Split into two scenarios early: no lights at all (power issue) vs lights on but won't start (control or door issue). No lights: check GFCI outlet, tripped breaker, power cord, or terminal block.
Honestly, nine out of ten calls I get for this are either a tripped GFCI outlet or someone accidentally hit the Control Lock button. Both take about 30 seconds to fix. But if it's neither of those, you're probably looking at a lid switch, door lock, or blown thermal fuse. Don't let it sit. If there's water stuck in that drum, it'll start smelling fast.
OK so here's the deal. Your Maytag won't start and you basically have two completely different problems depending on whether the lights are on or not. No lights at all? That's a power delivery issue and you can usually fix it yourself in five minutes. Lights on but nothing happens? The control system is blocking the cycle start, usually for a reason you can actually diagnose without any tools. Parts for these are cheap and widely available since Maytag and Whirlpool share most of their components.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Tripped GFCI outlet or circuit breaker (no power)40%
Control Lock (LOC) active - washer has power but won't respond to buttons24%
Failed lid switch assembly (top-load: has power but won't initiate cycle)14%
Thermal fuse blown (front-load Maxima models)12%
Failed door lock assembly (front-load: won't start cycle without confirmed lock)10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Completely dark, no lights, no sounds, absolutely nothing happens when you press any button
Display shows cycle settings or a clock but pressing Start does nothing at all
LOC or a padlock icon showing on the display or panel
Lid or door closes normally but the cycle still won't kick off no matter what you press
Machine made a clicking sound like it was about to start, then went quiet and stopped responding entirely
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the SYMPTOM code?
If the display is on but Start won't work, check for LOC first and clear it by holding the Control Lock button 3-5 seconds. Then try a soft reset: press and hold Power for 5 seconds until the display clears. Still nothing? Unplug from the wall for a full 60 seconds, plug back in, wait 30 seconds, then press Power. That clears any stuck fault codes. On front-loaders, make sure the door is fully seated before trying Start again after a reset.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriver (for panel clips and prying tabs)Digital multimeter (set to continuity or ohms for switch and fuse testing)Non-contact voltage tester (verify power is off before touching wiring)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Did the fix not work?
If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your washer is showing:
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my Maytag washer have no lights at all?
A completely dark washer is a power delivery problem. Don't start pulling panels yet. Check in this order: press the Reset button on the GFCI outlet first, that's the fix about half the time and takes 10 seconds. Then look at your breaker panel for a tripped laundry circuit breaker. Then make sure the power cord is fully plugged in, it sounds obvious but it happens. Plug something else into the outlet to confirm it actually has power. If the outlet is live and the washer is still dead, the power cord or the terminal block inside the machine is your next target, and that usually means calling a tech unless you're comfortable with electrical work.
Why do the lights come on but the washer won't start?
Power's there but something's blocking the cycle. Go through this in order. Check for LOC on the display first and hold the lock button 3-5 seconds to clear it. No LOC? Close the lid or door firmly and try Start again. On top-loaders the lid switch is the number one cause of this exact symptom. On front-loaders, the door lock assembly fails pretty commonly and the machine just won't start without confirming the door is locked. Also check the display for any stored fault code like F5 E2 for the door lock or F7 E1 for motor issues. Those codes point you directly at the failed part.
Is there a fuse inside my Maytag washer?
Yeah. The front-load Maxima series has a thermal fuse in the wiring harness near the main control board. It's not resettable, it blows once and you replace it. Usually happens after a power surge or if the machine runs hot for too long. The part itself is like $8-15, it's just annoying to get to behind the control board. Top-load Centennial and Bravos models don't have the same setup, but they do have a thermal overload on the motor that'll reset itself once the motor cools back down. That one doesn't require any parts replacement.
Can a power surge damage a Maytag washer?
Yeah and I see it a lot after bad storms. The main control board takes the hit and either dies completely or gets stuck in a weird state where it powers on but won't run anything. The board for most of these models is shared across the Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana lineup so replacements are easy to find, usually $60-150 for the part. Worth putting a surge protector on the outlet, but make sure it's rated for motor loads and not just electronics. A basic power strip won't do anything useful. Replacement boards for Maytag usually come pre-programmed so you don't need to flash firmware.
How do I know if it's the lid switch versus the control board?
Here's the easy test. If you can get any response from the machine at all, like the display changes when you press buttons or you hear a relay click, the control board is probably fine. Control boards tend to be all-or-nothing when they fail. Lid switches and door locks fail in a really specific way: the machine looks totally ready to go, display is on, cycle is selected, but it just won't engage when you hit Start. Test the lid switch with a multimeter in about 5 minutes. If it's got continuity when you press the plunger, the switch is good and you look elsewhere. Lid switch replacement runs about $20-40, door lock assemblies are $35-80 depending on the model.