fast.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate80% DIY Success

Time to Fix

15–90 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$15 – $60

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flathead screwdriver (for prying access panels)

Maytag Washer Not Draining: Pump Filter and Hose Fix

Before you buy a new pump, listen to the machine. Hear a low hum but water's just sitting there? That's almost certainly a physical blockage like a stray sock or a coin jammed in the impeller. Totally silent? That's usually a dead motor. I pulled a quarter and two hair ties out of a Bravos last week that the homeowner swore were 'impossible' to be in there. Always check the easy stuff first, seriously.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Drain pump filter clogged (front-load)40%

Drain hose lint buildup at tight bend (Bravos XL specific)24%

Small item jammed in pump impeller14%

Drain hose kinked behind washer12%

Drain pump motor failed10%

Symptoms You May Notice

You open the door and there's a full drum of standing water staring back at you, sometimes hours after the cycle supposedly finished.
F9 E1 or F21 is flashing on the display and the machine stopped dead mid-cycle.
Clothes come out dripping and heavy even though the machine claims it finished, which is a partial blockage slowing the pump but not stopping it completely.
You can hear the pump motor humming or whirring but the water level isn't dropping one bit.
There's a musty, almost sour smell coming from the washer because water's been sitting in the drum or the internal hose for way too long.

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the NOT-DRAINING code?

Unplug the washer from the wall for a full minute, not just a breaker flip. While it's unplugged, check that your door latch or lid switch clicks solidly when you close it. Plug it back in and run a Drain & Spin cycle right away. Watch it. If water drains and the code clears, you're done. If it throws the same code again immediately, the physical blockage or failed pump is still there and needs to be addressed.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriver (for prying access panels)Needle-nose pliers (for spring hose clamps)MultimeterFlashlight or headlampShallow baking pan or cookie sheet (to catch water)Old towels, seriously grab a bunchBucket2x4 scrap wood (to prop top-loader while tilted)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your washer is showing:

F9E1 Error →HUB Error →

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range5–10 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Maytag Drain Pump MotorW10130913 · $25–$60	W10130913	$25 – $60
Maytag Drain HoseW10189267 · $15–$25	W10189267	$15 – $25

Frequently Asked Questions

Maytag Bravos XL not draining but no error code. Why?

This is a classic slow drain I see on Bravos XL all the time. The washer monitors how fast the water level drops, and if it drains just fast enough to satisfy the sensor, it won't throw an F9 E1 but it won't spin at full speed either. Clothes come out way wetter than they should be. The culprit is almost always a thick lint buildup or a small item like a baby sock jammed in that tight 90-degree bend in the internal drain hose. Check that hose first.

Where is the Maytag washer drain pump filter?

Depends on the style. Front-loaders like the MHW series have a small square access door at the lower front, usually on the right side. Pop it open and you'll see the big plastic cap you unscrew to access the filter. Top-loaders like the Bravos and Centennial don't have an external filter door at all. You have to tip the machine back and access the pump and hoses from underneath. Those top-load pumps are technically self-cleaning but they absolutely still get jammed by coins and hair ties.

F21 vs F9 E1 on Maytag, are they the same thing?

Essentially yes, just different generations. F21 showed up on older Maytag front-load units, while F9 E1 is what the newer Alpha and VMW platform machines throw. Both mean the control board didn't see the water level drop within its allowed time window, usually somewhere between 8 and 10 minutes. The fix for both starts in the same place: check the pump filter and the drain hose for blockages before you assume the pump motor is dead.

Can I keep using my Maytag if it's not draining?

I'd really recommend you don't. Water sitting in the drum breeds mold and mildew fast and that smell gets into your clothes and the drum gasket. More importantly, if the pump motor's been fighting a blockage for a while, running more cycles just burns it out faster. What could've been a free 10-minute cleaning job becomes a $120-150 pump replacement. Just deal with it before running another load.

How much does a Maytag drain pump replacement cost?

If you're doing it yourself, the pump runs about $80-120 in parts. Part number W10536347 covers a huge range of Maytag and Whirlpool-platform machines so look that up against your specific model number first. If you're calling a tech, expect $150-250 total for the repair including labor. Honestly it's a pretty straightforward DIY job if you're comfortable tipping the machine and using basic hand tools. The swap itself takes maybe 45 minutes once you've pulled the access panel off.

Related Maytag Washer Error Codes

Code: F9E1Maytag F9 E1: Drain Error Code: HUBMaytag Washer Error Codes

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Maytag washerAll Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Lookup Guide Maytag washerHow to Reset a Maytag Washer (3 Methods That Work)Maytag washerMaytag Washer Troubleshooting: Fix 12 Common Problems Maytag washerMaytag Washer F21: Drain Pump Clog or Failure Maytag washerMaytag F03 E01: Pressure Switch or Water Level Fault Maytag washerMaytag F0 E3 Error: Pressure Switch Malfunction

Models Known to Experience NOT-DRAINING Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVWB765FW, MVW7232HW, MHW5630HW, MHW6630HW, MVWC465HW, Bravos XL MVWB835DW, Centennial MVWC415EW

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 15, 2026