Check for a kinked drain hose or a clogged pump filter first. Nine times out of ten, a small item like a coin or a sock is obstructing the impeller. If the pump makes a humming sound but does not move water, the motor is likely seized and needs replacement.
Drainage failures are honestly the most common Maytag call I get, and most of the time it's something stupidly simple. A quarter, a hairpin, a chunk of lint. If you ignore it, the machine just sits there with a tub full of standing water and you'll eventually burn out the pump motor trying to push through whatever's clogging it. Don't wait on this one.
So your Maytag's done washing but the water's still sitting there, sloshing around when you open the lid. Happens constantly. A new drain pump is 40-70 bucks and a straightforward swap if it comes to that, but honestly most of the time it's just a blocked filter or a kinked hose. I've fixed this exact problem three times in the past two weeks alone. Front-loaders are worse about it because of where they put the pump filter.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Clogged Pump or Filter50%
Failed Drain Pump Motor30%
Kinked or Blocked Drain Hose15%
Control Board or Wiring Issue5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Water just sitting there in the drum after the cycle's done, sometimes 4-6 inches deep.
This loud grinding or growling noise during what should be the drain cycle, kind of like the machine is trying really hard but nothing's happening.
Cycle stops dead after the wash portion and the drum never spins, clothes still sopping wet.
LD or F9E1 shows up on the display, which is Maytag's way of telling you it gave up on draining.
You open the door and your clothes feel like you wrung them out by hand, heavy and dripping, because there was never a proper spin.
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the NO-DRAIN code?
Unplug the washer from the wall outlet. Wait a full 60 seconds, not 10, not 30, a whole minute. Plug it back in. On top-load models, open and close the lid six times within 12 seconds to reset the motor controller. Then select a Drain and Spin cycle only and let it run through completely to confirm the issue is cleared before running a full load.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriverNeedle-nose pliersDigital multimeterShallow drain pan (1-2 gallon capacity)Wet-dry shop vacuumFlashlight or headlampTowels or old ragsTape measure
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range10–30 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Maytag washer humming but not draining?
That hum means the pump motor's getting electricity but the impeller can't turn. Usually a hard object like a coin, screw, or bra underwire is jammed in there. Get to the pump filter first and check the impeller housing with your fingers. If you clear everything out and it's still just humming, the motor bearings have seized and the pump's done. You can test the winding resistance with a multimeter, 10-30 ohms is normal, open circuit means it's burned out.
How do I manually drain a Maytag washer?
Best way is a wet-dry shop vac on the end of the drain hose. Sucks it right out. If you don't have one, disconnect the drain hose from the standpipe and lower it into a floor-level bucket. Water will flow fast by gravity, so have two buckets staged and swap quick. You can also access the small drain hose behind the pump filter access panel on front-loaders and drain it that way before you open the main filter cap, which saves a lot of mess.
Can a bad lid switch prevent a Maytag washer from draining?
On older top-load Maytag models, yes, absolutely. The lid switch has to confirm the lid is closed before the machine will move into the spin and drain portion of the cycle. If that switch is cracked or corroded, the washer just sits there after the wash with a full tub and won't move forward. You can test it with a multimeter for continuity. When the lid is closed it should show continuity, open circuit with the lid down means the switch is bad. Replacement is usually 15-25 bucks.
Where is the drain pump filter located on a Maytag front loader?
It's behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine, usually on the lower right side. Some older models don't have that small door and you have to remove the entire lower toe kick panel to get to it. Once the panel's off you'll see the round filter cap and sometimes a small drain hose next to it. That small hose is your friend, open it first to drain the water slowly before cracking the main cap. Clean that filter every 6 months and you'll have way fewer drain problems.
How much does it cost to replace a Maytag drain pump?
The part itself usually runs 40-70 dollars for a genuine Maytag pump assembly, sometimes less for an aftermarket version. If you're doing it yourself, figure maybe an hour of work, a little more on your first try. If you're calling a tech, add 100-150 dollars in labor on top of the part. Total repair is usually 150-220 dollars professionally done. Honestly it's one of the more DIY-friendly repairs on these machines, just a few screws and a wire harness connector once you get the access panel off.
Models Known to Experience NO-DRAIN Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: