The most common cause of a shaking Maytag washer is the machine being out of level. Each corner has an adjustable leveling foot that screws in or out.
Most of the time when I get called out for a shaking Maytag, it's something stupid simple, like the leveling feet backed off over time or somebody crammed a king-size comforter in a machine that's way too small for it. But ignore it long enough and you're looking at blown shock absorbers, cracked drum mounts, or a machine that literally walked into your cabinets. Fix it now, not after the damage is done.
MaytagWasherSeverity: low
Time to Fix
15–90 min
Difficulty
beginner
Parts Cost
$0 (no parts needed)
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Adjustable wrench or pliers (for leveling foot jam nuts)
Maytag Washer Shaking Violently? How to Stop It
OK so here's the deal. Your washer is basically a giant spinning weight on a frame, and when something throws that weight off balance, the whole machine tries to compensate by shaking. It's one of the most common calls I get. Usually costs nothing to fix if you catch it early. Nine times out of ten it's just the leveling feet or a lopsided load.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Washer not level on floor (most common)40%
Shipping bolts still installed on front-load washer back panel24%
Unbalanced laundry load bunched to one side14%
Worn shock absorbers (front-load)12%
Worn suspension rods (top-load, W10780048)10%
Symptoms You May Notice
The washer is literally walking across the laundry room floor mid-spin cycle
Loud rhythmic thumping that gets worse as spin speed increases, not better
The spin cycle stops dead mid-cycle because the machine detected an imbalance and killed the motor
Dishes rattling in the kitchen or pictures shaking on the wall when it hits high spin speed
Display showing an Ld error or the machine rocking like it might tip forward
Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the SYMPTOM code?
After fixing the leveling or pulling out the shipping bolts, run a Spin Only cycle with a small balanced load and listen for the shaking to drop off as the machine ramps up. If it's still going, go back through the steps. You don't need a full reset unless an error code is showing. If one is, unplug for 60 seconds, plug back in, and start fresh.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverAdjustable wrench or pliers (for leveling foot jam nuts)14mm socket or wrench (shipping bolt removal)17mm socket or wrench (shipping bolt removal, some models)Bubble levelFlashlightWork gloves (sheet metal edges inside the cabinet are sharp)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Did the fix not work?
If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your washer is showing:
Because that's when the drum is spinning fast enough to make any imbalance really obvious. At low speeds a slightly off-balance load doesn't matter much. But once it ramps up to 800 or 1000 RPM, even a small weight difference side-to-side turns into serious vibration. If it smooths out once the machine hits full speed, that's usually just the machine working through a slightly uneven load. If it gets worse as it speeds up, something's actually wrong, probably leveling, a worn suspension component, or both.
How do I level a Maytag washer?
Tip the front of the washer back so the front feet lift off the floor, then spin each foot in or out by hand to adjust height. Clockwise raises that corner, counterclockwise lowers it. Set it back down and put a bubble level on top. You want it dead level both directions. Lock each foot by tightening the jam nut up against the bottom of the cabinet. On most Maytag models the rear feet are self-leveling, they adjust automatically when you tip the machine forward and set it back down.
What are shipping bolts and where are they?
They're big hex-head bolts, usually 14mm or 17mm, that go through the back panel of a front-load washer to lock the drum rigid during shipping. Without them the drum would bang around in the truck and get destroyed. Usually 3 to 4 bolts, sometimes with colored plastic spacers. They have to come out before you ever run the machine. Most manufacturers stick a warning label on the back panel but honestly those get missed constantly. I've gone out on service calls for brand-new machines where this was literally the only problem.
Can a shaking washer damage the floor?
Yeah, definitely. A washer that's walking will dent vinyl, scratch hardwood, and chip grout on tile. But honestly the floor is the least of your worries. The bigger issue is what it does to the machine itself. All that vibration accelerates wear on the drum bearings, stresses the outer tub welds, and can work the inlet hoses and drain hose loose over time. A connection that pulls free while you're at work is a way bigger problem than a few floor scratches.
How much does it cost to fix a shaking Maytag washer?
Depends on the cause. Leveling? Free. Shipping bolts? Free. Redistributing a lopsided load? Free. If you need suspension rods on a top-loader, figure around $30 to $50 for a set of four and they're pretty manageable to swap yourself. Shock absorbers on a front-loader run $40 to $80 for a pair. If it turns out to be drum bearings, that's a bigger job, usually $150 to $300 in parts alone, and at that point you're seriously weighing it against the age of the machine.