Whirlpool Dryer E1 Error Code: Thermistor Open or Short
Quick Answer
E1 on a Whirlpool dryer means a thermistor has failed open or shorted. The correct resistance at room temperature is approximately 10,000 ohms (10K ohms). An open reading (infinite ohms) means the sensor wire has broken; a near-zero reading means the sensor has internally shorted.
If you ignore E1 and keep running the dryer, you're flying blind on temperature control. I've shown up to jobs where a shorted thermistor had the heater running full blast for hours, and the drum area smelled like burned lint and plastic. The good news is this is honestly one of the easier dryer repairs out there. Part's cheap, you can find it same-day at most appliance parts stores, and you'll be back up and running in under an hour.
OK so your dryer's temperature sensor has either broken its circuit completely (that's an open) or collapsed internally to near-zero resistance (that's a short). Either way, the control board has no idea what temperature the drum is, so it throws E1 and stops playing ball. I see this code probably twice a week. The thermistor itself is $12-15, and if you're comfortable pulling the back panel off, you can knock this out in 45 minutes.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Thermistor element failure (open circuit from broken sensing wire)40%
Thermistor internal short (element collapsed)24%
Control board thermistor input circuit fault22%
Wiring harness connector loose or pulled off thermistor terminals14%
Symptoms You May Notice
E1 flashes on the display and the cycle stops dead or won't even start
Clothes come out completely damp after a full cycle because there's zero heat, just cold air tumbling
Drum runs way too hot and clothes come out scorching or smell burned, which usually means a shorted thermistor that's not sending any cutoff signal to the board
Code appears immediately at startup before the drum even gets up to speed
Dryer starts normally but cuts out mid-cycle and won't respond until you cycle the power
Can you reset a Whirlpool dryer to clear the E1 code?
After replacing the thermistor, unplug the dryer for at least 60 seconds to let the control board fully reset. Plug back in, select a normal timed dry cycle, and press start. E1 should be gone. If it comes back immediately, the thermistor connector isn't fully seated, or there's still a wiring issue you need to chase down before closing everything up.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverMultimeter with ohms/resistance modeFlashlight or headlampNeedle-nose pliers
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range9500–10500 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Thermistor (Inlet or Outlet)WP8577274 · $10–$20
WP8577274
$10 – $20
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the correct resistance for a Whirlpool dryer thermistor?
At room temperature, around 77 degrees F (25 degrees C), you're looking for right around 10,000 ohms (10K ohms). Resistance goes up as it gets colder, so at 32 degrees F you'd expect closer to 30,000 ohms. As the dryer heats up during a cycle, resistance drops. If you're getting infinite ohms (open circuit) or anywhere near zero, the thermistor's done. I've tested hundreds of these and a good one at room temp is pretty consistently in that 9,500 to 10,500 range. Anything outside that window and you replace it.
Is E1 the same as F9 E2 on Whirlpool dryers?
Not exactly, but they're related. F9 E2 specifically points to the outlet or exhaust thermistor. E1 is a broader thermistor fault that can point to the inlet thermistor near the heater, or in some models it's just a general thermistor circuit fault without specifying which one. If your dryer is showing E1, just test both thermistors. Takes five extra minutes and you'll know exactly which one failed instead of guessing and potentially ordering the wrong part.
Can I keep using the dryer with an E1 code?
Don't do it. An open thermistor means the control board is flying blind on temperature with no way to safely limit the heater. A shorted one might tell the board the drum is always cold, so it runs the heater full blast indefinitely with no cutoff. I've seen clothes get scorched and I've seen lint fires almost start from exactly this situation. It's a $15 part and a 45-minute fix. Just take care of it.
Should I replace both thermistors at the same time?
If your dryer is more than 7-8 years old and one thermistor just died, yeah, replace both. The other one has been through the exact same heat cycles and conditions, and it's probably not far behind. You're already in there with the back panel off and the wiring disconnected. Total cost for both thermistors is usually $20-35 in parts. Way better than pulling the whole back panel off again in three months because the second one finally gave up.
My dryer shows E1 but also has weak heat. Could it be something else?
Yeah, possibly. A shorted thermistor can cause weird heating behavior because the board thinks the drum is always cold and runs the heater in an abnormal pattern. But weak heat combined with E1 can also point to a separate issue like a partially burned-out heating element or a tripped thermal fuse. My approach is always fix E1 first, then run the dryer and check heat output before reassembling. If heat is still weak after the thermistor fix, then dig into the element and thermal fuse before calling it done.
How long does it take to replace a Whirlpool dryer thermistor?
First time doing it, budget 45 minutes to an hour. That includes removing the back panel, testing both thermistors, swapping the bad one, reassembling, and running a test cycle. If you've done it before, it's more like 20-25 minutes. The actual part swap takes maybe five minutes. Most of the time goes into testing and tracing the wiring harness to make sure nothing else is going on. Don't rush putting it back together, because pinched wires during reassembly will bring you right back to the same E1 code.