A Whirlpool washer that constantly sounds like it's draining is usually suffering from a clogged pump filter or a siphoning issue with the drain hose. First, ensure your drain hose isn't shoved too far down the pipe, then clear the debris filter located at the bottom of the machine.
In my fifteen years on the road, a constant draining sound is often the washer's panic mode triggered by a flood sensor or a stuck pressure switch. If the pump runs continuously, it puts massive strain on the motor and can lead to a premature burnout. Catching this early usually means a simple cleaning instead of an expensive control board replacement, which I see far too often when people ignore the noise.
Don't let the noise drive you crazy. Diagnosing this doesn't have to be expensive. Most of the time, I find it's a mechanical blockage or a simple siphon issue that costs nothing but time to fix. If the pump itself has failed or the board is sending constant power, you're looking at a moderate repair bill, but it's still cheaper than a new machine.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Object or debris stuck in the drain pump filter45%
Faulty or clogged water level pressure switch hose25%
Drain hose inserted too far into the standpipe causing siphoning15%
Stuck relay on the main control board providing constant power10%
Damaged drain pump impeller blades5%
Symptoms You May Notice
The pump keeps running 5 to 10 minutes after the cycle finishes and the lid's been open the whole time, like the machine just forgot to turn itself off.
There's a gurgling or sucking sound during the wash portion of the cycle, like someone pulling a bathtub drain, even though the drum is supposed to be soaking clothes right now.
The tub fills up partway and you can hear it actively draining at the same time, so the water level never gets high enough to actually wash anything properly.
Loud grinding or rattling from the bottom front of the unit, kind of like a quarter got tossed into a garbage disposal and just keeps spinning around in there.
Can you reset a Whirlpool washer to clear the DRAINING-SOUND code?
Unplug the machine from the wall for a full 60 seconds, not just 10. While it's unplugged, press and hold the Start button for about 5 seconds to drain residual power from the capacitors. Plug it back in and run a Rinse and Spin cycle. If the pump only kicks in at the drain stage and stays quiet during fill, you're good. If it fires right back up again, you've got a hardware problem that a reset won't touch.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlat-head screwdriverMultimeterNeedle-nose pliersNut driver (1/4 inch and 5/16 inch)Shallow bucket or baking panOld towels (bring several)FlashlightZip ties
Service / Diagnostic Mode
With the washer in standby (plugged in, all lights off), turn the cycle selector knob: Left (one click), Right (three clicks), Left (one click), Right (one click). All lights should flash. Turn the knob until only the 'Done' or 'Spin' light is on and press Start to view saved fault codes.
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range15–45 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Replacement Parts
If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.
Part Name
OEM Number
Estimated Price
Drain Pump AssemblyWPW10730972 · $45–$110
WPW10730972
$45 – $110
Water Level Pressure SwitchWPW10448876 · $30–$75
WPW10448876
$30 – $75
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my Whirlpool washer pump run even when it's off?
That's almost always either flood mode or a stuck relay on the control board. The washer's pressure sensor monitors water level constantly, and if it's feeding bad data to the board, the board keeps the pump going as a safety precaution. Unplugging for 10 minutes can break the cycle temporarily. But if it keeps coming back, you're looking at a bad pressure switch, usually $25-40 for the part, or a stuck relay on the control board, which means a full board replacement at $150-300 depending on your model. Check the pressure switch hose first before assuming it's the board.
Can a clogged filter make a draining sound?
Yes, and honestly it's the most satisfying fix when that's all it is. When the pump filter is packed with lint and debris, the pump impeller spins but can't move water efficiently. It cavitates, meaning it's basically spinning in air pockets, and that creates a loud churning or gurgling noise that sounds exactly like constant draining. I've had people absolutely convinced their pump was shot, cleaned the filter in five minutes, and the noise was completely gone. Check this first every single time before you spend a dime on parts.
How far should the drain hose go into the pipe?
4 to 6 inches, that's it. I know it seems like it might fall out, but that's what the plastic hose guide that came with your machine is for. Zip-tie it to the standpipe at the right depth so it stays put. The standpipe itself also needs to be at least 30 inches tall from the floor, or you'll get siphoning no matter what else you do. If your hose goes deeper than 6 inches, the machine is fighting a siphon the entire wash cycle, draining out water as fast as it fills. It'll sound like it's always draining because basically it is.
What does a failing drain pump sound like?
Depends on what's failing. A high-pitched whine that gets worse over time usually means the motor bearings are shot. Loud rhythmic clicking or thumping, especially coming in regular beats, usually means something hard like a coin is jammed in the impeller and it's hitting on every single rotation. Grinding that gets progressively louder is often the impeller cracked and pieces are rattling around inside the pump housing. And if the motor sounds like it's running fine but zero water is actually moving, the impeller probably snapped completely off the shaft. At that point you're replacing the whole pump assembly, not repairing it.
How much does it cost to replace the drain pump on a Whirlpool washer?
The pump part itself runs $45-90 for OEM or $25-50 for a quality aftermarket. The job takes about an hour if you've done it before. If you're calling a tech, figure $100-150 in labor on top of the part, so total out-of-pocket usually lands between $150-250. It's honestly one of the more DIY-friendly repairs on these machines. You'll need to tilt the unit back or lay it on its side to get good access to the pump, and have a bunch of old towels ready because there's always water left in the pump housing. Common replacement part number for Whirlpool front-loaders is W10130913.