Maytag Washer Loud Noise During Spin: Bearing, Coupler

Quick Answer

Maytag washer noises are diagnosed by SOUND TYPE. A rumbling/roaring that gets louder during spin = tub bearing failure.

Honestly, most people ignore a small rumble until it sounds like a freight train in the laundry room. By the time I get called out, a failing bearing has usually leaked rusty water right onto the drive motor or the floor. Catch a faint roar early and you might save the machine. But once it's screaming during high-speed spin, you're looking at a major teardown of the outer tub, and that's not a fun afternoon.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate80% DIY Success

Time to Fix

15–90 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$8 – $70

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flat-head screwdriver

Maytag Washer Loud Noise During Spin: Bearing, Coupler

Don't let the Commercial Technology sticker on your Maytag fool you. These units use higher spin speeds that naturally create more windage noise, sure, but any metallic grinding or rhythmic thumping is a sign of mechanical trouble. I always check the tub's physical play first, before I even pull a panel off. That one test tells me 80% of what I need to know.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Tub bearing worn - rumbling/roaring during spin40%

Motor coupler breaking - grinding during agitation (Centennial)24%

Clutch assembly slipping - squealing during spin14%

Suspension rod dampers worn - bang at spin start (Bravos XL)12%

Foreign object between tubs - clicking/thumping10%

Symptoms You May Notice

A low rumbling during spin that builds as the speed increases, kind of like a diesel truck driving past your house, and it gets a little worse every single week.
Metal-on-metal grinding specifically during the wash stroke when the agitator moves back and forth, but it's actually quiet during spin.
A sharp squeal or screech right when the tub transitions to high-speed spin, then it levels off or stops.
Rhythmic clicking or thumping that hits on every rotation of the basket, perfectly timed, like a metronome.
One loud BANG when the machine shifts into spin, then relative quiet for the rest of the cycle.
Brown rusty stains or grease marks appearing on the floor under the machine or inside the cabinet when you pull the lid off.
Metallic scraping that gets noticeably louder when you add more clothes to the load.

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the NOISE code?

A reset won't fix a bad bearing or coupler, but it can clear a temporary control board fault if a one-time imbalance event triggered a noise code. Unplug the unit for a full 60 seconds, then plug it back in. On most Maytag top-loaders, rotate the cycle dial left one click, then right three clicks, then left one click, then right one click. The indicator lights should flash to confirm you're in service mode. Let it run through the diagnostic cycle to clear any stored codes before you test again.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriverFlashlight or headlampMultimeterSpanner wrench or tub nut socketNeedle-nose pliersWork glovesOld bath towels or shop rags

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your washer is showing:

HUB Error →NOT-SPINNING Error →

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Maytag Tub Bearing and Seal KitW10435302 · $30–$50	W10435302	$30 – $50
Maytag Motor Coupler285753A · $8–$15	285753A	$8 – $15
Maytag Clutch AssemblyW10721967 · $40–$70	W10721967	$40 – $70
Maytag Suspension Rod Kit (Bravos XL)W10780048 · $15–$25	W10780048	$15 – $25

Frequently Asked Questions

Maytag washer making grinding noise during wash. What is it?

On Centennial and older top-loaders, that grinding is almost always the motor coupler or a stripped drive hub. The hub is a plastic component that connects the basket to the transmission, and if you've been overloading the machine regularly, those plastic teeth strip out and make a nasty chatter. The motor coupler itself runs about $15, and the drive hub is $20-30. They're both pretty accessible once you tip the machine back, but you do have to pull the agitator to get to the hub, which adds a step.

Maytag washer rumbling gets worse over weeks. Should I stop using it?

Yeah, honestly you should take it seriously. A roar that gets louder every week is classic bearing failure. The center seal leaks, soapy water gets into the steel ball bearings, they rust and pit, and the vibration just keeps building. If you keep running it hard, the bearing eventually seizes or the outer race fractures, and now you're also dealing with a damaged outer tub or a fried motor. If you see brown grease splattered inside the cabinet, stop using it and replace the bearing before it takes out something way more expensive.

Loud bang when Maytag Bravos XL starts spinning. Dangerous?

The Bravos XL uses a floating tub suspended by four rods with dampening springs at the bottom. When the grease in those springs dries out or the plastic cups crack, the tub wobbles and slams into the metal cabinet when spin kicks in. Sounds exactly like a gunshot. I've had customers call me convinced the machine exploded. It's not immediately dangerous but it'll eventually crack the outer tub or damage the cabinet if you keep running it. Replacing all four suspension rods, about $40-60 for the set, usually settles it right down.

How much does it cost to fix a Maytag washer bearing?

Parts run $20-80 depending on whether you buy just the bearing or a full bearing and seal kit. But the real cost is in the labor, because getting to the bearing means a complete teardown of the outer tub, which is 2-3 hours of work on a top-loader and even longer on a front-loader. A shop will charge $200-350 in labor on top of parts. On machines over 8 years old, you genuinely have to weigh that repair cost against putting that money toward a new machine. I've had customers go both ways and both decisions made sense depending on the situation.

Can I keep using my Maytag washer if it's making noise?

Depends on the noise. A clicking from a trapped coin? Fine to keep using it short-term while you figure out how to fish the object out. But a rumbling or roaring during spin? Stop using it, or at least limit it to small loads on low spin speed. Running a failing bearing hard just accelerates the damage and turns a $200 repair into a $400 one when it takes out the motor or cracks the outer tub. The machine's telling you something's wrong, and it's worth listening before it goes from expensive to not worth fixing.

Related Maytag Washer Error Codes

Code: HUBMaytag Washer Error Codes Code: NOT-SPINNINGMaytag Washer Not Spinning

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Maytag shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Maytag washerAll Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Lookup Guide Maytag washerHow to Reset a Maytag Washer (3 Methods That Work)Maytag washerMaytag Washer Troubleshooting: Fix 12 Common Problems Maytag washerMaytag Washer F21: Drain Pump Clog or Failure Maytag washerMaytag F03 E01: Pressure Switch or Water Level Fault Maytag washerMaytag F0 E3 Error: Pressure Switch Malfunction

Models Known to Experience NOISE Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVWB765FW, MVW7232HW, MHW5630HW, MHW6630HW, MVWC465HW, Bravos XL MVWB835DW, Centennial MVWC415EW

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 15, 2026