Maytag E2 F3: Temperature Sensor Circuit Open
Quick Answer
Maytag E2 F3 is an open circuit on the water temperature sensor (thermistor). The thermistor clips onto the tub or sits in the water inlet area. Disconnect its 2-pin connector and test with a multimeter: around 10,000-12,000 ohms at room temperature is normal. OL (open) means the sensor has failed and needs replacing (W10467289, about $12-20).
When E2 F3 shows up, the control board literally can't tell if the water's cold or boiling, so it either aborts the cycle or just guesses. I've seen these machines melt delicates because there was zero temp feedback at all. The thermistor's a $12-20 part and takes maybe 20 minutes to swap. Don't keep running hot cycles until this is fixed, especially with anything you care about.
What Does the E2 F3 Code Mean?
OK so E2 F3 basically means the washer's brain lost contact with its temperature sensor. Could be the sensor died, could be a wire broke somewhere between the sensor and the board. Honestly it's almost always the $15 thermistor. I've replaced probably 40 of these things over the years. One of those repairs where you test first, order the part, and it's done in an afternoon.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Symptoms You May Notice
- E2 F3 flashes on the display mid-cycle, usually right after the tub fills and the board tries to check water temperature for the first time.
- Your clothes come out cold even when you picked warm or hot, because the board defaulted to cold water once it lost the sensor signal.
- The washer just stops and sits there full of soapy water with the code blinking at you, refusing to go any further.
- Cycle keeps aborting at the exact same point every single time, right around when it would normally check or start adjusting the water temp.
- On some MHW models the wash phase runs way longer than normal as the board tries to compensate for the missing temperature data.
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the E2 F3 code?
After swapping the thermistor, unplug the washer for 60 seconds to clear the fault from the board's memory. Plug it back in and run a cold cycle first, something quick like a rinse or express cycle. Watch for E2 F3 to come back. If it stays clear, run a warm cycle next. Don't jump straight to a hot sanitize cycle until you've confirmed the board's reading the new sensor correctly.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
| Part Name | OEM Number | Estimated Price |
|---|---|---|
| Thermistor / NTC Temperature SensorW10467289 · $12–$25 | W10467289 | $12 – $25 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the temperature sensor on a Maytag washer?
How do I test a washing machine thermistor?
Can I wash clothes with E2 F3?
What resistance should a washer thermistor read?
How long does it take to fix E2 F3 on a Maytag washer?
Related Maytag Washer Error Codes
Same Fix on Other Brands
Same Fix Works on These Brands
Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.
Models Known to Experience E2 F3 Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:
MHW5500FW, MHW7000XW, MHW6000XW, MHW8100DC, MHW5630HW, MHW3505FW, MHW4200BW, MHW6630HC
Last verified for technical accuracy on March 14, 2026