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Maytag E2 F3: Temperature Sensor Circuit Open

Quick Answer

Maytag E2 F3 is an open circuit on the water temperature sensor (thermistor). The thermistor clips onto the tub or sits in the water inlet area. Disconnect its 2-pin connector and test with a multimeter: around 10,000-12,000 ohms at room temperature is normal. OL (open) means the sensor has failed and needs replacing (W10467289, about $12-20).

When E2 F3 shows up, the control board literally can't tell if the water's cold or boiling, so it either aborts the cycle or just guesses. I've seen these machines melt delicates because there was zero temp feedback at all. The thermistor's a $12-20 part and takes maybe 20 minutes to swap. Don't keep running hot cycles until this is fixed, especially with anything you care about.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate82% DIY Success
Time to Fix
20–60 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
$12 – $25
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Digital multimeter (auto-range or 20k ohm range)

What Does the E2 F3 Code Mean?

OK so E2 F3 basically means the washer's brain lost contact with its temperature sensor. Could be the sensor died, could be a wire broke somewhere between the sensor and the board. Honestly it's almost always the $15 thermistor. I've replaced probably 40 of these things over the years. One of those repairs where you test first, order the part, and it's done in an afternoon.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Thermistor failed - open circuit50%
Thermistor wiring harness fault30%
Control board thermistor circuit open15%
Sensor displaced from mounting5%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • E2 F3 flashes on the display mid-cycle, usually right after the tub fills and the board tries to check water temperature for the first time.
  • Your clothes come out cold even when you picked warm or hot, because the board defaulted to cold water once it lost the sensor signal.
  • The washer just stops and sits there full of soapy water with the code blinking at you, refusing to go any further.
  • Cycle keeps aborting at the exact same point every single time, right around when it would normally check or start adjusting the water temp.
  • On some MHW models the wash phase runs way longer than normal as the board tries to compensate for the missing temperature data.

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the E2 F3 code?

After swapping the thermistor, unplug the washer for 60 seconds to clear the fault from the board's memory. Plug it back in and run a cold cycle first, something quick like a rinse or express cycle. Watch for E2 F3 to come back. If it stays clear, run a warm cycle next. Don't jump straight to a hot sanitize cycle until you've confirmed the board's reading the new sensor correctly.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverDigital multimeter (auto-range or 20k ohm range)Needle-nose pliersElectrical contact cleanerFlashlight or headlamp

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range1000012000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name
Thermistor / NTC Temperature SensorW10467289 · $12–$25

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the temperature sensor on a Maytag washer?
On front-load MHW models, pull the back panel and look for a small black cylindrical sensor clipped to the outer tub near the heating element at the back or lower portion. Two wires attached to it. On top-loaders it's in the water flow path, usually near the inlet area toward the bottom of the tub. If you can't find it visually, check the wiring diagram. There's usually one taped inside the control panel cover or behind the front lower access panel.
How do I test a washing machine thermistor?
Disconnect the 2-wire connector and set your multimeter to the 20k ohm range. Touch both probes to the thermistor terminals directly. At room temperature (75-80 degrees F) you want 10,000 to 12,000 ohms. OL means it's dead open. Zero means it's shorted. Either way it's bad. The reading drops as temperature rises, so at 100 degrees F it'll be down around 4,000 to 5,000 ohms. That's totally normal NTC behavior, resistance goes down as heat goes up. If it's way outside those ranges at room temp, just replace it.
Can I wash clothes with E2 F3?
Technically the machine might still run, but you really shouldn't, especially not with anything you care about. With no working temperature sensor, the board can't regulate water heat. It might default to cold, or on some cycles it'll just use whatever the inlet water happens to be. I had a customer ignore this code for two weeks and she melted a cashmere sweater in what she thought was a cold cycle. Cold-only loads are probably fine in a pinch, but fix it before you run anything warm or hot.
What resistance should a washer thermistor read?
For the W10467289 thermistor on Maytag washers: around 10,000 to 12,000 ohms at 77 degrees F (25 degrees C). At 100 degrees F it drops to roughly 4,000 to 5,000 ohms. At 130 degrees F you're looking at 2,000 to 3,000 ohms. Resistance goes down as temperature goes up. That's what NTC means. OL at room temp means it's dead open. Zero means it's shorted. Both mean replace it. The part's cheap enough that if you're even close to OL, just swap it.
How long does it take to fix E2 F3 on a Maytag washer?
If it's the thermistor, budget about 30 to 45 minutes once you've got the part in hand. Most of that time is getting the back panel off and back on. The actual sensor swap is maybe 5 minutes. If it's a wiring issue, depends where the break is. Loose connector at the board? Two minutes. Broken wire somewhere in the harness run? Could be an hour if you splice it. Either way, it's a same-day repair if you've already got the part. The thermistor ships fast from most appliance parts suppliers.

Related Maytag Washer Error Codes

Same Fix on Other Brands

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Models Known to Experience E2 F3 Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MHW5500FW, MHW7000XW, MHW6000XW, MHW8100DC, MHW5630HW, MHW3505FW, MHW4200BW, MHW6630HC

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 14, 2026