Holiday Gas Stove Not Heating: Repair Guide

Quick Answer

If your Holiday gas stove isn't heating, the most likely culprit is a weakened bake igniter that glows but isn't hot enough to open the gas valve. Check if the igniter is glowing orange, if it stays dim or doesn't glow at all, it's time for a replacement.

Most of the time when I get called out for one of these Holiday oven jobs, it's the igniter, full stop. Ignore a weak igniter long enough and you'll either end up with a completely dead oven or, worse, a delayed ignition where gas builds up a little before catching. The igniter and safety valve work as a team, and once that igniter gets too weak to pull enough amps, the whole thing just sits there doing nothing.

HolidayOvenSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

45–90 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

$25 – $140

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver

Holiday Gas Stove Not Heating: Repair Guide

OK here's the deal: most Holiday oven not-heating calls are a $30-50 igniter fix you can handle yourself in about an hour. I probably replaced four of these just last month alone. These ranges are mechanically simple, which is actually good news because simple means fewer things that can go wrong, and usually means one cheap part stands between you and a working oven again.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Weakened or burnt-out bake igniter65%

Faulty oven safety gas valve15%

Defective temperature sensor10%

Wiring or connection failures10%

Symptoms You May Notice

The igniter glows a dull reddish-orange for 2 or 3 minutes straight but the burner never actually catches, then the glow just slowly fades out.
Oven takes 25 minutes to preheat to 350, or it beeps that it's ready but it's nowhere near temperature when you put your hand in.
Constant clicking sound with no ignition, like the oven is trying over and over but can't catch.
Burner lights fine but the flame dies out after about a minute, followed by a faint gas smell in the kitchen.
Completely dead when you turn the knob, no glow and no clicking, nothing at all.

Can you reset a Holiday oven to clear the NOT-HEATING code?

Holiday gas ovens don't really have a software reset the way a modern fridge or dishwasher might. What you can do is unplug the stove completely for 60 to 90 seconds, which clears any stuck fault codes in the control board if yours has one. Plug it back in and wait about 2 minutes before testing. If it still won't heat after that, you're looking at a physical part that needs replacing, not a software glitch.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriver1/4 inch nut driverMultimeter with ohms settingWork glovesNeedle-nose pliersToothpick or thin sewing pin (for clearing burner ports)

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

Did the fix not work?

If the problem comes back after following these steps, a component has permanently failed and needs replacement. Check the specific error code your oven is showing:

GAS-SMELL Error →

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range40–1100 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Replacement Parts

If your diagnostic testing proves the component has failed, you will need a replacement. We recommend OEM parts over aftermarket for water-handling components.

Part Name	OEM Number	Estimated Price
Flat Style Bake Igniter5303918527 · $25–$55	5303918527	$25 – $55
Oven Safety ValveWP74003341 · $80–$140	WP74003341	$80 – $140

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my Holiday oven glow but not light?

Classic weak igniter situation. As these age, the resistance climbs, so they can't pull enough amperage to heat the safety valve's bimetal strip enough to pop it open. Still glows, looks totally fine, but it's basically all show and no action. The valve needs to see about 3.2 amps minimum before it'll release gas. A worn igniter might only push 2 amps. New igniter fixes this almost every single time, and you're looking at $30 to $50 for the part from any appliance parts supplier.

How do I find the model number on a Holiday stove?

Pull the broiler drawer all the way out and check along the inner frame edge first, that's where it is on most of these. If it's not there, lift the cooktop by popping the two screws under the front lip and look at the frame underneath. Last place to check is the door jamb on the main oven door. You need that exact model number to get the right igniter because Holiday made several versions with slightly different amperage specs over the years, and getting the wrong one causes more problems than it solves.

Can I use a universal igniter on my Holiday oven?

You can, but you've got to check the amperage rating before you order anything. Most Holiday safety valves need a 3.2 to 3.6 amp igniter to open. A lot of cheap universals are rated at exactly 3.2 which is right at the edge, and if there's any voltage drop in your wiring you'll end up with delayed ignition. That means gas builds up for a few seconds and then lights all at once with a little boom. Totally avoidable. Spend the extra few bucks on the OEM part or a quality aftermarket that matches the spec.

Is it safe to light my gas oven with a match?

Don't try it if your oven uses a glow-bar igniter, which is basically any Holiday model from the past 30 years. The whole system is specifically designed so gas only releases after the igniter proves it's hot enough to safely light it. Try to manually light it and you're bypassing that safety entirely, gas can build up in the cavity before ignition happens. Some very old Holiday models have a standing pilot you can relight manually, but if yours has that glowing igniter visible through the bottom vents, that's not one of them.

How long does a Holiday oven igniter last?

Honestly it varies a ton. I've seen them go after 4 years in a kitchen that bakes every day, and I've pulled them out of 18-year-old ovens that still tested perfectly fine. The main killer is heat cycling, every time it heats up and cools down the element gets a little more brittle. High temp baking at 450 or 500 degrees is definitely harder on them than normal everyday use. Budget $30 to $50 for the part, and either replace it when symptoms show up or swap it proactively around the 8 to 10 year mark if you want to stay ahead of it.

Related Holiday Oven Error Codes

Code: GAS-SMELLGas Stove Smells Like Gas: Safety Check Guide

Models Known to Experience NOT-HEATING Errors

This repair applies to most Holiday ovens with this error code. Common model numbers include:

HLY1102B, HLY1402W, HLY2102S, HLY2402B, HLY3002W, HLY3402B, HLY4002S, HLY4502W

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on May 20, 2024