Whirlpool Dishwasher Not Heating Water: Diagnosis and

Quick Answer

If your Whirlpool dishwasher is not heating, disconnect power and test the heating element resistance - 15-30 ohms is healthy, OL means it burned out. Check the thermistor next (10-50k ohms). Both parts are inexpensive compared to the control board, so test them before assuming a board failure.

Most of the time when I get called out for this, it's the heating element and it's covered in white calcium scale from hard water. Ignore it long enough and your dishes stay wet, the sanitize cycle does nothing, and you're basically running a cold rinse machine. The element's usually $20-40. The control board if you let it go and fry the relay? That's $150 plus labor. Fix it now.

WhirlpoolDishwasherSeverity: moderateDifficulty: intermediate85% DIY Success

Time to Fix

25–70 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$12 – $280

Tools Needed

Multimeter with ohms and continuity setting, Phillips #2 screwdriver

Whirlpool Dishwasher Not Heating Water: Diagnosis and

OK so here's the deal. Your dishwasher's running full cycles but water stays cold and everything comes out soaking wet. That's almost always the heating element, especially on WDT series models in hard water areas. I replaced three of these last week alone. The element itself runs $20-35 and the job's totally doable for a handy homeowner on a Saturday morning. Test before you buy anything.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Heating element burned out55%

Thermistor fault20%

Control board heater relay failed18%

Thermal fuse blown7%

Symptoms You May Notice

Dishes come out soaking wet at the end of a cycle even with Heated Dry selected. You open the door and everything's dripping like you never ran a dry cycle at all.
The inside of the tub is cold to the touch right after a cycle finishes. Should be noticeably warm in there.
F7 E1 error code on the display, or a 4-3 blink pattern on older models without a digital readout.
Sanitize light never illuminates or the cycle fails to complete the sanitize phase and just stops short.
Glasses and plastic containers have standing water pooled in the bottom of them because there's zero evaporation heat to pull moisture off.

Can you reset a Whirlpool dishwasher to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

After replacing the bad part, plug the machine back in. Press and hold Cancel/Drain for 3 seconds until the display clears or the lights blink. That wipes the F7 E1 fault. Then run a full normal cycle with Heated Dry turned on. Let it finish completely, open the door, and feel the tub wall. Should be warm. Dishes should be dry. If it passes that test, you're done.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Multimeter with ohms and continuity settingPhillips #2 screwdriverTorx T20 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverNon-contact voltage testerMagnetic parts trayNeedle-nose pliers

Service / Diagnostic Mode

Press any 3 buttons (not Power) in sequence three times: A-B-C, A-B-C, A-B-C within 8 seconds. Door closes, diagnostic begins. Alternately on newer models: hold Heated Dry then Normal, then Heated Dry then Normal within 6 seconds.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your dishwasher is showing:

F7 E1 Error →E2 F2 Error →WONT-DRY Error →

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range15–30 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Heating Element AssemblyW10518394 · $35–$65	W10518394	$35 – $65
NTC ThermistorW10057581 · $12–$22	W10057581	$12 – $22
Main Control BoardW10695459 · $150–$280	W10695459	$150 – $280

Frequently Asked Questions

Can my Whirlpool dishwasher still wash dishes if the heater is broken?

Yeah, it'll still run cycles and spray water around. But the water's coming in at whatever your house supply temp is, usually 50-60 degrees in winter, and that's not hot enough to properly clean greasy dishes or kill bacteria. Dishes come out wet because there's no heat to evaporate the water off surfaces. And the sanitize function is completely dead. So technically it washes, but honestly it's doing maybe 40% of the job it's supposed to do.

How much does it cost to fix a Whirlpool dishwasher that won't heat?

If it's the heating element, you're looking at $20-40 for part W10518394 and maybe an hour of your time. Thermistor is even cheaper, usually $12-20. If it turns out to be the control board, that's where it hurts. Board W10695459 runs $120-180 for the part alone, and a tech visit on top of that puts you at $250-350 total. That's exactly why you test the cheap stuff first. Don't buy a board until you've ruled out the element and thermistor.

How do I prevent the heating element from burning out again?

Run a descaling cycle once a month if you're in a hard water area. Citric acid works great and it's cheap. Just dump about a quarter cup in the bottom of the empty dishwasher and run a hot cycle. It dissolves the calcium scale that builds up on the element surface. That scale is what causes the element to overheat and eventually burn out. I've seen elements come out of machines that look like they're coated in white concrete. Don't let it get to that point.

What does the F7 E1 error code mean on a Whirlpool dishwasher?

F7 E1 is the heating error. F7 is the function group (heating system) and E1 is the specific fault, meaning the heater circuit is open or the thermistor is reading out of range. On older models without a display you'll get a 4-3 blink pattern instead. Either way, the board expected to see a temperature rise during the cycle and didn't get one. Could be the element, the thermistor, or the board's own relay. Start with the cheapest parts and work toward the expensive ones.

Is the heating element hard to replace on a Whirlpool dishwasher?

Honestly it's one of the easier dishwasher repairs out there. You're pulling the lower rack, removing the spray arm, disconnecting two wire terminals, and then the element is held by two nuts underneath the tub that you reach by tilting or pulling the machine out slightly. Whole job usually takes 30-45 minutes. The trickiest part is not losing those nuts down into the machine when you're working underneath. Use a magnetic parts tray and thank yourself later.

My dishwasher shows no error code but still won't heat. What's going on?

Some older Whirlpool models don't throw a code for heating failures. They just silently run a cold cycle and let you figure it out. If you're not seeing an error but dishes are wet and cold, go straight to testing the element with a multimeter. Also worth checking whether someone accidentally turned off the Heated Dry option in the settings. I know that sounds too simple but I've been called out for exactly that more times than I'd like to admit.

Related Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes

Code: F7 E1Whirlpool Dishwasher F7 E1 Error Code: Heater Circuit Fault Code: E2 F2Whirlpool Dishwasher E2 F2 Error Code: Water Temperature Low Code: WONT-DRYWhirlpool Dishwasher Wont Dry Dishes: Heater and Rinse Aid Fixes

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Whirlpool shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Whirlpool dishwasherWhirlpool Dishwasher Not Cleaning Dishes: 7 Causes and Fixes

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Whirlpool dishwashers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

WDT780SAEM, WDF550SAHZ, WDT730PAHZ, WDT750SAHZ, WDT970SAHZ, WDF518SAHM, WDT720PADE

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026