Maytag Washer F5 Error Code: Door and Lid Lock Fix

Quick Answer

The F5 code is almost always caused by a faulty lid lock assembly or a broken plastic lid strike. To fix it, ensure the lid strike is properly aligned and clicking into the latch, then replace the lid lock assembly if the error persists.

These F5 errors usually show up once a Maytag hits the three or four year mark, and when they do, the machine won't start or spin, leaving you with a drum full of wet clothes. Ignoring it won't make it worse, but you're not doing laundry until it's fixed. Honestly, most of the time it's a thirty dollar lid lock and a fifteen minute job.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderate85% DIY Success

Time to Fix

15–60 min

Difficulty

beginner

Parts Cost

$30 – $70

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Torx T20 screwdriver

What Does the F5 Code Mean?

When I walk into a laundry room and hear that rapid triple click followed by a beep, I already know I'm looking at an F5. This code's basically an umbrella for any time the control board and the lock assembly stop talking to each other. Whether the lid's physically blocked or the internal solenoid has shorted out, the washer won't spin for safety reasons, and honestly, it shouldn't.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Lid lock assembly failure70%

Broken or misaligned lid strike18%

Wiring harness or connector issues10%

Main control board fault2%

Symptoms You May Notice

F5 E2 or F5 E3 flashes on the display right after you close the lid and press Start
The lid lock light keeps blinking rapidly instead of going solid
Machine won't start at all, just beeps at you and sits there
You hear a clicking or clunking sound like it's trying to lock, but the lid still pops back up
Clothes are trapped inside with standing water and the door won't budge, which is the F5 E4 sub-code

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F5 code?

To clear the code, unplug the washer for at least one full minute. If your lid is physically stuck shut, you need to wait about five minutes after pulling the plug. This gives the wax motor inside the lock assembly enough time to cool down and retract naturally, which should release the lid without you having to force it and break the plastic strike.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverTorx T20 screwdriverMultimeter with resistance modeFlashlight or headlampDamp cloth for cleaningNeedle-nose pliers (for harness connectors)Small flathead screwdriver (for connector tabs)

Service / Diagnostic Mode

With the washer in standby, rotate the dial: Left (one click), Right (three clicks), Left (one click), Right (one click). When lights flash, turn the dial until only 'Done' is lit, then press Start to view saved codes.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range40–150 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Maytag Bravos Lid Lock AssemblyW10838613 · $30–$50	W10838613	$30 – $50
Maytag Maxima Door LatchW10862259 · $40–$70	W10862259	$40 – $70

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the Maytag lid lock to use the washer?

I get asked this a lot, but you really shouldn't try to jump the wires. Modern Maytag boards look for a specific resistance change and timing from the wax motor, so if you just bridge the wires, the board will sense it and throw a different error anyway. Plus, these machines spin fast enough to be genuinely dangerous if that lid ever popped open mid-cycle. It's way cheaper to just replace the thirty dollar lock than to risk an injury or wreck a load of clothes.

F5 E2 only happens sometimes. Is the lock failing?

That's the classic sign of a dying wax motor. As the paraffin element ages, it takes longer and longer to expand enough to hit the lock point. On a cold morning it might fail, but once the laundry room warms up it works fine again. It'll eventually quit on you entirely, usually while the machine's full of soapy water, so I'd swap it out now while it's still somewhat working. The part's cheap and you'll thank yourself later.

What's the difference between F5 E2 and F5 E3?

Think of it like this: E2 is a mechanical failure where the bolt didn't actually move, and E3 is a communication failure where the bolt moved but the switch didn't tell the board about it. In the field, I find a worn out lock assembly or a misaligned strike causes both. Replacing the entire lock unit is almost always the permanent fix because the internal switch and the motor are built into one housing, so there's no way to replace just one part of it.

How much does it cost to fix the F5 error on a Maytag washer?

Honestly, it depends on what's bad. The lid lock assembly itself runs about thirty to fifty dollars on a top-loader, or forty to seventy on a front-loader. If you're doing it yourself, that's your whole bill. If you're calling a tech, add sixty to a hundred in labor on top of that. The control board is the expensive scenario, anywhere from a hundred to two hundred for the part alone. But nine times out of ten it's just the lock assembly or a dirty strike plate, so don't panic about the board yet.

Why does my Maytag F5 error keep coming back after I clear it?

If it keeps coming back, you haven't fixed the root cause yet. Clearing the code just resets the counter, it doesn't fix a worn out wax motor or a corroded switch. The most common reason I see it return is that someone cleaned the strike and thought they were done, but the wax motor was already half-dead and worked for a few cycles before failing again. If the error's coming back repeatedly, just replace the lid lock assembly. Don't waste more time cleaning things that aren't the real problem.

Related Maytag Washer Error Codes

Code: HUBMaytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Guide Code: F5 E2Maytag F5 E2: Lock Did Not Engage

Models Known to Experience F5 Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVWB765FW, MVWX655DW, MVWB835DW, MHW5500FW, MHW4300DW, MVWC565FW, MVWB855DC

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 15, 2026