The dL error code means your washer cannot lock the lid. This is usually caused by a physical obstruction, a broken lid strike, or a faulty door lock solenoid assembly that needs replacement.
When I show up for a dL code, nine times out of ten it's one of three things: the plastic lid strike is cracked, something's jammed in the latch hole, or the solenoid coil burned out. Ignore this and the washer just sits there dead. Won't start anything. The good news is parts for this are cheap and it's one of the more doable DIY repairs on a Cabrio or Bravos.
Phillips #2 screwdriver, Putty knife or flat-blade tool for popping cabinet spring clips
What Does the dL Code Mean?
So here's the deal with dL. Your washer tried to lock the lid six times in a row and couldn't confirm it actually locked. Now it's stuck and won't run anything. This code shows up a ton on the Cabrio and Bravos lineup, basically any Whirlpool top-loader from 2010 onward with that plastic latch system. Most of the time you're looking at a 10 to 45 dollar fix, not a new machine.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Faulty Lid Lock Assembly65%
Broken or Misaligned Lid Strike20%
Wiring or Connector Corrosion10%
Main Control Board Failure5%
Symptoms You May Notice
You press Start and hear 5 or 6 rapid clicks in a row before the dL code flashes on the display
The lid lock light blinks continuously even when the lid looks completely closed
Washer won't begin any cycle at all, just sits there doing nothing
Machine starts filling then stops dead, throws dL, and drains out before anything gets washed
You can feel the lid wobble slightly at the latch area where it used to feel solid and secure
Can you reset a Whirlpool washer to clear the dL code?
After fixing the underlying cause, press Power or Cancel twice to clear the dL code from the display. Then unplug the washer from the wall and leave it unplugged for a full minute so the control board can fully reboot. Plug it back in, select a short cycle, and press Start. Watch for the lid lock light to go solid before the machine begins to fill.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverPutty knife or flat-blade tool for popping cabinet spring clipsMultimeter set to resistance/ohms modeNeedle nose pliersFlashlight or phone lightSmall flathead screwdriver or dental pick for terminal inspectionElectrical contact cleaner spray
Service / Diagnostic Mode
Turn cycle selector to 12 o'clock position so all LEDs are off. Rotate: CCW 1 click, CW 3 clicks, CCW 1 click, CW 1 click. All indicator lights should illuminate. Press Start to run the automatic test sequence.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range4–10 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid lock to get rid of the dL code?
Honestly, no. Don't even try it. The control board is looking for a specific resistance value AND a timed confirmation signal from the internal switch. Jumping the wires doesn't just fail to work, it can actually fry the main control board, which is a 150 to 300 dollar repair versus a 12 dollar lid strike. I've seen people do this and turn a small problem into a massive one. Just fix the actual cause and you'll be done in under an hour.
Why does my washer click several times before the dL code appears?
That clicking is the solenoid trying to fire the lock bolt over and over. The control board is programmed to make six attempts before it gives up and throws the fault code. Each click you hear is one attempt. So if you count about 5 or 6 clicks and then see dL pop up on the display, that's completely normal behavior for this fault. It's not making things worse by trying, it's just doing exactly what it's programmed to do.
Is the dL code the same as the lid lock light flashing?
They're related but not the exact same thing. A flashing lid lock light is the washer saying hey, I'm not sure the lid is secured. The dL code is the specific fault stored in the computer after the board gives up trying to lock it. Usually if the light is flashing and the machine won't start, you'll find dL in the diagnostic menu too. Think of the flashing light as the warning and dL as the actual fault record.
Does a dL code mean I need a new control board?
Almost never. In 15 years of doing this, a bad control board causes dL maybe 3 to 5 percent of the time. The board is almost always fine. It's a mechanical failure at the latch or a dead solenoid coil. Before you spend 200 bucks on a control board, replace the 10 dollar lid strike and test the solenoid with a multimeter. I can count on one hand the number of times a dL code on a Cabrio actually turned out to be the board.
How long does it take to replace the door lock assembly?
If you've got basic DIY skills, about 30 to 45 minutes start to finish. The top panel pops off with a putty knife and two screws in most cases. The lock assembly itself is held in with two or three screws and one wire harness plug. The hardest part is honestly getting the top panel clips to re-engage. Order the part, watch one YouTube video for your specific model, and you can have it done before lunch.
What's the part number for the Whirlpool Cabrio door lock assembly?
The most common replacement for Cabrio and Bravos models is WPW10404050 or W10404050. For older models you might need 8182634 or W10238287. Easiest thing is to pull your model number off the sticker inside the lid and search that exact number plus 'lid lock assembly' on any appliance parts site. You'll find the exact match in about 30 seconds and it's usually in stock for same or next day shipping.
Models Known to Experience dL Errors
This repair applies to most Whirlpool washers with this error code. Common model numbers include: