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ErrBase

Frigidaire Error Codes

Find troubleshooting guides for all Frigidaire error codes.

132 error codes across 7 appliance types

Dehumidifier

View all 3 codes →
CodeMeaning
F1The F1 error code on a Frigidaire dehumidifier indicates a malfunction with the humidity sensor or its connection to the main control board. This failure prevents the unit from reading ambient moisture levels, causing the system to shut down for safety.
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F2The control board is trying to read the humidity sensor and getting either no signal or a completely out-of-range reading back. The circuit looks open or shorted to the board, so it throws F2 and locks out the compressor until something valid comes through.
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H1H1 means the control board is getting a dead or impossible signal from the humidity sensor, called a hygrostat. Either the sensor's internal circuit is fried, the connection's broken somewhere, or the board's input for that sensor has gone bad. Board sees the fault, kills the compressor to protect itself, throws the code.
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Dishwasher

View all 18 codes →
CodeMeaning
BLUE-LIGHT-FLASHINGThe blue floor light is the status indicator on Frigidaire's newer dishwasher lineup. Solid means it's running. Flashing means something broke the safety circuit loop, usually the door latch microswitch failing to tell the control board the door is sealed, so the motor and pump won't fire.
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CLCL on a Frigidaire dishwasher means the Control Lock feature is active. It's not a fault code at all. It's a child safety lock that disables every button on the control panel except the lock button itself. Your dishwasher won't respond to anything until you deactivate it.
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E20The control board detected a broken or failed circuit on the drain pump motor. Either the motor windings have failed internally, there's an open somewhere in the wiring, or the board simply can't complete the pump circuit at all.
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E30The control board sent voltage to the dispenser solenoid at the right moment in the wash cycle, but something stopped it from completing. Either the circuit broke electrically or the door physically couldn't open. The board got no confirmation that the dispenser fired, so it threw E30.
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ERThe control board has detected a stuck button or a short circuit in the touchpad membrane. This prevents the dishwasher from starting because it's receiving a constant, conflicting signal from the user interface.
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ER/UOThe door lock mechanism failed to engage or disengage properly. The control board sent a lock or unlock command and didn't get confirmation back from the latch assembly, so it threw the fault code and stopped the cycle.
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F3The high-limit thermostat under the tub hit its trip point, somewhere around 190-200°F, and permanently opened the heater circuit. The control board sees that open circuit and throws F3. Once it trips, it's done. There's no resetting it.
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HUBHub page covering all Frigidaire dishwasher error codes on the Electrolux platform, including the I-series codes unique to Frigidaire
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I20The drain cycle ran but the water level in the tub did not drop to the expected level within the allowed time
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I30The base pan overflow float has been raised, indicating water in the drip tray beneath the tub
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I40The control board opened the inlet valve solenoid but the water level sensor never confirmed the tub filled within the time limit, so it killed the cycle and threw the fault code.
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NOT-WASHING-WELLThe dishwasher completes its cycle, but dishes remain dirty, covered in a gritty film, or spotted because of poor water circulation, lack of heat, or clogged filtration.
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PFPower to the dishwasher was interrupted mid-cycle. PF is informational - it records that a power loss occurred, not that a component has failed.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming voltage dropped out or dipped below operating threshold while a cycle was running, so it stopped the cycle rather than risk running the motor or heater without stable power.
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i10The i10 fires when the dishwasher's fill sensor doesn't detect the required water level within the allowed time window, usually around 5 minutes. The board's watching a timer, and if the float switch doesn't trip before it runs out, it shuts everything down and throws the code.
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i20The i20 error code indicates that the dishwasher has failed to drain the water within the allotted time or the pressure sensor still detects water in the tub.
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i30Water got into the base pan and tripped the float switch. The machine basically said it's leaking and locked itself into drain mode to protect your floor. It's not a software glitch. It's a physical safety response to actual moisture.
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iLoThe dishwasher's fill timer ran out before water reached the minimum operating level. The pressure sensor or float switch reported low water, so the board killed the cycle to protect the wash pump from running dry and burning out.
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Dryer

View all 4 codes →
CodeMeaning
E61The control board's heater relay is stuck in the closed position, meaning it's feeding constant power to the heating element even when the board's telling it to stop. It's a hardware failure inside the board itself, not a sensor problem.
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E63The control board detected current leaking to ground through the heater circuit. Either the heating coil physically touched the metal housing, or a relay on the board stayed stuck closed and the sensing logic caught it. Either way, current is going somewhere it definitely shouldn't.
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E64The E64 code indicates a failure in the heater string circuit, specifically suggesting that the heating element is either open (broken) or has shorted to the metal housing (grounded).
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HUBHub page covering the most common Frigidaire dryer problems and their fixes
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Microwave

View all 1 codes →
CodeMeaning
F3The control board detected a button that's been held down continuously too long, or a circuit in the keypad that's stuck closed. Basically the board thinks someone's pressing a key when nobody is, so it shuts everything down.
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Oven

View all 42 codes →
CodeMeaning
BEEPINGThe electronic control board detected something outside normal limits. Could be a runaway temperature reading, an open circuit in the sensor probe, or a stuck button sending a constant signal. Basically the oven's brain saw a number it didn't like and started screaming at you to pay attention.
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BEEPINGThe oven's electronic control board has identified a fault condition, most commonly a stuck input key or a temperature reading that exceeds safety limits, and is sounding an audible alert to prevent damage or fire.
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BEEPING-CONSTANTLYThe oven's Electronic Range Control (ERC) is detecting something it doesn't like, whether that's a stuck button, a temperature sensor sending a bad signal, or a safety limit being hit. It triggers an audible alert to stop you from running an oven that might be heating completely uncontrolled.
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Beeping (No Error Code)The control board's picking up a signal it reads as a command or a minor fault, but whatever's triggering it isn't bad enough to throw one of the named F-series codes. Usually that means a stuck button's sending a ghost input, the probe jack's got a short from gunk buildup, or a power hiccup left some junk in the board's memory.
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CONTROL-BOARDThe control board is basically a small computer that handles everything: it fires the heating elements, reads the temperature sensor, manages the clock and timer, and sends all that info to your display. When it fails, none of those systems talk to each other anymore.
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CONTROL-BOARDThe Electronic Oven Control (EOC) is the main circuit board that runs the whole show. It reads the temperature sensor, drives the display, interprets every button press, and flips the relays that send 240 volts to your bake and broil elements. When it dies, nothing works right.
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CONTROL-BOARDThe Electronic Oven Control (EOC) is basically the brain of your range. It takes your keypad input, figures out what to do with it, and fires signals to the gas valve, igniter, and temperature sensor. When it fails, none of that communication happens and your oven just sits there.
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CONTROL-BOARDThe main electronic control board, often called the ERC, acts as the brain of your gas range by regulating oven temperatures and controlling the gas ignition sequence.
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CONTROL-PANEL-FAILThe Electronic Oven Control (EOC) or the touch membrane has lost communication with the board, either from a hardware short, heat damage, a blown fuse, or a corroded ribbon connection. The panel can't send or receive signals, so it just sits there dead.
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CONTROL-PANEL-FAILUREThe Electronic Oven Control (EOC) or the user interface membrane has suffered a hardware failure, preventing the appliance from processing user inputs or managing heating cycles.
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ERThe ER code (sometimes shown as ERR) means the control board and the touchpad stopped communicating. Either something's stuck on the keypad sending a constant signal, or the connection between the two boards got interrupted, usually from a bad ribbon cable.
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ER CEER CE means there's a Communication Error between the Electronic Oven Control (EOC), the main brain board, and the User Interface board that runs your touchpad. They've lost their digital handshake. Neither can confirm the other's there, so the whole system shuts down as a precaution.
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F010F010 means the oven's electronic control board detected an internal communication fault, either with the keypad overlay, its own memory, or the logic circuits that manage relay operation. The board can't confirm a safe operating state so it locks everything down.
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F050The Electronic Oven Control lost its communication link with the Power Relay Board. Those two boards talk over a low-voltage data line, usually 5V or 12V DC. When that signal drops or gets corrupted, the EOC throws F050 and shuts everything down rather than run blind.
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F1F1 on a Frigidaire oven means the main Electronic Range Control (ERC) board has detected an internal failure. This is the board's self-diagnostic reporting that its own processing, memory, or component circuits have failed. Unlike F10 or F27 which point to specific relay failures, F1 is a general control board fault that typically requires full board replacement.
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F10The control board detected a runaway temperature condition, meaning it thinks the oven's heating past 650°F and not stopping. It triggers a safety lockout. Usually the board isn't wrong that something's off, it just can't tell if the oven's actually overheating or if the sensor's lying to it.
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F11F11 on a Frigidaire oven means the control board has detected a shorted or stuck key on the touchpad. The oven registers a key as continuously pressed, which is a safety lockout condition. On FGEF3059TF, FGEF3062TF, and FPEF3077QF models this is overwhelmingly caused by the flex cable between the touchpad membrane and the control board delaminaing from heat cycling.
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F11The F11 code fires when the Electronic Oven Control board detects a continuous closed signal from any key on the touchpad for more than 30 seconds. Basically it thinks someone's holding a button down, so it kills the heat, locks everything out, and starts alarming. Safety feature, technically, but real annoying when it's phantom-triggering at 2am.
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F11The F11 code fires when the Electronic Oven Control detects a continuous key signal for more than 30 seconds. The board basically thinks you're holding a button down. It's a stuck-key fault, and the culprit is either a shorted touch membrane or a bad keypad input circuit inside the EOC itself.
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F11The F11 error code on a Frigidaire oven signifies a shorted keypad or a stuck button. It occurs when the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) detects that a key has been pressed or shorted for more than thirty seconds continuously.
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F11F11 means the Electronic Oven Control detected a touchpad key signal that's been continuously active for over 30 seconds. Basically the board thinks you've been pressing a button this whole time. It triggers a lockout to prevent the oven from doing something weird on its own.
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F12F12 means the main control board (the ERC, or Electronic Range Control) lost its connection to a secondary board or module. It's a data bus timeout, basically the two internal computers stopped passing signals to each other and the main board gave up waiting for a response.
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F15The oven's main control board sent a signal down the internal data bus and didn't get a response back from a secondary module. Think of it like one board texting another and getting no reply. The system throws F15 because it can't confirm the secondary controller is alive and listening.
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F16F16 on a Frigidaire oven means the meat probe circuit is reading a short. The probe or its connector's showing near-zero resistance when it should either read open or return a valid food temperature. The oven disables probe-based cooking functions and it'll throw F16 even with nothing plugged in if that jack's got any debris in it.
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F22F22 on a Frigidaire oven means the door lock system has failed to complete a lock or unlock cycle. The control board expected the door latch position switch to confirm that the door had locked or unlocked, but the confirmation signal was never received within the timeout window. The oven door may be stuck in the locked position.
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F27F27 on a Frigidaire oven means the control board has detected that the bake relay is stuck in the closed position - the relay continues to supply power to the bake element even after the control board has commanded it to open. This is a safety-critical fault because the oven can overheat if the relay does not open.
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F3F3 on a Frigidaire oven means the RTD temperature probe circuit is open. The control board isn't getting any resistance signal from the probe, which it reads as either a broken sensor or an extreme temperature reading. It won't heat until the probe circuit is repaired or replaced.
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F30The F30 code fires when the control board measures infinite resistance on the sensor circuit. A working RTD probe reads around 1080-1100 ohms at room temp. When that reading goes open, the board knows something's broken and shuts the oven down rather than guess at the temperature.
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F30F30 means the lower oven's RTD temperature probe circuit is completely open. The control board's reading infinite resistance where it should see around 1,080 to 1,100 ohms. Something in that lower probe circuit is broken, whether it's the sensor wire itself, the connector pin, or the harness routing near the lower hinge.
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F31F31 on a Frigidaire oven means the lower oven RTD temperature probe has a fault condition - the resistance reading is out of range (either too high, indicating near-open, or the circuit has a shorted reading). F31 applies specifically to double oven models like the FGEW276SPF that have separate upper and lower oven cavities with independent temperature sensors. The lower oven element and bake functions will be disabled.
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F50F50 means the door latch didn't complete its lock or unlock cycle in time. It's pretty much always tied to the self-clean function, which needs the door locked before those extreme temps kick in. The motor, the latch arm, or the position switch is where things went wrong.
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F90F90 on a Frigidaire oven means the door latch motor failed electrically or mechanically. The control board sent the signal to lock the door and got no confirmation the latch actually reached its locked position. It's more specific than F50 because it points directly at the motor, not just a general latch timeout.
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FO50The FO50 error indicates a communication loss between the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) and the User Interface Board (UIB). Essentially, the main brain and the touch panel are no longer talking to each other.
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HOW-TO-RESETA reset restores the electronic control board to its factory state, clearing temporary software glitches or minor communication errors between components.
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HUBFrigidaire ovens use F and E prefix fault codes to flag failures in the control board, RTD temperature probe, door latch, keypad, and relay systems. The code prefix tells you which part of the system broke down. F10 and F11 are the two you really don't want to see on that display.
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NOT-HEATINGThe oven is failing to activate its primary heating components. This is typically due to a broken electrical circuit in the heating element, a failed gas igniter, or a safety fuse that has tripped to prevent overheating.
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NOT-PREHEATINGThe oven's failing to reach target temperature because something in the heating circuit has broken down, whether that's the element itself, the sensor that reads the temperature, or the control board that tells everything to fire up.
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NOT-TURNING-ONThe oven is not receiving power, the control board has failed, or a safety thermal fuse has tripped, preventing the unit from operating.
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NOT-WORKINGThe appliance has lost its heating circuit, meaning either the electrical path to a heating element is broken, a safety component has opened up to cut power, or the control board has stopped sending voltage to the heating components entirely.
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NOT-WORKINGThe oven is failing to initiate a heating cycle, which typically indicates a break in the electrical path to the heating element or a failure in the ignition system for gas models.
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OVEN-CONTROL-BOARDThe Electronic Oven Control (EOC) is the primary circuit board that manages the timer, display, and power distribution to the heating elements based on signals from the temperature sensor.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGWhen a Frigidaire oven fails, it's usually the igniter, a heating element, or the temperature sensor misfiring and sending bad data to the board. This guide walks you through diagnosing each one in order from cheapest fix to most expensive, so you're not just throwing parts at it randomly.
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Refrigerator

View all 52 codes →
CodeMeaning
BEEPINGYour fridge is basically saying something crossed a line. Either the temp climbed above 55°F, the door sensor stopped registering a closed door, or the control board caught a power interruption. It's the board's way of flagging a problem before your food goes bad.
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BEEPING-3-TIMESThe 3-beep sequence is the fridge's notification alarm telling you one of three things: the door's been hanging open too long, the internal temp climbed above the safe threshold, or a power failure happened and it needs acknowledgment. The board won't quit until you tell it you got the message.
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BEEPING-AFTER-POWER-OUTAGEThe refrigerator's control board logged a power interruption or high-temperature event. The beeping's an audible alert waiting for you to acknowledge it, basically the fridge's way of making sure you know the power went out and you've thought about whether your food's still safe.
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BLINKING-GREENThe green light blinks when the internal temp climbs above 21°F. The control board's monitoring temperature constantly, and when it can't keep things cold enough, it trips this alert so you know something's wrong before your food turns. Could be airflow, could be the cooling system itself.
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CECE means the main control board and the user interface board in the door can't communicate. They're supposed to talk back and forth constantly to sync settings and display status. When that data line drops, the CE code fires and the display either goes haywire or locks up entirely.
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COOLING-ISSUEThe fridge isn't maintaining safe food temps because cold air can't circulate from the freezer side to the fresh food section. That happens when frost chokes off the evaporator coils, the fan dies, airflow gets physically blocked, or in worse cases the sealed refrigerant system itself is leaking or failing.
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EPTWFU01The EPTWFU01 (PureSource Ultra II) water filter is the primary filtration component for the GRSS2652AF, responsible for removing lead, pesticides, and chlorine from your drinking water and ice.
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EPTWFU01The EPTWFU01, which Frigidaire also calls the PureSource Ultra II, is a carbon block cartridge that sits in the top right corner of your fresh food compartment. It scrubs out lead, chlorine, cysts, and pesticides from your tap water before it hits your glass or ice molds.
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F3F3 means a temperature sensor has failed or is sending readings so far off that the control board won't trust them. The sensor's either open circuit, shorted, or reading something obviously wrong like 150 degrees inside a cold fridge.
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FILTER-REPLACEThe water filter is either reaching the end of its life, improperly installed, or the housing has a mechanical failure preventing proper flow to the dispenser and ice maker. Basically, water can't push through fast enough to fill a glass or make full ice cubes.
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FPPWFU01The FPPWFU01 is the push-in PurePour Connect filter that sits in the upper right corner of your fresh food compartment. It uses activated carbon to pull chlorine, sediment, and trace contaminants out of your water. The 'Connect' part means there's an RFID chip inside that talks to your fridge's control board to track filter age automatically.
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FRIG-COOL-GUIDEThe fridge isn't maintaining temp in one or both compartments. Something in the refrigeration loop, the fans, the defrost system, or the sensors is broken and the cooling cycle either can't run or can't move cold air where it needs to go.
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FRSS26L3AF0-WATER-FILTERThe water filter is a replaceable carbon cartridge that physically traps contaminants, sediment, lead, and chlorine from your incoming water supply before it hits your glass or ice maker. When it's clogged, water pressure drops and nothing downstream works right.
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H1H1 on a Frigidaire refrigerator means the internal temperature has risen above the safe threshold. This is a temperature alarm, not necessarily a component fault. H1 is the most common Frigidaire fridge code.
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H1The H1 code is a high temperature alert indicating the freezer has risen above 26 degrees Fahrenheit or the fresh food section has exceeded 55 degrees Fahrenheit for an extended period.
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HIThe freezer temperature climbed above 26 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the threshold Frigidaire set for the high-temp alarm. The board's not broken and the sensor isn't necessarily bad. It's just saying: hey, something let warm air in or stopped the cold air from moving around the way it should.
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HIThe fridge's control board monitors cabinet air temp constantly and fires this alert the moment it climbs above the safe threshold, usually above 55°F in the fresh food section or above 26°F in the freezer. Something caused the inside to get warm, and now the board's telling you about it.
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HIThe HI error fires when the thermistor detects the temperature climbed above 55°F long enough that the board decided to flag it. Either the fresh food section, the freezer, or both got too warm. The unit isn't broken yet, but it's telling you something's off with the cooling cycle.
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HOHO stands for High Temp. The control board is seeing that your freezer climbed above 26°F and stayed there long enough to trigger the warning. It's the fridge saying 'hey, something's wrong in here' before your ice cream turns into soup and your meat starts going bad.
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HOW-TO-RESETA system reset reboots the refrigerator's electronic control board to clear temporary software glitches, frozen displays, or persistent error codes after a power event.
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HUBThese are Frigidaire's built-in diagnostic alerts. H1 fires when the cabinet temp climbs above the safe threshold. F3 means a thermistor or sensor has gone open or shorted. CE is a communication error between the control board and another component, usually the evaporator fan motor or the compressor inverter board.
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MINI-COOL-FAILA cooling failure in a Frigidaire compact refrigerator usually means the compressor can't start due to a failed relay, the thermostat's not sending signal, or the condenser coils are so clogged the compressor keeps shutting itself off from overheating.
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OFF-MODEOff mode is a manual setting on Frigidaire refrigerators that shuts down the cooling system including the compressor and fans while maintaining power to the interior lights and control display.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. It means the control board lost its 120V supply and then got it back. The fridge is basically saying 'hey, something happened while you weren't looking.' It's not broken, it just wants you to acknowledge the event before it goes back to showing temperatures.
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PFPF means Power Failure. Plain and simple. The control board lost voltage, came back online, and it's now waving a flag so you know the cooling cycle got interrupted. It won't go away by itself because Frigidaire designed it to stay until you physically clear it.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. The control board monitors the incoming 120V supply constantly, and the second it drops out or gets interrupted, even for just a half second, it logs it and throws this code on the display so you know it happened.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming power got cut or dropped below the threshold it needs to stay running. Could've been a split second, could've been 8 hours. The board doesn't know how long, it just knows it happened.
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PFPF stands for Power Failure. The control board detected that incoming voltage dropped to zero and came back. It's not a malfunction code, it's basically the fridge saying 'hey, power went out, just so you know.' Nothing inside broke to trigger this.
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PF-POYour Frigidaire's control board saw the 120V power get cut and then come back. It stores that event and throws up PF or PO so you know to check food temps. The fridge didn't break, it just logged an interruption. PF is Power Failure, PO is Power Outage. Same deal, different model generation.
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POWER-OUTAGEThe refrigerator has detected a loss of incoming voltage. It may be in a safety lockout mode (PF code), or a component like the start relay or control board may have been damaged by a voltage spike when the power returned.
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PROBLEMSBasically this covers the most common ways Frigidaire refrigerators break down. Cooling problems, ice maker failures, weird noises, water leaks. These things fail in pretty predictable patterns, and once you know what to look for, you can usually nail the cause before you even pull a panel.
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PUREPOUR-PW-1The PurePour PW-1 (part number FPPWFU01) is a push-lock carbon block filter sitting in the upper right corner of your fridge compartment. It cleans water going to both the door dispenser and the ice maker. When the carbon inside gets saturated, it can't trap chlorine, lead, or sediment anymore and the flow slows to a trickle.
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PUREPOUR-PWF-1The PurePour PWF-1 (FPPWFU01) is the specific filtration cartridge designed for your Frigidaire side-by-side refrigerator to remove sediment, chemicals, and heavy metals.
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PW1-FILTERThe PurePour PW1 water filter is a specialized filtration component used in modern Frigidaire refrigerators to remove contaminants and ensure clear ice and water production.
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PWF-1The PWF-1 (PurePour) water filter is the primary filtration component for your Frigidaire refrigerator, responsible for removing contaminants from both the dispenser water and the ice maker supply.
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PWF-1The PWF-1 is the push-in carbon block filter for the FRSS2323AS. It pulls chlorine, lead, cysts, and sediment out of your water supply before it hits the dispenser or your ice maker. When it's exhausted, those contaminants just pass right through.
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RESET-NEEDEDThe control board has hit a state it can't get itself out of, whether that's a software loop, a stuck alarm, or a filter timer needing manual acknowledgment. The fridge isn't broken. It just needs you to clear the buffer and let it start fresh.
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SHThe SH code fires when the control board reads near-zero resistance from a thermistor circuit. A healthy sensor at room temp reads 5,000-10,000 ohms. When the board sees something close to 0, it knows the sensor's shorted internally or the wires are touching somewhere they shouldn't be.
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SLOW-WATER-FLOWYour filter's carbon block is so clogged it's basically a cork in your supply line, starving both the dispenser and ice maker of pressure. Could be a saturated filter, could be a cracked housing that's not seating the filter pins correctly.
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SY CEThe SY CE error code stands for System Communication Error. It indicates that the main electronic control board and the user interface display panel are unable to communicate with each other over the data lines.
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SY EFSY EF stands for System Evaporator Fan fault. The main control board sends 12V DC to the freezer fan motor and waits for an RPM feedback signal on the yellow wire. If it doesn't get that signal back within a set timeframe, it throws this code and shuts down.
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SY EFThe evaporator fan motor sits in your freezer behind the back panel. It's supposed to spin and send a speed signal back to the main board continuously. When the board doesn't get that signal, or gets something unexpected, it throws SY EF. A dead motor, frozen blade, or broken wire in the harness will all trigger it.
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SY EFThe SY EF error code indicates a System Evaporator Fan failure where the main control board detects that the fan motor in the freezer is not spinning at the correct speed or the communication signal is lost.
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SY EFThe main control board sends power to the evaporator fan motor in the freezer and waits for a tachometer pulse back confirming it's spinning at the right RPM. No signal, or a bad signal, and the board logs SY EF and kills the fan circuit. That fan's job is moving cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, so when it stops, the whole fridge warms up fast.
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TROUBLESHOOTINGGeneral ice maker failure or lack of ice production in a Frigidaire side-by-side refrigerator.
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WATER-FILTERThe water filter is a carbon-based purification cartridge designed to remove lead, pesticides, and pharmaceuticals from your water supply while protecting the ice maker from sediment buildup.
