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ErrBase

Maytag Washer F5 E2 Error Code: Lid Lock Repair Guide

Quick Answer

An F5 E2 error means your lid lock is failing to engage properly. Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a faulty lid lock assembly, a misaligned lid strike, or a simple obstruction preventing the latch from clicking into place.

When your Maytag throws F5 E2, it's basically saying it can't lock the lid so it's not spinning anything. Ignore it and you've got a machine that won't run at all. I usually see this after a few years of use when the solenoid inside that latch assembly finally gives up, or when someone slams the lid one too many times and bends the strike. The good news is it's one of the more fixable errors on these machines.

MaytagWasherSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success
Time to Fix
20–60 min
Difficulty
intermediate
Parts Cost
—
Tools Needed
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flat-head screwdriver or putty knife

What Does the F5 E2 Code Mean?

In my fifteen years of service, I've found this code usually pops up after the washer tries to lock three times and fails. It can sometimes be a loose wire harness, but you're typically looking at a mechanical failure inside the locking mechanism itself. And if the lid doesn't sit perfectly flush, that lock bolt's never going to find its home. Replacement parts are cheap and it's a realistic DIY fix.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Mechanical Lid Lock Failure75%
Lid Alignment or Strike Damage15%
Wiring or Connection Issues8%
Main Control Board Glitch2%

Symptoms You May Notice

  • You hear the lid lock try to click two or three times in quick succession the moment you hit start, and then the machine just sits there dead while the error code blinks on the display.
  • The wash cycle never starts at all. No water, no drum movement, the lid lock indicator light just flashes at you.
  • You can physically lift the lid right after hitting start, which you definitely shouldn't be able to do if the lock is working.
  • The washer starts fine, fills with water, then stops mid-cycle and throws F5 E2, usually right before the spin cycle when the board re-checks the lock status.
  • There's a grinding or scraping sound when you close the lid, like plastic dragging on plastic, which usually points to a bent strike or the hinges being out of alignment.

Can you reset a Maytag washer to clear the F5 E2 code?

After fixing the issue, unplug the washer for a full minute. Don't cheat it and plug it back in after 10 seconds. Plug it back in, then open and close the lid six times within 12 seconds. The board uses that sequence to confirm the lock's working and clears the stored fault code. If F5 E2 comes right back, you haven't fixed the root cause yet.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriver or putty knifeDigital multimeterNeedle-nose pliersFlashlight or headlampWork gloves

Service / Diagnostic Mode

Rotate dial Left, Right, Right, Right, Left. Display changes when you're in service mode. Navigate right to access the lid lock manual test function.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range50–150 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the lid lock on my Maytag washer?
No, you can't just jump the wires and call it done. Modern Maytag control boards look for a specific resistance change and a timed feedback signal from the lock circuit. If the board doesn't see the lock cycle correctly, it'll stay stuck in F5 E2 no matter what you do to the wiring. And honestly, bypassing a lid lock on a top-loader is genuinely dangerous. That lid needs to be locked before the drum spins at 800+ RPM.
Why does my washer click three times before showing F5 E2?
The control board's programmed to try locking the lid three separate times before it gives up. It pulses the solenoid, waits for the feedback signal, and if it doesn't come, tries again. Three strikes and it throws the code to protect the motor from running with an open lid. So if you hear click, pause, click, pause, click, then the code appears, that's the board doing exactly what it's supposed to do.
Is the F5 E2 code always a broken part?
Not always, honestly. Sometimes a heavy comforter or bulky item pushes up against the lid from the inside and physically prevents the latch from engaging. I always tell people to check that first before assuming anything's broken. Also check that nothing fell into the latch hole. I've cleared this code with a toothpick and two minutes of cleaning more times than I can count.
How much does it cost to fix an F5 E2 error?
If you DIY it, a new lid lock assembly runs $50-$120 depending on your model. Part number WPW10404050 fits a ton of these Maytag top-loaders. A pro repair visit is usually $200-$350 total with labor and parts. The part itself takes maybe 30 minutes to swap once you've got the top panel off, so it's a pretty reasonable DIY if you're comfortable with basic appliance work.
How do I know if it's the lid lock or the control board causing F5 E2?
Test the lock with a multimeter first. If the solenoid reads 50-150 ohms and the wiring's clean and connected, but the lock still won't engage in diagnostic mode, that's pointing at the control board. Boards are way more expensive, like $200-$400 for the part alone, so you really want to rule out the lock first. In my experience, it's the lock assembly probably 85% of the time. Control board failures that cause only F5 E2 are pretty rare.

Models Known to Experience F5 E2 Errors

This repair applies to most Maytag washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

MVW7232HW, MVWB865GW, MVW6200KW, MVWB955FC, MVW5035MW, MVWC565FW, MVW7230HC, MVWB835DC

MS

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026