The lint filter protects your drain pump by catching debris before it enters the motor. If your washer is struggling to drain or leaving clothes soaking wet, a clogged filter is the most likely culprit.
A clogged filter is honestly the number one reason I get called out for drainage problems. I've seen it burn out pumps that cost $150 or more when the filter cleaning is literally free. And the worst part? Most people don't even know this filter exists until their washer starts backing up. Clean it every 3-4 months and you'll probably never deal with a drain pump replacement.
Phillips #2 screwdriver (for toe kick panel), Flathead screwdriver (to pop access door)
What Does the DRAIN-FILTER Code Mean?
OK so here's the deal with Whirlpool washers: they don't have a traditional lint screen like your dryer does. What they have instead is a pump filter down at the bottom front that catches everything before it hits the pump. Coins, hairpins, mystery socks. You clean it, maybe replace it if the gasket goes bad. That's pretty much the whole job, and it costs nothing if you catch it early.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Debris and lint accumulation75%
Foreign objects (coins/hairpins)15%
Gasket or thread damage10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Washer stops mid-cycle and just sits there with a tub full of water, sometimes throwing codes like LD, F32, or E1 F9 on the display
Clothes come out dripping wet at the end of the cycle, like the spin barely ran at all
Small puddle showing up at the front lower corner of the machine after every single wash
A nasty swampy smell coming from the bottom of the machine, especially when you open the door
Drain cycle takes way longer than normal, like 10+ minutes to clear what should take two
Can you reset a Whirlpool washer to clear the DRAIN-FILTER code?
There's no specific reset sequence for a filter clog since it's not an electronic fault. After cleaning the filter, plug the washer back in and run a Rinse and Spin cycle. That flushes the pump and clears any drain error codes like LD or F9 automatically once the machine drains successfully. If the code comes back right away, the filter probably isn't the only problem.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver (for toe kick panel)Flathead screwdriver (to pop access door)Shallow pan or baking trayOld towels (at least 3-4)FlashlightPliers (if filter cap is stuck)Old toothbrush (for scrubbing filter mesh)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Drain Pump Filter Cap and ScreenWPW10465252 · $15–$35
WPW10465252
$15 – $35
Drain Pump AssemblyW10536347 · $45–$110
W10536347
$45 – $110
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the lint filter on a Whirlpool top-load washer?
Most modern Whirlpool top-loaders, anything made after 2005 or so, don't have a user-accessible lint filter at all. They're designed to flush lint out through the drain automatically. But if you've got an older machine with a big plastic center agitator, pull the cap off the top of the agitator and look down inside the tube. There's sometimes a small twist-off cup in there that catches lint. If you pull it out and it's packed solid, it's probably been in there a while. Give it a rinse under warm water with a toothbrush and drop it back in. Takes about two minutes.
Why is my Whirlpool washer filter cap stuck?
Usually something got wedged into the threads, a bra underwire, a hair tie, a coin that turned sideways in there. Calcium buildup from hard water can also basically cement the threads together after a few years without cleaning. Wrap a cloth around the cap for better grip and use pliers with slow, steady pressure. Don't crank it hard or you'll snap the handle right off the plastic cap. If it absolutely won't budge, try soaking the base with white vinegar for 10-15 minutes to break up the mineral deposits, then try again. Usually that does it.
Can I run my washer without the lint filter?
No. Don't try it. The filter cap seals the pump housing, so if you run it without the cap in place, water pours straight out of that hole the second the pump fires up. And without the filter screen, all the lint and debris goes straight into the pump impeller, which will trash the pump within a cycle or two. If you're waiting on a replacement part, just don't run the machine until it shows up. A $20 filter cap is a lot better than a $150 pump replacement.
How do I know if I need a new filter or a new pump?
Here's the quick way to tell: clean the filter, then check if the impeller spins freely when you reach in and flick it with your finger. If the filter's clean, the impeller spins fine, but the machine still won't drain, the pump motor is probably burned out. You'll usually hear it humming during the drain cycle with no actual water moving. New pump runs $50-90 for most Whirlpool models. But if water is leaking at the cap area even after tightening, just replace the O-ring or the whole filter cap assembly for $15-25, and that fixes it most of the time.
How much does a replacement drain pump filter cost for a Whirlpool washer?
The filter cap assembly runs about $15-25 for most Whirlpool front-loaders. The part number you're looking for is WPW10174745 or W10174745 depending on your model year. Just punch your full model number into any appliance parts site and it'll pull the exact one. If you just need the O-ring and can find it separately, that's usually a couple bucks. Either way it's cheap. Definitely worth replacing rather than trying to patch a cracked cap with sealant, which never lasts more than a wash or two anyway.
Models Known to Experience DRAIN-FILTER Errors
This repair applies to most Whirlpool washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: