A Whirlpool washer drain pump removes water from the tub during the cycle. If your washer is not draining or making grinding noises, the primary fix is to inspect the pump for clogs or replace the motor assembly.
When the drain pump starts dying, it usually gives you a warning first. That grinding or humming sound during the drain phase? That's your window. Ignore it and you're bailing water out of a full tub at 11pm, probably onto your laundry room floor. I've seen this situation take out subfloor. Catch it early and it's a $40 part and about an hour of your Saturday.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, 5/16 inch nut driver or 10mm socket
What Does the DRAIN-PUMP Code Mean?
Most Whirlpool drain pumps are designed to last between 5 and 10 years, though a single stray coin or bobby pin can kill one instantly. I always tell my customers to replace the pump if they hear a low growling sound during the drain phase. Getting ahead of the failure prevents you from having to manually bail out gallons of water when the motor finally gives up.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Mechanical blockage from foreign objects45%
Electrical motor failure (open or shorted windings)30%
Worn bearings or cracked housing causing leaks15%
Impeller separation from the motor shaft10%
Symptoms You May Notice
Washer stops mid-cycle with 3 to 5 inches of soapy water still sitting in the tub and just blinks at you without finishing.
A loud grinding or humming sound kicks in right when the machine should be draining, usually around the 8 to 12 minute mark of the cycle.
LD or F5 E2 error code on the display, which basically means the control board timed out waiting for the water to leave and gave up.
There's a small puddle showing up under the front of the machine after every cycle, coming from a cracked pump housing or a failed seal around the shaft.
Clothes come out absolutely sopping wet at the end of a full cycle because the water never actually drained out of the drum.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriver5/16 inch nut driver or 10mm socketChannel-lock pliersDigital multimeterShallow drip pan or old baking sheetFlashlight or headlampOld towelsWet/dry shop vac (optional but really helpful)
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range5–25 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Drain Pump AssemblyWPW10730485 · $45–$85
WPW10730485
$45 – $85
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just clean the pump instead of replacing it?
If it's jammed with a coin or a sock, yeah, cleaning it out will often fix the problem and save you the part cost. But here's the thing about a pump that was humming while jammed for a while: the heat builds up fast inside those motor windings. If it was making noise for more than a day or two before you caught it, there's a decent chance the motor is already damaged even if it runs again after cleaning. And if you see any water staining or moisture around the pump housing, the seal is gone and it needs to be replaced regardless.
Should I buy an OEM Whirlpool pump or a cheaper aftermarket one?
Honestly, for drain pumps I pretty much always tell people to go OEM. Aftermarket pumps look identical in photos but the plastic housings are usually thinner and they can be noticeably louder. More importantly, a pump failure means water on your floor, potentially a lot of it. The OEM part runs maybe $45 to $65 depending on your model. Aftermarket is usually $20 to $30. That $25 difference isn't worth the risk to your floor or subfloor. Whirlpool part number W10536347 fits a ton of the common models if you want a starting point.
Why is my washer still not draining after I replaced the pump?
This happens more than you'd think. First thing to check is the house standpipe itself, sometimes it gets a partial clog that causes slow draining and people assume it's the pump. Also look at the tub-to-pump hose. Small items like baby socks can get sucked into that hose and sit there acting like a flap valve, blocking flow even with a brand new pump doing its job. Finally, make sure your drain hose isn't pushed too far down into the standpipe. There needs to be an air gap, otherwise you get a siphoning effect that can cause draining issues.
How do I get the water out before I start the repair?
Best way is a wet/dry shop vac on the end of the drain hose. Pull the hose out of the standpipe, stick the shop vac hose on it, and let it rip. If you don't have a shop vac, you can lower the drain hose into a floor-level bucket and let gravity start it, but be ready because once it starts flowing it comes out fast. The last resort is bailing manually with a cup or small bucket, which is miserable but it works. Either way, expect somewhere between 5 and 15 gallons depending on where in the cycle your machine stopped.
How long does a Whirlpool drain pump replacement actually take?
Once you've done one, you're looking at about 45 minutes total. First time with the panel off? Probably 90 minutes to 2 hours if you're being careful and taking your time. The actual pump swap is maybe 20 minutes. The rest is dealing with the water, getting panels off without snapping the plastic clips, and the test run at the end where you watch for leaks. Don't skip the test run or rush it. That's the step people blow past and then they're pulling the machine out again a week later because of a drip they missed.
Same Fix Works on These Brands
Whirlpool shares the same hardware platform with these brands. The diagnosis and repair steps are identical.