Whirlpool Washer F5 E3 Error Code: Lid Lock Fault

Quick Answer

To fix the F5 E3 error, first unplug the washer for two minutes to reset the control board. If the lid remains locked, check for a bent lid strike or a physical obstruction. Most often, the lid lock assembly itself has failed mechanically and requires replacement.

In the field, I usually see F5 E3 when the washer tries to lock three times and just gives up. It's a classic sign of a lazy solenoid or a lid that isn't sitting perfectly flush. If you hear a clicking sound but the cycle won't start, the control board's waiting for a signal that never comes. Most Whirlpool VMW units start showing this after about five years of heavy use, sometimes sooner if the lid's taken some abuse.

WhirlpoolWasherSeverity: moderate85% DIY Success

Time to Fix

20–50 min

Difficulty

beginner

Parts Cost

$15 – $38

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Torx T20 screwdriver

What Does the F5 E3 Code Mean?

This error is the machine's way of saying it doesn't feel safe to spin. On these Whirlpool top-loaders, the tolerance for the lid strike is really tight. Even a slightly bent hinge from someone leaning on the lid can cause the lock bolt to miss the hole and trigger the fault. It's rarely a board issue, so focus your energy on the latch hardware first. I've fixed probably 40 of these in the last two years and maybe three actually needed a new board.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Lid lock assembly mechanical or electrical failure70%

Damaged or misaligned lid strike15%

Wiring harness or connector corrosion10%

Main control board logic fault5%

Symptoms You May Notice

F5 E3 flashes the second you push Start, every single time, no matter what cycle you pick.
You hear one or two faint clicks from the lid area but the drum never moves and the machine just sits there doing nothing.
The washer kicks on for about 3 to 5 seconds, maybe even lets a tiny bit of water in, then stops dead and throws the code.
The lid lock makes zero sound at all when you press Start, like the whole assembly is completely dead.
Lid physically won't open after a failed cycle and you're standing there staring at a load of wet clothes you can't get to.

Can you reset a Whirlpool washer to clear the F5 E3 code?

Unplug the washer for a full 60 seconds. Don't just flip the breaker, actually pull the cord from the wall so the capacitors drain completely. Plug back in, then enter diagnostic mode using the knob sequence. Run the lid lock test from the diagnostic menu. If it clicks, locks, and the control confirms the signal, you're good to try a normal cycle. If the code comes right back immediately, the board's set a hard lockout and needs a successful lock confirmation before it'll clear.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverTorx T20 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriverMultimeter with ohm settingFlashlight or headlamp

Service / Diagnostic Mode

With the washer in standby, turn the knob: Left (90 degrees), Right, Right, Right, Left, Right. All lights should flash.

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range85–155 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Lid Lock AssemblyWPW10619033 · $20–$38	WPW10619033	$20 – $38
Lid SwitchWPW10082853 · $15–$25	WPW10082853	$15 – $25

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I manually unlock my Whirlpool washer when F5 E3 is displayed?

Usually yes. Unplug the power for about two minutes and the solenoid should drop back since there's no magnetic field holding the bolt anymore. If it's still stuck after that, don't grab a screwdriver and start prying. You'll crack the plastic top panel and that's a way more expensive fix than a lid lock. Try gently tapping the top of the washer right above where the lock sits while it's still unplugged. Sometimes that little tap is enough to jar the pin loose and get the lid open.

How long does it take to replace a Whirlpool lid lock assembly?

Honestly, 30 minutes tops for a first-timer. You pop the two screws at the back of the top panel, slide it forward, lift it up. The lock is right there at the front, held by two screws. Unplug the harness, swap the lock, plug it back in, put everything back together. It's about as easy as appliance repairs get. I tell homeowners this is a great first repair because nothing in there is intimidating and parts are cheap, usually $25 to $45 for the full lock assembly depending on where you order from.

My Whirlpool washer shows F5 E3 only on the first start of the day. Is that normal?

Not normal at all. That intermittent pattern usually means the solenoid coil is starting to fail, and cold temperatures first thing in the morning are just enough to push it over the edge. Or there's detergent gunk in the slider that loosens up once the machine warms up a bit. Either way, don't ignore it. Intermittent errors almost always turn into permanent errors, and when this one goes permanent it'll lock mid-cycle with a full load of soaking wet clothes trapped inside.

What's the part number for the Whirlpool lid lock assembly?

WPW10619033 is the one you want for most of these VMW platform top-loaders. Double-check it against your model number before ordering, but that part covers a huge range of Whirlpool, Maytag, and Amana top-loaders built on the same platform. I keep a couple of these on my truck because I see this failure so often. They run about $25 to $45 depending on where you order. AppliancePartsPros and Amazon both stock them and usually ship fast.

Could the main control board actually be causing F5 E3?

It's possible but honestly pretty rare. I'd say maybe 1 in 20 times I see this code does it actually trace back to the control board. The board's basically just reading the signal coming from the lock, so if the lock itself, the strike tab, and the wiring all check out fine and you're still getting the fault, then yeah, start looking at the board. But don't jump straight to a $150 control board before you've ruled out a $25 lid lock or a $9 strike plate. Work through the diagnostic steps in order first.

Related Whirlpool Washer Error Codes

Code: F5 E2Whirlpool Washer F5 E2 Error Code: Door Lock Fault Code: F22Whirlpool Washer F22 Error Code: Lid Switch Fault Code: RESETHow to Reset a Whirlpool Washer

Same Fix on Other Brands

Maytag washerF5 E3: Maytag Washer F5 E3 Error Code

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Whirlpool shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Maytag washerAll Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Lookup Guide Maytag washerHow to Reset a Maytag Washer (3 Methods That Work)Maytag washerMaytag Washer Troubleshooting: Fix 12 Common Problems Maytag washerMaytag Washer F21: Drain Pump Clog or Failure Maytag washerMaytag F03 E01: Pressure Switch or Water Level Fault Maytag washerMaytag F0 E3 Error: Pressure Switch Malfunction

Models Known to Experience F5 E3 Errors

This repair applies to most Whirlpool washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

WTW4816FW, WTW5000DW, WTW4850HW, WTW6120HW, WTW7000DW, WTW5500XW2, WTW4950XW3, WTW8500DC

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 14, 2026