When a Maytag compressor refuses to start, the most likely culprit is a failed start relay or a faulty cold control thermostat. Listen for a distinct clicking sound every few minutes, which signifies the compressor is trying to start but tripping on its thermal overload protector.
Here's what happens if you ignore this: your food's gone in 4-6 hours, sometimes less in summer. But most of the time this isn't a dead compressor situation. I'd say 7 out of 10 calls I go on for this exact symptom, it's just a $15 start relay. The compressor itself is fine. So don't panic and don't call a scrap dealer yet.
Multimeter with AC voltage and resistance/continuity modes, Phillips #2 screwdriver
What Does the COMPRESSOR-OFF Code Mean?
Nine times out of ten this is an electrical problem, not a mechanical one. If your fans are running but the compressor's stone cold and silent, something upstream is blocking power to the start circuit. I've seen it be a rattling start relay, a burnt thermostat contact, or just coils so packed with dog hair and dust that the compressor overheated and gave up. The relay is always my first stop because it's cheap, easy to test, and right there on the side of the compressor.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Start Relay Failure60%
Thermostat or Control Board25%
Compressor Motor Failure10%
Wiring Issues5%
Symptoms You May Notice
Both the fridge and freezer sections are completely warm, not just slightly off, we're talking room temperature after a few hours.
You hear a click from the bottom rear of the unit, sometimes followed by a brief hum or buzz, then another click a couple minutes later. Repeat. That's the overload tripping.
The fans inside are running and blowing air around just fine, but there's zero cold air being produced and the evaporator coils are warm to the touch.
Compressor is warm or hot on the outside but totally silent, or it hums for a second then quits.
Complete silence from the back of the unit. No click, no hum, no vibration at all. Lights are on inside, but the compressor's given up entirely.
Can you reset a Maytag refrigerator to clear the COMPRESSOR-OFF code?
After replacing the start relay or fixing whatever the root cause was, plug the fridge back in and give it a full 30 minutes before expecting it to feel cold. Listen for the compressor to kick on within the first 5 minutes. It should run continuously for a while as it pulls the temps down from room temperature. If it clicks off within 30 seconds of starting, something's still wrong and you'll need to dig deeper.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Multimeter with AC voltage and resistance/continuity modesPhillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverNeedle nose pliersFlashlight or headlampCondenser coil brush or stiff bristle brush
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range3–30 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Maytag fridge clicking but not cooling?
That clicking is the overload protector tripping over and over. Here's what's happening: the start relay tries to give the compressor motor a boost to get it spinning, but something's wrong with the start circuit, so the compressor draws too much current without actually starting, gets hot, and the overload cuts it off before anything burns up. Then it cools down and tries again a few minutes later. Click, hum, click. In most cases a $15-20 start relay kit fixes it completely. I've had customers living with that clicking for two weeks before calling me. Don't wait that long. Every failed start attempt puts stress on the compressor motor.
Can dirty condenser coils actually cause the compressor to stop running?
Yeah, absolutely, and it's way more common than people think. When those coils are packed with dust and pet hair, the compressor can't dump its heat anywhere, so it runs hotter and hotter every cycle. There's a thermal overload built right into the compressor to prevent a meltdown, and when temps get too high, it just shuts everything down. I've seen coils that looked like a felt blanket wrapped around the back of the fridge. Clean them every 6 months if you've got pets in the house, once a year minimum otherwise. A coil brush or a vacuum with a brush attachment works fine.
How do I know if my compressor is actually burnt out vs just the start relay?
The rattle test gets you most of the way there. Pull the relay off and shake it. Rattles means dead relay, full stop. But to confirm the compressor itself is good, you need a multimeter. Test resistance between all three pins, Start, Run, and Common. You should get a reading on every pair, not OL. Then test each pin to the bare metal casing of the compressor. No reading there means no ground fault, which is what you want. If it passes both those tests and you put in a new relay and it still won't run, you're probably looking at a bad control board relay or a burnt thermostat, not a dead compressor.
Is it worth replacing the compressor on an older Maytag refrigerator?
Honestly? Almost never. Compressor replacement means a certified tech has to cut the copper refrigerant lines, swap the compressor, braze new lines, pull a vacuum on the system, and recharge with refrigerant. Parts and labor usually land between $600 and $900 depending on your area. If your fridge is more than 8 years old, you're putting serious money into an aging unit that could fail somewhere else in a year. I usually tell people to put that money toward a new fridge instead. The one exception is a high-end unit that's only a few years old and still has a manufacturer compressor warranty.
What does it mean if the fans run but the compressor is completely silent?
That's actually a useful clue. Fans running tells you the fridge has power and the control system is alive and knows the temperature is too warm. But somewhere between the thermostat or control board and the compressor, the power or the signal isn't getting through. Could be a burnt thermostat, a failed board relay, or a start relay so far gone it won't even attempt a start. Begin with the start relay rattle test. Then check for 120V at the compressor terminals with your multimeter. Those two steps will tell you pretty fast whether power is even reaching the compressor.
How long before I lose all my food if the compressor stops?
If the compressor's been off for a while and the fridge is already warming up, you've got maybe 4 hours before the fresh food section hits unsafe temperatures. The freezer holds longer, usually 24-48 hours if you keep the door shut tight. Don't open the doors more than you absolutely have to. If you can't fix it the same day, move the most important stuff to a cooler with ice. Food safety guidelines put 40°F as the cutoff for the refrigerator section, so grab a thermometer and keep an eye on it while you work through the diagnosis.
Models Known to Experience COMPRESSOR-OFF Errors
This repair applies to most Maytag refrigerators with this error code. Common model numbers include: