Whirlpool Microwave F1E6 Error: Magnetron Relay Fault

Quick Answer

The Whirlpool F1E6 error indicates a magnetron relay fault where the relay is stuck open, preventing the unit from heating. The primary fix is replacing the main electronic control board.

The F1E6 won't damage anything if you ignore it, but your microwave's basically a fancy box at that point. What I usually see when I get called out is someone who's been reheating coffee on the stove for a week because they assumed it was the magnetron and figured the repair wasn't worth it. It's usually the board. And a board swap on an over-the-range unit is way cheaper than the install fight you'll have putting in a whole new one.

WhirlpoolMicrowaveSeverity: highDifficulty: advanced60% DIY Success

Time to Fix

5–120 min

Difficulty

advanced

Parts Cost

$100 – $200

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Nut driver set (1/4" and 5/16")

What Does the F1 E6 Code Mean?

I've probably replaced a dozen of these boards in the last two years. This code shows up most on Whirlpool units in the 6-8 year range, usually right after a power event or just from plain old wear. The relay on the control board takes a beating over its lifetime, and when it goes, the board can't tell the magnetron to fire. Part usually runs $80-150 and it's a direct swap if you know what you're doing. Countertop unit? Just recycle it. Built-in over-the-range? Fix it.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Magnetron relay contacts failed open40%

Control board relay driver circuit failed24%

Power surge burning relay coil14%

Relay solder joint cracked from thermal cycling12%

Magnetron drawing excessive current burning relay10%

Symptoms You May Notice

You punch in 2 minutes, hit start, turntable spins and the light comes on, but you pull out a completely cold cup of soup.
F1E6 flashes on the display right when you try to start a cycle, sometimes before you even get through entering the time.
The microwave acts completely normal in every single way, no strange noises, no smells, just zero heat no matter what power level you pick.
Error code clears after you unplug and replug, but comes back the moment you try to actually run a cook cycle.
Food takes three or four times longer than it should, then eventually it stops heating at all and the code locks in permanently.

Can you reset a Whirlpool microwave to clear the F1 E6 code?

Pull the plug and leave it unplugged for a full five minutes, not two, not three, five. This forces the control board capacitors to fully discharge and makes the processor restart completely clean. When you plug back in, wait 30 seconds before touching anything, then try running a cup of water. If F1E6 comes back on the first attempt, the relay is physically failed. No amount of resetting fixes a dead mechanical relay.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverNut driver set (1/4" and 5/16")Torx T20 screwdriver (some models)High voltage capacitor discharge tool or insulated discharge probeDigital multimeterNon-contact voltage testerSoldering iron and solder (relay-only repair only)Needle-nose pliers

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Whirlpool Microwave Control BoardModel-specific · $100–$200	Model-specific	$100 – $200

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between F1E4 and F1E6?

F1E4 is the scarier one. That's the relay stuck in the 'on' position, meaning the magnetron can't turn off when it's supposed to, which is a genuine fire risk. F1E6 is the relay stuck 'off', so your microwave just won't heat. Annoying, not dangerous. Your food stays cold, nothing's going to catch fire. Both codes usually end up needing the same fix, a new control board, but F1E6 is the less urgent situation. You can wait a few days to order the part. With F1E4 I'd stop using the unit immediately.

My microwave runs but doesn't heat. Is that F1E6?

Not necessarily. If you actually see F1E6 on the display, then yes, that's the relay circuit. But if you've got no heat and no error code showing up at all, that's a different problem. Could be the magnetron failed, the high voltage diode is shot, or the capacitor itself is bad. The board is smart enough to detect the relay fault and throw F1E6, but it can't always detect a dead magnetron downstream. So no heat with no code usually means a magnetron or HV component issue, which is honestly a more expensive fix than the board.

Is this repair worth it on an 8-year-old microwave?

Depends on what you've got. If it's an over-the-range unit that's built into your kitchen, a $150 board replacement is way cheaper than buying a new unit plus install cost, which can run another $150-200 just for the labor to mount and wire it. I've swapped boards on 10-year-old machines that ran for years after. But if it's a basic countertop unit you got for $90 somewhere, just buy a new one. The control board alone would cost more than the microwave's worth, and that's before you even factor in labor.

Can I still use it while I wait for the part?

The display works, the timer works, the light and turntable work, but you're not cooking anything. So technically you can 'use' it as a very expensive kitchen timer. What I'd caution against is running it and hoping it fixes itself, because it won't. The relay's either physically done or the driver circuit on the board is fried, and neither of those heals on their own. If you've got kids who might not notice the food isn't actually warm, that's a safety issue. Just unplug it until you get the part in.

How long does the board replacement actually take?

For a tech who's done it before, maybe 45 minutes to an hour including the capacitor discharge step. For a first-timer who's handy, budget two hours and watch a YouTube video for your specific model number before you start. Don't wing it. The outer case comes off with four or five screws usually, then you're into the board mounting. The tricky part is the wire harness connectors. Some of them are tight and you need to squeeze the release tab just right or you'll snap the clip and create a whole new problem for yourself.

Related Whirlpool Microwave Error Codes

Code: HUBWhirlpool Microwave Error Codes Code: F1E4Whirlpool F1E4: Power Relay Stuck

Same Fix Works on These Brands

Whirlpool shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.

Maytag washerAll Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete Lookup Guide Maytag washerHow to Reset a Maytag Washer (3 Methods That Work)Maytag washerMaytag Washer Troubleshooting: Fix 12 Common Problems Maytag washerMaytag Washer F21: Drain Pump Clog or Failure Maytag washerMaytag F03 E01: Pressure Switch or Water Level Fault Maytag washerMaytag F0 E3 Error: Pressure Switch Malfunction

Models Known to Experience F1 E6 Errors

This repair applies to most Whirlpool microwaves with this error code. Common model numbers include:

WMH31017HZ, WMH32519HZ, WMH53521HZ, WMH76719CZ, WMH31017FS, WMH32519FS, WMH53521HS, WMH75021HZ

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 15, 2026