Maytag Washer E3 Error Code: Motor or Drive System Fault

Quick Answer

Maytag E3 is a motor system sub-code. On newer Maytag models using the F/E system, E3 appears as part of codes like F0 E3 (overload/load too large), F5 E3 (lid lock engaged but switch unconfirmed), or F6 E3 (communication fault).

When I see an E3 on a Maytag, my first thought is usually a heavy comforter or a load of soaked jeans that the motor just can't turn. It can point to a lid lock or a board communication glitch, but it's most often the machine protecting itself from burning out the motor. If your washer stopped mid-cycle with a tub full of water, you're probably dealing with a weight issue or a physical obstruction in the drive system.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderate80% DIY Success

Time to Fix

10–120 min

Difficulty

beginner

Parts Cost

$30 – $80

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flat-head screwdriver

What Does the E3 Code Mean?

Think of the E3 as a stress signal from your washer. It's telling you the motor's working harder than it should, or it's not hearing back from the lid lock or the main control board. Before you start buying parts, figure out if this is simple user error from overloading or if the tub bearings have worn out and are creating too much drag. Most of the time? It's the load. Seriously.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

F0 E3: load too large for washer40%

F5 E3: lid lock switch not confirming24%

F6 E3: board communication error14%

Worn tub bearings causing motor strain12%

Standalone E3: motor overcurrent from overload10%

Symptoms You May Notice

E3 or F0 E3 flashes on the display and the cycle just freezes right there, won't budge
The drum makes a low, labored humming sound for a few seconds and then goes quiet, like the motor tried and gave up
You've got a sopping wet load sitting in a tub full of water and nothing's moving at all
Lid lock light flashes repeatedly even though the lid is clearly shut and latched, which is the F5 E3 telling you the switch isn't confirming
Spin cycle starts, the machine vibrates violently for a few seconds, then stops and throws the code

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the E3 code?

Press Pause/Cancel twice to kill the current cycle. Unplug the washer and wait a full 60 seconds, not just 10. Plug it back in. If the load was heavy, pull some items out before you restart. Run a Drain and Spin cycle first to clear any water. If the code doesn't come back and the spin runs clean, you're good to go for a normal cycle.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriverMultimeter with capacitance modeBucket or old towels for water extractionNeedle-nose pliersWork gloves

Service / Diagnostic Mode

With washer plugged in and off, rotate the dial: Left 1 click, Right 3 clicks, Left 1 click. All indicator lights should flash at once. Turn the dial right one click at a time to scroll through saved F/E fault codes on the display.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Maytag Lid Lock AssemblyW10838613 · $30–$50	W10838613	$30 – $50
Tub Bearing KitW10435302 · $40–$80	W10435302	$40 – $80

Frequently Asked Questions

Is E3 the same as F0 E3?

Not exactly, but they're cousins. On the newer vertical modular washers, E3 is just the second half of the message. Think of the F-code as the where and the E-code as the what. If you just see E3 blinking on an older digital display, it's almost always the motor's internal protector tripping because the load is too heavy or the bearings are failing. Newer machines will show the full F0 E3 or F5 E3 so you get a clearer picture of what's actually wrong.

E3 only happens with towels and blankets. Is my washer too small?

It's less about washer size and more about how these items distribute. When towels or a heavy comforter bunch up on one side, the motor has to work twice as hard to get that unbalanced mass moving. Wash bulky items on the Bulky or Deep Water setting. More water helps things float and balance themselves out, which drops the load on the motor dramatically. Also, don't pack the drum full. Bulky items need room to tumble, not just sit there in a wet lump.

Can E3 damage my washer motor?

The E3 code is actually your motor's best friend. It's a safety shut-off that triggers when the electrical current gets too high. One or two E3 errors won't kill the machine. But making a habit of overloading it will eventually cook the start capacitor or wear out the motor windings. If you hear a loud humming but no movement, stop trying to reset it and check for a physical jam or a bad capacitor immediately. Repeated overloading is the number one way people end up needing a $200 motor.

How do I know if it's the bearings causing my E3?

Spin the empty tub by hand with the power off. It should spin smoothly and coast for a second or two. If it stops immediately, feels stiff, or makes any grinding or roaring noise, that's your answer. Also check for rust-colored water or gunk around the center of the drum. Bearing seals usually fail before the bearing itself, so you get water intrusion that accelerates wear fast. Budget around $150-250 for the bearing kit plus a few hours of work. It's not a quick job, but it's doable.

Could a bad control board cause E3 on my Maytag?

Yeah, it can, especially F6 E3 which is literally a board communication fault. But check the connectors first before you drop $200 on a board. Unplug the washer, pop the control panel, and reseat every connector you can find. The wire harness connector between the main board and the motor control unit can work itself loose from vibration over thousands of cycles. If reseating the connectors and clearing the code doesn't fix F6 E3 after a couple more cycles, then yeah, one of the boards is probably failing.

Related Maytag Washer Error Codes

Code: HUBMaytag Washer Error Codes

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Maytag washerAll Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Lookup Guide Maytag washerHow to Reset a Maytag Washer (3 Methods That Work)Maytag washerMaytag Washer Troubleshooting: Fix 12 Common Problems Maytag washerMaytag Washer F21: Drain Pump Clog or Failure Maytag washerMaytag F03 E01: Pressure Switch or Water Level Fault Maytag washerMaytag F0 E3 Error: Pressure Switch Malfunction

Models Known to Experience E3 Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVWB765FW, MVWX655DW, MVWC565FW, MVWC555DW, MVWB835DW, MVWB955FW, MVWC415EW, MVWP575GW

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 15, 2026