Whirlpool Refrigerator E5 Error: Temperature Sensor Fault
Quick Answer
Whirlpool refrigerator error E5 indicates a temperature sensor is out of range or has failed. The sensor is a thermistor whose resistance changes with temperature. When it fails, resistance goes open (infinite) or short (near zero).
When I see an E5 on a Whirlpool, it usually means the fridge is flying blind because it lost its eyes, the thermistors. Without an accurate reading from the freezer or fresh food section, the control board might keep the compressor running indefinitely or not at all. You'll probably notice milk spoiling or ice cream turning into soup before the code even stays on the display permanently.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Nut driver or hex driver set (for panel screws)
What Does the E5 Code Mean?
Dealing with an E5 code is actually one of the more straightforward repairs I walk homeowners through. These sensors are essentially small resistors that tell the brain how cold it is. Over time, moisture gets into the casing and shorts them out. The good news is that the part is cheap, and you can usually swap it out with just a screwdriver.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Temperature sensor thermistor failed (open or shorted)40%
Wiring harness to sensor damaged or disconnected24%
Physical damage to sensor from ice or impact22%
Control board sensor input circuit failed14%
Symptoms You May Notice
E5 flashing or solid on the display panel, sometimes cycling on and off before it finally stays put permanently
Your ice cream is soft or straight up liquid even though you haven't opened the freezer in hours
The compressor just won't stop running, like it's working overtime trying to hit a temperature it can't actually measure
There's a solid sheet of ice covering the entire back wall of the freezer compartment
Milk's going bad way faster than normal and the fresh food section feels more like a cool room than a proper refrigerator
Can you reset a Whirlpool refrigerator to clear the E5 code?
To clear the E5 fault after your repair, pull the plug for a full minute. This forced reboot clears the control board memory. When you power it back up, the board performs a fresh resistance check on the sensors. If the new part is installed correctly, the display should return to showing your temperature settings immediately.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverNut driver or hex driver set (for panel screws)Digital multimeterPutty knife or panel popper tool (for plastic clips)Towels or a shallow pan (for water if there's ice buildup)Electrical contact cleanerDielectric grease
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range5000–10000 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Whirlpool refrigerator temperature sensor / thermistorWPW10316760 · $10–$25
WPW10316760
$10 – $25
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Whirlpool E5 always mean the sensor needs replacement?
About 80% of the time, yeah, the sensor's just dead. But always check the connector first. These sensors live in a high-moisture environment and the tiny metal pins inside that plastic connector can corrode until they lose contact entirely. Sometimes you can unplug the sensor, scrape off a little oxidation, plug it back in and the E5 disappears. For a $20 part though, I'd just replace it anyway. Not worth gambling on a corroded connector holding up for another year when you can fix it right for cheap.
How much does it cost to fix Whirlpool E5?
DIY, you're probably looking at $15-25 for the thermistor. It's a cheap part. If you call a tech out, expect to pay a service call fee plus labor, which usually puts you between $150-250 total. It's genuinely one of the best candidates for a DIY repair because the part's inexpensive, the steps aren't complicated, and you're not dealing with refrigerant or high voltage. The labor is honestly the biggest chunk of the bill on this one, so it makes total sense to do it yourself.
Is the E5 sensor the same for the freezer and refrigerator compartments?
On most modern Whirlpool French door and side-by-side units, yeah, it's the same part. Standard 10k ohm thermistor. I've literally swapped them between compartments for testing purposes on a job. Always verify with your model number on a parts site just to be safe, but nine times out of ten you can order one part and use it for either side. WP2321799 is the common one that covers a ton of Whirlpool models, worth checking against your serial plate.
My Whirlpool refrigerator keeps showing E5 after sensor replacement. What's next?
OK so if a brand new sensor doesn't clear it, you've got one of two problems. Either there's a break in the wiring somewhere between the sensor connector and the main control board, or the board itself has a bad input circuit. Grab your multimeter and check for continuity along the full length of those wires from the sensor plug all the way to the board connector. If the wires are solid, the control board is probably your culprit. Board replacement on these runs $150-300 for the part alone, so at that point it's worth getting a tech to confirm the diagnosis before you pull the trigger.
How long does E5 take to appear after the sensor starts failing?
The code usually fires the instant the board detects an impossible reading like an open circuit. But I've seen sensors fail slowly. The fridge acts weird for a few days, maybe over-freezing things or not defrosting right, before the board finally decides the data is bad enough to throw the code. So if your fridge has been acting strange for a week before the E5 showed up, the sensor was probably dying that whole time and you just didn't have the code yet.
Can I still use my fridge while waiting for the E5 part to arrive?
Short answer: probably, but watch it closely. The fridge might run way colder than normal or not cold enough depending on which way the sensor failed. Grab a cheap fridge thermometer, toss it inside, and check it every few hours. Fridge should be 35-38°F, freezer around 0°F. If things are way off from those numbers, move your food to a cooler or temporarily adjust the controls to compensate. Don't let it run more than a day or two without monitoring because a runaway compressor can cause other problems down the line.