The F5 E2 code means your washer lid cannot lock properly. Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a broken lid latch assembly, a misaligned lid striker, or a loose wiring harness between the lock and the main control board.
F5 E2 basically means the board sent the signal to lock but never got confirmation back. If you ignore this, your washer won't run at all. It's a hard stop. I show up to these calls a lot, and honestly most of the time it's either a busted striker or the latch solenoid gave up. Fix it quick because the part's not expensive, and leaving it means hand-wringing laundry.
So here's the deal with F5 E2. Your washer's brain fired a signal to lock the lid, and nothing came back. No confirmation, no cycle. I've seen this probably 40 times this year alone, mostly on Maytag top-loaders from 2015 onward. Usually it's a $60-80 part and an hour of your afternoon. Brand-specific thing to know: Maytag latch assemblies are notorious for the solenoid burning out after 3-4 years of heavy use.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Faulty Lid Lock Assembly65%
Damaged or Misaligned Lid Striker20%
Wiring Harness Issues10%
Main Control Board Failure5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Washer clicks several times at start
Lid remains unlocked during cycle
Sensing light flashes indefinitely
Washer refuses to enter spin cycle
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F5 E2 code?
Unplug the washer and leave it unplugged for a full 60 seconds, don't cheat it. While it's unplugged, open and close the lid six times within 12 seconds, this signals a reset to the microprocessor. Plug it back in and run a Drain and Spin cycle. If the code's gone, you're good. If it comes right back, you've got a hardware problem and a reset won't help.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverPutty knifeMultimeterFlashlightPick tool or wooden skewerDamp cloth
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range80–120 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid lock on a Maytag washer?
Don't do it. I know it's tempting when you're staring at a pile of laundry, but these modern Maytag boards use a digital handshake with specific resistance and timing that a jumper wire can't fake. Beyond the board rejecting it anyway, you'd be running a machine that can open mid-spin and hurt someone. The lid lock exists because top-loaders spin at 800+ RPM and an open lid during that is genuinely dangerous. Just fix it the right way. It's a $60-80 part.
Why does my washer click three times before showing F5 E2?
That clicking is the solenoid trying to throw the bolt. The control board makes three attempts, and each one you hear as a click. If none of them get the locked confirmation back from the switch inside the assembly, the board gives up and throws the code. Three clicks usually means the solenoid is working electrically but something is physically stopping the bolt. Check for obstructions and striker alignment first before assuming you need a new lock.
Will a reset fix an F5 E2 error code?
Maybe, but probably not. If the code came on after a power surge or a one-time glitch, a reset can clear it and you're done. But if it comes back the next load, something is physically or electrically broken and no amount of resets will fix it. I'd say maybe 15% of the F5 E2 calls I go on are solved by a reset alone. The rest need a new latch, wiring repair, or occasionally a board.
How much does it cost to fix a Maytag lid lock?
The part is usually $60-80 for genuine Maytag, maybe $40-50 for aftermarket. If you're doing it yourself, that's your whole cost and it's about a 45-minute job. If you're calling a tech, expect $180-280 total depending on your area and whether it's a same-day call. Worth doing yourself if you're even a little comfortable with basic repairs. It's honestly one of the easier fixes on these machines.
What if I replaced the lid lock and I'm still getting F5 E2?
First thing I check in this situation is whether the code got cleared from the board's memory after the repair. If you just swapped the part and plugged it back in without running the diagnostic clear procedure, the board might still be holding the old fault. Go back through the diagnostic mode and clear it. If it's still throwing the code after that, check the wiring harness more carefully. Sometimes there's a break in the wire itself that a visual inspection misses. Flex each section of wire while watching for continuity on your meter.
Is F5 E2 the same as F5 E3 on Maytag washers?
Close but not the same. F5 E2 is a lid lock failure, meaning the board can't confirm the lid locked. F5 E3 is usually a lid unlock failure, where the machine finished the cycle but the lid won't open. Both involve the lid lock assembly, and honestly both often point to the same failed part. But if you're getting E3, check that the solenoid isn't stuck in the locked position rather than failing to engage at all.
Models Known to Experience F5 E2 Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: