The i20 code is a drainage warning that usually points to a clogged filter or a blocked drain hose. In most service calls, I find that cleaning the glass trap and checking the sink connection fixes the problem without needing new parts.
i20 basically means water's sitting in the tub when the machine thinks it shouldn't be. Ignore it and you're looking at mold building up in the sump, door gasket damage from constant moisture, and eventually a fried pump motor from running dry against standing water. Nine times out of ten when I show up it's a clogged filter that takes five minutes to clean. Don't panic yet.
OK so the deal with i20 is that the pressure sensor's still reading water in the bottom after the drain cycle finishes. That usually means something's physically blocking the path out. Could be the filter, could be the hose, could be a brand new disposal with the knockout plug still in it. I always start at the filter because honestly that's the fix about 60% of the time, and you don't even need tools.
Most Likely Causes
Based on aggregated repair data, here is the probability breakdown for this error code:
Debris in filters or hose65%
Drain pump mechanical failure20%
Pressure sensor obstruction15%
Symptoms You May Notice
Standing water in the bottom of the tub, sometimes a full inch or two deep, just sitting there cold after the cycle ends
Machine stops mid-cycle and beeps, display flashing i20
You can hear the drain pump running but it sounds strained, a loud continuous hum with no gurgling or water movement
Dishes come out wet and still dirty because the cycle got cut short before the final rinse
The machine keeps restarting the drain attempt over and over without clearing the code
Can you reset a Frigidaire dishwasher to clear the i20 code?
Press and hold the Cancel button for about 3 seconds until the indicator lights cycle and the pump kicks on for a final drain attempt. Wait the full 90 seconds for it to finish. If the code comes right back, go to the breaker and leave it off for a full 5 minutes. Don't just flip it off and back on fast. Five full minutes lets the control board completely discharge and wipe its stored error states.
Tools Required for Diagnosis
Phillips #2 screwdriverFlathead screwdriverNeedle-nose pliersShop vacuum with narrow hose attachmentDigital multimeterTurkey basterOld toothbrushWork glovesBucket and old towels
Diagnostic Checklist
Follow these steps in order. We start with the easiest external fixes before opening up the machine.
ComponentComponent Under Test
Expected Range200–300 ohms
ConditionIf Open (OL) or infinite, replace component.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my dishwasher show i20 when there's no water in it?
Almost always it's the pressure sensor port. The sensor basically works like a pressure switch reading the water level in the sump, and when that little tube gets packed with grease and food residue it stays stuck in the 'water present' position even after the tub drains completely. Grab a turkey baster with hot soapy water and flush that port out a few times. That clears the ghost code most of the time. If it doesn't, the sensor itself might need swapping out, but that's usually a $20 part and about a 20 minute job.
Can I reset the i20 error without taking anything apart?
You can try, but here's the honest answer: if there's a real blockage somewhere, the code's coming back the next time it tries to drain. The reset just clears the board's memory. Hold Cancel for 3 seconds, let it run the drain cycle, and watch what happens. If it drains clean and doesn't throw the code again on the next full wash, you might have gotten lucky and a partial clog cleared itself. But if it comes back within a cycle or two, something's physically in the way and you need to dig in.
Is the i20 error code expensive to fix?
Usually not at all. Cleaning the filter costs you nothing. Clearing a kinked hose or a plugged air gap costs nothing. If the drain pump is actually dead you're looking at around $40 to $80 for the part depending on your model, and it's a pretty straightforward swap once the machine is pulled out. The only time i20 gets pricey is if the control board is sending bad signals to the pump, but that's pretty rare with this specific code. Honestly it's one of the cheaper error codes I deal with.
How do I know if my drain pump is actually broken?
A few clues. Loud humming during the drain cycle but water won't move means it's either jammed or the motor's shot. Totally silent when it should be draining means it's not getting power or the windings are dead. Grab a multimeter, disconnect the pump's wiring harness, and check resistance across the two terminals. A healthy Frigidaire drain pump reads 200 to 300 ohms. Way outside that range, or a dead open circuit reading, means the motor windings are gone and you need a new pump.
How long does it actually take to fix this?
Depends completely on what's wrong. Cleaning the filter? Five minutes, maybe less once you've done it once. Clearing a gunked air gap, ten minutes. Pulling the dishwasher out to check the hose or access the pump, figure 30 to 45 minutes if you haven't done it before. Replacing the drain pump once you've got the machine out is another 20 or 30 minutes on top of that. I've fixed i20 calls in under ten minutes and I've also been there two hours when the pump was buried in a really tight custom cabinet install with no wiggle room.
Models Known to Experience i20 Errors
This repair applies to most Frigidaire dishwashers with this error code. Common model numbers include: