Whirlpool Dryer F22 Error Code: Exhaust Temperature Too High
Quick Answer
F22 on a Whirlpool dryer means the exhaust temperature exceeded the safe limit and the high-limit thermostat tripped. Clean the exhaust vent first since blockage is the leading cause. If the vent is clean, the cycling thermostat may have failed open (no longer cycling the heater off).
When I show up for an F22 call, I'm checking the vent cap before I even walk in the door. Nine times out of ten it's blocked, crushed, or stuffed with lint. But if your vent's clean and you're still getting this code, your cycling thermostat probably welded its contacts shut and the heater just won't stop. Don't ignore this one. It's literally the last stop before a lint fire.
OK so F22 is basically your dryer telling you it got way too hot and shut itself down before something bad happened. Most of the time it's a venting issue, and I mean that in the literal, physical sense. Blocked ducts, crushed hoses, clogged outdoor caps. Costs maybe $15 to fix if that's it. If it's a thermostat, you're looking at a $20-30 part and about an hour of your time.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Clogged exhaust vent or duct restricting airflow40%
Lint buildup inside dryer cabinet around heating element24%
High-limit thermostat failed closed, not cutting off heat at threshold22%
Cycling thermostat failed open, allowing heater to run continuously14%
Symptoms You May Notice
F22 is on the display and the dryer won't restart no matter what you press until you unplug it.
There's a burnt-lint smell coming from the exhaust outlet even after the dryer shuts itself down.
Clothes come out almost too hot to hold, way hotter than they should be.
The drum keeps running but the machine cuts out after 10-15 minutes, every single time, like clockwork.
The back of the dryer or the vent hose feels noticeably hot compared to what's normal.
Can you reset a Whirlpool dryer to clear the F22 code?
Unplug the dryer for a full minute, not just 10 seconds. Come back, plug it in, power it on, and see if the code is gone before you start a cycle. If it clears, the control board reset successfully. Now run a test cycle on high heat for at least 30 minutes to confirm F22 doesn't come back. If it throws the code again within that first cycle, you haven't fixed the root cause yet.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Multimeter (continuity mode)Phillips #2 screwdriverQuarter-inch nut driverDryer vent cleaning brush kit (12 feet minimum)Vacuum with hose attachmentFlashlight or headlamp
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range0–1 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Cycling ThermostatWP3387134 · $8–$15
WP3387134
$8 – $15
High-Limit ThermostatWP3392519 · $8–$15
WP3392519
$8 – $15
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between F22 and F4 E4 on Whirlpool dryers?
F4 E4 is like a warning light telling you airflow is getting sluggish. The thermistor sees the temp rising too slowly or staying too high, but it hasn't hit the danger zone yet. F22 is the stop now command. It means the temperature actually hit the physical limit of the safety thermostat. If you ignore the airflow warnings from F4 E4, you'll almost certainly end up with an F22 shortly after. I see this sequence all the time. F4 E4 shows up, customer ignores it, two weeks later it's an F22.
Can I reset a tripped high-limit thermostat without replacing it?
Most modern Whirlpool dryers use a non-resettable thermal limit. Once it pops from excessive heat, the internal contact is physically broken and it'll never work again. You can test this by checking for continuity after the dryer is stone cold. If it's still open, it's trash. Occasionally you'll see an auto-reset version, but in 15 years I've found it's way safer to just replace it once it's been stressed by an F22 event. Don't gamble on a $10 part that's supposed to stop your house from burning down.
Why does the cycling thermostat fail on Whirlpool dryers?
The cycling thermostat is honestly the hardest working part of the whole heating system. It's a bimetal switch that clicks on and off constantly to keep the temperature in range. Over time those internal contacts arc and eventually weld themselves together. When they weld shut, the heater never turns off, and that's your runaway heat situation that triggers F22. Heavy use or poor airflow makes this part work way harder than it's designed to, so it fails earlier. Seven years is about the average lifespan I see in the field.
Should I replace both thermostats at the same time?
I never replace just one. These parts are sold in a kit for a reason. If your dryer got hot enough to trip the high-limit, the cycling thermostat was either the cause of the problem or got severely stressed by it. For the low cost of the parts, it's not worth the risk of tearing the dryer apart again two weeks later because the other half of the pair finally quit. Buy the kit. It's usually under $25 and saves you a second hour of work.
After fixing F22, how do I prevent it from coming back?
Maintenance is literally the only way. Clean your lint screen every single load, not every few loads, every single one. Get a professional vent cleaning done once a year, especially if your duct run is longer than 10 feet or has a couple of bends in it. And seriously, ditch those cheap foil accordion hoses behind the dryer. Replace them with rigid aluminum duct or at least a semi-rigid metal flex hose. That foil stuff crushes when you push the dryer back and it's the number one cause of the F22 calls I'm still running today.
How long does it take to fix an F22 error?
If it's just a clogged vent, you're looking at 30-45 minutes with a brush kit. If you need to replace the thermostats, figure an hour to an hour and a half total, including pulling the dryer out, removing the back panel, swapping the parts, and running a test cycle. Neither job requires special skills. If you're comfortable with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can handle this one yourself. I've seen complete beginners knock this out no problem.