Fisher & Paykel Washer EDL2 Error: Lid Lock

Quick Answer

The EDL2 code means your washer cannot lock the lid to begin a cycle. This is usually caused by a faulty lid lock assembly, a broken lid striker, or moisture-related corrosion on the wiring harness connectors.

EDL2 basically means your washer tried to lock the lid, couldn't confirm it worked, and shut everything down. Ignore it and it's not going anywhere - the machine won't run a single cycle until it's fixed. I've seen people go weeks without a washer thinking it was a control board when it was actually a $12 striker or five minutes with contact cleaner. Humidity is the silent killer with these Fisher & Paykel lid lock circuits.

FisherpaykelWasherSeverity: highDifficulty: intermediate92% DIY Success

Time to Fix

20–50 min

Difficulty

intermediate

Parts Cost

—

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 screwdriver, Flathead screwdriver

What Does the EDL2 Code Mean?

OK so nine times out of ten, EDL2 is a lid striker or a corroded connector, not a blown board. Fisher & Paykel washers are pretty well-built, but they don't love humidity. That lid lock circuit has a feedback loop, and the board sends power, listens for a confirmation signal back, and if that signal doesn't come through clean, you get EDL2. You'll usually hear a click or two right before it throws the code, which honestly makes diagnosis easier because it tells you the board's doing its job.

Most Likely Causes

Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:

Defective Lid Lock Assembly65%

Wiring or Connector Corrosion20%

Broken Lid Striker10%

Motor Controller Failure5%

Symptoms You May Notice

The display throws EDL2 within the first 30 seconds of a cycle, usually right at the moment you'd normally expect to hear the lid click shut.
Two or three rapid clicks from the lid area and then nothing, the machine just sits there like it's waiting for something.
Washer starts filling with water normally but stops completely before agitation begins, leaving you with a full tub and no movement.
Lid feels like it's closing just fine to you but the machine clearly disagrees, won't move past the lock sequence no matter what you do.
Error resets when you unplug it but comes right back the second you try to run a new cycle.

Can you reset a Fisherpaykel washer to clear the EDL2 code?

Unplug the machine from the wall completely, not just from the power button. Wait a full 60 seconds. While you're waiting, press the lid down firmly and make sure the striker is fully seated. Plug back in and immediately select a Spin Only cycle. Listen for a single solid click from the lid area. If the cycle starts normally after that click, you're good. If you hear rapid clicking again or EDL2 comes right back, the underlying issue isn't fixed yet.

Tools Required for Diagnosis

Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverDigital multimeterElectronic contact cleanerNeedle-nose pliersFlashlight or headlampCotton swabs or damp cloth

Diagnostic Checklist

Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.

ComponentComponent Under Test

Expected Range60–120 ohms

ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I bypass the lid lock on a Fisher & Paykel washer?

Don't even try it. These machines use a feedback loop where the board is actively listening for a resistance change when the bolt extends. If you fool the board with a jumper or a resistor, you're running the machine with no lid safety, which is a real problem if kids are around. You can also blow a fuse on the control board, turning a $50 repair into a $180 one. I've seen it happen more than once. Just fix the actual problem, it's usually cheaper than you think.

Why does my washer click three times before showing EDL2?

That's by design. The board sends a lock signal, waits for the feedback switch to confirm the bolt extended, and if it doesn't get that confirmation it tries again. Three total attempts. After the third failed try it throws EDL2 and stops. The clicking is the solenoid firing each time. So if you hear click-click-click and then EDL2, that's actually useful diagnostic information. It means the board is working and sending power to the lock. Your problem is either mechanical or it's in the wiring between the board and the lock, not the board itself.

Is the EDL2 error the same as the DL error?

Related but not the same thing. A plain DL usually just means the lid was open when you hit start. Close it and the code goes away. EDL2 is the machine saying it actually tried to lock the lid and couldn't confirm it worked. That's a hardware problem, not user error. If EDL2 cleared every single time by just closing the lid harder, it'd be a different situation, but EDL2 sticks around because the lock sequence actually ran and failed the feedback check.

How do I clear the EDL2 code after a repair?

Unplug for 60 seconds, plug back in, run a Spin Only cycle. That's literally it. The board runs a fresh lock cycle and if everything passes the code clears itself automatically. You don't need any special reset sequence or button combo for this one. If the code comes back after you've made a repair, the repair didn't actually fix the root cause. Don't just keep clearing it and hoping, that's not going to work.

How much does it typically cost to fix an EDL2 error?

Depends on what's actually wrong. Corroded connectors are basically free if you already have contact cleaner, maybe $10 if you don't. A new lid striker runs 15 to 30 dollars and takes about 10 minutes to swap. The lid lock assembly itself is 45 to 75 dollars depending on your exact model, and that's a 20 to 30 minute job. Motor controller board is the expensive one at 150 to 200 dollars for the part. I've fixed probably a dozen EDL2 codes over the years and the board was actually the culprit maybe twice. Start with the cheap stuff first, you'll be right most of the time.

Models Known to Experience EDL2 Errors

This repair applies to most Fisherpaykel washers with this error code. Common model numbers include:

WA37T26GW1, WA65T65GW1, WA80T65GW1, WL70T65FW1, WH8060P1, WH7560P1, WH6560P1, WA80F65FW1

Written by

Mike Sullivan

Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 20 years experience

Last verified for technical accuracy on March 17, 2026