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WATER-FILTERThe WFCB PureSource Plus filter is the main filtration system for both the water dispenser and the ice maker on your FRSC2333AS. It's a carbon block filter, meaning it traps sediment, chlorine, and other contaminants as water passes through. When it's saturated, flow drops and filtration basically stops working.
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WATER-FILTERThe water filter is a replaceable carbon-media canister that strips out chlorine, lead, sediment, and other contaminants before water reaches the dispenser and ice maker. When the carbon gets saturated, it stops working and can actually start releasing what it already captured back into your glass.
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WATER-FILTERThe water filter (PureSource Ultra ULTRAWF) is a replaceable mechanical and chemical barrier that removes sediment, chlorine, and lead from your home water supply before it reaches the dispenser or ice maker.
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WATER-FILTER-ISSUESThe water filtration system is experiencing a restriction or the internal timer has signaled that the filter's carbon media is no longer effective at removing contaminants.
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dIdI stands for Defrost Issue. The control board tracks evaporator temperature during each defrost cycle, and when the heater runs its full allotted time without the bi-metal thermostat tripping off at around 55°F, the board logs the fault and surfaces the dI code on the display.
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dOdO stands for Door Open. The control board monitors a switch or magnetic sensor that tells it the door's shut. When that signal drops out for more than a few minutes, the board throws the dO code and starts cutting cooling to stop wasting energy. Simple concept, usually a simple fix.
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Washer

View all 12 codes →
CodeMeaning
E11The control board has detected that the water level is not rising fast enough. Specifically, the pressure switch failed to signal that the tub reached the minimum water level within the programmed 8 to 10 minute window.
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E11E11 fires when the tub doesn't reach the required water level within the control board's fill timeout window. The pressure switch is supposed to signal 'enough water' to the board, but if flow is restricted or the valve's weak, that signal never comes and the cycle aborts.
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E11, E21, E41The control board caught a functional failure, like a fill timeout, a drain that's not keeping up, or a door latch that's not confirming it's secure. Each code tells you exactly which system is throwing the flag so you're not just guessing.
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E13E13 fires when the control board sees the water level dropping unexpectedly during a cycle, or when the pressure sensor can't give a stable reading. The board's watching a small air column in a tube connected to the tub. If that column changes when it shouldn't, it assumes there's a leak.
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E41E41 means the control board sent a command to lock the door but never got a confirmation signal back that it actually latched. The door safety switch circuit is reading open when it should be closed, so the machine won't run. It's a safety feature to prevent the door from flying open at full spin speeds.
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E41The control board sent voltage to engage the door lock but never received the confirmation signal back. So it assumes the door is open, kills the cycle, and throws E41. Could be mechanical, electrical, or the lock assembly itself is just shot.
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HUBReference guide for all Frigidaire washer error codes including E11 (water fill timeout), E21 (drain timeout), E41/E42 (door lock fault), E5E (motor fault), and EF1 (clogged drain pump filter).
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LEAKINGWater's escaping the wash system somewhere it shouldn't be. Could be a failed rubber seal, a cracked plastic component, a loose hose clamp, or the internal safety tray catching a slow drip from above. The machine's got water going in, spinning around, and draining out through a bunch of connections, and any one of them can fail over time.
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NOT-DRAININGThe washer's control board monitors water level during the drain phase. When it can't detect water dropping fast enough, it kills the cycle and flags the drain fault. Could be a physical blockage, a dead pump motor winding, a tripped AquaStop float, or a relay issue on the control board sending no power to the pump.
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NOT-SPINNINGThe drum isn't reaching spin speed even though the control board is commanding it to. Either something mechanical is stopping it, like a broken belt or failed coupler, or an electrical signal is missing from the door latch or lid switch and the board won't even attempt the spin cycle. So the drum just sits there.
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NOT-STARTINGThe machine's processor got stuck or tripped a safety flag and can't continue on its own. It needs you to manually clear its memory so it can restart fresh and run through its normal startup checks again.
moderate
UNRESPONSIVE-CONTROLThe control panel is stuck in a non-responsive state where button inputs aren't registering. The board's basically frozen, either from a software glitch, a power hiccup, or it's waiting on a signal it can't get, like a door latch confirmation that never came through.
moderate